There’s a saying in Italy: “Non si mangia per vivere ma si vive per mangiare” – we don’t eat to live, we live to eat. And in the Eternal City, this philosophy rings truer than anywhere else, for it’s often said (in my stupid head anyway), that the Romano de Roma has an emulsion of Pecorino and pasta water running through their veins.
From centuries-old trattorias serving up perfect plates of carbonara to innovative fine dining joints pushing culinary envelopes all over the negozio, Rome’s food scene is a surprisingly satisfying balance of tradition and gentle innovation.
Indeed, Rome’s culinary landscape isn’t just about trippa alla romana and cacio e pepe (though both are certainly worth crossing continents for). The city plays host to everything from traditional Roman-Jewish cuisine to contemporary seafood restaurants, with its own take on pizza and deep fried street food rubbing shoulders and sharing lanes with some of the most affordable Michelin-starred experiences in Europe.
Yes, Rome has it all, but in a city where every cobblestone seems to hide either a cosy trattoria or a smart contemporary bistrot, it can be hard to separate the tourist traps from the treasures. We’re here to help you find only the greatest; here are the very best restaurants in Rome.
Armando al Pantheon, Pigna (Historic Centre)
Ideal for pinpoint renditions of Rome’s most cherished classics…
It could be argued that Rome’s Pigna district – the part of the historic centre that contains the Pantheon – is one of the city’s worst places to dine. Full of subpar gelato and couldn’t-care-less trattorias, finding a faithfully rendered rendition of Rome’s famous four pasta dishes in this part of town is surprisingly difficult.
All that changes if you’ve landed yourself a table at Armando al Pantheon. Just steps from the ancient dome, Armando al Pantheon is one of Rome’s proudest flagbearers of the city’s true culinary heritage. The Gargioli family’s dedication to Roman cuisine spans over fifty years, evident in the textbook versions of Roman classics that bless every plate that leaves their kitchen.
It’s Armando’s commitment to seasonal Roman ingredients and techniques that have largely vanished elsewhere that raises the restaurant above the rest. Their panino coratella, a sandwich filled with tender lamb offal, represents the kind of authentic Roman dish that’s increasingly hard to find. It certainly doesn’t harm that it’s bloody delicious.
Look, too, for puntarelle (Catalonian chicory) with anchovy sauce and carciofi alla romana (simmered artichokes) in the cooler months. When it warms up, delicate stuffed zucchini flowers take centre stage. It almost goes without saying that the carbonara, amatriciana et al are pinpoint versions.
Save room for the tiramisu, which is, quite simply, not even the same dish from your fridge cold Saino’s version. Their wine list improves yearly, featuring small producers from across Italy, with house wines offering exceptional value at modest prices. The house red (a smooth, fruity Rossé Ribelà) is keenly priced at just 28 euros. What’s not to love?
Armando al Pantheon is closed on Sundays, and is open for both lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday.
Website: armandoalpantheon.it
Address: Salita dè Crescenzi 31, 00186 Roma
Alle Carrette, Monti
Ideal for Roman-style pizza in charming Monti…
Another fine restaurant a gladiator’s gallop away from a famous Roman monument (this time, the Colosseum and Forum double-header), is Alle Carette.
In a city where pizza can be hit-or-miss, especially in tourist-heavy areas, Alle Carrette stands out as a neighborhood gem that’s maintained its integrity and quality for decades. Housed in a space that feels authentically Roman with its copper-colored walls and bare-brick arches, this bustling pizzeria serves up some of the finest thin-crust pies in the Eternal City.
The pizzas here epitomise the traditional Roman style – a satisfyingly thin and crispy affair with perfectly charred edges and plenty of structural integrity. While the classic fennel sausage number never disappoints (especially with the buffalo mozzarella upgrade), you should really try their namesake La Carrette, featuring a salty but harmonious combination of guanciale, taleggio, and tomato. When in Rome, and all that…
Whatever you do, don’t skip the fritti – their zucchini flowers stuffed with mozzarella and anchovies are legendary, and the fried baby artichokes (carciofini), served simply with a quarter of lemon, are among the best in Rome. Quite the claim in a city full of the stuff, we know, but one we’re happy to vouch for…
Despite its location in the trendy Monti neighborhood, prices at Alle Carrette remain remarkably reasonable, making it a favourite among both locals and savvy tourists who are either in-the-know or have just happened to chance upon the place.
