Forget everything you think you know about suburban dining. Or, indeed, dining in Surbiton…
Still often dismissed as nothing but a sleepy commuter town, Surbiton actually lays claim to one of South London’s most exciting food scenes. This former Victorian railway residential neighbourhood, just 16 minutes from Waterloo, now boasts a dining scene that could rival most across London’s outer neighbourhoods, with an admirable independent spirit that keeps things interesting.
The epicentre is Maple Road, where ambitious young chefs and family-run restaurants sit side by side, but the entire area pulses with a palpable culinary energy. From a two-rosette French restaurant that Gordon Ramsay once featured on his show to a brand-new Turkish spot that’s turned a tired pub into Surbiton’s hottest opening, here are the best restaurants in Surbiton.
The French Table
Ideal for impressing food-obsessed Francophiles who think nothing good happens south of the river…
Eric and Sarah Guignard have been quietly going about their business of running one of London’s best French restaurants from this sage-green fronted building on Maple Road since 2001.
While central London spots chase trends and Instagram likes and Tod mentions, Eric sticks to what he knows: technically on-point French cooking that makes you remember why the folk who always bang on about classical technique aren’t just toeing the line.
The Classics Menu represents exceptional value at £39 for three courses. Available Tuesday through Thursday evenings and all lunch times, this monthly-changing selection draws from Eric’s 20 year archive of standout dishes – it’s his opportunity to revisit popular starters, mains and desserts that have defined the restaurant over two decades. Recent classics have included the foie gras and chicken liver parfait with toasted brioche from November 2007, and the legendary pear and almond tarte with chocolate sorbet from April 2008.
For those seeking the full experience, the current dinner menu at £68 for three courses features seasonal British ingredients treated with French finesse. The current menu showcases dishes like chilled almond soup with green olive feuillette and smoked almond ‘Waldorf salad’, whilst the raviolo of confit rabbit with Iberico chorizo, roasted peppers and shellfish bisque demonstrates Eric’s ability to layer complex flavours without overwhelming the palate. The latter is superb; one of the best pasta dishes we’ve had in recent years.
The dining room spans two floors painted in calming pastels, tables spaced far enough apart that you can actually have a conversation. Service maintains professional standards while remaining relaxed enough to not lead to a dining room of hush and whisper, and they genuinely seem pleased when you ask what’s in a dish.
Two AA rosettes and a listing in the Good Food Guide tells you what you need to know, but the packed dining room of locals who’ve been coming for years tells you more.
Website: thefrenchtable.co.uk
Address: 85 Maple Rd, Surbiton KT6 4AW
Koyal
Ideal for spice enthusiasts looking for delicate complexity…
Nand Kishor Semwal doesn’t do tikka masala or korma. Instead, at Koyal, the former head chef at Andy Hayler-starred Dastaan, Michelin-starred Trishna and two-starred Gymkhana has brought his considerable talents to this unassuming spot on Brighton Road, where he’s using Himalayan wild mustard and perilla seeds in ways that will rewire your understanding of Indian cuisine.
The menu is an intriguing blend of faithfully rendered regional Indian cooking and the occasional fine dining flourish. The hara pyaaz, aloo and palak ke bhajiye arrive as delicate fritters that shatter at first bite, releasing clouds of steam scented with herbs you can’t quite place. That’s the perilla seed chutney working its magic. The pani puri, decent value at £7, involves multiple layers of flavour that unfold as you eat, with tangy kiwi and pineapple water adding unexpected brightness where usually the richness of tamarind would anchor the whole thing.
Semwal’s Michelin-starred background shows in technically accomplished dishes like the wild boar with toddy vinegar and Goan spices, whilst the muntjac dum biryani layers basmati rice with tender deer meat, saffron and fried onions in the traditional style, the gamey notes tempered by undulating waves of heady dried spice.
Perhaps it’s those bits coming off the binchotan coal grill that produce the truly standout dishes; the wild tiger prawns with kasundi, black pepper and garlic (£7.50 each) are a case in point.
Pair it all with a couple of drinks from the cocktail list, which features bangers like a Saffron Gimlet with gin and saffron cordial, or the Old Monk By The Fire – a dessert cocktail made with 7-year Indian rum, masala tea and almonds. The wine list includes interesting Indian selections from Sula Vineyards alongside European choices.
The dining room seats 130 but never feels cavernous, decked out in colours that stop just short of garish. Service runs on the unobtrusive side, letting the food take centre stage. A meal here runs around £75 per person, which reflects the pedigree and the fact that every dish tastes multicoloured, psychedelic even.
