No carbs before Marbs, hey? But how about some fresh-as-an-ocean-breeze seafood? That’s not going to affect that beach body you’ve long been sculpting, now is it?
Even if the finest lobster, hake, anchovies and the rest were highly calorific, it would be criminal not to order them when in Marbella or neighbouring Fuengirola. That’s because this much-loved, Brit-baiting corner of southern Spain boasts some of the best fish and shellfish on the planet, the city and wider Costa del Sol’s proximity to both the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean allowing local fishmongers and chefs to source a diverse range of fresh, high-quality seafood daily.
Indeed, it’s that diversity that makes the seafood scene in Marbella so special; the warm waters of the Mediterranean just perfect for nurturing a broad array of species, many of which are native only to this region in the world. On the other hand, the colder waters of the nearby Atlantic Ocean bringing home a richer variety of seafood.
Culturally, Spain, and particularly the Andalusian region where both Marbella and Fuengirola sit, has a long-standing tradition of cherishing squeaky fresh bits fresh out of the ocean. Andalusian cooking traditions focus on enhancing the natural flavours of the seafood, with the use of high-quality local olive oil, fresh herbs, and simple cooking methods like grilling, which helps retain the original taste of the pristine product. All of which is good news for the discerning diner visiting these shores…
Costa del Sol? Costa del Sole, more like! And whilst that joke certainly didn’t work, the following places certainly will, if you’re looking for the freshest, finest seafood in Marbella and Fuengirola. Here are our favourite restaurants serving the good stuff.
Marisquería Los Marinos José
We had to start here, at Fuengirola’s Los Marinos José, one of the Costa del Sol’s most revered restaurants and a temple to all things seafood. Sitting just seconds from the sea, and with a fleet of its own fishing boats and a dedicated buyer from local fish markets on the books, Los Marinos José has the kind of access to the freshest catch that most fish-focused establishments can only dream of.
On the plate, the product is treated with maximum respect, with freshly hooked octopus and sardines grilled sympathetically but with confidence, arriving blistered, burnished and tasting of themselves. A lick of salt and a drizzle of olive oil is all that’s needed to send them on their way.
Los Marinos José has stood on this stretch of the Costa del Sol for more than three decades and it’s easy to see why; this institution is without doubt one of Marbella’s best places to eat seafood.
Address: P.º Marítimo Rey de España, 161, 29640 Fuengirola, Málaga, Spain
Charolais
Another superb seafood restaurant in Fuengirola is Charolais (and its adjacent sister restaurant Charolais Tapas), where the good stuff is done right. In a sophisticated setting where wine bottles line the terracotta-bricked walls, it’s the tapas menu that seafood lovers are particularly drawn to.
Here, there’s a fine selection of reasonably priced, shellfish-led small plates, with clams in salsa verde, and battered, deep-fried squid and langoustine with a sweet and sour dressing particular highlights. A side of grilled vegetables wraps up a light and breezy dinner just beautifully.
Address: C. Larga, 14, 29640 Fuengirola, Málaga, Spain
Bar Altamirano
We’re heading back into Marbella proper now, away from the picturesque stretch of Costa del Sol resorts and into its old town, to Bar Altamirano, a stubbornly straightforward, no-frills taverna that the seemingly unstoppable development of the city seems determined to stamp out.
We’re so glad Bar Altamirano is still standing. It’s an absolute joy, with clay dishes of prawns pil pil arriving bubbling so furiously their irresistible juices, heady with garlic and a hint of chilli, splatter the paper white table cloths that they’re placed on. Take a hunk of crusty bread and dredge those juices, stat.
Appetite satiated, take a wander to the counter, where a display of ultra fresh fish and shellfish are laid gently over ice. If there’s red mullet (‘salmonete’ in Spanish) resting there, in season from May through August, make sure you order one – or several – for the grill; when fresh, there’s no better fish cooked this way, its skin tasting of fried chicken, its flesh of lobster. Exquisito.
Address: Pl. Altamirano, 3, 29601 Marbella, Málaga, Spain
Soleo Marbella
Because we love to sample all of life’s rich tapestry, we’re heading out of the old town and to the shoreside next, to Soleo. In a city often associated with a certain sense of gaudiness, central Marbella’s beachside restaurants aren’t always the most enticing; sky-high prices and uninspiring attempts at haute-cuisine seem to perennially stalk their menus.
Not so at Soleo, where things take a more humble, welcome turn. Sure, there are fusion (‘‘confusion, more like!’’, goes Greg Wallace) flourishes, with a Thai/Mediterranean lobster salad a little unconvincing.
But under the ‘Traditional Fishes’ section of the menu, there’s real joy to be found. Simply choose from a selection of four locally caught, wild fish – currently turbot, sea bass, sea bream and snapper – and have them grilled whole in the restaurant’s central josper oven. Enjoyed with the sands of Venus Beach between our toes and with a local Jerez sherry to finish, and there’s nowhere we’d rather be in the world…
Address: Av. Duque de Ahumada, s/n, 29602 Marbella, Málaga, Spain
La Milla
…Except, maybe, over at La Milla, which sits a thirty minute walk west on the neighbouring Playa Casablanca. A self-styled ‘chiringuito’ (a laid back, informal bar space), there are sofas for sprawling and stools for sidling, as well as plenty of tables in a light and airy open space, all with views of the Med.
The menu feels equally breezy, a seasonal, fish-led affair which leans heavily on tuna caught off the coasts of Barbate and Zahara de los Atunes in traditional almadraba nets. We’re particularly enamoured with the conserva de atún brasa here; a tuna steak that’s been preserved in good quality olive oil before seeing the grill. Served with tomatoes in several shades of red and yellow, it’s gorgeous. Pair that with a surprisingly suave and silky off-bitter red vermouth and you’ve got yourself a composed, elegant little lunch full of complexity.
If you’d forgotten that you were in flashy ol’ Marbs, a cigar menu will see you through until closing.
Lobito de Mar
We’re heading inland now, and making for somewhere fancy, to dine at Lobito de Mar, part of 3 Michelin-starred chef Dani Garcia’s growing stable of globally renowned restaurants.
Lobito de Mar, which sits pretty along Marbella’s so-called ‘Golden Mile’, is actually one of four across the world, with other outposts in La Finca resort on the Costa Blanca, Madrid and Doha. It’s at the Marbella brand that it feels like the vision has been most fully realised; of high quality local ingredients – the majority sourced from Andalusian markets – treated with just the right level of flair and finesse on a menu that pledges to keep ‘loyal to our roots’.
It’s a promise that pays off on the plate; a selection of small plates to begin promising baby hake from Marbella, breadcrumbed and delicately fried. Alongside, an Andulisian staple, the chilled almond soup ajo blanco, is adorned with sardines that have been caught – and smoked – locally. White anchovies from up the road in Málaga complete the holy trinity.
But the big draw here – the headliner, if you will – is the red tuna specials, the fish served in various raw ways, from carpaccio and tartare to a simple, gentle marinade of lemon and olive oil that works particularly well.
For those not keen on all things oceanic and edible (how on earth have you got this far down the article?), there’s a solid selection of meat-forward, umami-driven smoked rice dishes.
Pair all of these (or, of course, be guided by the skilled sommelier and mixologists) with one of Lobito’s signature cocktails – the David Jones, which features Brugal 1888 rum, top shelf mezcal and ginger beer is superb – and you’ve got yourself one of high Marbellenses societies most typical days in the sun. We think we might just stay here a while and nurse our cocktail… Adios!