The atmosphere strikes that perfect Roman balance – lively enough for a group dinner but still intimate enough for a casual date. In the warmer months, the small outdoor seating area offers prime people-watching opportunities. Book ahead for dinner, though the efficient service means walk-in waits are rarely too long.
Keep in mind this is a proper sit-down pizzeria – no by the slice vibes here. Even more excuse to get stuck in, we think!
Alle Carrette is open for both lunch and dinner, 7 days a week.
Facebook: @AlleCarrette
Address: Via della Madonna dei Monti 95, 00184 Roma
Supplizio, Campo de’ Fiori
Ideal for Rome’s favourite street food bites…
In a city where street food has ancient roots, Supplizio elevates the humble suppli – Rome’s beloved fried rice ball – into an art form. Acclaimed chef Arcangelo Dandini’s charming spot near Campo de’ Fiori feels more like a cozy living room than a takeaway joint, with its terracotta floors, exposed brick walls, and comfortable leather sofas inviting you to linger over your crispy treats (though not too long – a queue’s forming!).
The menu revolves around creative interpretations of the classic suppli, each handcrafted with premium ingredients including long-aged Carnaroli rice and organic vegetables, and all priced at €3. While the traditional ragu and mozzarella version is executed perfectly, those keen to ground themselves even further in the Eternal City’s food traditions should of course try the cacio e pepe or carbonara versions. Don’t miss their other fritti – the smoked potato croquettes and anchovy meatballs with Dandini’s house-made garum (a nod to ancient Roman cuisine) are standouts.
Honestly, it’s all excellent. Everything is cooked to order, ensuring each golden-breaded morsel arrives at the perfect temperature for that iconic string of melted mozzarella (what Romans call the ‘telephone line’) when pulled apart. Order yourself a Peroni or two before moving on – it’s an almost obligatory accompaniment.
Website: supplizioroma.it
Address: Via dei Banchi Vecchi 143, 00186 Roma
Piperno, Jewish Ghetto
Ideal for historic Roman-Jewish fine dining…
Since 1860, Piperno has been serving refined Roman-Jewish cuisine from its palazzo dining room. The service, complete with bow-tied waiters, makes you feel like minor nobility. Start with the impossibly light fried starters – the filetti di baccalà (fried salt cod) and potato croquettes are mandatory. The seafood risotto and fontina-enriched gnocchi show there’s more to Roman-Jewish cuisine than just frying. Save room for their legendary zabaione.
Piperno is closed on Mondays.
Website: ristorantepiperno.it
Address: Via Monte dè Cenci 9, 00186 Roma
Testaccio Market, Testaccio
Ideal for Rome’s most authentic food market experience…
In a city of great markets, Testaccio’s stands out for its pitch-perfect blend of tradition and modernity. Housed in a modern structure since 2012, this bustling market manages to honour its 19th-century roots while embracing contemporary Roman food culture. With over 100 stalls spread across 5’000 square metres, it’s both a neighborhood essential and a food lover’s paradise.
While the market excels at fresh produce, meats, and seafood, it’s the prepared food stalls that make it a dining destination. Don’t miss Mordi e Vai (Box 15), where former butcher Sergio Esposito crafts transcendent tripe sandwiches from traditional Roman recipes – their tripe panino, which houses intestines simmered in a savoury, tomato-based broth, is legendary. Grab a ticket; you won’t have to wait long for your number to be called.
Opposite Mordi e Vai, Casa Manco (Box 22) serves exceptional pizza al taglio using whole wheat flour. The stracciatella, courgette flower and anchovy number is intense and immense. No wonder Food and Wine recently declared Casa Manco “the world’s best pizza”. Arguably, Manco’s porchetta sandwiccia is even better.
Across the way, Le Mani in Pasta (Box 58) offers fresh handmade pasta you can watch being made. For wine lovers, Da Corrado (Box 18) pairs natural wines with some of Rome’s finest meatballs. It’s all here, and it’s all absurdly satisfying.
Visit in the morning (it’s open Monday through Saturday, from 7am to 2:30pm) when the market is at its liveliest – though expect a rush of local students around lunchtime. The modern facility even incorporates visible Roman ruins beneath glass floors, though this archaeological area is only accessible on Tuesdays with reservations. While tourists are welcome, this remains very much a working neighborhood market where quality and value still reign supreme.