Website: koyalrestaurant.com
Address: 59-63 Brighton Rd, Surbiton KT6 5LR
The Italian Taste
Ideal for Italian that balances ambition with affordability…
The Italian Taste offers something that sits somewhere between your local red-sauce joint and those sterile places where they charge £35 for cacio e pepe, more Siena than Shoreditch, perhaps. Family-run since it opened, this Victoria Road stalwart delivers exactly what you want from a neighbourhood Italian: generous portions, fair prices, and pasta that tastes like someone’s nonna actually made it rather than an English fella made it with both eyes on the bottom line rather than the mantecare pan.
The menu spans all the classics you’d hope for, from daily-changing zuppa del giorno to an indulgent antipasto misto that could easily feed two. The gamberoni Vesuvio sees fat tiger prawns swimming in garlicky tomato sauce that begs to be mopped up with their excellent bread, whilst the linguini marinara heaves with clams, mussels, and prawns in a sauce that tastes distinctly of the sea without being overwhelmingly fishy.
Good, solid technique shows in dishes like the spaghetti carbonara and the risotto alla pescatora, which showcases quality seafood in a creamy rice base.
The recent addition of a secret garden changes the game completely. What was once a decent local Italian now offers al fresco dining that’s genuinely charming, complete with Mediterranean atmosphere. Inside, the Mediterranean blue walls and checked tablecloths telegraph exactly what kind of place this is: no minimalist pretensions, just a trattoria where families celebrate birthdays and couples share bottles of Montepulciano on date night.
The Italian wine list sticks to familiar territory but does it well – Sangiovese del Rubicone at a decent £25.50, Nero d’Avola from Sicily (£30.90), and a decent Chianti Classico (£37.50) that pairs beautifully with their heartier meat dishes. House wines by the glass start at £6.90, making this accessible enough for midweek visits.
Owner Alida works the room most nights, remembering regulars’ usual orders and making newcomers feel like they’ve been coming for years. Book ahead for the garden, especially on warm evenings when half of Surbiton has the same idea.
Website: theitaliantaste.co.uk
Address: 44 Victoria Rd, Surbiton KT6 4JL
Sushi Hero
Ideal for Sushi purists who want their fish glistening and their rice at body temperature…
Sushi Hero is a tiny Ewell Road spot that does things the way it should be made: to order, with fish that was swimming recently enough to still glisten beautifully.
The room barely fits 20 people, which means booking ahead unless you fancy eating California rolls in your car, in a miserable scene that might have you reaching for the hose. Get back inside the room, where recent renovations have smartened things up without losing the intimate feel. This is still very much a neighbourhood spot, just one that happens to serve genuinely excellent sushi.
The Hero Special Roll changes depending on what’s best that day – their signature prawn tempura creation with avocado, cucumber and tobiko that showcases why they’ve built such a following. For those seeking more, the salmon and tuna tartares arrive beautifully dressed with avocado and mooli, whilst the torched salmon belly with ponzu demonstrates a gesture that predates the Nobu version by several years.
The Special Hero Bento offers exceptional value for those wanting to try everything – sushi, sashimi, yakitori, edamame, tempura and gyoza all on one tray for £23. For the less adventurous, the chicken katsu curry gets raves, the sauce made from scratch rather than dumped from a jar.
While the name suggests sushi-only territory, the menu extends well beyond raw fish. The soft shell crab arrives perfectly crispy, the chicken yakitori shows pleasing char marks from the grill, and the prawn tempura delivers the kind of light, crispy batter that makes you wonder why so many places get it wrong.
The sake selection runs from hot nihonshu served traditional-style to premium cold junmai with its rich, full-bodied character. Individual rolls run £6-8, poke bowls £12-15, making this affordable enough for a midweek treat rather than special occasion only.
Website: sushihero.co.uk
Address: 253 Ewell Rd, Surbiton KT6 7AA
Gordon Bennett Bar + Dining
Ideal for lazy Saturday sessions that turn into impromptu dinners…
Gordon Bennett’s doesn’t do reservations. Turn up, grab a table if you can, order some small plates and see where the afternoon takes you. This Maple Road spot nails the neighbourhood bar formula: good drinks, unfussy food, and an atmosphere that encourages you to order just one more round.
