Ideal for those looking for a sit down meal with air conditioning in Ari.
A dedicated sky train stop, an enviable position both in the action and far enough from the brasher parts of town to feel laid back and sophisticated, we think it’s safe to say that Ari is central Bangkok’s hippest ‘hood. Unusually for the megacity, the neighbourhood feels gently paced, spacious and, whisper it, green and clean. It’s perfectly suited for strolling, with the pavements here lined with trees and a certain type of cute cafe that Thailand does so well.
What’s more, the high density of offices in the area means the street-level food options are high quality; when workers spill out at noon and late afternoon, they want to be fed properly. There’s no tourist toning down of spice and raising of price here; just amazing, accurately cooked grub.
With that in mind, here’s where to eat in Ari, Bangkok.
Lay Lao
When speaking of the perfect, quick Thai lunch, the ‘holy trinity’ is often mentioned; sticky rice, grilled chicken, and of course, som tam (pounded papaya salad). Lay Lao, just a two minute walk from Ari skytrain, does all three perfectly. That Ari lunchtime crowd certainly agree.
Being a restaurant with links to the seafood mecca of Hua Hin, many of the som tam salads have a pleasing shellfish bent; there’s a black crab, dried clam and squid version which notches high on both the saline and satisfying levels. Should the intriguing Southeast Asian fruit santol be in season, be sure to order a salad (som kratorn) using it; their signature dish and one which sells out quickly. Their grilled pork neck (mu yang) and squid stuffed with squid roe (pla muek yang) are both excellent, too.
Website: lay-lao.business.site
Address: Phahon Yothin 7 Alley, Khwaeng Samsen Nai, Khet Phaya Thai, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon 10400
Ong Tong Khao Soi
There’s not many places in Bangkok whose khao soi stands up to a Chiang Mai version. But Ong Tong Khao Soi established their name first in Thailand’s second city before bringing their superb Lanna food to the capital. Regardless of location, they do the famous coconut and curry broth, with egg noodles, braised meat and all the fixings, as good as anywhere in the country.
If you’re wondering where to eat in Ari, Bangkok, particularly Northern Thai food, then this one might be for you. Though Lanna food in Bangkok is perhaps unrepresented compared to the country’s other regional cuisines, this place is humming every day of the week. Open from 10:30am to 8:30pm, and serving several other northern classics like the herbal sausage sai ua, and northern laap salad, this is a must visit for those wanting to try the food of Thailand’s north without leaving Bangers.
Address: 17 Phahonyothin Soi 7, Khwaeng Samsen Nai, Khet Phaya Thai, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon 10400
Thanee Khao Moo Daeng
Among Ari’s many excellent lunch spots, Thanee Khao Moo Daeng has earned near-mythical status for doing two things exceptionally well. Their crispy pork (moo krob) arrives with shatteringly crunchy skin, while their red pork (moo daeng) is braised until tender in a glossy, vivid red gravy that’s become something of a signature, the red stains on starched white shirts doing some covert marketing when the office workers finish up lunch and head back to their desks.
The place thrives on repeat custom from the neighbourhood’s office crowd, who pack it out during peak hours. Time your visit for around 11am before the rush, or swing by after 2pm when the lunchtime frenzy has died down and you’ll have a much easier time securing a seat.
Address: 1161-3 Soi Phaholyothin 7
Phed Phed
As a general rule, food from Thailand’s North East has a different soul to the rest; uncompromisingly spicy, super funky, no coconut milk and barely a hint of sugar. Perhaps most importantly, it’s insanely delicious.
Phed Phed, meaning ‘spicy spicy’ (as in, very), makes no sacrifices on how Isaan food should be. Bangkokians can’t get enough of it; the city has taken to the restaurant with open arms, it’s always full and two more outposts have recently been added to the roster.
The som tam salad here, in the original restaurant, comes in more than twenty iterations, most using the fermented fish sauce ‘pla ra’ so beloved of the region. The result is something funkier and certainly spicier than you might be used to, but it’s amazing. Also fantastic is their country style herbal soup (gaeng om) and pork fermented with sticky rice and garlic (the famous naem sausage) done rustic and coarse, rather than the smoother iterations you often find.
