This just in; Time Out has just named Naples as the world’s best city for food, in terms of both quality and affordability.
We couldn’t agree more. Fresh off the back of a trip to Città del Sole, and with a wallet untroubled but a waistline widened, it’s truly striking just how fresh, flavoursome and affordable the food is there.
It shouldn’t need saying but we’ll do so anyway for those at the back; Naples’s culinary scene isn’t only about pizza. Sure, it’s the home of the stuff and the city plays host to many, many of the best pizzerias on the planet, both traditional and groundbreaking, but there’s so much more to enjoy about Neapolitan cuisine, from deep-fried street food snacks all the way to intricate fine dining.
Yep, Naples has got it all, but in a city where every corner houses a woodfired oven or a display of cream-filled sweet treats, it can be hard to separate the good from the great. We’re here for only the greatest; here are the very best restaurants in Naples.
L’antica Pizzeria da Michele
Ideal for, quite simply, the best pizza in Naples…
Of course, of course, we’re still going to talk about pizza in our rundown of the best restaurants in Naples. Because this delicious, democratic dish – arguably the world’s favourite – is just so well represented in the city of its birth.
The best in Naples? For us, it’s also the most simple; the one served at L’antica Pizzeria da Michele. A pizzeria steeped in history, da Michele has been doing its thing in the heart of Forcella since 1870. Only two food items are served here; a Marinara or a Margherita. Both are absurdly good – light, fresh and digestible, and irregular enough to be spilling off the sides of the plate when they hit the table. Both were just €5.50 when we visited last month.
This unassuming spot has garnered global fame, even featuring in the film Eat Pray Love. Despite its global recognition, L’antica Pizzeria da Michele remains a favourite with locals just as much as it’s become something of a box ticking exercise for tourists.
Though queues stretch down the street from its 10:30am opening until it closes 12 hours later, there’s a ticketing system that offers some hope against the crowds. Simply collect yours and pitch up at the much-maligned but massively convenient bar opposite, Caffetteria Brasilena Aperol Spritz, which has a decent view of the digital queue number sign. It ticks along reassuringly fast. You can even eat your pizza at the bar to circumnavigate the queue, if you wish.
Open every day.
Website: anticapizzeriadamichele.co.uk
Address: Via Cesare Sersale, 1, 80139 Napoli NA, Italy
50 Kalò
Ideal for some seriously good dough…
50 Kalò, founded by the acclaimed pizzaiolo Ciro Salvo, has rapidly established itself as a cornerstone of Naples’ contemporary pizza scene, with Salvo one of the world’s most recognisable and acclaimed pizzaiolo.
Located in the bustling Mergellina district and overlooking an attractive roundabout, this pizzeria is celebrated for its scientific approach to dough-making, which has earned it a place in the prestigious 50 Top Pizza list, currently sitting at number 7 in the world.
The name 50 Kalò translates roughly to ‘good dough’ in Neapolitan slang, and Salvo, a third-generation pizza maker, is renowned for his meticulous attention to hydration levels in that dough, often reaching up to 70-80%. The result is an exceptionally light and airy crust. You’re going to hear the word ‘digestible’ a lot in this article, and the pizzas at 50 Kalò are most certainly that.
The menu at 50 Kalò features a blend of traditional and more innovative toppings, with a strong emphasis on high-quality, locally sourced ingredients. Signature pizzas include the Cosacca, which features a San Marzano tomato base and a liberal grating of Parmigiano Reggiano, a homage to an old Neapolitan recipe that’s been having something of a resurgence in recent years, and the Salsicce e Patate, a white pizza topped with piquant fennel sausage and small cubes of potato. No pizza here tops €10.
If a flight to Naples feels a little excessive just to get your hands on a €7 pizza, then you’ll be pleased to hear that since 2018 there has been a London branch of 50 Kalò. We’ve even included it on our list of the 22 two best pizzas in London. Do check it out sometime.
Website: 50kalo.it
Address: Piazza Sannazaro, 201/c, 80121 Napoli NA, Italy
Antica Pizza Fritta da Zia Esterina Sorbillo
Ideal for a version of pizza that predates pizza as we know it…
Next up, Antica Pizza Fritta da Zia Esterina Sorbillo is a tribute to the rich tradition of Neapolitan street food and, more specifically, the fried pizza, which is believed to have predated the world conquering woodfired kind.