Website: mercatotestaccio.it
Address: Via Aldo Manuzio, 66b, 00153 Roma RM, Italy
Da Felice, Testaccio
Ideal for power lunches of Rome’s finest cacio e pepe…
The recent refurbishment of this Testaccio institution proves that updating tradition doesn’t mean selling your soul. Rather than infuriating locals and killing the inherent vibe of the place, the renaissance of this historic spot (first opened in 1936) has once again made Da Felice one of Rome’s buzziest trattorias, a decade after rumours of its decline began circulating. It’s got a slicker, more modern feel now, sure, yet the food remains steadfastly Roman.
Their tonnarelli cacio e pepe is still widely considered Rome’s best – they finish it tableside with a dramatic flourish, tossing the pasta enthusiastically with salad servers until properly luscious and creamy. We’d travel to this corner of Testaccio just for a bowl of the stuff – in fact, it’s a great choice for a power lunch, with speedy, efficient service meaning you’re in and out in less than an hour if you want to be. Not before you’ve ordered the signature tiramisu, though, which is served in tall glasses with a cheeky surprise of chocolate ganache lurking at the bottom.
Book well in advance and expect to see everyone from local politicians to food TikTokers in the exposed-brick dining room.
Wesbite: feliceatestaccio.com
Address: Via Mastro Giorgio 29, 00153 Roma
La Matriciana, Esquilino
Ideal for Rome’s, and therefore the world’s, finest amatriciana…
A traditional trattoria close to chic Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina, La Matriciana (the historic spelling reflects the restaurant’s 1870 origins) strikes that perfect balance between informal, paper-tablecloth charm and gently refined Roman cooking. It’s a match made in heaven; this historic establishment has been perfecting its craft for over 150 years, and it shows in every dish that leaves the kitchen. It’s a Roman institution, make no mistake.
The restaurant’s namesake pasta all’amatriciana is, naturally, the star of the show – a tangle of perfectly al dente bucatini in a rich sauce of crisp hand-cut guanciale and slow simmered San Marzano tomatoes. A comically large, serve-yourself silver gravy boat of pecorino is placed on your table with some ceremony, sealing the deal. It’s absurdly good – the best bowl of pasta we’ve had anywhere in the city. Or, perhaps, the world…
Don’t take those words too close to heart and enter with a myopic vision for the ama’, mind. It would be wrong to overlook the other Roman classics here, like their excellent saltimbocca alla romana or the seasonal artichokes, prepared either ‘alla romana’ (braised with herbs) or ‘alla giudia’ (crispy fried in the Jewish style). You could order both, you know, The wine list, featuring around 600 labels, is a cut above the usual trattoria standard.
Reservations are recommended for dinner (you can usually snag a table on the same day, if you’re willing to eat post 10pm), though less essential for lunch. Tables spill onto the pavement in summer, offering prime people-watching opportunities in this elegant corner of Rome.
Prices are a little above what you’d normally pay (the headlining dish is €18) but entirely reasonable given both the location and the quality – this is how Roman cuisine should be. Word of warning: there’s another restaurant of a similar name – La Matriciana ai Consoli – down in Don Bosco. It could well be delicious, but it’s not what you’re looking for.
Please be aware that La Matriciana is closed on Saturdays.
Website: lamatriciana.it
Address: Via del Viminale, 44, 00184 Roma RM, Italy
L’Osteria della Trippa, Trastevere
Ideal for the city’s signature offal, done perfectly…
The food of Rome is rooted in the so-called quinto quarto (the fifth quarter), which celebrates the ‘less noble’ parts remaining from the animal slaughter. One of the best places to sample this side of the cuisine is at L’Osteria della Trippa, across the river in hip Trastevere.
Despite its name suggesting a singular focus on tripe, this modern osteria offers much more than only Rome’s famous offal dishes (though those are indeed exceptional). Open since 2019, here chef Alessandra Ruggeri has created a menu that pays homage to Roman traditions while adding contemporary flourishes that feel natural rather than forced.
The house specialty trippa alla romana is indeed unmissable – strips of tripe braised until tender in a rich tomato sauce with pecorino and mint – as is the fried tripe (there’s a recipe on their website, by the way!) but don’t overlook other seasonal standouts like the fava bean puree with a knot of braised wild chicory, which is just gorgeous, or the veal sweetbreads served over aubergines, which were a special delivered only verbally.
