At the confluence of the Water of Leith and the Firth of Forth, Edinburgh’s port district of Leith presents a compelling contrast to the medieval grandeur of the Royal Mile. Once a separate burgh with a fiercely independent spirit, this dockside neighbourhood has transformed from industrial maritime centre to one of Scotland’s most cherished culinary and cultural quarters.
While the towering Edinburgh Castle and cobbled wynds of the Old Town may dominate postcards, even the briefest foray into Leith reveals a district where industrial heritage harmonises with contemporary flair – where converted whisky warehouses house Michelin-starred restaurants and centuries of seafaring history infuse every corner with distinctive character.
With just 48 hours to discover this dynamic port district, thoughtful planning is essential. We’re here to help with that; here’s how to make the most of your weekend escape to Edinburgh’s most dynamic neighbourhood.
Day 1: Historic Docks & Culinary Discoveries
Morning: Breakfast at The Shore
Begin your Leith adventure along the Water of Leith, where historic pubs (bit early for a pint, mind) and converted warehouses line the picturesque quayside. As the morning light shimmers on the water, wander to Mimi’s Bakehouse on The Shore, a beloved local institution open from 9am.
Here you can enjoy their legendary scones with clotted cream and jam or opt for a full Scottish breakfast with tattie scones and black pudding – a hearty introduction to Scottish morning fare. Their Empire biscuits, two shortbread rounds sandwiched with raspberry jam and topped with glace icing, have earned local devotion (and soon, yours). We’re rather fond of the the ‘Beforenoon Tea’ here, think mini bacon rolls, a mini biscoff pancake stack served alongside a curated list of tea from Edinburgh’s Eteaket Tea.
While most tourists are still queuing for attractions in the city centre, take advantage of the relative tranquillity to wander along the Water of Leith Walkway. Follow the riverside path toward the 12th-century Leith Parish Church, admiring the blend of historic industrial buildings and contemporary waterfront developments. Continue to the Leith Victoria Swim Centre, a striking Edwardian bathing complex dating back to 1899, which stands as a testament to the area’s rich municipal heritage. Bring your swimming costume if you fancy a dip!
If the morning weather turns characteristically Scottish, duck into Coburg House Art Studios on Coburg Street, where over 80 artists and craftspeople work and occasionally open their studios to the public. The ground floor gallery showcases rotating exhibitions of paintings, jewellery, ceramics and textiles from local artists.
Midday: Royal Yacht Britannia
Around a ten minute walk back towards the water is the Royal Yacht Britannia, the former floating residence of Her Majesty The Queen, now permanently moored at Ocean Terminal. Having sailed over a million nautical miles on 968 state visits, this majestic vessel offers a fascinating glimpse into royal life at sea.
The self-guided audio tour takes you through five decks, from the State Apartments and Royal Bedrooms to the gleaming Engine Room. Don’t miss the Royal Deck Tea Room, where you can pause for elevenses with views across the harbour – the fruit scones are particularly excellent (provided you didn’t have your fill at Mimi’s!), and you’ll be dining in the very space where the royal family once enjoyed informal meals.
For lunch, you have two options. You coud keep things super casual at nearby Ocean Terminal; the top floor food court offers several casual dining options with harbour views. Or, you could hop on the 35 bus back to The Shore (about 10 minutes) for lunch at Fishers on The Shore, a Leith institution housed in a 17th-century watchtower. This seafood bistro offers a set lunch menu at around £25 for three courses, featuring the freshest catches from Scottish waters. Try their smoked haddock chowder or Shetland mussels steamed in white wine – straightforward dishes that let the quality of the ingredients shine. The maritime-themed interior, with its weathered wood and nautical touches, is a little kitsch, sure, but it sets the tone.
Read: The best seafood restaurants in Edinburgh
Afternoon: Hidden Corners
After lunch, explore Leith’s historic heart. Begin at the Custom House, built in 1812, which stands as a reminder of Leith’s once-thriving port status. Though currently undergoing redevelopment as a cultural hub, its neoclassical façade remains impressive from the exterior.
A short stroll away on Henderson Street awaits The Biscuit Factory, Scotland’s largest arts hub housed in a former Crawford’s biscuit manufacturing facility. The industrial-chic space hosts rotating exhibitions featuring local artists, with studios often open to visitors on weekends.
No exploration of Leith would be complete without discovering some of its famous cinematic connections. Fans of Trainspotting might recognise locations from both the novel and film adaptations, including the foot of Leith Walk. For literary enthusiasts, Leith features prominently in Irvine Welsh’s works, offering a stark counterpoint to Edinburgh’s more polished literary associations with Sir Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson.
For an afternoon refreshment, seek out Teuchters Landing on the docks. This unpretentious pub occupies a former waiting room for the Leith to Aberdeen ferry and offers an impressive selection of Scottish ales and over 90 whiskies. Their hoop of doom – a mug of macaroni cheese accompanied by chunky chips – makes for the perfect afternoon fortification.
