Sardinia’s capital sprawls across seven limestone hills, each telling its own tale of conquest and culture. Cagliari, often dismissed as merely a gateway to the island’s famed beaches, reveals itself as an intoxicating blend of influences: Phoenician ruins neighbour Art Nouveau cafés, while Spanish baroque churches share narrow lanes with North African-inspired markets. This is a city where tradition runs deep but contemporary life flourishes naturally alongside it – from the bustling marina district’s waterfront bars to the sleek boutiques of Via Roma and the vibrant music scene that fills both medieval courtyards and modern venues.
Unlike its more tourist-worn Italian counterparts, Cagliari maintains an authenticity that’s increasingly rare in Mediterranean capitals. Here, elderly signoras still hang washing between medieval towers, while students crowd into hole-in-the-wall bars serving up local Ichnusa beer alongside some particularly noodly jazz. The city’s relationship with time feels delightfully fluid – ancient nuraghi watch over modernist museums, and Renaissance palazzi house cutting-edge galleries.
While you could spend weeks exploring every hidden vicolo and sampling each neighbourhood osteria, 48 hours gives you enough time to scratch beneath the surface of this fascinating city. The key is knowing where to look and, more importantly, when to go – timing is everything in this city.
Day 1: Ancient Streets & Local Flavours
Morning: Castello Awakening
Begin your concise, considered weekend in Cagliari in the ancient Castello quarter, but time it right – arrive before 9am to watch the city wake up from Caffè Librarium Nostrum, a literary café tucked into the medieval walls along Via Santa Croce. Their cornetti filled with ricotta and honey pair perfectly with a cappuccino, and the terrace offers unobstructed views across the Gulf of Angels. The café’s collection of vintage photographs provides fascinating glimpses into Cagliari’s past.
A five-minute walk brings you to the Torre dell’Elefante, one of two remaining Pisan towers. Time your visit for opening at 10am to beat both crowds and heat. The tower’s 131 steps are worth climbing not just for the panoramic views but also for the insights into medieval military architecture. Look for the small elephant sculpture that gives the tower its name – local legend says it brings luck to students who touch it before exams.
Midday: Markets & Local Life
The walk down from Castello to the Marina quarter takes about 15 minutes via picturesque stepped alleyways. Aim to reach the San Benedetto Market by 11am – late enough for all stalls to be open but before the local lunch crowd arrives. This two-storey temple to Sardinian gastronomy isn’t just one of Europe’s largest covered markets; it’s a fascinating insight into island culture. The ground floor’s seafood section dazzles with displays of red prawns from the Gulf, fresh octopus, and, if you’re lucky, ricci (sea urchins) in season from November to April.
For lunch, skip the obvious tourist spots and stroll twenty minutes south to Sa Piola, a gem in the heart of the Stampace quarter near the Santa Chiara steps – which, locals will tell you, mark where St Francis of Assisi once walked in Sardinia.
Since 2008, Giuseppe Vinci has been crafting faithfully-rendered Sardinian cuisine here with remarkable passion. The restaurant’s name comes from the nearby steps, and it maintains the spirit of the traditional piola – once a gathering place where friends would meet for good food and wine. Their fregola con arselle (tiny pasta balls with clams) is a masterclass in briny, satisfying simplicity, while the cassola (fish soup) represents the best of Cagliari’s maritime heritage.
Read: The best restaurants in Rome
Afternoon: Cultural Immersion
A gentle 10-minute stroll brings you to the Museo Archeologico Nazionale, strategically timed for when most tourists are at lunch or the beach. The museum’s collection of bronze figurines from the Nuragic period is unmatched, but the real treasures are the Phoenician jewellery pieces and the Monte Prama Giants – mysterious warrior statues that predate Rome.
By late afternoon, when the sun softens, walk five minutes to Caffè Svizzero on Via Roma. This Art Nouveau gem has been serving sebadas since 1925. Watch the traditionally-clad staff prepare this crispy pastry filled with young pecorino and drizzled with bitter corbezzolo honey – a gorgeous little snack that perfectly encapsulates Sardinian cuisine’s love affair with the balance of sweet and savoury.
Evening: Sunset & Supper
Time your ascent to Bastione di Saint Remy for about an hour before sunset. The limestone viewing terrace, reached via a grand staircase that would look at home in a Visconti film, offers the city’s most dramatic views. Local musicians often perform here as the sun dips behind Capo Sant’Elia, casting the Gulf in shades of amber and rose.
For your first evening’s dinner, descend from the Bastione into Cagliari’s old town to Da Marino al St Remy, just a stone’s throw away on Via San Salvatore da Horta. The charismatic owner Marino is likely to greet you himself – ask him about the history of the restaurant and the surrounding streets, as he loves sharing stories about the area’s transformation. In the kitchen, his wife Silvana crafts Mediterranean dishes with distinctly Sardinian touches. The seafood dishes are the standouts here, and Marino will happily guide you through the menu to find the perfect choice. The restaurant’s position on the edge of the pedestrianised zone makes it an ideal spot to unwind after your time at the Bastione.
End your evening in somewhat cyclical fashion, back where we started at Libarium Nostrum, just three minutes’ walk away and open until 1am. Their rooftop terrace serves craft cocktails incorporating local ingredients like mirto (myrtle liqueur) and Sardinian herbs. Try their Castello Sunset, a blend of local gin, Campari, and orange blossom water.