The wine list is particularly strong on natural and biodynamic options from small Italian producers, with plenty of exciting options by the glass for around the €5 euro mark. It came as no surprise to anyone familiar with Ruggeri’s generous cooking and hospitality that Michelin awarded L’Osteria della Trippa a Bib Gourmand within a year of its opening.
Closed on Tuesdays.
Website: losteriadellatrippa.it
Address: Via Goffredo Mameli, 15/16, 00153 Roma RM, Italy
Santo Palato, Appio-Latino
Ideal for modern Roman soul food…
Such is the ever burgeoning reputation of chef Sarah Cicolini, that she really could be cooking anywhere. The fact she chose this modest space in Rome’s southeastern residential Appio-Latino quarter to serve her elevated trattoria fare speaks volumes about her desire first and foremost for flavour over frippery.
Her carbonara at Santo Palato has a cult following, sure, but the real draws are dishes like the delicate trippa alla romana and wagyu heart tartare that show off her refined fine-dining tekkers while respecting Roman traditions. No wonder Stanley Tucci was in awe of the place when he visited for his Searching For Italy series recently. To finish, the maritozzo with grano arso flour is unmissable.
Website: santopalatoroma.it
Address: Piazza Tarquinia, 4 a/b, 00183 Roma RM, Italy
Hosteria Grappolo d’Oro, Campo de’ Fiori
Ideal for a superb value set menu of Roman classics near the Pantheon…
If you’re only in Rome for a whistle-stop tour and you’re keen to try as much of the cucina romana as you can possibly fit in, then Hosteria Grappolo d’Oro is a no brainer.
Moments from Campo de’ Fiori, this is that rare find – a centrally-located restaurant that maintains high standards despite the tourist crowds. The exposed wooden beams and warm service create the perfect setting for textbook versions of Roman classics. Their five-course Roman tasting menu is a steal at €34, and the wine list features excellent bottles from Lazio and beyond at fair markups.
That menu starts with a refined trio of traditional antipasti, presented tastefully but tasting robust and fully flavoured (the puck of panzanella is particularly good). Then, it’s onto pasta, and here you’ve a choice of the holy Roman trinity (sorry alla gricia, you don’t make the cut). Go for tonnarelli cacio e pepe, which is a particularly decadent rendition, heavy on the pecorino emulsion and even heavier on the black pepper. Just as it should be.
The procession continues with oven roasted lamb or cod in tomato sauce and ends, of course, with a a perfectly proportioned tiramisu – it’s the real deal. What a fantastic, ridiculously cheap meal, right in the heart of Rome. With tables able to be reserved as late as 11pm, it’s perfect for a late night bite, too.
Open every day for lunch dinner, except Wednesdays, when it’s only open for dinner service.
Website: hosteriagrappolo.it
Address: Piazza della Cancelleria 80, 00186 Roma
Trattoria Da Enzo al 29, Trastevere
Ideal for outdoor dining and people watching in Trastevere…
This tiny Trastevere spot draws crowds for good reason – the Roman classics are done faithfully, and the vibe is always just the ride side of raucous.
Enzo’s outdoor tables on the adjacent cobblestone street are prime real estate, especially during summer evenings. While you wait for one (and you will wait), they’ll serve you beer from plastic glasses and, if you’re lucky, a few snacks.
Once seated, it’s the usual (we say that with enthusiasm, rather than a sense of weariness) fritti, puntarelle, artichokes, pastas and sweet treats. From the latter section of the menu, their Nutella-dotted tiramisu has a cult following. Such a following, in fact, that on any given night of the week it’s sensible to pitch up at least an hour before opening time (6:30pm), to get a place in the queue to nab yourself a table for that first round of service. If not, you’ll be watching a whole round of diners eat before you (in every sense of the word), which can be a little demoralising.
Trattoria Da Enzo al 29 is closed on Sundays.
Website: daenzoal29.com
Address: Via dei Vascellari 29, 00153 Roma
Allegrío, Via Veneto
Ideal for modern Italian fine dining and the puffiest of pizza…
In a city devoted to tradition, Allegrío dares to be different. Chef Gianni Di Gregorío’s contemporary takes on Italian classics have earned both critical acclaim and a devoted following among Rome’s culinary cognoscenti (as well as a little criticism from the purists, it should be said). The restaurant’s opulent and enjoyably camp design – all massive sun sculptures, every shade of gold and plenty of crushed velvet – provides a fitting backdrop for plates that are as visually striking as they are delicious.
