In a market already crowded with pan Asian ‘street food’ offerings, where you cannot walk for 5 minutes in the centre of London without encountering another Banh Mi stall or Dim Sum peddler, you would be forgiven for thinking there was no further room for a loosely Taiwanese, ‘fast’ food operation. Think again. Never underestimate the power of the instagrammable dish. What was once a tiny market stall selling one photogenic favourite to a few lucky punters has now expanded to 3 central London locations, an obsessive cult following, national media recognition and an array of merchandise to boot. Bao’s ambition is commendable, and once you’ve tried the star dish, the giver of social media recognition and the restaurant’s name, it is also understandable. It’s just so bloody tasty.
Location
With 3 outposts in Soho, Fitzrovia and Netil Market, you may think Bao’s pesky no-reservations policy would have led to fanatics distributed fairly across the city and queues accordingly light. At each location, however, you will be met by the sight of a line snaking around the block. Do not let this put you off though, as diners are usually in and out fairly quickly, the crowd moving with fair gusto. Our favourite of the 3 is the Fitzrovia joint, with it’s horse-shoe seating around a central bar lending itself to conversation starters and efficient service.
Atmosphere
With youthful exuberance from clientele through to staff, the vibe is very much selfies and snaps of the food, modest alcohol consumption and a slightly clinical attitude to getting you fed briskly. This is not to say you feel rushed though, and certainly doesn’t detract from the appreciation of the food, it just makes you grateful for the swiftness of the pre-dinner wait.
Food
The star of the show is rightfully the most ordered, oft plagiarised dish, a pillowy steamed bun filled with pork belly and other complementing treats. Crispy shallots give sweetness, bitterness and crunch, while their homemade, Bao branded XO sauce adds a certain vigor. It really is a masterful piece of work, and priced keenly around the 4 pound mark, is deceptively cheap.
It’s impossible to only order one, so be careful as your bill can really rack up! This is not to say that other dishes aren’t treated with the same care and attention – a fried chicken with a soy cured egg yolk is sublime, crisp and unctuous, and their blood cake is the closest to more traditional Taiwanese fare that we could find (and darned delicious too!). The strength of the supporting cast is one of Bao’s great strengths, you go in intending to sample the headline act but leave full and happy as temptation led you very much astray.
Read: 5 Ideal Places To Eat Bao Buns In London
Drink
Taiwanese beers are served by the can and cocktails contain some unique touches which make them difficult to pass over – think white miso and salted plum. Bao doesn’t have the feel of a place you’d go to knock a few back and spend the night putting the world to rights, and they acknowledge this with a strong soft drink showing. Their home-made peanut milk is a clear favourite for many and is the perfect accompaniment to wash down each bite of bao.
Must Try
The confit pork bao, with aforementioned crispy shallots and XO sauce, is a slight variation on their original and our favourite of the bunch. We’ve tried the similar and much revered Momofuku NYC version and this comes very close indeed.
Why Go
If your Instagram isn’t making your friends jealous enough, then head here for a snap of these must-eat treats. Alternatively, if you just want a bloody good, thoughtfully put together feed, with your phone firmly off, this place is great for that too.
Website: baolondon.com