Founded by Gino Sorbillo (a pizzaiolo with serious pedigree – more on that later) in honour of his Aunt Esterina, Antica Pizza Fritta da Zia Esterina Sorbillo specialises in the art of pizza fritta, producing deep fried pizzas in the heart of Naples’s historic centre that aren’t in the least bit oily.
The Ripieno is the headliner, make no mistake, an indulgent affair filled with ricotta, smoked provola cheese, cicoli (pork crackling), and tomato sauce, encapsulating the essence of traditional Neapolitan flavours. Be warned; you’ll want to let this one sit for a few minutes prior to tucking in, as the middle is like lava when straight from the fryer.
With huge queues and just a couple of high top tables outfront on the street, this one should be tackled in a grab and go fashion. No matter; there are plenty of walls to sit on nearby.
There is also a branch in Milan.
Instagram: @ziaesterinasorbillo1935
Address: Piazza Trieste e Trento, 53, 80132 Napoli NA, Italy
*Please note that Da Fernanda, probably Naples’s most cherished pizza fritta purveyor and a regular of celebrity jaunts food around the city, sadly closed in 2023 due to the death of Nonna Fernanda. Our thoughts remain with her family*.
1947 Pizza Fritta Napoli
Ideal for taking your time over your pizza fritta…
With our buccal mucosa scalded and stripped of its lining, it might feel like folly to go seeking out a second fried pizza. But we simply can’t resist (which is kind of what got us in this mess in the first place), so we’re heading to 1947 Pizza Fritta Napoli next.
Just around the corner from L’antica Pizzeria da Michele in Forcella, this restaurant, named after the year it was founded, has perfected the art of the ol’ pizza fritta, with a dough that’s expertly fried to achieve a crispy exterior while maintaining a soft, airy interior. It ends up tasting a little sweet – doughnut-like, even – but once this gives way to the gorgeous fillings, it all makes sense, that sweetness a wonderful contrast to the smoked provola cheese, speck and Pienello tomato that makes up our favourite order, the Sophia.
The good thing about 1947 Pizza Fritta when compared to our old friend Sorbillo from a few paragraphs previous is that there’s plenty of seating available here, both indoors and out. When you consider just how well pizza fritta goes with a cold glass of Peroni, it only feels right to order a few of both and take your time.
Website: 1947pizzafritta.it
Address: Via Pietro Colletta, 29/31, 80139 Napoli NA, Italy
La Locanda Gesù Vecchio
Ideal for exemplary versions of Neapolitan classics in a convivial dining room…
We’ve typed ‘pizza’ so many times already that our ‘z’ key is starting to stick, so we’re heading into the tangle alleyways that make up Spaccanapoli next for something a little different.
Just off the main thoroughfare, you’ll find La Locanda Gesù Vecchio, an absolute gem of a trattoria that serves up hearty, generous Neapolitan dishes without frippery or fanfare.
The dining experience is both simple and informal, with closely set tables that invite a convivial atmosphere. The ziti with Genovese ragu is an obvious highlight, and seemed to be ordered by just about every table when we visited, as is the aubergine parmigiana, which was just so much lighter than just about any version we’ve had in the UK.
Hopefully, that might help you save room for dessert – these guys do the sweet stuff very well. The pastiera, a traditional Neapolitan dessert made with a sweet shortcrust pastry filled with ricotta and accented with orange blossom water, is very good indeed.
The fact that the restaurant has just two sittings an evening, with all guests sitting down at the same time at either 7pm or 9:30pm, creates a lively, sociable atmosphere. The eminently drinkable house wine for €20 and skilfully made Negroni for €7 certainly helps things along. Watch for the theatrical way they collect bottles of wine for the tables.
The restaurant’s success has even led to the opening of another venue on the same street. That hasn’t made it any easier to snag a reservation, though recently La Locanda Gesù Vecchio has started taking reservations over email. There’s a dedicated gluten free menu, too – a source of pride for the restaurant.
Website: lalocandagesuvecchionapoli.it
Address: Via Giovanni Paladino, 26, 80138 Napoli NA, Italy
Address: Via Giovanni Paladino, 4-4/A, 80138 Napoli NA, Italy
Da Dora
Ideal for Naples’s best ‘old school’ seafood experience…
Naples isn’t all about red sauces and starchy anchors. Being a coastal town and a major port, there’s also some fine seafood to be found in the city. Da Dora, to our mind, is the premier seafood restaurant in Naples, a wonderfully old school place – all nautical decor and photos of famous guests on the wall – that’s simply impossible to resist.
