Just 25 kilometres from Lisbon, the hilltop town of Sintra rises from the mist-shrouded Serra hills like something conjured from a Romantic poet’s imagination. Lord Byron called it a ‘glorious Eden’, and the town has been luring travellers ever since with its cascade of pastel palaces, crumbling medieval fortifications and gardens where exotic botanicals from five continents flourish beneath cork oaks and fern canopies. Here’s how to spend 48 hours in this UNESCO World Heritage town.
Day One: Palaces, Pastries & Panoramic Views
Morning: Historic Centre & National Palace
Arrive early at Sintra’s historic centre before the day-trippers descend from Lisbon. The twin conical chimneys of the Sintra National Palace dominate the skyline, rising 33 metres above the medieval rooftops. This is Portugal’s best-preserved royal residence, inhabited continuously by monarchs from the 15th to the 19th century.
The interior rewards slow exploration: seek out the Sala dos Brasões, its gilded dome displaying the coats of arms of 72 noble families, and the Moorish-influenced Arab Room with its central fountain. The vast kitchens, built to roast whole deer for royal banquets, remain impressive for their sheer scale. Allow 90 minutes for the visit.
Afterwards, join the queue at Casa Piriquita, the yellow-walled bakery founded in 1862. The travesseiros (puff pastry pillows filled with almond and egg cream) and queijadas (small cheese tarts) are essential Sintra sustenance. Grab a coffee and take your pastries to the palace square, watching the morning light shift across the old town’s terracotta roofs.
Late Morning & Lunch: Quinta da Regaleira
A ten-minute walk brings you to Quinta da Regaleira, arguably Sintra’s most enigmatic site. Built in the early 20th century for the eccentric millionaire António Monteiro, the four-hectare estate feels like wandering through someone’s fever dream.
The neo-Manueline palace is merely the gateway; the real fascination lies in the gardens, riddled with grottoes, hidden tunnels and loaded with Masonic and alchemical symbolism. The Initiation Well, a 27-metre spiral descent into the earth, draws the largest crowds. Arrive at your timed entry slot and head straight there, or wait until the initial rush clears. Budget two to three hours for the estate.
For lunch, Café Saudade on Avenida Dr. Miguel Bombarda is a twenty minute walk from the estate. This vintage-styled café serves light dishes, sandwiches and homemade cakes alongside a good selection of teas and coffees. It’s an atmospheric spot to refuel before the afternoon’s climbing.
Afternoon: The Moorish Castle
After lunch, take the 434 bus (or a tuk-tuk if you prefer) up the winding mountain road to the Castelo dos Mouros. This 9th-century fortification snakes along a granite ridge, its crenellated walls offering the finest views in Sintra: the colourful turrets of Pena Palace to the east, the Atlantic glinting to the west, the historic centre far below. The climb along the ramparts is steep in places but rewards with a tangible connection to medieval Iberia. This is Sintra at its most raw and atmospheric.
Evening: Dinner in Town
Return to the historic centre for dinner. Romaria de Baco, hidden on a side street near the National Palace, offers traditional Portuguese cooking with contemporary touches. The petiscos tasting menu is a good way to sample several dishes; ask the staff to suggest a wine pairing.
Alternatively, Incomum by Luís Santos takes a more refined approach to local ingredients, with dishes like slow-roasted octopus with sweet potato purée. Booking is essential at both.
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Day Two: Pena Palace & Hidden Gardens
Morning: Palácio da Pena
Book the earliest entry slot you can secure for the Palácio da Pena, Sintra’s crown jewel and one of Portugal’s most visited monuments. Built in the 1840s for King Ferdinand II, this hilltop confection of yellow, red and blue turrets blends Gothic, Moorish and Manueline styles with gleeful abandon. The interiors are opulent yet personal, the royal apartments preserved much as they were when the last queen of Portugal fled in 1910.
The surrounding park covers 200 hectares; if time allows, follow the trails to the Chalet of the Countess of Edla, a romantic Alpine-style retreat built for the king’s second wife.
Arrive before 10am if possible. By midday, the palace corridors become congested and the terraces lose their contemplative quality.
Midday: Palace & Gardens
The least visited of Sintra’s major palaces can actually be the most rewarding. Monserrate sits four kilometres west of the centre, accessible via the 435 bus or taxi. The palace itself, designed by English architect James Knowles for the wealthy industrialist Francis Cook in 1858, mixes Gothic, Indian and Moorish influences to extraordinary effect: domed ceilings, intricate stonework that resembles lace, and an octagonal entrance hall with delicate marble columns.
The botanical gardens are Portugal’s finest, home to over 3,000 species from around the globe. Wander through the fern valley, the Japanese garden and the Mexican garden, or simply find a bench overlooking the palace and let the Atlantic breeze do its work. Monserrate rarely feels crowded, even in high season; come in the late afternoon and you may have entire sections to yourself.
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Afternoon: Wine & Coastal Detour
Sintra’s western edge tumbles towards the Atlantic, where the village of Colares produces distinctive wines from vines grown in sand. Several quintas offer tastings; the red wines, made from the indigenous Ramisco grape, are unlike anything else in Portugal. Combine a tasting with a drive to Praia da Adraga or Praia da Ursa, two of the wildest beaches on this stretch of coast. The cliffs are dramatic, the water cold, and the sunsets worth rearranging your evening plans for.
Evening: A Palace Hotel or Local Favourite
If budget allows, dinner at the Tivoli Palácio de Seteais is a fitting conclusion to a Sintra weekend. This 18th-century palace turned five-star hotel serves refined Portuguese cuisine in its Marialva restaurant, decorated with original frescoes; the terrace overlooks formal gardens and the Pena Palace beyond.
For something less formal, Tascantiga in the town centre offers traditional Portuguese petiscos in a relaxed setting; the piri piri chicken and crispy potatoes are reliable choices.
The Bottom Line
Sintra rewards those who stay beyond the day-trip crowds. Two days allows time to experience the palaces at their best, explore the botanical gardens properly and discover the coastal fringes that most visitors never see. Come in spring or autumn when the mists roll through the Serra hills and the gardens are at their most atmospheric, and you’ll understand why Byron was so smitten.
And then it’s back to Lisbon for a final feed at one the city’s best restaurants. Can we come too?
