Bangkok is huge, diverse, and distinct, and, to put it bluntly, choosing a hotel in the wrong area can ruin your stay. So, where should you base yourself? That really depends on what sort of stay you’re after.
If you’re a food lover looking for a place with loads of trendy restaurants and bars, Sukhumvit is the area for you. If shopping is your reason for visiting Bangkok, then it’s got to be Siam. For a vibrant nightlife scene, then say sawadee to Silom. However, if it’s a more cultured, laid back stay you’re after, then it’s on the banks of the Chao Phraya that you should be stretching out.
The riverside is not only a beautiful area of the city, it’s also home to Bangkok’s historic roots. It’s the best place to explore the magical capital’s three major sights – The Grand Palace, Wat Pho and the National Museum – as well as take in the more regal pace of the city, watching the river’s ebb and flow and how the many faces of Bangkok interact with that never ending flow of water.
Wedged between the Chao Phraya River and Phra Athit Road, Riva Surya is a boutique 4 star hotel with dreamy views across the river and easy access to Bangkok’s historic past, all from a vantage point of the city’s sophisticated present. Perfectly situated in Bangkok’s Old Town (Phra Nakorn), Riva Surya is a stone’s throw from both iconic landmarks and the infamous, occasionally appealing Khao San Road, making it ideal for both sightseeing and nightlife.
Read on for our full review of the Riva Surya, Bangkok…
Location
The hotel is located on Phra Athit Road (meaning ‘sun’ road). It’s one of the hippest streets in Bangkok, with loads going on to keep travellers of all stripes entertained.
Lining Phra Athit Road is an abundance of cute cafes, groovy bars and local restaurants, all housed in a collection of darling shophouses dating back to the turn of the last century. At night, the bars come alive with an eclectic mix of live music – pop, rock and jazz predominate. With its thriving music scene and eclectic mix of clientele, the area has a unique and inviting vibe that attracts locals and tourists alike. It’s an area popular with students, too, and provides an alternative nightlife experience to somewhat challenging Khao San.
Close by, towards the northern end of Phra Athit Road, Santichaiprakarn Park is a lovely tree-lined space not far from the hotel, where folk go to watch the sunset. It’s also home to Phra Sumen Fort, one of the two remaining forts of the original 14 built under King Rama I.
Riva Surya is also a ten minute walk to Khao San Road, supremely handy as you can make the most of the area’s budget vibe while staying in a gorgeous hotel. For something a little more laid back but still with an infectious, youthful energy, nearby Soi Rambuttri has a slightly more serene vibe, with the tunes several dials lower and the drinks in actual glasses, not buckets.
Well connected with a riverboat pier a short walk away from the hotel, catch one of these along the water and you can connect to both the MRT and BTS Skytrain with ease. Saphan Taksin BTS is a 25-minute boat ride away, while the closest MRT is Sanam Chai, which is just over 2 miles away. You can jump on a river taxi boat right outside the hotel to explore the city as it used to be explored, and easily nip up to Chinatown in a tuk-tuk or taxi, too.
Read: 7 of the best places to eat som tam in Bangkok
Character & Style
This much-coveted spot on the riverside has been owned by the same Thai family for generations. The lack of a larger hotel group’s corporate standardisation is apparent in the furnishings and flourishes – and is very welcome indeed, instead making use of a sophisticated, unique style with contemporary Thai decor.
Ornate carved wooden beams and panels line the walls and ceiling. Exotic fresh flowers and scented candles add warmth and an unmistakable, nostalgic aroma. The outside area of the hotel encourages guests to make the most of its sweeping view of the river, with plenty of tables, chairs and sun-loungers fringing the decking.
Rooms
There are only 68 rooms at Riva Surya, all simply but stylishly decorated in muted colours and blessed with contemporary Thai furnishings. It’s worth noting that despite its riverside location and the name, not every room looks out on the water. Instead, the Urban Rooms offer views of Phra Athit Road, with airy, shuttered balconies that are perfect for people watching.
At the other side of the hotel, the riverside rooms offer wonderful views of the water and are full of natural light. At night you can see the Rama VIII bridge all lit up, and dining boats cruising along the river. You do hear the boats chugging up the river – that is unavoidable on such a busy commercial waterway – but there’s something kind of soothing about the sound in the morning.
Everything about the rooms, from the vast, nap-encouraging beds to the roomy, walk-in shower, makes you want to spend time in them.
Facilities
The riverside pool stays open until 9pm so you have plenty of time to enjoy a relaxing dip after a day of traipsing around Bangkok. Do be aware that the pool isn’t that deep, so don’t expect a proper swim – more, a paddle. It’s also a little overlooked by the restaurant so one can feel a little exposed here in the busier hours of the day. That said, it’s great for relaxing and you can watch all the boats go by while you splash about in the water.
There’s no spa onsite, but massages can be enjoyed in the privacy of your gorgeous room. And if wandering around the city isn’t enough of a workout for you, there’s a small gym with views of the river here, open from 6am to 10pm.
Food & Drink
Breakfast at the Riva Surya hotel is one of the best things about the hotel. You can start your day by watching barges chug down river and water taxis ferrying commuters about, all whilst enjoying a bountiful buffet. There are all your Western favourites like fluffy pancakes, waffles and a great continental section, as well as favourites from this side of the globe, too, like steamed dumplings, congee and even miso soup. On the deck outside the restaurant, an egg station is set up, and the chef here makes a rolled omelette with admirable dexterity.
The hotel’s restaurant, Babble & Grill, offers all day dining, dishing up Thai, Asian and European selections, all served with a contemporary urban flair. The thing they are most proud of on the menu is their slow-smoked BBQ, with slow meats like 12-hour smoked beef brisket served with homemade cornbread, steak fries and coleslaw. There’s also Australian wagyu and barbecued short ribs on the menu for those needing a massive meaty fix.
Honestly, most of the food here is a little underwhelming, and there are better meals to be had elsewhere (more on that in a moment). That said, the Riverside Bar attached to the restaurant is ideal for a few sundowners and a handful of Thai snacks, like the always lip-smacking fermented sausage sai grok and some genuinely excellent tamarind glazed chicken wings.
If you venture outside the hotel, Phra Athit Road offers a myriad of more interesting dining options. For a quick bite, we recommend Khun Deng Guay Jub Yuan for a gorgeous, Vietnamese-influenced bowl of noodles. It’s just one minute away from the hotel on the other side of the road. Your order here is rice noodles swimming in a pork broth and topped with all sorts of delicious things like pork ribs, Vietnamese pork sausage, and a whole host of freshly picked herbs. It’s very popular with local office workers during lunch, so perhaps avoid pitching up between midday and 1pm.
For a more substantial meal, walk twenty minutes to Michelin-recommended Krua Apsorn, which serves up simple but supremely delicious Thai food. Alternatively, Aheesah Roddee is a short 10 minute walk from the hotel, and serves up khao mok neua, the Thai version of biriyani. It’s delicious. Then, it’s onto Kor Panich for dessert, which is known for serving some – if not the – best mango sticky rice in the country. And with that, we’re ready to retire to our room, stuffed and satiated.
Why Stay
The Riva Surya is so much more than a so-called flashpacker hotel. It’s something so much more refined than that. The heat, humidity and hecticness of Bangkok demand the fresh, cool breeze only a river can offer. Put these two together and the answer is obvious – Riva Surya.
Website: rivasuryabangkok.com
Address: 23 Phra Athit Rd, Khwaeng Chana Songkhram, Khet Phra Nakhon, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon 10200, Thailand
IDEAL Magazine stayed as a guest of the hotel