The standout dish here is without doubt the linguine alla Dora. Generously stacked with lobster, mussels, and fat prawns with their head juices still intact, all bound together with just a whisper of fresh tomato sauce, it’s a showstopper, and just so so good.
There’s the local classic spaghetti alle vongole too, the briny clams pert and sweet, as well as crisp, salty fritto misto featuring, pleasingly, whole anchovies, and a selection of crudo, the kitchen showing their confidence in the freshly landed produce.
A bottle of tight, fruity Biancolella white wine from across the way in Ischia is all you need to see this spanking seafood selection on its way. Oh, and a bib. You’ll definitely need a bib here…
Website: ristorantedora.it
Address: Via Ferdinando Palasciano, 30, 80122 Napoli NA, Italy
La Notizia
Ideal for pioneering, influential pizza…
Forgive us for returning to pizza so soon, but this is Naples after all, and the pizza is so digestible that it’s quite possible to have several in a single day. We certainly have…
La Notizia, helmed by the renowned pizzaiolo Enzo Coccia, is one of the most influential pizzerias in the world, and more than worthy of a spot on our list of the best 22 restaurants in Naples.
Coccia, a third-generation pizza maker and one the pioneers of the concept of ‘slow pizza’ which emphasises the importance of long fermentation times for the dough, has transformed his pizzeria into a culinary pilgrimage of sorts for aspiring pizzaiolo, earning it the distinction of being the first pizzeria in the world to be in the Michelin Guide all the way back in 2010.
He has even written a seminal book, The Neapolitan Pizza, a Scientific Guide on Artisanal Pizza-Making, and teaches at the Pizza University on his days off. What a guy.
Located on Via Michelangelo da Caravaggio, La Notizia is split into two venues on the same stretch: La Notizia 53 and La Notizia 94, each offering a slightly different menu but maintaining the same sky-high standards, of pliable, light-as-you-like dough and organic, locally-sourced toppings.
The pizzeria is also known for its rigorous selection of ingredients, all sourced from local producers and Slow Food Presidia, ensuring the highest quality and sustainability. Pizzas here straddle the innovative with the ancient, with the Mastunicola, an ancient recipe with lard, pecorino cheese and basil, a highlight. The Cetara, topped with anchovies from the Amalfi Coast, yellow tomatoes, and oregano, is another perfectly poised pizza from a true master of his craft. No wonder he’s affectionately nicknamed ‘The Maestro’.
Website: pizzarialanotizia.com
Address: Via Michelangelo da Caravaggio, 53, 80126 Napoli NA, Italy
Address: Via Michelangelo da Caravaggio, 94, 80126 Napoli NA, Italy
Sorbillo
Ideal for quite comfortably the best pizza on Via Della Pizza…
From the same team behind the acclaimed and always popular pizza fritta joint from a few paragraphs previous, Sorbillo is another of Naples’s most revered pizzerias. Located on Via dei Tribunali, it’s a cornerstone of Naples’ pizza scene, with a history dating back to 1935.
Founded by Luigi Sorbillo, the pizzeria is now helmed by his grandson, Gino Sorbillo, who has become a culinary icon (and something of a divisive figure) in his own right. Gino’s approach respects tradition while pushing boundaries, such as his use of organic flour, a meticulous 30-hour dough fermentation process, and, more recently, his introduction of a pineapple pizza to his menu.
The eponymous Sorbillo sits on the city’s so-called Via Della Pizza, a strip with several superb pizzerias. But Sorbillo is on another level altogether. This one gets busy, so be prepared to share a table or counter with other guests.
Website: sorbillo.it
Address: Via dei Tribunali, 32, 80138 Napoli NA, Italy
10 Diego Vitagliano Pizzeria Bagnoli
Ideal for the tastemaker’s number one pizza in the world…
Down by the waterfront but still nominally in Naples’s historic centre sits 10 Diego Vitagliano Pizzeria, which for the previous two years has been named as the best pizzeria in the world by the prestigious 50 Top Pizza awards.
