Fishing has always been a big part of Edinburgh’s DNA, particularly the district of Leith, which was one of the first British ports to welcome spices from Asia centuries ago.
If you were to stroll down the cobbled, industrial streets of Leith in the early nineteenth century, you would have been slapped with the stench of brine and the crisp smell of sea salt, not to mention the pungent fragrance of fresh – and not so fresh – fish resting in ice buckets and barrels alongside the racket of merchants and shoppers trading and selling.
You can still find this scene in pockets of the city, such as in Newhaven, where Welch Fishmongers welcomes regular dayboats into the harbour, and in The Fishmarket (actually a restaurant) here, which cherishes the tradition of the past while embracing new-world flavours. Their menu sees battered haddock and chips rubs shoulders (or should that be ‘fins’?) with curried monkfish, reflecting the time and place found in the first paragraph oh-so succinctly.
If you combine this citywide history with the institution of Scottish freshwater salmon, caught from one of the almost 400 different rivers that crisscross the country like a tartan print, it makes sense that Edinburgh has become an oasis of high-quality seafood restaurants in the intervening years, serving as culinary reminders of the city’s maritime heritage.
We’ve spent some time shucking every oyster and pinboning every mackerel in Auld Reekie so you don’t have to, all in the name of bringing you this; our guide to the best seafood restaurants in Edinburgh.
White Horse Oyster Bar
The Royal Mile of Edinburgh, flanked by Edinburgh Castle at one end and Holyrood palace at the other, is a famous thoroughfare that got its name from being a common procession route for past royal members to parade down.
And tucked away in the site of the oldest pub in the area is a seafood banquet fit for a king, that’s for sure. But be warned; when you enter White Horse Oyster Bar, you’re not greeted with a blast of the herald’s trumpet. Rather, you’re welcomed by a massive lobster tank that bubbles away gently as unassuming crustaceans clamber around. We know which we’d prefer.
The rest of the venue is quaint and compact, and blends old-timey charm with modern flourishes dexterously. An exposed brick wall looms over sleek, jet-black leather seating, creating a contrast in line with the soul of the city and the seafood served within it.
The food at the White Horse is designed to be a communal affair, to get everyone involved; this isn’t the place to be shy about rolling your sleeves up and showing your elbows.
Allow for saucy fingers as you tuck into their iconic sharing platters, filled to the brim with garlic-heavy whole lobster, fragrant pickled mussels, scotch bonnet salmon (a fruity kind of spicy rather than one that overwhelms the elegant flavour of the fish), delicate tuna tartare, and octopus that has been marinated for hours in a sauce made of sea herbs to lock in the flavour. Because what grows together goes together, right?
If you’re more of a lone diner who loves soaking up the vibe without distraction, you can also neck a single portion of oysters, served straight to your perch at the pub’s wooden-panelled bar. Mine’s a Radical Road Pale, if you’re getting them in.
Alongside the obligatory oysters, a must order are the crab straw fries, where thin crispy batons of potato are topped with a generous portion of sweet crab meat and dollops of brown crab mayo. Just lovely.
The restaurant relies on a line of bespoke suppliers to individually source all the seafood from within Scotland, with Fish Brothers, Mara Seaweed, and the aforementioned Welch Fishmongers all bringing boxes to the White Horse door each morning. This ensures that the produce is squeaky fresh, with that taste of the sea that every piscivore savours all present and correct.
Address: The Royal Mile, 266 Canongate, Edinburgh EH8 8AA
Website: whitehorseoysterbar.co.uk
Read: 4 of the best city breaks in Scotland for 2023
Ondine
Although Edinburgh has a deep history of seafood in its own right, Ondine seeks inspiration from corners further flung.
Sure, the fish here is sourced from the centuries-old, traditional fishing spots off Scotland’s East Coast, but the cooking techniques and flavour profile of the dishes buck the trend and instead dive headfirst into global influences, giving Ondine a globetrotting identity in tune with the increasingly multicultural nature of its home city.
Ondine is the brainchild of head chef Roy Brett, a chef with some serious pedigree; he cut his teeth at The Savoy before earning his seafood chops at the famous Rick Stein restaurants in Padstow, Cornwall. He’s now found his home in Edinburgh, offering diners a culinary voyage around the world through the medium of seafood.
