Steaming bowls of pho are everywhere in Hanoi. That’s no exaggeration; you will genuinely see the steam rising off a bowl as you move with the traffic on your Honda Wave, vapours competing with exhaust fumes, the two intermingling for a smell that’s unmistakably Hanoian.
All walks of life hunch over a bowl here. On stools, at the side of the road, in shophouses, or simply lent against their bike or a tree, enjoying noodles – your businessman, school kid, xe om driver, teacher and health worker all just one wrong slurp away from a splattered shirt. There’s something democratising, levelling, about pulling a slippery tangle of noodles up to your lips, make no mistake…
The pho in Hanoi, where it all started, differs from its Southern sister somewhat. The Saigon style sees the bowls heaped with herbs, including Thai basil and sprouts, its bolder broth punctuated with a pronounced sweetness that’s enhanced further by sliced red onion. The northern version, on the other hand, is low on embellishment and frippery, proudly austere and distinctly savoury – not sweet – and all the more delicious for it, we think. Even coriander sprigs or bean sprouts will be viewed with suspicion, a Hanoi pho usually adorned only with slices of the green part of a spring onion.
Diners customise their pho to taste. A measured dose of lime enlivens the broth. The pickled garlic vinegar brings sweetness and piquancy. Fresh slices of red chill give fruitiness and a sharp, pleasing heat, though don’t add too much; you’ll often see folk here dexterously poking out the seeds of the chilli into a tissue so they don’t overpower the broth with capsicum heat. You’d do well to follow suit.
A dash of homemade hot sauce is optional – many don’t, we do, often halfway through the bowl, to refresh and replenish, to make things feel brand new again.
However you enjoy your pho, enjoy it with quay – the only necessary accompaniment to pho – which is, in taste akin to a savoury doughnut, and, in appearance, a golden brown dog bone. It takes on the flavour of the soup perfectly, retaining its crunch whilst soaking up the broth. For some reason, the thought of this crispy quay, bathed in pho broth, is the first time we’ve genuinely started salivating whilst writing this. Maybe it’s some kind of Pavlov/dog bone thing…
…Anyway, since pho contains a fairly strict, concise set of ingredients — a deeply layered broth, a protein, be it quickly boiled beef or poached chicken, rice noodles and a handful of herbs and green onions, the dish’s success lies in the details; in the tenderness of the protein, the verve, depth and lightness of the broth, and the chef’s deft but delicate layering of the bowl.
We’ve only included the bowls where those details shine through with utter clarity. So, without further ado, wipe down your chopsticks, shine your spoon and dig into our roundup of where to find the best pho in Hanoi.
Where To Find The Best Pho Bo (Beef Noodle Soup) In Hanoi
Hanoi-style beef pho – phở bò – is the gorgeous, nourishing Vietnamese noodle soup of sliced beef and bone broth, the latter flavoured with star anise and cloves for a subtle, ever so slight hint of spice. Here’s where to find the best beef pho in Hanoi…
Pho Ly Quoc Su
Ideal for perhaps Hanoi’s best bowl of pho bo…
Area: Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter)
If you’re looking for the best pho in the Old Quarter, Hanoi, Vietnam…the world, then you’ve quite possibly found it. The wild popularity of Pho Ly Quoc Su (the one on actual Ly Quoc Su street – more of that in a minute) means that you’ll likely have to wait a while or – heaven forbid – share your table with other tourists for tucking in, but the exemplary bowl of pho bo on offer here is well worth the wait and/or the awkwardness of accidentally splashing your broth over your table companions. Those northern noodles are slippery things, no doubt about it.
Here the service is brusque and efficient, the beef always fresh and tender. The chefs (visible through a glass partition constantly ladling bowls of the good stuff) work quickly, meaning you won’t have to wait long for your soup once you’ve taken a seat.
Once you’ve settled in, ordering by numbers is easy, with menus boasting English translations placed under the glass surface of every table, visible to all. For a newcomer, the different types of beef pho can be a little bewildering, but really, there is one order that stands out above all others…
…Yep, we’re massive devotees of the tai gau version, which sees fatty, long-braised brisket and slices of raw beef sharing the bowl. Here, the brisket is thinly sliced and tender, with its mellow, yellow fat gently melting into the broth, causing those all-important globules to dapple the soup’s service.