Actually one of three outposts in the city (with one in Pozzuoli and one in Bagnoli), the Santa Lucia branch is our favourite, with a modern, airy feel to the dining room and plenty of terrace seating for those warmer Naples days.
Chef Vitagliano is a rising star in the pizza world, with his pizzas distinguished by their light, airy crusts, achieved through a meticulous 36-hour fermentation process and the use of a blend of high-quality flours. Toppings can be as prosaic and traditional as you like, or can veer off into the contemporary and even experimental, if you so wish. For a taste of the latter, try the Marinara Sbagliata (the incorrect marinara), which features a San Marzano DOP marmalade and wild garlic pesto. It’s a joy. There’s even a pizza tasting menu, if you’re feeling particularly hungry.
That said, and perhaps surprisingly for a place that’s been recognised for serving the world’s best pizza, the take on traditional Neapolitan snacks are perhaps the best thing here, with the deep fried pasta balls oozing with whipped ricotta and mortadella. So, so good.
Pair with a glass of sparkling red wine (as suggested by the team here), and relax into a pizzeria experience that straddles the traditional and the contemporary with real skill.
Website: diegovitagliano.it
Address: Via Nuova Agnano, 1, 80125 Napoli NA, Italy
Starita a Materdei
Ideal for a very different type of fried pizza…
In the historic Materdei district, Starita a Materdei is a legendary pizzeria with roots dating back to 1901. Founded by Antonio Starita, this family-run establishment has been passed down through generations, with Don Antonio Starita currently at the helm.
The Montanara Starita, a lightly fried pizza that’s topped (rather than filled) with tomato sauce, provola cheese and basil, is the signature here, and a feat of some engineering – light but crisp, and not oily at all. It’s superb.
The absolute classics are excellent, too. We can’t resist their Diavola, which is – a rare thing with this type of pizza – nicely spicy but not absurdly salty. Pizza Express, take note!
The warm, rustic interior, dressed up with vintage photographs and memorabilia, hammers home the pizzeria’s rich history. End with fried dough sticks (angioletti) dressed in a gorgeous pistachio cream or nutella for the full Startia experience.
Website: pizzeriestarita.it
Address: Via Materdei, 27/28, 80136 Napoli NA, Italy
Di Martino Seafront Pasta Bar
Ideal for a classy, precise pasta tasting menu experience…
Piazza Municipio is a large public square sitting in the heart of Naples, known for its proximity to the historic Castel Nuovo and the city’s main port. Right opposite the castle, you’ll find one of Naples’s more contemporary pasta places; Di Martino Seafront Pasta Bar.
Opened by the Di Martino family, renowned pasta producers from nearby Gragnano, the restaurant seamlessly blends a pasta shop, take-away service, and a full dining establishment, all with a contemporary flair not exactly ubiquitous in a city still largely in thrall to old-school dining and tradition.
Pull up a pew at the horseshoe counter and watch the show commence, as skilled chefs perform endless mantecatura with the deftest wrist flicks. It’s all going into some seriously silky pasta.
The pick of the bunch on a recent visit was those appropriately shaped seashells tofette, which caught the sauce of broad beans and tuna bacon just beautifully. Equally good, and arriving in a neat little Jenga-style stack to remind you that this is a fancier operation than Nonna’s down the road in Quartieri Spagnoli, is the ziti with Genovese ragu. Glossy with added bone marrow, it’s an absolute treat.
Enjoy both on the a la carte menu for a premium price of €28 and €24 respectively, or as part of the restaurant’s pasta-based tasting menu (has there ever been a more enticing phrase?), which is a lavish nine-course affair priced at €100. Add a wine pairing option (much recommended – it was excellent) for an additional €40.
With operating hours from Tuesday to Sunday and views of the shimmering water and castle from the bright and airy dining room, it’s the ideal spot for a laid back but sophisticated lunch or dinner. Do note that it’s closed on Mondays.
Website: pastadimartino.it
Address: P.za Municipio, 1, 80133 Napoli NA, Italy
Luminist Cafè Bistrot
Ideal for contemporary Neapolitan dining in artistic surrounds…
Sitting pretty (honestly, really bloody pretty) on one of Naples’s defining thoroughfares Via Toledo is the city’s history Banco di Napoli building, which now houses the Gallerie d’Italia museum. And inside that gallery is the fittingly easy-on-the-eye Luminist Café Bistrot.
