This is an upscale Thai restaurant serving refined and sophisticated Thai dishes that are a little different. Come here if you’re after Thai fare that you know will be good.
If there is one thing I’ve learnt from my father, a Thai chef, it’s that Thailand is a vast and culturally diverse country. And just like the culture, its food is wonderfully varied. For example, the cuisine in Northern Thailand is full of dried spices and the prevalent use of tamarind instead of lime, whereas the cuisine from central Thailand is known for it’s sweetness thanks to palm sugars and also its richness from coconut cream. The two are completely different.
However, despite the huge repertoire of Thai cusine, in most western countries we’ve come to know only a select number of dishes. If you were ordering a Thai takeaway, I bet most of you would know what you wanted without the need to look at a menu. As Andy Ricker, a chef renown for bringing authentic Thai food to America, so rightly put ‘Thai food has come to refer to a certain circumscribed canon of dishes.’
You know what he means – chicken satay, Thai fish cakes, phad Thai, massaman curry and papaya salad. The menu at Nipa Thai has all these things, and in this sense, albeit more refined and sophisticated, the food here is very ordinary. However refreshingly for all the Thai food aficionados out there, it also includes some regional specialities, showing that Thai food is so much more than those ubiquitous menus at most Thai Restaurants.
The Idea
Upscale Thai dining in a hotel restaurant. The restaurant was awarded 2 AA Rosettes for its precision, authenticity and finesse and it also received the “Thai Select” award from the Thai Government, an award only given to restaurants that achieve the highest standards of quality and cuisine – impressive.
Location
The restaurant is set in London’s premier 4 star hotel the Lancaster London. Great if you’re in central London and fancy a Thai food fix.
Style and Ambiance
In most Thai restaurants, I’d encourage you not to be afraid of eating sticky rice with your hands – there’s something so satisfying about grabbing a handful of the stuff and mopping up some sauce with it, just like the Thai peple do. However here I’d advise you to refrain yourself. This is an upscale Thai restaurant and the elegant dining room invites you to be on your best behaviour. That said, set against a backdrop of calming Thai music, the ambience of the restaurant is welcoming and warm and the staff are charming. The restaurant itself is beautiful. The panelled teak interior and sombre Thai carvings give the restaurant it’s elegant edge. Oh and it even showcases original Thai artefacts – tick for authenticity.
Food
The food here is good, it’s not Smoking Goat good, and is sometimes a bit too sweet for my taste, but if you’re craving Thai, it ticks all the boxes and the menu is full of flavour. The authentic spices used in the food are flown in from Thailand, however the spice is dialled down for western taste. Portion sizes are generous and the repertoire of the menu is good, catering to people who are after the usual Thai restaurant classics, and to those who want to try something a little different.
Here’s my food rundown:
Ruam Mitr
If you’re indecisive and like to try everything, then go for this dish which is a selection of starters – think Thai fish cakes, chicken satay, and other classics. The homemade dipping sauces are lovely.
Lamb Massaman Curry
This massaman curry is seriously rich and the presentation is ace. Instead of chunks of lamb, it comes on the bone – very sophisticated and refined. It teeters on the edge of being too sweet, but nonetheless is a great dish.
Scallops and Asparagus
The real name for this dish is ‘nor mia fa rang phad hoy shell’ which is a bit of a mouthful to say, however this dish is also a serious mouthful to eat – and I mean that in a good way. It’s delicate and delicious and the asparagus is cooked to perfection. There’s nothing worse than overcooked limp asparagus spears.
Phad Thai
For my taste, the Phad Thai was way too sweet and missing an acidic touch. However, that was easily rectified. I ordered some extra lime, squirted it over the noodles. After that it was delicious.
Pla Phad Char
Fried sea bass with Thai aubergine, lemongrass, red chilli, lime, sweet basil and peppercorns. This wonderfully fragrant dish is a must order and a standout dish.
Mango Sticky Rice
Whenever mango sticky rice is on a Thai dessert menu (and that’s often) I surrender to temptation. I can’t get enough of its chewy texture and sweet flavor. The version here is seriously good. Order it.
Drinks
The wine menu is good. However, as always, the rich yet refreshing Singha beer is the perfect accompaniment to Thai cuisine.
Why Go
If you’re only familiar with pad Thai and massaman curry, wonderful. Come here for an upscale version of both that won’t disappoint. If you want something a little more adventurous you can get that here too. However, if you’re after something completely different that will completely knock your socks off, you’re probably better going to Som Saa or Smoking Goat.