Rising from the Somerset Levels mysteriously, the town of Glastonbury defies easy categorisation. While the world-renowned Glastonbury Festival draws 200,000 visitors to Worthy Farm each June, transforming nearby Pilton into a temporary city of music and arts, the town itself is decidedly more complex: a place where 7th-century abbey stones share space with artisanal incense makers, and where tea merchants dabble in tarot reading between serving Earl Grey, all year round.
The town embraces its peculiarities with neither irony nor apology. Druids in ceremonial garb browse rare book collections, while meditation bells punctuate conversations in centuries-old pubs, where local Lady of the Lake ales flow freely. Time bends here – ancient ley lines pulse beneath streets where modern mystics practise their craft, and Arthurian legends remain woven into the fabric of daily life.
A weekend in Glastonbury provides enough time to grasp the essence of this remarkable place, though you could spend months exploring its layers. You might, of course, end up bending time and space itself, as you sit propped against the Market Cross, realising that success lies in selective immersion rather than attempting to catalogue every curiosity that Glastonbury has to offer.
Day 1: Sacred Sites & High Street Spirits
Morning: Tor Awakening
Begin at Glastonbury Tor before dawn. The walk from the town centre to the base takes roughly 25 minutes along Well House Lane, and the 158-metre ascent rewards early risers with an unmatched spectacle: first light breaking over the Somerset Levels and Moors, illuminating the landscape that was once a vast marsh surrounding this legendary isle of Avalon. St Michael’s Tower, crowning the summit, casts long shadows across the hillside as the sun climbs.
After descending and walking the mile back to town, revive yourself at Coffee Zero on the High Street, where locally roasted coffee and homemade cakes offer restoration after the climb. Those with heartier appetites should feast on the ‘Excalibur’ English breakfast, which is a quality fry-up if ever there was one. The café’s large frontage window provides an ideal vantage point for observing the town’s gradual awakening – a parade of characters that would seem contrived in fiction.
Midday: Abbey & Arthurian Tales
Glastonbury Abbey demands unhurried exploration. These ruins once marked England’s wealthiest monastery, their remaining walls echoing with tales of Joseph of Arimathea, the Holy Grail, and the purported tomb of Arthur and Guinevere. Join a guided tour to understand the complex’s historical significance, then find solitude in the meticulously maintained herb garden, where mediaeval varieties still flourish.
For lunch, visit Knight’s Fish & Chips. Operating since 1909, it’s among Britain’s oldest fish and chip establishments. Named as Restaurant of the Year at the 2024 National Fish & Chip Awards, the kitchen’s dedication to traditional methods – fresh-cut potatoes, fish delivered daily, batter made to a century-old recipe – has earned it a reputation that extends far beyond Somerset.
Afternoon: Living The High (Street) Life
Glastonbury’s main thoroughfare presents a welcome alternative to Britain’s homogenised shopping districts where independent merchants occupy mediaeval shopfronts. As you stroll down the street you’re greeted by an eclectic collection of weird and wonderful shops offering everything from hand-forged silver to small-batch botanical incense. In some shops you’ll even find crystal balls and artefacts from all over the world with spiritual and religious significance, supporting the pagan way of life.
Don’t miss The Tribunal, a 15th-century merchant’s house, now houses both the Tourist Information Centre and Lake Village Museum, documenting the area’s ancient lake-dwelling communities.
Visit Chalice Well Gardens in the late afternoon. The iron-rich spring has drawn pilgrims for centuries, its waters staining the stones red. The terraced gardens provide spaces for contemplation, particularly in the yew-shaded upper reaches.
Evening: After Dark
As darkness approaches, explore the Victorian-era pump house that contains the White Spring. This underground chamber, illuminated by candlelight, offers a striking counterpoint to Chalice Well’s sunlit gardens. Check opening times in advance, as they vary seasonally.
Dine at The Rifleman’s Arms, where good burgers and other pub grub classics are efficiently delivered and reasonably priced. The cider selection presents the county’s finest artisanal offerings, and the building’s medieval bones – exposed beams, worn stone – create an atmospheric setting without falling into pub cliché.
