Pho has a tangled history, and the facts about its origins are more murky than a bowl of the good stuff that’s had too much tương ớt added. Some say it was born of necessity – the French colonialists slaughtering cows for steak and such, and resourceful Vietnamese chefs making use of the leftover bones and scraps to glorious effect.
Others believe that it was simply an adaption of the French dish pot-au feu, which shares a certain phonetic similarity to ‘phở’. That supposition – a French one – has been largely debunked. There are others still who say that the term pho came from ‘pham’, which is the Vietnamese pronunciation of fen – the Chinese word for flat rice noodle.
Despite some disagreement about its origins, the most common consensus is that pho came from southeast of Hanoi (reportedly out of Nam Dinh Province, sixty miles from the capital) and eventually made its way all over Vietnam, with different regions putting their own spin on the soup.
There’s even been a pho festival this year, providing the opportunity for tourists and locals to get to know and enjoy the different flavours of pho that are associated with regions across the country. Vietnam is said to be preparing a dossier to be submitted to UNESCO to inscribe Vietnamese Pho with World Heritage status – the festival is in lead up to this.
Lesser known outside Vietnam is duck Pho.
Breaking away from tradition, duck pho has become popular in Hanoi recently. A speciality from the mountain regions in the Northeast of Vietnam, it’s bloody good on one of Hanoi’s surprisingly chilly winter evenings.
Don Duck
Ideal for Michelin-recommended duck pho…
Area: Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter)
If you’re looking for the best duck pho in Hanoi, the easiest and most accessible place to try a bowl is at Don Duck in the Old Quarter. Recommended by the Michelin guide, as the name suggests this restaurant specialises in all things duck. The owner Kiem is a lovely guy and will gladly explain the provenance of his ducks to you so we don’t have to. He – and his cooks – prepare this beautiful bird in all the ways you can imagine. We’re here for the duck pho, of course…
Don Duck’s pho has an unmistakable fattiness from the natural coverage of the duck. Warm spices give a subtle nuance to the aromatic broth. While this isn’t the cheapest pho in town, it’s an interesting and delicious one.
Since you’re here, order a bowl of spring rolls to start, the dipping sauce of which is made using their six-hour duck bone broth and more than 20 spices. It’s a complex thing, and totally worth an order.
Address: 29 P. Bát Đàn, Cửa Đông, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Facebook: @Don-Duck
Vit Quay Quan Lang:
Ideal for a provincial duck pho
Area: Ha Dong District
Vịt Quay Quán Lạng is a renowned restaurant on the outskirts of Hanoi city centre, celebrated for its delectable roast duck dishes. Originating from the Lang Son province in Northern Vietnam, the star of the menu is, of course, the eponymous roast duck (vit quay), which blesses their pho.
This dish combines the rich, savoury flavours of roasted duck with the aromatic and comforting qualities of pho to great effect. Clear and aromatic from a low and slow simmering of duck bones, herbs and spices, the broth itself is typically lighter than a beef pho but still rich in flavour.
While you’re here, try a bowl of pho chua (sour pho); a lesser-known but totally refreshing variation of pho that hails from the northern regions of Vietnam, particularly Lang Son. Unlike traditional pho, which typically emphasises savoury notes above all else, pho chua is known for its tart, tangy flavour profile. If you’ve had your fill of traditional pho, as we now have, consider this variation for a change.
Address: 164 P. Nguyễn Văn Lộc, P. Mộ Lao, Hà Đông, Hà Nội 12110, Vietnam
Facebook:@Vitquayquanlang
Let’s zoom out, and check out Hanoi’s broader street food scene next. Join us; you know you want to.