That broth itself is on the lighter side, just a little cloudy (as it should be), and refreshing, savoury and obscenely moreish. The rice noodles are slippery and have the right bite, as in, not much bite at all. Add a little of Pho LQS’s homemade chilli sauce and a dash of the liquid from their pickled garlic, and luxuriate in an absolutely gold standard version of the national dish.
*Do be aware that there are many, many imitators across the city, operating under the same name and with the same standout orange facade. The only true Pho Ly Quoc Su in terms of sky high standards is found on – perhaps unsurprisingly – Ly Quoc Su street.*
Address: 10 P. Lý Quốc Sư, Hàng Trống, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Pho Gia Truyen Bat Dan
Ideal for the widely acknowledged number one beef pho on the planet…
Area: Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter)
You know all that stuff we just said about Pho Ly Quoc Su being the finest bowl of pho bo in the world? Park that, as Pho Gia Truyen on Bat Dan Street (just around the corner, in fact!) is perhaps even better.
The obvious move here is to try both versions, with the two streets only a five minute stroll apart. You won’t miss Pho Bat Dan (as most people call it), as the snaking queue of hungry locals stands testament to the quality of the bowls within this little family run shop. Service is cursory on a good day, and you’ll need to juggle a boiling hot bowl of soup while you jostle for a stool, but genuinely, honestly and with truth, it is worth it.
You’ll see the beef briskets hanging in the doorframe (there is no window here – the shophouse opens fully out onto the street), their hulking frames swaying enticingly on their hooks, their fat shimmering enticingly. There are only three options; tai, tai nam, or chin, which is rare beef, rare beef and braised flank, and braised brisket, respectively.
Our heart lies in the latter camp with the pho bo chin, all to get a taste of those swinging briskets. It’s a deeper, richer broth than Pho LQS, perhaps better suited to Hanoi’s surprisingly chilly winters, whilst the one at Ly Quoc Su is more of a summery affair. Anyway, enough of the now tired comparisons – both bowls are the finest versions of beef pho you’ll find anywhere in Hanoi. And, by rights then, the world. Get here early; they’re often sold out and shop shut up by midday.
Ideal Tip: If you want some dessert, head to Xoi Che Ba Thin (1 Bat Dan street) two minutes down the road and have some chè. Gorgeously sweet and syrupy, it’s refreshing, replenishing stuff.
Address: 49 P. Bát Đàn, Cửa Đông, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Pho Hang Trong
Ideal for a secret back alley pho…
Area: Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter)
Pho Hang Trong, or ‘back alley pho’ as we like to call it, is the kind of place that feels like a well-kept secret, even though it’s anything but. You’ll find this pho shop tucked away in the Old Quarter between a cafe and a souvenir shop, just where it belongs.
On our first visit, we were so confused as to where it was, an elderly gent approached us and simply asked “pho?” before ushering us down the dark alleyway between those two shops. Once you’re shrouded in darkness, head for the narrow flight of stairs which opens up into a family living room of Ms. Minh, and you’ll find Pho Hang Trong. It’s a belter.
This unassuming, tiny shrine to pho seats roughly 12 people. The walls are adorned with faded pictures of relatives. Take your shoes off and grab a seat. It’s only open for a select few hours a day and closes at around 8pm or when they’ve sold out, which is often much earlier. There’s only one thing on the menu, and all you’ve got to do as you enter is state the number of bowls you want. Simple.
It’s the kind of pho joint where locals and savvy travellers come together, all slurping in careful, quiet reverence. The broth is a masterclass in balance, simmered for hours to achieve a depth of flavour that can only come from years of perfecting the recipe. It’s rich and aromatic, with just the right amount of spice to keep things interesting. The noodles are perfectly cooked, with a satisfying chew that pairs beautifully with the tender slices of beef.
The decor is minimalistic, with low slung blue plastic tables and even closer-to-the-ground plastic stools. That’s okay; you can really get your face into the bowls, and your lovely white shirt is protected from the inevitable backsplash.
This isn’t a place you linger in after you’re done; luxuriate in that pho, sure, but then move on and let someone else have a go.
Address: 8 Hàng Trống, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội
Pho Vui
Ideal for a happy-go-lucky pho that stays open late…
Area: Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter)
Vui’ means joy or cheerful in Vietnamese, and this happy-go-lucky pho certainly does put a smile on our faces and a spring in our steps. The atmosphere at Pho Vui is lively, with the sounds of clinking bowls and animated conversation filling the air – the kind of place where you can lose yourself in the moment, savouring each spoonful of pho as the world goes by.