Day 2: Coastal Pleasures & Hidden Treasures
Morning: Beach Bound
Start your day at Antico Caffè by day, opening at 7am in the Marina district. This historic café has been a Cagliari institution since 1855 and serves excellent coffee alongside traditional Sardinian breakfast pastries. Whether you opt for a simple cornetto or one of the local specialties like pardulas (sweet ricotta-filled pastries), it’s a wonderfully traditional way to begin your morning. Grab a coffee and pastry before catching the PF (Poetto-Flamengo) bus to Poetto Beach – a 15-minute ride that locals have dubbed ‘the most scenic commute in Italy’.
Poetto’s 8-kilometre stretch of white sand is best enjoyed early. By 9am, you’ll spot local swimmers completing their morning laps between the distinctive old bathing stations, while pink flamingos feed in the adjacent Molentargius salt pans.
While many Sardinia tours might overlook this area en route to more famous beaches, those in the know head to the less crowded southern end near the Sella del Diavolo promontory. From here, you can take in views of the dramatic limestone cliffs and turquoise waters that most visitors never discover. During summer months, the beach comes alive with stabilimenti balneari (beach clubs) offering sunbeds and umbrellas, while the nearby cafes and kiosks serve everything from fresh fruit to local beer.
Midday: Local Flavours
Take the PF bus back to the centre (they run every 15 minutes) for lunch at one of the trattorias around Piazza Yenne. This bustling square and its surrounding streets form one of Cagliari’s most popular lunch spots, where you’ll find locals enjoying unfussy but delicious Sardinian cooking.
Look for places offering the menu del giorno (daily menu) – you’ll get a taste of authentic local cooking without breaking the bank. The area is particularly good for pasta dishes like the local malloreddus alla campidanese (Sardinian gnocchi with sausage and tomato sauce) or simple but perfectly well-prepared seafood.
Afternoon: Hidden Quarters
The afternoon sees you exploring Villanova, the most straightforwardly Cagliaritan of the old quarters, just a 10-minute walk from Marina. This maze of narrow streets houses artisan workshops where you can watch craftsmen creating filigree jewellery using techniques passed down through generations. The Basilica di San Saturnino, one of the oldest churches in Sardinia, offers a cool retreat from the afternoon sun.
The nearby Orto Botanico, open until 6pm, provides another peaceful retreat. Beyond its collection of Mediterranean flora, the garden holds a secret – ancient Roman cisterns that once supplied water to the entire city. Time your visit for late afternoon when the light filters through the ancient stone arches, creating atmospheric shadows.
Evening: Farewell Feast
For your final evening in Cagliari, Luigi Pomata Restaurant offers a refined take on Sardinian cuisine. Chef Pomata’s tuna dishes are particularly celebrated – he’s known as the ‘King of Tuna’ across the island – and his creative approach to local ingredients makes this an ideal spot for a memorable farewell dinner. The restaurant’s elegant setting near the marina provides a fitting backdrop for your last night in the city.
End your night at Florio, a 5-minute walk away in a restored liberty-style palazzo. Their wine list features over 100 Sardinian labels, and the knowledgeable staff delight in introducing visitors to lesser-known local varieties.
Neighbourhood Know-How: Where To Stay In Cagliari
Choosing the right area in Cagliari can make or break your 48-hour experience. Each quarter offers a distinct flavour of city life, and your choice should align with your preferred pace and priorities.
Castello, the medieval heart of the city, offers the most atmospheric accommodation options. The Hotel Regina Margherita, despite its slightly misleading name, sits at the edge of this quarter in a perfectly renovated 19th-century palazzo. While the rooms offer modern comforts, it’s the rooftop terrace that steals the show – breakfast here, watching the morning light play across the Gulf of Angels, sets a magnificent tone for the day. Request a room on the upper floors facing the sea for the best views.
For those seeking a more contemporary vibe, the Marina district provides the perfect blend of convenience and local life. T Hotel, with its striking modern architecture and world-class spa, stands as a testament to Cagliari’s forward-looking spirit. The hotel’s bar has become a favourite among locals for aperitivo, offering visitors an authentic slice of Cagliaritan social life. The spacious deluxe rooms in the curved wing offer panoramic views over the city and sea.
Villa Fanny (teehee), situated in the quieter Stampace district, provides an elegant retreat in a restored historic mansion. The garden, filled with ancient olive trees and Mediterranean herbs, offers a tranquil escape from city exploration. Each of the twelve rooms features unique décor, but room 7, with its original frescoed ceiling and private terrace, is particularly special.
For those preferring to live like a local, the Villanova quarter offers charming B&Bs and guesthouses in traditional houses. This historic district, with its narrow streets and local atmosphere, provides an enjoyable look into daily Cagliari life. Look for the renovated town houses that have been converted into small hotels and B&Bs, many featuring traditional details like exposed limestone walls and internal courtyards that provide perfect spots for morning coffee.
Budget-conscious travellers should consider the excellent options in Stampace, where family-run guesthouses offer traditional, humble experiences at reasonable prices. Residenza Kastrum, despite its modest exterior, surprises with spacious rooms and warm hospitality. The shared roof terrace provides stunning views over the historic centre.
The Bottom Line
Forty-eight hours in Cagliari offers just enough time to scratch the surface of this fascinating city, where ancient history meets modern Sardinian life. From its medieval heights to its sun-drenched shores, Cagliari proves itself as much more than just a gateway to Sardinia’s famous beaches. This is a city that rewards those who take the time to discover its many layers, leaving visitors with a lasting impression of Sardinian hospitality and culture.
For those looking to explore more of the island, consider pairing your city break with a journey to the nuraghi of Barumini, just an hour’s drive away. The prehistoric towers offer a fascinating glimpse into Sardinia’s mysterious past and make for an excellent day trip from Cagliari.
Consider, too, Sardinia’s famous coast-to-coast walk, one of our favourite walkings in Italy. Better pack those walking boots, hey?