In a city so devoted to tradition, Allegrío brings a welcome splash of contemporary flair to Via Veneto. Opened in 2023 and already ranked among Italy’s Top 50 pizzerias, this 150-seat restaurant delivers drama in spades.
The space is divided into four distinct dining rooms, each with its own personality: Joyful (tropical warmth), Lucky (gold and red velvet), In Love (adorned with 500 Capodimonte porcelain roses), and Intrepid (wild, exotic colors). It’s opulent and enjoyably theatrical in a very Roman sort of way, setting the stage for a dining experience far removed from the trattorias and osterias further south into town.
While the restaurant offers refined Italian cuisine in the form of a handful of tasting menus (the full Dolce Vita experience is priced at €95 for eight courses with four wines), it’s Allegrio’s pizza program that’s earned the most accolades. Helmed by Peppe Aiello and Ivano Veccia, the Neapolitan-style pizzas deliver perfectly balanced, extravagantly puffed crusts giving way to a pillowy interior. The Diavola, featuring a blend of seven different peppers, house nduja and shocking pink ricotta, shows their mastery of simple flavours with just a touch of the playful.
On the restaurant side, Executive Chef Daniele Creti offers seasonal menus that respect tradition while embracing innovation. Their signature ‘La Carbonara My Way’ (€45 for two), prepared tableside and finished with 24k gold, epitomises the restaurant’s balance of classic technique and contemporary showmanship. The wine list, curated by sommelier Davide Gelormini, is appropriately extensive for a restaurant of this confidence and calibre.
Open daily for lunch and dinner until 12:30am (Sundays from 10am).
Website: allegrio.it
Address: Via Vittorio Veneto 114, 00197 Roma
Salumeria Roscioli, Campo de’ Fiori
Ideal for impressing your date with the finest ingredients in town…
More than a restaurant, Salumeria Roscioli is a temple to exceptional ingredients. The counter heaves with pristine cheeses and salumi, while the cellar holds nearly 3,000 wines.
Yes, everyone orders the carbonara and cacio e pepe (can’t keep saying ‘when in Rome’, can we?), and they’re undeniably excellent. But the real move here is to start with their burrata, all splayed out and topped with clusters of semi-dried, intensely flavoured tomatoes, then shift on to a little premium charcuterie and something from their daily seafood selection. The pesce bianco del giorno (fish of the day served with pine nut cream and seasonal greens) is always a winner.
Avoid the basement tables if possible – things get a little dingy down there. Instead, book well ahead and be specific about wanting a ground floor or counter seat. It’s where the action is.
Website: salumeriaroscioli.com
Address: Via dei Giubbonari 21, 00186 Roma
Trattoria Trecca, Ostiense
Ideal for offal lovers and natural wine enthusiasts…
We came here on a recommendation from Osip’s Merlin Labron-Johnson, and we’re so glad we did. Trattoria Trecca has quietly become one of Rome’s best spots for offal since opening just four years ago in this out of the way spot down in Ostiense, a few minutes from the San Paolo metro stop.
It’s a handsome room to sink into. Natural light pours in through the huge windows that make up Trecca’s facade, reflecting off the brown and white chessboard tiles and marble topped dining tables that set the scene. Both are easily wipeable, and this is a place you want to roll your sleeves up and get messy in. Their regaje di pollo e patate (chicken giblets with potatoes) makes the ol’ quinto quarto accessible even to skeptics – it’s tender, aromatic with herbs, and served sizzling in a skillet alongside impossibly crisp potatoes.
While their Roman pasta classics are solid, you’re here for the offal and their always-excellent daily specials. If it’s on the menu, order the pajata (suckling veal intestines) skewers, which arrive blistered and burnished from the grill in a pool of good quality olive oil. They’re superb.
The wine list focuses on natural producers but isn’t dogmatic about it – just funky, drinkable drops that just seem to pair so perfectly with this kind of food.
