To survey the culinary landscape in 2018 is to look upon a map of competing, polar opposites. It’s all got a bit binary and here we are, standing at something of a crossroads; turn left for malnourishment, right for a distended stomach and inevitable gout. To follow the path of self denial, eating ‘clean’ and detoxing is certainly not for us. So it’s the other route then, with enthusiasm. Time to embrace the curves and get carnivorous, and while the prospect isn’t a particularly well rounded one, nonetheless here we are, at Rotunda.
IDEA
Buzzwords bear down on you and iconography issues forth from only a cursory glance at the restaurant’s menu.There’s a silhouette of a cow. Licks of phrases like ‘gate to plate’, ‘on site butchery’ and ‘hanging room’ jump out. It all spells meat loudly – good quality, and lots of it.
Rotunda have their own farm in Northumberland supplying all of their beef and lamb, and whilst it’s not personalised to the extent of giving their livestock names on the menu, the butcher who they keep locked up in the basement goes by Claus. Or so we’re told. With all this care describing the sourcing, they’d better be able to cook it…
LOCATION
The restaurant is a ten minute walk from King’s Cross station, and is housed in a multipurpose building which is also home to the Guardian newspaper, a live music venue and more. Rotunda sits on the far side of the building, with a terrace and view over Regent’s Canal. It’s a pleasant little spot to watch the world go by and we imagine in summer it gets very convivial indeed. Sadly, it’s winter and we make do with views of the water via floor to ceiling windows from the safety of indoors.
ATMOSPHERE
The vibe was quiet during our leisurely lunch, although not baren by any means. We wondered if the Guardian’s downsizing to tabloid had affected numbers here. Regardless, service was sharp and charming, and our request to take a look at the hanging room met with a generous, proud tour from the affable manager. Impressive and a highlight, for sure.
FOOD
We entered into our order with a resolute determination not to have four courses of cattle; this was only a weekday lunch after all and Christmas had been excessive. So to start; goat’s curd, beetroot and hazelnut, which is such a menu mainstay we wondered how it could be given fresh life. Well, it’s ubiquitous for a reason, with the curd’s piquancy given extra zip from a punchy, sharp dressing as the beetroot sweetened and soothed. Lamb sweetbreads, crumbed and deep fried, retained their characteristic, almost creamy texture and thankfully hadn’t seen much longer in the fryer. The accompanying jalapeno tartar could’ve had more jalapeno – if an ingredient is going to get billing on the menu, it should be pronounced on the palate – but it provided a good foil to the rich offal, still.
While a steak was guaranteed for mains, we sought guidance on what else worked. We were steered towards a shepherd’s pie with slow cooked lamb shoulder (from the farm). There was serious depth to the meat, and it was lent the desired ‘falling apart’ quality from the length of the cook. Seasonal greens added a little diversity to what may have otherwise become samey after a few bites.
The menu offers a choice of steaks; hanger, rump or rib eye; as well as a choice of the usual suspects, sauce wise. We go for rump as for us, flavour should always trump texture, and if it’s been hung well, this cut can’t be beaten for its deep, minerally, savoury taste. We were right to trust Rotunda to have treated their cow’s backside lovingly; the steak delivered on all it promised, with that almost blue-cheesy-depth present that a great, aged beef often has.
DRINK
A fine selection of wine is available by the glass, as well as bottle, meaning it’s possible to indulge, but with an eye on your wallet and waistline at the same time. The cocktail list is an alluring line up of carefully chosen, seasonal offerings, and as such, should come with a warning. The Frenchie Goes Around, comprising of gin, orange liqueur, lemon, lavender and prosecco, was impossible to resist. And impossible not to order a second, for that matter.
WHY GO
Yes, we know. The New Year has brought with it pledges to be healthy, abstinent and mindful about our meat consumption. But if you’re going to do it, do it occasionally, and do it well. That’s where Rotunda comes in.
Website: www.rotundabarandrestaurant.co.uk
Disclosure: IDEAL Magazine dined as a guest of the restaurant