Read: Is it genuinely possible to live ‘off-grid’ in the UK?
Day 2: Ancient Waters & Modern Mysteries
Morning: Lake Village Legacy
Start your day at the Hundred Monkeys Café (open from 9am), which showcases the region’s organic producers, with eggs from nearby Sourdown Farm, sausages from Baltonsborough, and other reassuringly location-specific sourcing, too.
After that, take a short drive to nearby Meare, where an Iron Age settlement once thrived on these wetlands. While the ancient village lies beneath modern farmland, the 14th-century Meare Fish House stands as testament to the area’s rich aquatic heritage. Whilst there are a couple of decent hotels in Meare if you’re keen to extend your stay here beyond just a morning, it’s only a 10-minute drive back to Glastonbury, making it an ideal half-day excursion.
Midday: Sacred Spaces
Return for the Saturday farmers’ market if timing allows, or proceed to the Goddess Temple – the first such sanctuary to receive legal recognition as a place of worship in Britain since the Reformation. The temple’s design and ceremonies honour feminine spirituality, with knowledgeable practitioners available for discussion.
Enjoy a pitstop (or indeed, a light lunch) at the wonderfully quaint Abbey Tea Rooms, back on the Magdalene Street. On the menu, there’s something to satisfy all appetites, from cakes and snacks to heartier, homecooked lunches. You could even stick around for afternoon tea, if the mood takes you in that direction.
Afternoon: Esoteric Explorations
Alternatively, delve into Glastonbury’s metaphysical marketplace along Silver Street and the High Street. The Crystal Man, established in 1990, displays museum-quality mineral specimens alongside more modest treasures. Next door, Star Child produces small-batch incense using traditional methods and locally foraged ingredients.
The Library of Avalon, hidden within the Glastonbury Experience Courtyard, houses an extraordinary collection of esoteric texts, some dating to the 1500s. The librarians possess encyclopaedic knowledge of local lore and occult history.
Complete your afternoon at the Somerset Rural Life Museum. Housed in a 14th-century abbey barn, the museum contextualises the region’s agricultural heritage from prehistory to present. The barn’s mediaeval roof structure ranks among the finest examples of its kind in southern England.
Evening: Final Revelations
Join a ghost walk (April through October) for a two-hour journey through Glastonbury’s shadowed corners. These tours blend archaeological evidence with local legend, creating a compelling narrative of the town’s evolution from mediaeval pilgrimage site to modern spiritual centre.
Then, as a fitting, foodie finale, make sure to reserve well ahead for dinner at the Michelin-recognised Queen of Cups. Housed in a 17th-century coaching inn, the restaurant presents modern Middle Eastern cuisine filtered through a distinctly Somerset lens. Executive Chef Ayesha Kalaji sources meat from the neighbouring butcher, vegetables from regenerative farms within five miles, and seafood from Brixham’s day boats.
The Queen’s Feast – a chef’s selection requiring full table participation – best demonstrates the kitchen’s capabilities. Signature dishes include laverbread falafel with sumac and lime-dressed fennel, and chalk stream trout wrapped in brik pastry with green shatta and dill labneh. Do not miss out on desserts, which are spectacular; a recent jasmine and pistachio panna cotta was one of the finest desserts we’ve ever eaten, genuinely. The drink list champions Somerset’s craft distillers and small-scale wine producers committed to organic practices.
Conclude your second day at the King Arthur, where an extensive gin collection focuses on local distilleries. The garden offers views of the illuminated abbey ruins, while weekend evenings often feature musicians in the back room, their repertoire ranging from traditional folk to experimental psychedelia.
The Bottom Line
A weekend in Glastonbury merely introduces this layered settlement, where ancient mysteries intertwine with contemporary spirituality. The town rewards open-minded exploration, offering experiences that resonate long after departure.
Consider extending your Somerset journey with visits to Wells Cathedral or the Stanton Drew stone circles. The surrounding Levels offer exceptional walking routes, particularly around Shapwick Heath National Nature Reserve, where wildlife thrives in the carefully managed wetlands.
And if Somerset has well and truly made its mark by now, then continue into Bath for the weekend, one of the UK’s most gorgeous cities.
