Any Thai food fanatic worth their fish sauce should already be well versed in the unrestrained beauty of Southern Thailand’s culinary tradition. But for the layperson, here goes; owing to its location with the Gulf of Thailand to the east and Andaman Sea to the west, it’s a cuisine which makes use of the ocean’s bounty at every turn of the rod’s reel.
Expect crab, shrimp and its fermented paste, and both heavy use of fresh chilli and coconut cream, the latter growing abundantly down South. Non-glutinous rice is the staple here, and influences abound from nearby Malaysia and Indonesia.
Anyway, you could’ve just read all that on Wikipedia, right? Should you find yourself in Bangkok, then it won’t take you long to notice just how popular the region’s food has become in the Thai capital. The country’s foodierati just can’t get enough of this lip tingling cuisine, and if you’re keen to join them, then here are the best Southern Thai restaurants in Bangkok.
Sorn
The first Thai restaurant in the world to hold three Michelin stars, and proudly, resolutely Southern to their soul, we had to start here, at Sorn. Now open for seven years, this place has been the talk of the town – no, country – for nearly as long. Sourcing ‘99.9%’ of their ingredients from the south, and supporting countless farmers and fishermen in the process, as well as cooking most of the food in clay pots, you’d be forgiven for thinking this traditional ethos wouldn’t translate into a super-twenty course tasting menu of fine dining.
You’d be wrong; this, quite simply, is some of the finest Thai food in the world, period, Southern or otherwise. The restaurant’s commitment to the techniques and heritage of the region extends beyond recipes and sourcing, all the way to their use of specific cooking vessels and methods – their clay pots are sourced from traditional craftsmen in Nakhon Si Thammarat, while their charcoal grilling uses mangrove wood selected for its particular smoking properties.
Each dish in their tasting menu represents a specific aspect of Southern Thai culinary heritage, from the coastal fishing communities to inland farming traditions. It’s immersive, respectful, celebratory, and utterly delicious. While the menu of course moves with the south’s seasons somewhat, some killer classics remain (even after the recent revamp of the whole menu that arguably finally sealed the deal with Michelin); the famous ‘gems on crab stick’, the pretty-as-a-picture khao yam (rice salad), and the big, generous sharing spread complete with coconut curries and roti grilled to order are – thank the good lord – ever-presents.
Sure, you’ll have to run over hot coals to get a table, but if you’re lucky enough to do so, it’s worth burning your feet for. And mouth; the food is spicy, and all the better for it. Than hai im, na khrap!
Website: sornfinesouthern.com
Address: 56 Soi Sukhumvit 26, Klongton Khlong Toei, Bangkok 10110, Thailand
Khua Kling Pak Sod
Lovers of spicy Southern soul food in Bangkok have been raving about this hugely popular, increasingly ubiquitous Southern Thai restaurant group for years now. It’s safe to say that Khua Kling Pak Sod has certainly played a major part in the city’s love of the region’s cuisine, with its inclusive vibe, keen pricing, and faithfully rendered classics irresistible to Bangkokians of all stripes.
It all started in one beloved family-run joint in downtown Sukhumvit, using family recipes and a faithful connection to the producers of the south, and the formula worked superbly; it has led to several more in Bangkok, the restaurant’s instantly recognisable yellow logo now a familiar sight in the sois and shopping malls on the city.
That’s not to say Khua Kling Pak Sod doesn’t keep things consistent; in every outpost, these classic Southern Thai dishes are unapologetically spicy. Each morning at Khua Kling Pak Sod begins before dawn with the preparation of curry pastes, following recipes that have been in the owner’s family for generations. A chorus of pok-pok’ing, just as much as the morning suat mon, reminds you exactly where you are.
The chillies here come from specially chosen farms in the south that grow varieties known for their intense heat and fragrance. The restaurant maintains relationships with particular fishing communities in Chumphon, ensuring they receive the freshest seafood daily via overnight transport.