Allow yourself to be enticed inside by the glass pasticceria display, which houses rows of intricately adorned pastries and cakes. Or, settle in for lunch proper (the restaurant closes at 6pm, but this is very much a lunch place in vibe and feel) and enjoy regional Campanian specialties and a few international twists for good measure.
The spaghetti with bottarga and lemon-spiked pangrattato is superb here, but you can go off-piste, too, with a hamburger, paella or even ceviche. Or, you could stick to the classics, as we did, and have yet another ziti alla Genovese. It’s just too good to ignore.
Luminist maintains a 30% minimum of natural wine on its wine list, amplifying its dedication to seasonal and organic fare. An air-conditioned, wheelchair-accessible environment ensures comfort for all guests. On a properly humid day in Naples, it’s such a welcome respite in here.
Instagram: @luministnapoli
Address: Via Toledo, 177/178, 80134 Napoli NA, Italy
Mimi alla Ferrovia
Ideal for celebrity spotting and old school fine dining…
A favourite of Diego Maradona during his time in Naples in the 1980s, Mimi alla Ferrovia has been frequented by celebrities and Neapolitan high society from the moment it first opened its doors back in 1944.
Though the tablecloths are starched white, the ceiling frescoed and the clientele celebrity, the vibe inside is refreshingly laid back. As is the food, with traditional Neapolitan and Campanian dishes served as they should be; generously proportioned and singing of their star ingredients. The ravioli of seabass – expertly made, naturally – arrives under several plump, still-pink prawns, whilst baby octopus is served with fresh tomatoes, olives and capers.
It’s refined but generous, and the service matches that sentiment, perfectly balancing attentiveness with privacy when required. In a city where the hospitality can occasionally be a touch brusque, Mimi alla Ferrovia stands out as something of a special occasion kind of place for its elegant pace. The fact Robert de Niro or even Alain Ducasse might be on the adjacent table certainly does no harm.
Website: mimiallaferrovia.it
Address: Via Alfonso D’Aragona, 19/21, 80139 Napoli NA, Italy
Palazzo Petrucci
Ideal for Naples’s best Michelin-starred experience…
Speaking of special occasion sort of places, Palazzo Petrucci is the only Michelin-starred restaurant we’ve featured on our list of the best places to eat in Naples, owing to its breathtaking views of the Bay of Naples and its sophisticated seafood menu that offers a different take on the food of this most cherished part of Italy.
Designed by revered local architect Alfredo Galdi, the restaurant offers a modern, minimalist setting that perfectly complements chef Lino Scarallo’s intricate tasting menus. Notable dishes include a rare blue lobster stuffed with caponata and buffalo mozzarella paired with Sicilian red prawns. That said, the candele with Genovese reduction, snapper tartare, provola fondue and lemon zest is a dish that will be remembered for some time still.
Prices for the tasting menu here start at €100, though we’d highly recommend forking out on the six course seafood menu featuring raw fish for €150, which offers the most comprehensive introduction to Scarallo’s cuisine. It’s a superb, sophisticated dining evening, and our favourite fine dining experience in Naples.
The pizzeria that operates under the Palazzo Petrucci umbrella, back in the city centre, is also excellent.
Website: palazzopetrucci.it
Address: Via Posillipo, 16 C, 80123 Napoli NA, Italy
CrudoRe’
Ideal for a fresh, fancy evening of raw fish…
Crudore, on the edge of the attractive Villa Comunale, places an emphasis on raw fish which sets it apart in Naples’s culinary landscape.
Even if the name passes you by (a pun which means ‘king of the raw’), you’ll feel the freshness of the offering as you walk through the dining room to your table, with a huge display of sea bream, langoustines and more over ice assuring you that the catch is glistening. Of course, there are walls made up of fish tanks, reiterating that point.
That fish is served with real panache, delicately assembled and sliced just right, with Japanese influences peppered throughout. If they’ve got sea urchin on display, order it; we’ve had two superb preparations of the stuff on previous visits to CrudoRe’. That said, for those squeamish about raw fish, there’s still plenty to enjoy, including excellent clam ravioli and seafood risotto, the latter brought to life with fresh stracciatella.
