Routinely named as the world’s best salad, som tam is one of the best recognised dishes in the Thai food canon and eaten all over the country in different forms, guises and levels of pugency. Green papaya, although not essential to qualify as a som tam, is usually the basis of the dish, along with a spicy, sweet, salty and sour dressing.
To be pounded to order, this sharp, assertive dish is beloved of Bangkokians and as such, can be found on most streets in the city. Want the best version? Well, we’re more than happy to narrow down the options to just the best, with this; our 7 of the best places to eat som tam in Bangkok.
Zao Ekkamai
If you’re at all online in Bangkok, you’ll no doubt have seen Zao’s lycopene-flush cubes of watermelon adorning your Instagram feed in the last year. Dressed in the restaurant’s funky yet refined pla ra (fermented fish sauce) and sprinkled with fragrant ground roasted rice, it’s a dish designed to smooth the edges of a balmy day in Bangkok, both refreshing and invigorating in equal measure.
But don’t let that dish’s ubiquity take away from the superlative range of som tam served at this trailblazing nu-Issan joint. These are truly some of the best papaya salads we’ve had in Bangkok, Ubon or anywhere else for that matter, chef Eve Palasak’s gently innovative touch never detracting from the soul of a satisfying plate of som tam.
Go for the tam pa, roughly hewn and given heft via hoy cherry, hairy eggplant and other textural, pleasingly bitter delights. And do not leave without trying the exemplary pla som – fish fermented until pleasingly sour, here wrapped in a banana leaf, skewered and grilled. It’s a salty, smoky, piquant treat that we’re still getting our head around!
Facebook: Zao Ekkamai
Address: 155 ซ. ปรีดี พนมยงค์ 25 Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok 10110
Baan E-sarn Muangyos
Soi Sukhumvit 31 (or Soi Sawatdi to those who know) is one of Bangkok’s most celebrated thoroughfares, restaurant-wise.
Here you’ll find Michelin-starred Haoma rubbing shoulders with the celebrated Roman trattoria Appia (among our favourite Italian restaurants in the city) as well as the acclaimed Ministry of Crab and Thaan Charcoal Cooking.
Further down the road, world famous Gaggan is still doing his groundbreaking thing, with its excellent sibling restaurant Ms. Maria and Mr. Singh on the floor above arguably even more enticing.
With Michelin stars and global names dotted along the road, you’d be concerned that there may not be room for a humble Isaan restaurant, but Baan E-sarn Muangyos has been delighting the punch-drunk punters of Sukhumvit for as long as we can remember.
Here, the som tam is roughly shredded in the true North Eastern style, the dressings are funky, and the vibe boisterous – the restaurant doesn’t shut its doors until 4am. Accordingly, expect to see the good and the great of the Bangkok restaurant scene dining here once service is over.
Facebook: Baan E-sarn Muangyos
Address: Soi 31 Sukhumvit Rd, Khlong Toei Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok 10110
Bann Somtum
There are 29 different types – at the time of writing – of som tam at this wildly popular Sathon joint (though other branches in the city exist, this is our favourite).
When you enter – or, even as you approach in fact – the ubiquitous chorus of pounding pok poks indicates you’ve arrived. Go for a salted duck egg version, or one paired with sweet pork and kanom jim noodles.
High levels of spice are guaranteed, so make sure sticky rice is to hand. Harmonious som tam accompaniments like grilled meats and laap are served with skill, too.
Address: Baan Somtum (Sathon) 9/1 Soi Pramuan, Si Wiang Road, Bang Rak, Bangkok,
Website: baansomtum.com
Somtum Der
Somtum Der’s New York sister restaurant made big news in 2016 by winning a Michelin star, then losing it (reduced to a Bib Gourmand) the following year. The original is in Silom, and was awarded a Michelin plate in Bangkok’s inaugural guide.
The room is bright and airy, with an always occupied mezzanine and youthful vibe perfect for sinking a few singhas and enjoying the Northern Eastern hospitality. The place has the feel of a fast food joint, in menu design and speed of service, but as a place for entry level som tam, it’s perfect.
Address: 5/5 Saladaeng Rd, Khwaeng Silom, Khet Bang Rak, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon 10500
Website: somtumder.com
Phed Phed
As a general rule, ‘Thai’ or ‘Bangkok’ versions of som tam tend to be sweeter, with renditions which hail from the Northeast of Thailand (Isaan) or Laos leaning towards the pungent and with minimal sugar.
Phed Phed proudly falls into the latter camp, serving up uncompromisingly spicy, insanely delicious food from the country’s north east. This, it is said, is where som tam originated, making the journey over the border from neighbouring Laos. Fermented fish sauce (nam pla ra) and a rougher chop of papaya indicate you have yourself an Isaan version, and at Phed Phed, the som tam Isaan is as good as it comes.
Stay for a whole host of other amazing dishes, but do reserve in advance; this place is seriously popular with locals and walking in will only lead to disappointment.
Address: Various Locations
Website: phedphed.com
Lay Lao
When speaking of the perfect, quick Thai lunch, the ‘holy trinity’ is often mentioned; sticky rice, grilled chicken, and of course, som tam. Lay Lao in Bangkok’s hip Ari district provides all three. Being a restaurant with links to the seafood mecca of Hua Hin, many of the som tams have a pleasing shellfish bent; there’s a black crab,dried clam and squid version which notches high on both the saline and satisfying levels.
Address: 65 Soi Phahon Yothin 7, Phahon Yothin Road, Phaya Thai, Bangkok
Website: www.facebook.com/laylaoaree
Som Tam Jay So
The ‘Queen of Som Tam’ has earned her culinary crown at this Silom Issan salad and grill shop with super fiery som tams made out front and good vibes within. It’s always full at lunch, a hugely popular spot for office workers, so go there at 11am or 2pm to avoid the rush.
This is real deal Lao leaning som tam with fermented fish sauce and other delicious accoutrements of the region like paddy crab and apple snails. Ordering ain’t easy, as the menu is a do-it-yourself checklist only in Thai, but the staff are super friendly and more than willing to help. A must visit.
Address: Soi Phiphat 2, Silom, Bangkok 10500