The restaurant’s namesake dish – the khua kling; a minced pork curry, stir fried with red curry paste and served dry – throbs with local prik kee noo chillis to an almost nuclear level, and is all the better for it. Their yellow coconut milk curry of crab meat, served with thin kanom jeen fermented rice noodles is another belter; offering less respite from the heat than the name suggests and, though we may be repeating ourselves, is all the better for it.
Perhaps steer clear if spice isn’t your thing. Even with the South’s reputation for chilli addiction, this restaurant does things hot, hot, hot. But if it is your thing, you’ll find Khua Kling Pak Sod to be one of the best restaurants in Bangkok.
Website: khuaklingpaksod.com
Address: 98/1 Pai Di Ma Di Klang Alley, Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok 10110, Thailand
Ruam Thai
If you’re seeking Southern Thai food at its most democratic, make your way over to the Thonburi side of town, and to Wang Lang street for this no-frills spot that’s been feeding hungry locals, medical students from nearby Siriraj Hospital, and the occasional wandering food obsessive, for decades. This is raan khao gaeng (rice and curry shop) dining at its finest – a row of stainless steel trays brimming with curries, stir-fries and soups that get ladled over rice with admirable efficiency.
The selection varies daily but is always resolutely Southern – expect to find the full firepower of the region represented in staples like gaeng tai pla (fish entrails curry) and the aforementioned khua kling. The gaeng som (sour curry) here deserves special mention, particularly when made with tender young taro stems which soak up the sauce just right.
Indeed, the kitchen isn’t toning down the flavours for farang palates here (it’s not an area with many tourists) – locals queue from dawn onwards for their breakfast hit of spice, and you’d do well to join them, as the best dishes tend to sell out by early afternoon. Don’t miss their excellent stink beans with prawns when in season, and if you spot the salted fried fish topped with crispy shallots and bird’s eye chillies, make the appropriate enthusiastic gesture – it’s a perfect foil to the curries.
The beauty of Ruam Thai is in its accessible price point, with most dishes hovering around the 50 baht mark. It’s the kind of place that reminds you that some of Bangkok’s finest food isn’t found in fancy dining rooms but in shophouses that have been quietly going about their business for generations.
Perhaps best of all, just next door you’ll find Phensri, a traditional Thai dessert shop where jasmine-scented sweets provide the perfect ending to what can be an assertively spicy meal. Now that’s what we call thoughtful neighbourhood planning.
Word of warning – sometimes you’ll find this place closed without warning. Best to have a backup nearby.
Address: 375/4 Wang Lang Rd, Ban Chang Lo, Bangkok Noi, Bangkok 10700, Thailand
Prai Raya
Phuket is perhaps Thailand’s premier foodie destination outside of the capital, and in a country of such rich, varied and uniformly delicious food, that’s truly saying something. One of the leading Southern Thai restaurants in the city is Raya.
So popular, in fact, that it’s spawned sister restaurants in Phuket in the form of One Chun and Chomchan, and an outpost in Bangkok, named Prai Raya. We’ll pull up a chair here, then, rather than hopping on a flight to Phuket, ordering their wonderful, black pepper heavy (prominent in the South’s cuisine, and reflective of the historic spice trade through Phuket’s ports) moo hong, a dish of stewed pork which is the restaurant’s signature.
Another intriguing find here is the Phuket-style relish of roasted peanuts served in fresh coconut milk. Served with rice crackers for dipping and dredging, it’s a dish that confirms not all of the south’s food needs to have the spice-levels dialled up to 11.
The nahm phrik gapi (shrimp paste relish) is perhaps even better, here infused with a real sense of the south through a variety of citrus fruits – both zest and juice – native to the region. It sings with vivacity, much like the region, and country, itself.