The weekend brunch game here is strong – the farmers market brunch is their premium take on the full English, loaded with poached eggs, Cumberland sausages, smoked back bacon, roast tomato, hash browns, portobello mushroom, black pudding and beans. For those wanting something lighter, there’s eggs royale with Scottish smoked salmon or the simple pleasure of scrambled eggs on seeded granary toast. Coffee comes from Coffee Bay, Surbiton’s favourite roastery, served in bottomless mugs for those planning extended, jittery sessions.
Come evening, the tapas menu kicks in with small plates designed for sharing and grazing. The warmed garlic and rosemary flatbread arrives with hummus, fresh green olives and mushroom pâté – essentially their trilogy of dips that might fill you up before you get much further. The grilled buttermilk chicken thigh and chorizo skewers have achieved minor legendary status locally, whilst the medium rare bavette steak bulgogi offers something more substantial for those who’ve worked up an appetite.
The padron peppers arrive properly blistered and salted, the salt and pepper calamari comes with just enough heat from fresh chilli, and the aromatic spare ribs provide the kind of messy eating that makes perfect sense with a pint in hand. For those wanting something more filling, the British beef burger (£16.95, or £9.50 during early bird Tuesday-Thursday) comes with mature cheddar and skin-on chips.
The room feels like someone’s particularly stylish living room, complete with mismatched furniture that somehow works and a fireplace that gets actual use in winter. Outside, pavement tables under the trees provide prime people-watching territory. Behind the bar, they take cocktails seriously without being precious about it – the espresso martini and bloody mary both hit the spot.
The no-bookings policy means weekends can get rammed, but that’s part of the charm. This is Surbiton’s front room, where neighbours become friends over shared plates and third rounds.
Website: gordonbennetts.co.uk
Address: 75 Maple Rd, Surbiton KT6 4AG
Renas
Ideal for Surbiton’s most glamorous night out…
When Gokhan and Ugur transformed the tired Wags N Tales pub into Renas in November 2024, they didn’t just open another Turkish restaurant. They created Surbiton’s first proper dinner-and-dancing destination, complete with colour-changing ceiling lights and DJs after 10pm. The name means ‘rebirth’ in Turkish, and walking into the maroon and poker-green interior with its crystal chandeliers, you understand why. This is what happens when someone decides suburban dining doesn’t have to mean suburban ambitions, and creates a properly kitschy place in the process.
The menu walks the line between traditional Turkish and modern European with surprising confidence. Their lamb shish gets compared to fillet steak, and deservedly so. Each piece arrives charred outside but blushing within, served with Turkish bread for mopping up the juices. Weekend Turkish breakfasts (£15.90) pack the table with menemen, sucuk, honey, kaymak and enough other bits to keep you going until dinner. The Renas Shaksuka Feast adds fried aubergines and grilled halloumi to the traditional egg dish, because why not?
By day it’s family-friendly, but come evening the place transforms. The cocktail list runs to 30 options, including the Turkish Night and Lokum Turkish Delight that taste exactly as kitsch as they sound (in the best way). At £20-30 for mains it’s pricier than your average kebab shop, but this isn’t your average anything. It’s full-on, hectic, boisterous and bawdy, but, most importantly, it’s utterly delicious.
Website: renassurbiton.com
Address: 7-9 Brighton Rd, Surbiton KT6 5LX
The French Tarte
Ideal for a breakfast that makes you cancel your lunch plans…
The French Tarte sits next door to its four-legged sibling, but don’t mistake it for The French Table’s poor relation. This blue-fronted bakery and café stands on its own merits, starting with pastries that former Ritz pastry chef Michel Rissons crafts each morning.
Weekends the place heaves with Surbiton families loading up on pain au chocolat and flat whites made with locally roasted beans. Secure a table and order the croque monsieur: Gruyère melting into quality ham between slices of their own bread, béchamel sauce gilding the lily in the best possible way. Follow it with an almond croissant if you’re of a particularly gluttonous persuasion, as it delivers flaky pastry wrapped around marzipan-sweet filling that makes you understand why the French take breakfast so seriously.
Such breakfasts can quickly turn into long, languid lunches, with the restaurant closing at 4pm and the lunch menu an enticing rundown of French bright and breezy classics like quiche and another round of that croque monsieur.
The afternoon tea (weekends only, book ahead) presents a French spin on the British classic, with savoury elements that have been given real care in their construction rather than just filling space before the sweet stuff.
The community feels as warming as the coffee, regulars greeting each other over shared tables when space gets tight. Lovely stuff, and we’ll probably stay here a little while…
Website: thefrenchtarte.co.uk
Address: 83 Maple Rd, Surbiton KT6 4AW
We’re heading back to Waterloo now for further feasting. Come on, let’s go.
