Purists may baulk at the notion of a vegetable-based pho, but pho chay, the vegetarian version of the Vietnamese national dish, can be a deeply hearty, savoury affair. Dried wood ear mushrooms bringing plenty of umami, whilst ginger, spring onions, soy sauce, and spices add deeper layers and plenty of warmth.
Vegetarian pho, or pho chay, originated from the Buddhist cuisine of Vietnam, where monks adapted traditional meat-based pho by creating imitated beef, chicken, and vegetarian broths.
Influenced by Buddhist principles of ‘ahimsa’ or non-violence, pho chay avoids not only meat but also root vegetables and strong-smelling plants like onions and coriander. This results in a distinct version of pho that lacks the familiar aroma and flavour of traditional pho, but is still a delicious bowlful.
Here’s where to find some of the best pho chay in the city…
Pho Chay
Ideal for an unassuming yet exemplary vegetarian pho…
Area: Hai Ba Trung District
The restaurant, on the same strip as the original Pho Thin from earlier, doesn’t look like much from the outside. But then, not many pho shops do, exactly. Pho Chay is particularly unassuming, so narrow and branded in the same yellow-and-green as a famous local bank that we thought it was an ATM on our first visit.
Step over the threshold and pull up one of just four stools, and order a baby or big bowl. Whichever size you go for, this one is defined by the popular meat alternative seitan, which here does a fine job of masquerading as beef. Plenty of deep fried treats (tofu, slices of quay akin to croutons…that kind of thing) bring a much-needed sense of textural contrast. The salted lime drink here is as refreshing as it comes on a hot Hanoian day. Mmm, electrolytes…
Address: 168 P. Lò Đúc, Đống Mác, Hai Bà Trưng, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Pho Suong Co Muoi
Ideal for 100% vegan pho…
Area: Hai Ba Trung District
We’ve already spoken about Pho Suong’s legendary beef pho before on IDEAL. Well, they also do a great vegan beef pho, clearly stating that no animal has been used, which is reassuring in a country that sometimes plays a little loose with the whole ‘chay’ description.
Billing it as a bowl for everyone, the cooks here say that “if you’ve had enough of salty dishes, then the delicious and thick vegetarian pho is very suitable to cleanse your body between those daily meals of fish and meat”.
Again, perhaps the idea of a vegan diet hasn’t been totally taken onboard, but this Pho Suong’s pho chay is a satisfying thing whichever way you look at it.
Address: 1a P. Đặng Thai Mai, Quảng An, Tây Hồ, Hà Nội, Vietnam
For something decidedly meatier and also a little left of centre, Hanoi does great duck pho, too. You know what to do.