While the restaurant’s Sino-Portuguese interiors might resemble a simulacrum of the original in Phuket, there’s no denying that the Sukhumvit rendition, complete with a garden ready for the brief Bangkok winters, is an agreeable place to unwind in.
Facebook: @PraiRayaPhuket
Address: 59 Soi Sukhumvit 8, Khlong Toei, Bangkok 10110, Thailand
Baan Ice
If you weren’t fortunate enough to secure a seat at Sorn, then firstly, join the club. But more importantly, don’t fret; you can still sample superstar chef Supaksorn Jongsiri’s take on the food of his childhood at Baan Ice, a more affordable, less exclusive sibling to Sorn.
This certainly doesn’t mean flavour has been compromised or that faithful sourcing of Southern ingredients sacrificed. Oh no, it’s all very much present and correct here. The restaurant maintains relationships with specific producers, including using budu (fermented fish sauce) from a particular producer in Pattani and dried fish from traditional fishing communities in Songkhla. Their curry pastes are made fresh daily using recipes passed down through Chef Ice’s family.
Their stir fried sator bean and shrimp is pungent and punchy in just the right way, whilst ‘grandpa’s’ khao yam is delicate, delicious and (whisper it) almost as good as the version found at their accolade accumulating sister restaurant. What’s more, the gaeng tai pla is as good – no, honestly – as it sounds, and steadfast to the uncompromising, relentless flavours of the south.
With 5 branches of Baan Ice open all day, from 11am to 10pm, seven days a week, you’ll have no trouble securing a seat here. Savour it.
Website: baanice.com
Central Bangkok Locations: Icon Siam, Thonglor, Siam Paragon
Janhom
In a city approaching Southern Thai banger saturation point, Janhom stands apart through a sheer, unwavering dedication to tradition. For over two decades, Chef Poonsri ‘Auntie Baew’ Sarikarn has been serving up some of Bangkok’s most uncompromising Southern fare from this modest but totally perfect restaurant in Wang Thonglang.
The gaeng luang (sour yellow curry) here is as good as it gets (both the dish and life). Somehow resist the temptation to order this one with big chunks of crab (defer that temptation for the yellow crab curry, which is ace) and instead have your gaeng luang with chunks of barramundi, poached in the curry on the bone, and coconut shoots, which have the remarkable ability to soak up all that broth whilst retaining crunch and structural integrity. It’s one of the best curries in the city – assertive but nuanced, and with enough chilli heart to dust off the very worst of Bangkok hangovers.
Indeed, unlike many Bangkok riffs on the region’s food that may sweeten their curries to appease local palates, Auntie Baew’s version remains steadfastly true to its Surat Thani roots – bracingly sour, properly salty, and carrying enough heat to remind you that you’re very much eating Southern Thai cuisine. The curry pastes, hand-pounded fresh daily in-house, provides a depth of flavour and ’roundness’ that simply can’t be replicated with commercial alternatives. Or, indeed, a blender…
Don’t miss the deep fried fish with crispy turmeric and garlic (pla tod kamin), a welcome, neutral, fatty counterpoint to all the chilli-forward dishes on the table. The flesh remains tender while the exterior crackles satisfyingly, the earthy notes of turmeric providing a perfect counterpoint to the delicate meat. If it’s on, the deep-fried frog version is even better.
Another much-needed balancing dish that’s essential for your table is the stir fried melinjo leaves with egg (pak liang pad khai), which soothes the most bracing notes of those dishes orbiting the rice. When all paired together, it’s such a harmonious spread, which grips you and pulls you in, not letting up until the final, gratis chilled watermelon hits the table to cleanse everything that’s just happened.
Janhom is somewhat out in the sticks (relatively speaking) and isn’t reachable by BTS, so take the opportunity for a well-earned snooze in a Grab taxi to wherever you’re going next.
