Shuko Oda’s Koya is one of London’s most straightforwardly enjoyable, soul-nourishing restaurants, Japanese or otherwise.
A walk-in joint serving a variety of hot and cold Japanese dishes, there’s nothing quite like stepping into Koya on a properly cold London day; inside you’ll be greeted by an understated and utilitarian interior that transports you straight to Japan, the steam rising off various stovetop stockpots steaming up the windows and helping you forget the bite outside.
Founded by the talented Shuko Oda, Koya has quickly become a beloved favourite of London’s culinary scene, offering a unique blend of traditional Japanese cuisine with a touch of local flair – see the English breakfast udon noodle bowl, which deploys bacon, and shitake, its nod to the capital’s fry-up culture the perfect encapsulation of that ethos.
In the same vein, the smoked haddock and poached egg porridge with curry sauce comes billed as ‘kedgeree’ but may in fact be several notches better.
It’s not all fusion dishes on the menu, of course. Koya has earned itself a reputation as a go-to spot for traditional Japanese breakfast in Soho, too.
A traditional Japanese Breakfast often comprises rice, fish, miso soup and other small sides. It’s this kind that you’ll find at Koya. It’s light, sure, but packed with umami; the richness coming from the savoury miso broth a gentle kickstart to any morning. Breakfast is served here from 10am to midday.
Of course, the udon noodles are the star of the show here, and as the day cranks into gear, the restaurant offers various types of udon dishes, broadly divided into three categories; hot udon in a hot broth (Atsu-Atsu), cold udon in hot broth (Hiya-Atsu), and cold udon with cold sauces to dip or pour (Hiya-Hiya), the latter just perfect for the hottest summer days.
Each comes with a choice of toppings and accoutrements, with extra flourishes available too – do not miss the tamago poached egg. Pick your poison depending on your mood that day – however you play it, these bowls of sustenance and subsistence are sure to improve it.
While the iconic traditional Japanese breakfast and steaming bowls of udon noodles with tempura prawn are the headliners, sure, but there’s so much more to enjoy here, from the perfectly poised house pickles all the way to braised pork belly with cider, gelatinous and giving in all the right places.
With the majority of Koya’s vegetables sourced from Namayasai Farm in East Sussex, there’s a immediacy and freshness to the flavours here that hasn’t been lost to airmiles. Yep, this is certainly a place that will nourish you.
Koya also has branches in Hackney and Bloomberg Arcade.
Website: koya.co.uk
Address: 50 Frith St, London W1D 4SQ, United Kingdom
Nearest tube: Tottenham Court Road or Leicester Square
