We hate to throw around the word ‘institution’ willy nilly, but Gambrinus is just that. An old-school spot that has been open for close to a century, the vibe here is fine dining, white tablecloths and silver service, all with a focus on seafood.
Although named after the legendary King Gambrinus, the patron saint of beer and good times, the prototypical rowdy and raucous Lisbon seafood spot this ain’t. Instead you’ll find a more subdued, subtle atmosphere. Sometimes, it’s what you need in such a lively city.
Indeed, Gambrinus feels like you’re stepping back in time, its ambience remaining more or less unchanged since they remodelled the restaurant in 1964 – think dark wooden panelling, red carpets and immaculate linen tablecloths. In the main dining room hangs a gorgeous tapestry representing the four seasons, whilst glimmering in the smaller dining room is a stained glass depiction of the beer-swigging from a glass King Gambrinus himself. Service is attentive, almost reverent.
There’s a danger that the food might be something of an afterthought at Gambrinus, but with decades of experience cooking seafood, the guys on the stoves certainly know what they’re doing. Sure, it’s old fashioned cooking – correct and classic – all the way down to the Iranian caviar on the menu, but it works.
All that said, we’re here for a perch at the restaurant’s iconic wooden bar. It’s one of our favourite spots to dine solo in Lisbon, and you’ll find us here, swigging a Gambrinus tulip beer (a blend of ‘white’ and dark beer) while snacking on toasted almonds and slices of butter-slathered rye bread in between courses of hot (a rare thing in the city!) beef croquettes with Colman’s mustard. They sure do love their mustard in Lisbon.
Order a plate of gossamer thin serra ham and the restaurant’s signature prego, too, which is one of the best you’ll find in the city. They also serve another sandwich, the sandes de rosbife, which sees perfectly rare beef with tartare sauce sandwiched between that rye bread. Order all three plates and you’ve got one hell of a meal. And, one hell of a carb overload.
If you’re here with guests and want to impress, don’t skip the crepe suzette, prepared tableside. Or, do as we do and finish your meal with a balloon coffee prepared in a mad scientist-like syphon coffee maker, alongside a slice of their custardy, salty abade priscos pudding.
It’s worth noting that the Gambrinus is also famous for its pies; partridge pie served on Mondays and lobster pie on Thursdays. A fine excuse to visit more than once in a single week, we think.
Address: R. das Portas de Santo Antão 23, 1150-264 Lisboa, Portugal
Website: gambrinuslisboa.com