The merit of a good pho lives or dies on the quality of its broth, and the broth at Pho Vui is excellent, a real peppery little number that’s got plenty of unctuous mouthfeel from beef bones that have been cooked low and slow until they release their marrow.
Just around the corner from Hanoi’s rowdy Bia Hoi Corner and Ta Hien street, its main strip of backpacker bars, Pho Vui stays open until 1am, ready for revellers looking to soak up the beer and perhaps even wring out one more from their evening.
Address: 25 P. Hàng Giầy, Hàng Buồm, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Pho Thin
Ideal for a unique take on a classic…
Area: Hai Ba Trung District
Mr. Nguyen Trong Thin – the so-called ‘pho artisan’ – made this restaurant famous through a special pho technique that he perfected in the late 1970s, one which is now known as ‘pho tai lan’ all across Vietnam.
At Pho Thin on Lo Duc Street, that method sees beef quickly stir-fried with ginger, onions and garlic, before the contents of the wok are poured into a bowl of soup and noodles. As a result, the broth is slightly thicker and more cloudy than elsewhere, and humming with umami and wok hei in the process. Honselty, it looks (and tastes) quite close to an onion gravy. There’s a shit load of chives to freshen things up.
Like many of the best phos in Hanoi, you’ll see copycat shophouses all over the city; a quick search on Google reveals dozens of places with the name ‘Pho Thin’, many of which pale in comparison to the inaugural restaurant.
Interestingly, some are actually affiliated with the original Pho Thin. At these joints, the chef-in-place has been trained by Mr Thin, and the man himself will regularly, unexpectedly come to check that they are doing things right, franchise-style. One has even opened in Melbourne, and another in Indonesia. However, we’d definitely stick with the original Lo Duc outpost here; often imitated, never duplicated, and all that.
Do be warned; Pho Thin Lo Duc gets rammed; it’s not a spacious dining room, even during quieter times, and due to its popularity, there aren’t, well, quieter times. That said, if you’re looking to enjoy a pho thin in comfortable surroundings, a collaboration between the main man and luxury resort Vinpearl’s head chefs has led to Pho Thin Vinpearl – or ‘skyscraper Pho’ – at Vinpearl Luxury Landmark 81. While we can’t vouch for the pho here, having never tried it, it’s certainly an interesting proposition.
Address: 13 P. Lò Đúc, Ngô Thì Nhậm, Hai Bà Trưng, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Pho Suong
Ideal for the legendary Blue Shirt Pho…
Area: Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter)
Wander down Trung Yen, which is considered one of Hanoi’s most famous culinary alleys, and you’ll find Pho Suong. At the helm is Ms. Nguyen Tuyet Lan, a third generation cook continuing the family business of serving up properly satisfying, nourishing beef pho.
Pho is usually a family business in Vietnam, and the best of the best pho joints have – on the most part – been around for decades. In the case of Ms. Nguyen Tuyet Lan’s family, her father originally roamed the Old Quarter selling pho back in the 1930s. His operation was nicknamed ‘blue shirt Chinese pho’ because of the colour shirt he wore, helping Mr. Nguyen (or, Mr Blue Shirt) become well known throughout Hanoi.
In 1986, his children opened up Pho Suong using the recipe her father passed down, cementing his legacy in the process. Today, Pho Suong is still, undeniably, one of the best pho purveyors in Hanoi, famous for its light and gently sweet broth.
The family recipe sees beef bones simmered for 15 hours, with ginger and fish sauce intensifying the flavour. Interestingly, the cooks here – just as Mr. Blue Shirt did a century ago – forgo the usual cinnamon and star anise, resulting in a lighter broth that’s so refreshing on a particularly humid Hanoi day.
After you’ve finished your meal, stroll down Dinh Liet street (home to one of our favourite banh mi in Hanoi, incidentally) past the souvenir and art stores and walk your meal off with a loop around picture-perfect Hoan Kiem lake. Do as we do and get an ice cream for dessert from one of the many stalls lining the lake!