The cellar is stacked, too, with 450 labels of champagne and 550 of wine. Sure, it’s all a bit (well, a lot) bling and brash, but when the food is this good, we’re not complaining.
Website: crudore.it
Address: Via Carlo Poerio, 45/46, 80121 Napoli NA, Italy
La Sfogliatella Mary
Ideal for a gold standard version of Naples’s favourite sweet treat…
Neapolitans are just as crazy about their sweet stuff as they are seafood and pizza, and arguably the headlining sweet treat in the city (rum baba might have something to say about that) is the iconic pastry sfogliatelle, a a crispy, layered pastry filled with sweet ricotta cheese and candied citrus peel. God, it’s good.
La Sfogliatella Mary, in the bustling Galleria Umberto I, is known citywide for its mastery of the iconic Neapolitan pastry. Established in 1979, this small yet renowned pastry shop has become a pilgrimage site for pastry enthusiasts. The sfogliatelle, available in both ‘riccia’ (curly) and ‘frolla’ (smooth) varieties, is crafted with meticulous attention to detail.
The riccia version features a crisp, multi-layered shell filled with a fragrant mixture of ricotta, semolina, candied citrus, and a hint of cinnamon, while the frolla offers a tender, shortcrust pastry alternative. We’re very much here for the former variety, which, to our mind, is the best in the city.
La Sfogliatella Mary also excels in other traditional pastries of the region, such as baba and pastiera, but it is the sfogliatella that truly steals the show. Hence the name.
Address: Galleria Umberto I, 66, 80132 Napoli NA, Italy
Casa Infante
Ideal for artisanal gelato in both traditional and inventive flavours…
We’re on a roll (and a sugar high) in terms of sweet treats now, so we’re heading to Casa Infante, a cherished name in Naples synonymous with artisanal gelato and traditional Neapolitan pastries.
Founded in 1940, this family-run gelateria and pastry shop has built a reputation for its commitment to quality and innovation. Casa Infante’s gelato, made from the finest Campanian ingredients, offers a wide array of flavours, from classic pistachio and stracciatella to inventive combinations like ricotta and pear.
With multiple locations across Naples, Casa Infante always seems to pop up when you most need it. As in, when you’re hot, sticky and in need of a refreshing, cooling pick-me-up.
Speaking of pick-me-ups, the espresso here is excellent, too. And since you’re here, why not pick up a jar of baba soaked in rum to take home? It makes the ideal souvenir!
Website: casainfante.it
Address: Via Torino, 48, 20123 Milano MI, Italy
Pasticceria Poppella
Ideal for trying the famous snowflake…
Another pit stop for a Neapolitan sugar hit, we’re heading to Pasticceria Poppella next. Nestled in the Rione Sanità district, it’s renowned as a historic pastry shop renowned for its innovative and traditional confections. Established in 1920, Poppella has become a household name, particularly famous for its signature creation, the ‘Fiocco di Neve’ (Snowflake).
This delicate pastry, a soft brioche filled with a light, creamy ricotta and milk mixture, has garnered a cult following for its combination of indulgence and cloud-like texture that disappears in a couple of bites. We are very much one of that following, as, it seems, is most of Naples. You can expect to queue here, so order several to take away.
Website:: @pasticceriapoppella.com
Address: Via Santa Brigida, 69/70, 80132 Napoli NA, Italy
Pescheria Azzurra
Ideal for cones of freshly fried fried small fish…
Sweet stuff for starters and fish for dessert? Feels a funny way round, granted, but you don’t have to follow this rundown of the IDEAL 22 places to eat in Naples in order, of course. Neither do you have to eat at all of these places in a single day. That would be mental…
Anyway, just beyond the tightly knotted, always shaded streets of Centro Storico, in a part of town that feels like you’re coming up for air and bursting into the light, is Montesanto and its Pignasecca Market. Lively as hell and full of debate, bartering and the odd quarrel, there’s an irresistible energy to proceedings here, and nowhere is this better exemplified than Pescheria Azzurra, a seafood lover’s paradise that has been serving the community since 1950.
This family-run fish market and eatery is renowned for its fresh seafood, sourced daily from the nearby Tyrrhenian Sea and displayed on ice in the open air, with Neapolitans dropping by in a constant stream to inspect the catch.
