Preston Street (or ‘restaurant street’ to those in-the-know) isn’t the first place you’d expect to find a properly dark and grungy, backstreet Japanese izakaya. A bright and lively Brighton road leading down to a pebble beach, it feels more in tune with chippies and souvenir shops. But then, this city never ceases to surprise you.
So, here we are; perched at a bar, sipping warm sake and taking down plate after plate of grilled, skewers. Whether the latter is Bincho’s moreish crispy chicken skins, the restaurant’s delectable cubes of pork belly, their chicken hearts, or a simple half cob of sweetcorn, you can be assured that everything off the yakitori section of the menu will have been kissed by coals.
In fact, the restaurant’s name comes from the type of coals used here and in izakayas all over Japan, binchō-tan, which is famed for its ability to burn long and bright, keep temperatures consistent, and not give off any unwanted smoke or odours.
So, how did this restaurant that wouldn’t be amiss in Piss Alley, the Spiritual Home of Yakitori, come to Brighton? After working in Japan and spending his post-service late nights in Tokyo’s dive bars and grill joints, English Chef David Miney circled back to the UK and opened up Bincho, with the first iteration of the restaurant appearing in London’s Oxo Tower before switching lanes and heading to Brighton, where the coals keep burning to this day.
Just like the izakayas in Japan, Bincho’s yakatori offering comprises nearly every part of the chickens anatomy, from the aforementioned crispy folds of chicken skin to the offaly good (sorry) grilled hearts and livers.
The thing about yakitori is that there is nowhere to hide; there’s no dressing it up or dressing it down. Bincho even declare that they “won’t waste your time or your money on unnecessary garnish”, and the eating experience here is all the better for it. ‘No frippery, just flavour’ could easily be their motto.
It’s an ethos that also means nothing goes to waste. For some of the best bits of the chicken, keep your eye out for the off menu/special boards plates like nankotsu – a traditional Japanese dish made with chicken cartilage.
The restaurant doesn’t just deliver on its smoky promise of tasty morsels on sticks, and if you’re keen to get stuck into some bits not off the grill, mind, then the specials board can always be relied on for some tasty treats; the tempura fried sea bream with a dollop of pert seaweed mayo is particularly good.
Equally good is the ever crowd-pleasing chicken kara-age. Here, it’s a classic Tokyo version, which brings light and crunchy, pieces of juicy, deep-fried chicken to the table. It’s one of the most poppable chicken bites you’ll come across in the city, even with the famous New Orleans-based Popeyes Chicken opening up over on North Street at the end of last year.
Of course, it wouldn’t be a meal without rice, and even this humble grain is given the kiss of coals at Bincho. Here, grilled rice cake, blessed with a crisp, burnished crust, is perfect for mopping up all the sake you’ve been sipping. You have been sipping sake, right?
Indeed, as with all good izakayas, Bincho’s drinks lists offers a good range of sakes, where ”nothing on the menu is too pricey” (their words, though we can vouch for their veracity). There’s also some funky Japanese beer, both crafty numbers and more cleansing favourites like Asahi.
And once you’re done, the good news is that just opposite Bincho you’ll find one of Brighton’s best cocktail bars, Gung Ho. Kanpai!
A word of warning; getting a reservation at Bincho can be tricky, with seats being snapped up months in advance. Do the same to avoid disappointment. That said, the restaurant does welcome some walk-ins when it opens at 5.30pm, and you might get lucky just rocking up at that time. Finally, the chicken skins tend to sell out, so consider an early dinner booking if you’ve got your heart set on this dish. Or rather, your skin in this game…
Address: 63 Preston St, Brighton BN1 2HE, United Kingdom
Website: binchoyakitori.com