Website: trecca.superbexperience.com
Address: Via Alessandro Severo, 220, 00145 Roma RM, Italy
Cesare al Casaletto, Gianicolense
Ideal for serious wine at fair prices and fritti that will wow you…
Take tram 8 from Centro Storico’s Via Argentina to its final stop right in the heart of suburban Gianicolense for some of Rome’s finest fritti (fried starters), precisely cooked pasta and other trattoria standards, all done to a commendably high standard at Cesare al Casaletto. Their polpette di bollito (meat croquettes in basil sauce) should open every meal here, ideally alongside impossibly light fried fish which is served in a cone that spills out all over the plate.
Follow it with a bowl of gnocchi fritti con cacio e pepe (fried gnocchi with pecorino and black pepper sauce), which may sound like overkill but tastes like genius, and is a welcome, very minor diversion from the classic spaghetti or rigatoni. The wine list is agreeably unique for a trattoria, with small producers and reasonable markups. Book ahead for their shaded patio in summer.
Website: trattoriadacesare.it
Address: Via del Casaletto 45, 00151 Roma
Seu Pizza Illuminati, Trastevere
Ideal for Rome’s most innovative pizza, date nights, design lovers
The minute you walk into Seu Pizza Illuminati, you know this isn’t your typical Roman pizzeria. Perhaps you already guessed that from the name, quite frankly…
The Copenhagen-meets-Trastevere design sets the stage for Pier Daniele Seu’s boundary-pushing pizzas, which are regularly named some of the best in Italy by the tastemakers in recent years.
Keeping both purists and pioneers happy, the menu smartly divides between old school classics and Seu’s more inventive creations, with the pizzas straddling Roman and Neapolitan pizza traditions (with a little New Haven thrown in for good measure) to arrive at a pizza that’s uniquely Seu; crisp and fluffy, generous but refined.
If you’re feeling adventurous, try the octopus and cherry pizza which inexplicably works, and finish with a strawberry and rhubarb ‘dessert pizza’ which, erm, inexplicably also works.
As if that wasn’t risky enough, a six course tasting menu is also available for €45. Dishes are of the chef’s choosing.
Website: seupizza.com
Address: Via Angelo Bargoni, 10 – 18, 00153 Roma RM, Italy
Nonna Betta, Jewish Ghetto
Ideal for the city’s finest Roman-Jewish cuisine and a historic atmosphere…
In the heart of Rome’s Jewish Ghetto, Nonna Betta serves some of the most straightforward, downright delicious versions of Roman ‘cucina kosher’ classics that you’ll find in the city.
Their carciofi alla giudia (Jewish-style artichokes) are consistently perfect – crispy, meaty, and never greasy. The beef-stuffed agnolotti shows how Roman-Jewish cuisine extends beyond just fried snacks into something all the more wholesome. The dining room, with its vintage photos, huge murals and wrought-iron details, adds to the experience without feeling touristy. There are plenty of intimate nooks and crannies to get lost in on those more blustery Rome days, but if the sun’s out, Nonna Betta has plenty of outdoor seating in the connecting square.
Nonna Betta is open for lunch and dinner every day.
Address: Via del Portico d’Ottavia, 16, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
La Pergola, Monte Mario
Ideal for Rome’s finest fine dining…
Inside Rome Cavalieri, a Waldorf Astroia Hotel, Rome’s only three-Michelin-starred restaurant earns its reputation through precision rather than pretension. Chef Heinz Beck’s German exactitude meets Roman ingredients in dishes that wow – properly wow – without showing off. After 30 years of cooking here, the food still feels fresh and alive – a remarkable achievement, quite frankly.
The dining room has recently had a refurb, and is now rendered in striking mauves and coppers. The wine cellar is legendary – let sommelier Marco Reitano guide you through it. Yes, it’s expensive (the 10 course tasting menu is priced at €350), but the level of cooking, service, and the stunning view over Rome from the terrace justifies the splurge for a special occasion.
Website: romecavalieri.com
Address: Via Alberto Cadlolo, 101, 00136 Roma RM, Italy
Capo Boi, Parioli
Ideal for Rome’s finest seafood…
Located in affluent Parioli and serving squeaky fresh, pristine seafood, Capo Boi could be stuffy but isn’t. Instead, dining here feels like being at a sophisticated friend’s dinner party – just one who happens to have access to Rome’s best seafood, and chooses to show it off in a big, icy display at the entrance. Hey, this friend sounds like an absolute blast!
