Berenjak, Soho’s first Iranian-inspired restaurant, is the work of the increasingly ubiquitous JKS Restaurants, with skilled chef Kian Samyani, formerly of Gymkhana and Brigadiers, at the helm.
Inspired by Tehran’s hole-in-the-wall kabab houses (which may or may not actually be a thing) the menu features succulent charcoal grilled kababs and khoresht stews, as well as superb mazeh-style small plates, and, perhaps most famously, an incredible baklava ice cream sandwich.
Though the kebabs – complete with freshly grilled bread and peaks of saffron-hued rice – are no doubt the headlining act, it’s the small plates that steal the show. The black pea hummus is especially good. Ultra smooth and with a particularly pungent tahini-sumac one-two punch, it almost tastes like chicken liver parfait.
If you don’t necessarily want that effect from your vegetarian mazeh, then steer towards the equally luxurious tasting mirza ghasemi, which sees blackened aubergine’s flesh scooped out spun through with a mixture of garlic, tomato and softly scrambled eggs. It’s wonderful.
Yep, Berenjak certainly isn’t a carnivore-exclusive affair. The name itself is inspired by the brightly coloured, toasted rice snacks enjoyed at Persian funfairs, setting the tone for a playful, nostalgic dining experience, as well as the dining room itself; all beautifully intricate Iranian tiles and rich leather banquette seating. Indeed, whilst the spitting, dripping kebabs gently turning over coals certainly catch the eye, the restaurant is much lighter on its feet than just, well, meat.
What truly sets Berenjak apart, however, is the sense of family, community and conviviality that permeates the entire dining experience. Samyani’s long-standing relationships with his team members, some of whom he has known for over a decade, ensure that the restaurant operates with a genuine warmth. And that’s not just coming from the charcoal grill!
Website: berenjaklondon.com