The menu’s prosaically named ‘fish and shellfish soup’ is a case in point, with the humble dish embracing the flavours of Marseilles via North Africa in its use of saffron and orange. Equally, the restaurant’s salt and pepper squid is also given clout and vigour with a Vietnamese-inspired lime, ginger, and chilli dipping sauce.
Ondine also offers fine British meats (there is a single nod to a bone-in sirloin in the mains section) but it’s their divine seafood platters served on crisp, crushed ice that keeps bringing patrons through their doors. The sound of that ice gently granulating as you drag the first shell over it (what, you don’t do that?) is enough to set off a Pavlov-like reaction in this particular diner.
Ondine’s interior is adorned with porthole-styled mirrors, the restaurant’s support columns bejewelled with grey-scale tiles that evoke fish scales shimmering in the sunlight under the ocean. It’s certainly evocative, its sense of mise-en-scene far more fruitful than Heston’s ‘sound of the sea’ palaver.
Ondine was awarded the Best Restaurant in Scotland at the Estrella Damm National Restaurant Awards as recently as 2021, meaning it will be a seafood spot that satisfies all your desires. If those desires concern dinner, of course!
Ondine also features in the latest Michelin Guide for Edinburgh.
Address: 2 George IV Bridge, Edinburgh EH1 1AD
Website: ondinerestaurant.co.uk
Fishers, Leith
The Fishers name has been synonymous with fresh fish in the Scottish capital for over two decades now, with three sites now serving up the good stuff here.
It’s the original location in Leith that’s the pick of the bunch. Housed in a 17th-century watchtower right by the waterfront and offering dramatic views of the harbour, you can gaze over gently shimmering water while you dig into some classic Scottish seafood dishes, such as revered Shetland mussels and Anstruther smoked salmon.
In the summertime, you can even dine outside and feel a part of the harbourside hubbub while letting the water-spray breeze and salty air create a more sensory-pleasing culinary experience. Did we already mention Heston’s ‘sound of the sea’? You get the picture…
Fishers prides itself on offering a relaxed, approachable vibe, not wanting to scare off the working-class diners that have made up the majority of its clientele over the years. The exterior remains simple, with a classical, verging-on-parody colour scheme, utilising the navy blue and white combination you’d see on a cartoon sailor’s shirt.
The inside is far more subdued and sophisticated, with marble dining areas and a charming backboard that details the day’s specials in hurried handwriting. That said, it still maintains its charm thanks to a massive mermaid figure hanging over the bar. She’s actually rather sexy, if you don’t mind us saying…
Anyway, let’s not get distracted, we’ve come hungry. Here, Shetland Coley comes marinated in spices and cooked in a creamy tamarind coconut curry, served with king prawn bhajis. How good does that sound? Keep going and order the warming green harissa seabass with baba ganoush and pistachio dukkah, offering an earthy yet bright counterpoint to the main event. Just lovely.
Address: 1 The Shore, Edinburgh, EH6 6QW
Website: fishersrestaurants.co.uk
Cadiz
Cadiz is named after the famous fishing city in Spain, home to one of the biggest freshwater fishing markets in Europe, and aims to translate the energy of the former market town while also paying homage to its bold Iberian flavours.
Cadiz (the restaurant, and the town, we guess) is a celebration of Spanish seafood, and that much is evident the second you’re ushered to your table. The venue boasts highly detailed and sculpted ceiling beams, a classy touch undercut by quirky paintings of lobsters, exposed brick walls, and muted leather seats.
Mussels and mull scallops, favourites among the Spanish, feature heavily on the menu. Although caught in Scottish waters, naturally, they’ve been given a Mediterranean twist that diners haven’t been able to get enough of… Booking in advance is very much recommended.
Cadiz opened fairly recently and already commands a cult following, with the Cumbrae oysters served with either an acidic lemon, sherry vinegar, and shallot dressing, or a fiery chilli, soy, and pickled ginger option, a particular favourite of ours.
Don’t stop there; the Shetland mussels are served with braised chorizo, chilli, saffron, and tomatoes that will send your palate straight to the southwest of Spain.
Come back to Scotland; the main event here is arguably the seafood arroz, a plate of prawns, calamari and mussels all bedding down on rich and giving braised rice. It’s an absolute steal at £18; just don’t call it paella.