Address: 273/4 Ramkhamhaeng 21 Alley, Phlabphla, Wang Thonglang, Bangkok 10310, Thailand
Beer Hima Seafood
Tucked away beyond Chatuchak in Bangkok’s northern ‘burbs, in an area few farang make it to, Beer Hima Seafood presents a strong case for making the journey with its fish tanks and live crabs on display by the entrance, and the promise of fresh seafood within.
Drawing on family recipes from Nakhon Si Thammarat province, the restaurant specialises in Southern Thai seafood preparations that showcase the region’s bold flavour combinations and love of anything that wears a shell as a jacket or house.
The stir-fried clams with chilli paste and sweet basil are beautifully balanced, a rare thing in a dish that often falls too far on the sweet side. The signature prawns with sator beans demonstrates why this often-misunderstood ingredient is so beloved in Southern Thai cuisine – when treated with respect, as it is here, the bean’s robust stank perfectly balances the sweetness of prawns and the rich undertones of roasted shrimp paste.
Many Bangkokians, however, make the journey for the mantis shrimp with crispy garlic alone. They stay for the restaurant’s creative take on frozen beer – served slushy-style – which provides welcome relief from the heat of the dishes. Sure, this isn’t the kind of place you just stumble across, but it’s certainly one you’ll stumble out of.
Address: 12/12 Thetsaban Songkhro Rd, Lat Yao, Chatuchak, Bangkok 10900, Thailand
Phukej
If you’re looking for a fine dining take on Southern Thai food but you found Sorn’s prohibitively expensive (or, you know, prohibitively full), then Chinatown’s Phukej will see you right.
Sitting pretty in a renovated shophouse five minutes off Yaowarat Road, Phukej (no [sic] required here; that ‘j’ is simply styled after the island’s historical name) offers a contemporary take on Southern Thai cuisine that pays homage to the port city’s unique culinary heritage, weaving together influences from Thai, Chinese and Malay cooking traditions, reflecting Phuket’s history as a maritime trading hub. At the stoves, chef Thapakorn ‘Korn’ Lertviriyavit, formerly of Michelin-starred Nahm and Aksorn, exerts considerable command over the city’s classic dishes, bringing the finesse of those kitchens to the fore.
All of that naturally leads to some seriously fine seafood dishes, perhaps best enjoyed in the signature 11 course set menu – available only at lunch and priced at an eminently reasonable ฿1990 (around £47) per person. A Hoikaddo scallop in a coconut cup (a kind of kueh pie tee/khanom krok mashup) kicks things off in some style, the whole, caramelised bivalve hiding a nugget of fresh pomelo that lightens and lifts the bite. Another early highlight is the golae style mussels, brought to the table mid-grill over individual tao burners and giving off the most enticing aroma of gently caramelising coconut cream. It’s impossible to resist, and worth burning both your fingers and your mouth for.
From the larger plates, the crab curry with betel leaf delivers all the complexity and heat you’ve come to love from the region’s cuisine, but it’s actually a meat dish that represents the restaurant’s signature. Phukej’s interpretation of moo hong (pork belly stew) is that signature – here, the cubes of pork belly are first stewed until tender, and then deep-fried to create an irresistible contrast of textures. It’s an interesting take on a classic, and this far down our roundup, a welcome change from resolutely authentic takes on the Southern Thai repertoire.
For dessert, don’t miss Phukej’s riff on a local favourite – a granita Aiyu jelly with lychee and rose that offers a refined conclusion to what was already an exceptional meal. There’s even a solid wine list for those seeking a break from Singhas on ice.
Address: 730, 732 Mangkon Rd, Pom Prap, Pom Prap Sattru Phai, Bangkok 10100, Thailand
Instagram: @Phukej
In a city blessed with so much excellent Southern Thai food, it can be hard to narrow it down to just a handful of places you should bless with your Baht. But we’ve eaten around the city, and endured (it’s a tough job) the fire, to bring you our favourites. Now, what are yours?
Closer to home, check out our list of the best Thai restaurants in London. Make mine a Thai spicy!