Anyway, the crisp Sardinian flatbread pane carasau topped with baby octopus and shavings of bottarga sets the tone for the meal – a heady, oceanic bite that’s both light and eminently satisfying. Follow it with a whole turbot to share, which arrives blistered from the grill, still on the bone and ready for picking over. The restaurant’s starched white tablecloths don’t stand a chance.
Come with a group to justify ordering the impressive crudo platter, the sharing braised whole octopus, and multiple pasta courses – the paccheri with grouper and asparagus is particularly good.
Website: ristorantecapoboi.it
Address: Via Arno, 80, 00198 Roma RM, Italy
Piatto Romano, Testaccio
Ideal for quinto quarto classics in the heart of Testaccio…
Don’t let the pared back dining room at Piatto Romano fool you – this Testaccio spot close to the Tiber serves some of Rome’s most carefully prepared classics. Their seafood dishes shine unexpectedly bright for an inland trattoria – try the stir fried lamb’s lungs and heart, served with sweet onions, for a taste of a long forgotten Roman classic. Warming to a theme, the horse meat coppiette (essentially jerky), which pairs so well with a cold Peroni.
The Thursday gnocchi and Friday fish specials follow Roman tradition, but it’s their pajata (milk-fed veal intestines, here served with rigatoni) that draws the crowds every day of the week (except Sundays, when the place is closed). Come hungry – portions are generous, even by the city’s usual hearty standards.
Website: piattoromano.com
Address: Via Giovanni Battista Bodoni, 62, 00153 Roma RM, Italy
Retrobottega, Piazza Navona
Ideal for foraged food as theatre…
We’ve eaten a lot of trattoria classics by now, which is great, but sometimes a little innovation and experimentation is needed in a city so wedded to tradition. Enter Retrobottega…
This moody spot serves boundary-pushing dishes that still respect Roman ingredients. Chefs Giuseppe Lo Iudice and Alessandro Miocchi often forage for ingredients in the surrounding Lazio countryside themselves, and that dedication to provenance shows on the plate in dishes like broccoli tortellini with wild marjoram, and slow braised beef cheeks with barbecue carrots and hazelnut.
Though both of those dishes are available on the a la carte to be enjoyed at the large, central communal table, the €75 tasting menu is the way to go here – it features off-menu classics and plenty of extra innovation, all served at an intimate six-seat counter. Recent dishes included a katsu sando of escarole, caciocchiato cheese and umeboshi, and a sunflower and yellow courgette risotto.
The natural wine list is exceptional, focused on small producers and with plenty available of drops by the glass for as little as €6. Book well ahead – the intimate space fills up quickly.
Website: retro-bottega.com
Address: Via d’Ascanio, 26A, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
Otaleg, Trastevere
Ideal for Rome’s finest artisanal gelato…
We end, naturally, with something sweet. Not technically a restaurant, we know, but in a city swimming in gelaterias, Otaleg (that’s ‘gelato’ spelled backwards, in case you hadn’t noticed) stands head and shoulders above the competition. Located between Piazza San Cosimato and Piazza San Calisto in Trastevere, this artisanal gelato shop showcases the extraordinary talent of Marco Radicioni, an alumnus of Rome’s gelato maestro Claudio Torcè.
The shop’s name mirrors its inverted design concept – the gelato laboratory takes centre stage in the front, rather than being hidden away in the back. Here, you can watch Radicioni work his magic with a stunning vertical Cattabriga machine, turning premium ingredients like Valrhona chocolate and Madagascar-Bourbon vanilla beans into some of the city’s most compelling frozen treats.
The pistachio is, quite simply, transcendent – rich, nutty, and impossibly smooth. Pair it with their fior di latte, which comes with an inspired grapefruit marmalade twist. The seasonal fruit flavors change regularly, making repeat visits essential, while more adventurous options like gorgonzola showcase Radicioni’s creative flair.
Though the Trastevere outpost is smaller than the original Portuense location, every scoop is made fresh on site, maintaining the exceptional quality that’s made Otaleg a destination for serious gelato aficionados. Take your cone for a stroll through Trastevere’s cobbled streets – it’s the perfect way to end a meal after eating in one of the neighborhood’s trattorias.
Open daily from noon until midnight.
Website: otaleg.com
Address: Via di S. Cosimato, 14a, 00153 Roma RM, Italy
Phew, we need a lie down…