First came the esoteric wine magazine. Then, the inaugural Lambs Conduit site. Next, the Marina O’Loughlin tweets so incessant you simply had to check out the restaurant, if the links to the Sportsman and that slipsole hadn’t already drawn you in. And then, for many, the pinnacle of the piece so far; Noble Rot Soho.
A restaurant steeped in political intrigue, having once been the site of the legendary Hungarian restaurant Gay Hussar – a notorious haunt for left-wing politicians such as Clement Atlee, Gordon Brown, and Tony Blair – the room here retains a few nooks, crannies and corners of intimacy, where deals could still be done and illicit affairs conducted.
The food has a sultry, sensual air to match. At the helm of Noble Rot Soho’s kitchen is Head Chef Alex Jackson, formerly of the acclaimed Sardine restaurant (now sadly closed) alongside Executive Chef Stephen Harris of the Sportsman.
Together, they have crafted a menu that pays homage to the French country cooking that Jackson is known for, while also incorporating subtle nods to the Hungarian culinary traditions of the Gay Hussar. Expect dishes like smoked eel Salade Lyonnaise, clams with Fino sherry, and the odd appearance of a goulash, on not just for posterity’s sake, but also for reasons of pleasure.
The highlight, though, without doubt, is the golden-hued roast chicken, morels and Vin Jaune sauce, served over pilaf rice. It’s outstanding.
As a wine-focused restaurant, Noble Rot Soho unsurprisingly boasts an extensive wine list that playfully dabbles in contemporary trends while remaining grounded in traditional winemaking regions and practices. Yep, you won’t find too many cloudy drops here.
For those keen to keep things temperate, the 33-page tome has a page devoted to by-the-glass offerings. But honestly, if you’re spending £80 on that luxurious roast chicken, it would be rude not to get a bottle in. On our last visit, we were steered towards an Arbois Pinot Noir from the Jura, where Vin Jaune also hails from. Needless to say, it paired beautifully.
Address: 2 Greek St, London W1D 4NB, United Kingdom
Website: noblerot.co.uk