Thai restaurants seem to be one of the fastest-growing dining segments in London at the moment. Plaza Khao Gaeng and Speedboat Bar, both much rave-reviewed, are relatively recent additions to the city. The guys behind Som Saa are set to open a Southern Thai grill restaurant in Borough market. Oh, and the award winning restaurant group JKS also have another Thai venture on the horizon, this time slated to be under the iconic chimneys of Battersea Power Station.
But one Thai joint that remains a firm favourite – for us and so many of London’s diners – is Kiln. For us, there’s no restaurant quite like it in Soho.
Billing itself as a Thai grill, Kiln is quite the sensory spectacle, with bar seating overlooking flames, coals and clay pots. The vibe transports you right out of central London and to somewhere altogether hotter and more rustic.
The restaurant works proudly with a close clutch of suppliers, with fish sourced directly, daily, from fishing boats in Cornwall, and heritage vegetables earning equal billing on the menu to protein. During game season, that menu comes alive with jungle curries of wood pigeon or wild mallard and minced laab salads of raw venison (whose season runs from April through October, incidentally).
But even better, and on more consistently throughout the year, is cull yaw, a type of mutton from retired female ewes that has been fattened with high degrees of welfare in mind. The meat has an incredible depth of flavour, and has been making appearances on the menu of several acclaimed London restaurants in recent years. At Kiln, it’s often served as a collar chop accompanied by a spicy dipping sauce, or in grilled skewers with a little sprinkle of cumin. Just so damn delicious.
Address: 58 Brewer St, London W1F 9TL
Website: kilnsoho.com