Address: 24B Ng. Trung Yên, Phố cổ Hà Nội, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, Vietnamn
Pho Suong Co Muoi
Ideal for one of the most attractive pho shops in the city…
Area: Hai Ba Trung District
The Pho Suong dynasty have since spread their wings further. Following on from the patriarch’s success, the Nguyen family have opened another pho shop in Mai Hac De, up in Hanoi’s Hai Ba Trung district. Indeed, about the success and subsequent ubiquity, the owner says – almost laments, to be honest – on Pho Suong Co Muoi’s Facebook page, that “the image of the blue-shirted Chinese street vendor carrying noodle soup probably became a part of the memories of every child of the capital”.
Nguyen Thi Muoi, who was one of the original siblings to open the first Pho Suong restaurant in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, runs operations here. She says that “pho is said to be the ‘business card’ of Vietnamese people, and Pho Suong Co Muoi has preserved the soul and symbol of the country’s cuisine to the fullest.” We couldn’t agree more.
We love this second branch of Pho Suong for its light and airy space and delicious quay. With wooden panelling and tables, a gorgeous tiled floor and light yellow walls, it’s one of the most attractive pho shops in the city. The pho bo sot vang (a riff on pho using a wine-spiked broth) is something of a speciality.
Address: 36B Mai Hắc Đế, Bùi Thị Xuân, Hai Bà Trưng, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Facebook: phosuongcomuoi
Spicy Pho Bay
Ideal for West Lake’s best pho bo…
Area: Tay Ho (West Lake)
It’s a truism for so many street food recommendations across the planet – that the ‘best’ pad Thai in Bangkok, the ‘best’ pizza in Naples, or the ‘best’ tacos el pastor in CDMX is just, well, the closest one to your house.
The one that, whilst perhaps not knowing your name, certainly knows your usual order, your favourite seat, and whether you’ve put on weight or not since your last visit.
Spicy Pho Bay, in Hanoi’s increasingly swanky West Lake, was our local pho shop for years, and it’s a darn good bowl if you’re up in this next of the woods, taking in the scenery.
Ignore the signage, which clearly depicts a stereotypical Italian chef (possibly off the Simpsons), chef’s kiss fingers and all. Instead, be drawn in by the huge vats of bubbling broth that seem to obstruct the doorway, pulling off the admirable feet of both enticing you in and blocking your entrance. Slalom through, settle in, savouring the aromas of star anise and charred ginger when you do, and gear up for a nourishing bowl of the good stuff.
Alongside the usual rundown of slowcooked, ultra fatty brisket, slices of rare steak, braised flank, and even our old friend ‘thin’, Spicy Pho Bay also do an excellent pho xao; that is, stirfried pho noodles – crisp and charred and singing of wok hei – with plenty of dark green leaves, slices of beef and a pleasingly gloopy gravy. Anoint it with the signature house chilli sauce and enjoy.
Address: 1a P. Đặng Thai Mai, Quảng An, Tây Hồ, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Pho Tue An
Ideal for a pho seasoned with community spirit…
Area: Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter)
While we haven’t had the chance to sample the broth at Pho Tue An yet, this modest establishment just off the western edge of Hoan Kiem Lake has caught our attention for a particularly heartwarming reason. Here, you’ll find more than just steaming bowls of pho – you’ll discover a beautiful tradition of community care through their ‘phở treo’ (suspended pho) system.
Similar to Naples’ centuries-old ‘caffè sospeso’ tradition, customers can pre-purchase bowls of pho for those who might not be able to afford a meal. A simple sign keeps track of these acts of anonymous kindness, counting the number of suspended bowls available to anyone in need. It’s a reminder that sometimes the best flavour in a bowl of pho isn’t the broth or the tender meat – it’s the warmth of human connection.
If you’re in the area and feeling generous, consider paying a bowl forward. After all, sharing food has always been at the heart of Vietnamese culture.
Address: 14b Bao Khanh Street, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
*Pho is traditionally a breakfast dish and pretty much all of the shops on this list open from early until sold out. Many won’t stay open much past lunch, which ends at around 2pm. A couple of the spots on our list of the best pho in Hanoi do stay open late into the night, though it’s always a little unpredictable in Hanoi. Always check Google’s opening hours, but do not put 100% faith in that information.
Every bowl on our list clocks in at between 50’000 and 100’000 VND (between £1.50 and £3). Regardless, all are absurdly good value for the skill, effort and heritage involved in making them.*
For something a little lighter, join us next as we check out Hanoi’s best beef pho. You won’t regret having another bowl!