What sets Pescheria Azzurra apart is its ‘from catch-to-table’ experience, where diners can select their seafood directly from the market and have it cooked on-site. The signature here is the frittura di paranza, a mixed fry of small fish, but you’ll get the classic Campanian pasta dishes too. There are tables, sure, and a predictably chaotic queue for them, but it’s just as nice to order a cone of fried fish, a beer or two, and just pitch up against the wall opposite to take in the show.
Website: Via Portamedina, 3/4 5, 80134 Napoli NA, Italy
Trattoria Da Nennella
Ideal for pasta, potatoes and provola…
No trip to Naples (or roundup of the best restaurants in Naples) would be complete without a meal at Trattoria Da Nennella. Or, more precisely, no trip to Naples would be complete without being gently ribbed by the staff at this infamous trattoria.
Because that’s all part of the fun at Trattoria Da Nennella, a place where the hearty, roughly hewn renditions of Neapolitan homestyle dishes play second fiddle to the spectacle of service (where a waiter might suddenly be playing an actual fiddle, let’s be honest).
In the business since 1949, there’s plate throwing, insult chucking and chanting galore here, a theatrical experience that pairs surprisingly well with the pasta e patate and salsiccia e friarielli. The trattoria’s rustic yet somehow flashy decor, with its chequered tablecloths and vintage photos (what else?), adds to the fabric of the place, and the slightly fabricated vibe, it has to be said.
Website: @trattorianennella.it
Address: Piazza Carità, 22, 80134 Napoli NA, Italy
Cibi Cotti Nonna Anna
Ideal for legendary Neapolitan homecooking in the corner of a covered market…
Shimmy through the throbbing activity of Mergellina’s covered market, perhaps vaulting over a couple of crates of fresh fruit and veg in the process. Make for the far corner of the arcade and the crowds of hungry diners, all seeking a plate or two of home-cooked food from one of Naples’s most iconic kitchens.
There is no printed menu here, no waiters. Instead, what’s cooked is what’s fresh and seasonal from the market. Simply make your order at the counter (you’ll pay here once you’re finished, too) and keep one roving eye on any of the three or four tables. Be ready to pounce when a free one emerges.
Though it might not be on when you visit, we’ve enjoyed the finest spaghetti alla puttanesca of our life here; a properly briny, spicy version which had been cooked low and slow in good quality olive oil until almost confited. We’ve heard great things about the kitchen’s pasta e fagioli, too.
Cibi Cotti Nonna Anna first opened its doors in 1963 as a humble take-away kitchen. It wasn’t until the 1980s that the restaurant expanded to include tables. Now, it does both takeaway and sit-down. Though Nonna Anna Pappalardo sadly passed away in 2017, her children keep the name alive and the place is as bustling as ever. So bustling, in fact, that we wouldn’t recommend coming here between 1pm and 2pm, when office workers come in their droves – the ultimate compliment on the quality of the food, we think!
Cibi Cotti Nonna Anna is only open between midday and 3:30pm, and is closed on Sundays.
Facebook: @cibicottinonnaanna
Address: Via Ferdinando Galiani, 30, 80122 Napoli NA, Italy
Braceria Pastore
Ideal for finding relief in respite in steak…
We end in the Vomero district, at Braceria Pastore. We’ve gorged on all our sweet treats during the day, as is the Neapolitan tradition, so we’re ending our tour of the best food in Naples instead with a steak. This is a city that doesn’t play by the rules, after all.
This family-owned braceria (simply meaning ‘steakhouse’) has built a reputation for serving some of the finest cuts of meat in the city, sourced from local farms and expertly prepared over an open flame. The menu features a variety of meats, including the headlining steaks, lamb chops, and the signature salsiccia napoletana (Neapolitan sausage), all blistered and burnished on the grill until smoky. Honestly, after an orgy of pastry, pasta and pizza, a big ol’ hunk of meat is just the ticket.
Don’t expect the usual steakhouse staging of wooden beams and exposed brick walls; the vibe here is more simple, with a few cream leather banquettes and stark overhead lighting. Not to worry; it only serves to illuminate the perfect bark and blushing centre on that steak. You know what? We might just stay here a while and admire this thing…
Instagram: @braceriapastore
Address: Via Michelangelo da Caravaggio, 56A/56B/58/60/62, 80126 Napoli NA, Italy
Speaking of which, why not check out where to eat the best steak in London next?