If the buzz of the bar and dining room is a little too much for you, a more intimate experience can be found at the chef’s table, a hidden area separated from the main restaurant. Here, you’ll have a full view of the chefs at work, allowing up to 14 diners to get a more personal connection with the food.
Wherever you choose to dine, you’re going to be fed very well here.
Address: 77b George Street, Edinburgh, EH2 3EES
Website: cadizedinburgh.co.uk/
Read: 5 of the best Spanish train trips
Loch Fyne
We’re all familiar with the Loch Fyne chain, with the seafood specialists currently boasting six outposts across the country (sadly, several have closed as a result of increasingly turbulent times). That said, the Edinburgh rendition is particularly special, we think.
Housed in a striking former fish market in Newhaven harbour, the location feels wholly appropriate for some of Edinburgh’s most obsessively crafted seafood. With the building dating back to the 1890s, it’s an excellent location for diners who want to enjoy a side order of heritage with their haddock.
As expected from an old market hall, the interior of Lock Fyne is an industrial-looking affair thanks to its exposed, dusty red bricked walls. The high ceilings give this venue a tremendous sense of space with the use of light wooden floors and furniture brightening up the room.
Named after the Loch where most of the produce is sourced from and where founders Johnny Noble and Andy Lane first handpicked their oysters nearly half a century ago, the venue is also tastefully decorated with depictions of Loch Fyne.
Johnny and Andy were oyster enthusiasts and first used to sell the oysters they harvested from makeshift shacks around the west coast of Scotland. Now, this Edinburgh location is the flagship venue, and long may it continue.
The hero ingredient is served here with minimal fuss and pageantry, with just an optional side of either soy and ginger or wasabi sauce to accent the flavour; the oysters doing all the heavy lifting. This approach allows for the sought-after briny taste to come through as you slurp on the velvety meat of the mollusc, giving a full flavour of the complexity of the ocean.
You can also grab their beautiful golden-shelled mussels, sustainably supplied by Lock Fyne Oysters LTD, a well-respected brand. Plus, if you order at their bar, you can pair your food with sparkling whites like Joseph Perrier champagne or crisp alternatives like Muscadet, both of which feel like they were made for slurping the ocean’s finest ingredient.
Address: 25-26 Pier Place, Newhaven Harbour, Midlothian, EH6 4LP
Website: lochfyneseafoodandgrill.co.uk
Fin & Grape
Opened in late 2020, Fin & Grape is a seafood spot for diners in the know. Located in the Edinburgh suburb Merchiston, it’s a good spot for locals to sample some delicious seafood and offers a sense of come-hither to tourists looking to branch out from the central sector of the city and drop anchor elsewhere.
With a seasonal menu curated by experienced hand Stuart Smith, Fin & Grape showcases the chef’s love for grilled seafood, with most meals prepared using a Japanese Konro BBQ that adds an unrivalled smokey texture and flavour to the dishes.
Smith isn’t a chef to experiment and play with a multitude of diverse flavours. Instead, he likes to keep things simple, with salt being his prized ingredient, using the mineral to unlock the deep flavour hidden within the fish itself.
As it’s a seasonal menu, you can be sure that all dishes are fresh and carefully considered, using ingredients that are most abundant each season that helps the restaurant stay new and exciting throughout the entire year. If you dine at the right time, you’ll be able to sample some line-caught mackerel, cod mousse, hake croquettes, and the catch of the day, all reimagined and enhanced via the power of smoke and flame.
The dishes are designed to be shared among friends, with a range of small bites and a la carte plates available. Despite the dining room being what an estate agent would charitably describe as ‘cosy’, the large windows that allow you to peer out into the foliage of nearby greenery add a sense of space, and it has a homely feel thanks to its dark blue trimmings and copper hanging lights that build a pleasant ambience that doesn’t distract from that’s on the plate.
And chiefly because of what’s on those plates, Fin & Grape was added to the Good Food Platinum List in 2021, one of only two Scottish venues to receive the accolade. We can’t wait to go back.
Address: 19 Colinton Road, Edinburgh, EH10 5DP
Website: finandgrape.com
And if you’re sticking around in the city for a longer stay, check out our IDEAL city guide to 24 hours in Edinburgh’s West End. Fancy meeting for some oysters while you’re there?