Though the food is self assured in its seasoning, the decor is a perfect match for ari; light, airy and with loads of foliage. If this sounds like your vibe, then make sure you book in advance via their Facebook page; enough English is spoken there to get by, and the menu has pictures and translations.
Facebook: www.facebook.com/PhedPhedFood
Address: 8 Phahonyothin Alley, Khwaeng Samsen Nai, Khet Phaya Thai, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon 10400
Baytong Chicken Rice
This unassuming neighbourhood spot has built a devoted following for its take on Betong-style chicken rice, a Thai-Chinese preparation that hails from Thailand’s deep south near the Malaysian border. The chicken arrives with taut, glossy skin and tender meat, served alongside fragrant rice cooked in chicken stock and a trio of dipping sauces that range from classic to seafood-infused variations.
The restaurant itself channels old-school Chinese diner vibes with its simple, nostalgic interior and brisk service. During peak lunch hours, expect to join the queue of office workers and locals who’ve made this a regular haunt. The complimentary chicken broth, available for refills throughout your meal, adds a comforting touch to what’s already a thoroughly satisfying plate of food.
Arrive late morning or during lunch service for the best chance of securing a table without the evening wait times.
Address: Ari Soi 4 (north side) or Phahonyothin Soi 9, Phaya Thai, Bangkok 10310
Khua Kling Pak Sod
Lovers of spicy Southern soul food in Bangkok have been raving about this hugely popular Southern Thai restaurant group for some time. The food of the region has been enjoying massive popularity in the city in recent years, and Khua Kling Pak Sod has certainly played a part in that acclaim. It all started in one beloved family run joint in downtown Sukhumvit, using family recipes and a faithful connection to the producers of the south, and the formula worked superbly; it has led to several more in the city.
The Ari rendition of Khua Kling Pak Sod keeps things consistent; classic Southern Thai dishes are unapologetically spicy, and fresh seafood is sourced from down south daily. The restaurant’s namesake dish khua kling – a minced pork curry, stir fried with red curry paste and served dry – throbs with local prik kee noo chillis to an almost nuclear level, and is all the better for it.
Their yellow coconut milk curry of crab meat, served with thin kanom jeen fermented rice noodles is another belter; offering less respite from the heat than the name suggests and, though we may be repeating ourselves, is all the better for it.
Perhaps steer clear if spice isn’t your thing. But if it is, Khua Kling Pak Sod is one of the best restaurants in the city.
Website: www.khuaklingpaksod.com
Address: 24 Rama VI Soi 30, Khwaeng Samsen Nai, Khet Phaya Thai, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon 10400
Soei
The connoisseur’s choice, this. Soei, after a recent upping of sticks from its original position next to railway tracks down the road, is housed around 20 minutes from Ari BTS, and is a bit of a meander through the district’s alleyways; in other winds, bring sat nav! Make the dimly lit journey, though, and you’ll be rewarded with a Bangkok institution full of lively drinkers, crashing woks and noisy chatter.
The food here is defined by flavour rather than anything strictly regional, and there’s a fair amount of recipe riffing by the chef (a former sportsman whose medals and trophies are as close to ‘decor’ as you’ll get here). The fried mackerel faces – kaem pla too tod – are seasoned simply with garlic and salt, served with a chilli sauce, and are something of a signature. As such, it’s wise to ring ahead if you fancy a plateful. The fried egg salad – yam khai dao – is another must order. It’s oh so simple, but when done right, like it is here, it’s amazing.
One word of warning though; come prepared to wait. Service is slow, the chefs run to their own rhythm and it gets super busy later in the evening. Settle in with a beer, though, be prepared to take your time, and there’s no better place to get fed.
Address: Phibun Watthana 6 Alley, Khwaeng Samsen Nai, Khet Phaya Thai, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon 10400
