Back in the heady days of February, 2017, the most influential restaurant of modern times was closing its doors for the last time. Noma had spent the previous decade changing the game – those foraged petals on your plate? Noma. Fermented everything? Noma. ‘Last years + add ingredient here’? Noma. Split sauces? Noma. Chef residencies? Noma. The stripping away of formality in fine dining? Noma. Beards, white t-shirts and tattoos on chefs and servers alike? You guessed it, Noma.
Another legacy has been left. Restaurant 108, housed next to the smouldering rubble of its big brother, now carries the torch of the New Nordic, while maintaining a unique style all of its own.
Idea
With a waiting list for a seat at Noma, as well as the bill, stretching into the thousands, a more inclusive alternative was the want of so many culinary pilgrims. Those selfie hunters posing for photos next to the iconic sign are going to need somewhere to eat. 108 first started as a pop-up within the walls of Noma, and was successful enough to warrant its own space next door. The best thing about 108 is that it isn’t simply in thrall to its big brother’s ethos, it manages to stylistically differentiate itself and is all the more interesting for it.
Location
The warehouses in the Christianshavn area of central Copenhagen, on the waterfront, are atmospheric and beautiful in a minimalist, stripped back way. A short walk to the indoor market next door for a craft beer can cap off an evening here perfectly.
Atmosphere
The room is expansive, with high ceilings and wall to floor windows creating real space and a feeling of freedom. Chatter bounces around the room invitingly and light cascades in from river reflections. It’s both romantic and convivial. Big, sharing tables as well as more intimate, tucked away spots only add to this feeling. Service is informative and super friendly, just falling shy of feeling over familiar.
Food
‘Family’ plates are a focus here, and a key distinction from the looming presence of Mr. Redzepi. A huge grilled monkfish or glazed pork belly, for two or more, is the savvy option if you’re in a big group. Smaller plates with a big emphasis of seasonal, local vegetables are also available, delicious and thoughtful in equal measure.
Drink
Biodynamic wine takes centre stage. A sommelier is on hand, happy to point you in the right direction if your knowledge of this once esoteric drink choice isn’t extensive. The vibe is so pleasingly laid back that you won’t be judged in the slightest if you fancy just chugging back a few cold, craft beers from the tap.
Must Try
It sounds intimidating, but the raw lamb tartare with last year’s pickles is a joy – intriguing, beguiling and somehow familiar – the right recipe for a dish which sticks in your mind for a long time after eating it. Bear in mind the menu changes all the time, so this dish may not be there on your visit.
Why Go
Do not come here expecting Noma. 108 stands as a unique, enticing propostion, taking the best of the laid back service of which the New Nordic has so expertly honed, and channeling something altogether unique. The cooking is so thoughtful and delicate, yet still leaves you satisfied and sated. If you’re to choose one place in Copenhagen to experience the ever-evolving Scandi food ethos – go to 108.
*Unfortunately, as of September 2022, Restaurant 108 is now closed*
Address: Strandgade 108, 1401 København K, Denmark
Image sources: 108 Facebook