Evening: The Shore After Dark
As evening approaches, Leith offers several dining options depending on your preference and the day of your visit. If you’re in Leith on a Friday or Saturday, The Pitt Market in nearby Bonnington is worth exploring. This street food collective brings together some of Edinburgh’s most exciting culinary entrepreneurs in a converted industrial yard. The rotating vendors might include anything from Scottish venison burgers to authentic Vietnamese banh mi, all washed down with craft beers from local microbreweries. Take the 16 bus from Leith Walk for easy access.
If The Pitt isn’t open during your visit (or you prefer a more traditional setting), book a table at The Granary on The Shore. This converted warehouse offers hearty Scottish fare with contemporary flair at more accessible prices than some of Leith’s fine-dining establishments. Their cullen skink (smoked haddock soup) makes an excellent starter, followed by classics like haggis with neeps and tatties or Borders lamb rump. Main courses hover around £20, and the portions are generous.
Cap your night with a visit to Nobles Café Bar & Restaurant on Constitution Street. This Victorian-era space with stained glass windows and nautical touches offers expertly crafted cocktails with a Scottish twist. Try their Leith Sunset featuring Edinburgh Gin, Campari, and blood orange, or for whisky enthusiasts, their flight of Highland single malts provides an education in Scotland’s national spirit. The bar’s atmospheric interior, complete with maritime memorabilia, perfectly encapsulates Leith’s blend of heritage and contemporary cool.
Day 2: Modern, Cultural Leith
Morning: Breakfast and Art
Begin your second day with breakfast at Toast on The Shore. This bright, waterfront café offers panoramic views across the docks while serving excellent morning fare. Their avocado toast topped with poached eggs and chili flakes certainly does the job. The baristas here take pride in perfectly crafted coffees using beans from Edinburgh roasters, making this a proper Scottish breakfast with contemporary flair.
For those interested in learning more about Leith’s fascinating history, the Leith Museum at Trinity House Maritime Museum on Leith’s Kirkgate offers an insightful collection of artefacts documenting the area’s seafaring past. The 16th-century building itself, once the headquarters of the maritime guild, is worth visiting for its architecture alone.
Midday: Design and Shopping
Dedicate your late morning to exploring Leith’s creative side, starting with a visit to Custom Lane on Commercial Street. This design centre and creative workshop houses makers’ studios, exhibition spaces, and a café, showcasing Scotland’s contemporary designers. The rotating exhibitions and design-led shop offer unique pieces that reflect Scotland’s innovative approach to craft and design.
For lunch, head to The Little Chartroom on Leith Walk, chef Roberta Hall-McCarron’s intimate neighbourhood bistro. The concise menu showcases Scottish produce with global influences – perhaps Shetland mussels with ‘nduja or Highland venison with seasonal roots. At around £49 for a three-course lunch, it represents good value for cooking of this high calibre.
Read: The best vegan restaurants in Edinburgh
Afternoon: Between Docks and City
After lunch, it’s time to discover how Leith connects to the broader Edinburgh experience. For an efficient overview, numerous bus tours in Edinburgh include Leith on their routes, offering comfortable transportation with informative commentary on the area’s evolution from separate port town to vibrant Edinburgh district.
If you’re keen to remain with your feet on terra firma, head to Leith Links, a large public park where golf was reportedly first played in Scotland. The green expanse offers a peaceful retreat from urban exploration and a glimpse into local life as dog walkers, joggers, and families enjoy this historic common ground.
Evening: Last Night in Port
You’ve worked up an appetite by now, we can tell, so we hope you’ve booked a table at Heron on The Shore well in advance. This stylish waterfront restaurant, opened in 2021 by chefs Sam Yorke, Scotland’s youngest Michelin-starred chef, and Tomás Gormley, has quickly established itself as one of Edinburgh’s finest dining destinations. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame views of the Water of Leith, while the kitchen showcases impeccable Scottish ingredients through a modern lens.
The menu changes regularly with the seasons, but you might find dishes like hand-dived Orkney scallops with Jerusalem artichoke, North Sea cod with smoked mussels, or Perthshire venison with blackberries and kale. It’s not cheap, with the tasting menu here priced at £135, but then again, great dining isn’t.
End your weekend with a nightcap at The Lioness of Leith, a stylishly refurbished traditional pub on Duke Street. Their cocktail menu ranges from perfectly executed classics to inventive concoctions utilising Scottish spirits and unexpected ingredients. The Leith Spritz with Edinburgh Rhubarb and Ginger Gin, Aperol, and prosecco makes for a refreshing conclusion to your culinary adventures. The pub’s eclectic décor – featuring vintage furniture, local art, and the occasional taxidermy – epitomises Leith’s knack for honouring tradition while embracing the unconventional.
The Bottom Line
Leith is somehow both authentic and aspirational, historic and forward-looking, working-class and cosmopolitan. In just 48 hours, you can sample its maritime heritage, culinary excellence, creative energy, and genuine community spirit – all while experiencing a side of Edinburgh that many visitors overlook.
As your whirlwind tour concludes, you’ll understand why Leithers proudly distinguish their neighbourhood from the rest of Edinburgh, even as they embrace their place within Scotland’s capital. The district’s sturdy dockside architecture framing views across the Forth, its seasonal cuisine celebrating Scotland’s natural bounty, and its unpretentious approach to culture and hospitality exemplify a distinctly Leith character – industrious, genuine, and quietly revolutionary.
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