Looking for reliably outstanding tapas in London? Needing little in the way of an introduction, beloved Soho tapas bar Barrafina’s journey began sixteen years ago when the first location opened its doors on Dean Street. The brainchild of Sam and Eddie Hart, this innovative restaurant boasted a no-booking policy and an unfussy, ingredients-led approach to dining that wasn’t nearly as ubiquitous in UK urban centres as it is now.
At the helm of Barrafina’s culinary success until May of this year was Executive Chef Angel Zapata Martin, a champion of authentic Spanish tapas in the UK. With previous experience working in renowned restaurants like the 3-Michelin starred El Racó de Can Fabes, the chef brought his expertise in Spanish cuisine to every dish served at Barrafina, whether that’s in the deceptively simple pan con tomate, topped perhaps unconventionally with finely sliced chives, or on the imposing bomba, a classic croquette from the backstreets of Barcelona.
Recently, it has been announced that chef Antonio Gonzales Milla will take this place. We’re expecting big things from the Andalucia-born chef.
Regardless of who’s heading up the kitchen, it’s on the portable, personal chalkboard of specials – constantly doing the rounds of the L-shaped central counter here – where the real joy is found, with fresh fish hooked off the ice display opposite to order, and being kissed by the plancha within seconds. If there’s ever a whole John Dory on, dressed simply with quality sherry vinegar and fried slices of garlic that are almost bitter, then make it yours.
With only 23 seats available around that illustrious counter (modelled on, incidentally, the legendary Cal Pep in Barcelona) the space is intimate and bustling, filled as much by the energy of the primarily Spanish staff as it is the restaurant’s chattering patrons. It’s a spot on a stool that will have you feeling plenty content with the world.
Barrafina Soho has held a Michelin star since 2014.
Website: barrafina.co.uk