The idea of crossing an entire country by train holds a particular romance, but in France, it’s also remarkably practical. The country’s TGV network has transformed what was once a gruelling day-long journey into a smooth, comfortable experience that can whisk you from the Belgian border to the Mediterranean in under eight hours.
But speed isn’t everything. This north-to-south route through France offers something far more valuable: a genuine understanding of how this diverse country fits together, from the industrial heritage of the north through the vineyard-covered heartland to the glamorous southern coast.
For British travellers, this journey holds particular appeal. You can leave London St Pancras International on the Eurostar at breakfast (tickets from £39/€44 if booked in advance), lunch in Lille, and be sipping rosé in Nice by sunset the following day (with a civilised overnight stop in Paris or Lyon).
It’s not just the convenience that makes this route special, though. Following France’s spine from north to south reveals the country’s remarkable diversity in architecture, cuisine, landscape and even language. The flat fields around Lille gradually give way to Burgundy’s rolling hills, then Lyon’s river valleys, before the dramatic reveal of the Mediterranean coast. Each region you pass through has its own distinct identity, shaped by centuries of history and geography.
The route also serves as a practical introduction to French rail travel. The mixture of high-speed TGV services and conventional trains means you’ll experience both the cutting-edge efficiency of modern France and the more relaxed pace of regional services. You’ll navigate major stations, discover the French approach to on-board dining, and learn why so many Europeans consider train travel superior to flying for journeys under four hours.
Beginning In Lille
Lille makes sense as a starting point for several reasons. It’s just 80 minutes from London via Eurostar, with frequent connections throughout the day. The city itself rewards exploration, with its Flemish-influenced old town centred around the Grand Place and the imposing Vieille Bourse (old stock exchange). The local speciality, welsh rarebit (yes, really, though the French version involves beer), appears on most brasserie menus, a reminder of the cultural mixing that defines this border region.
Lille has two main stations: Lille Flandres for regional services and Lille Europe for high-speed trains. You’ll want Lille Europe for the TGV south to Paris. The station is modern and efficient, with good cafes and a Paul bakery where you can stock up on sandwiches and pastries for the journey. Trains to Paris leave roughly every hour during peak times, with the journey taking just 62 minutes.
Paris: The Heart Of The Network
Arriving at Paris Gare du Nord, you’ll need to transfer to Gare de Lyon for trains continuing south. This isn’t as daunting as it might sound. The RER D runs directly between the two stations in about 15 minutes (€2.50), though you’ll need to navigate stairs with luggage. A taxi takes 20-30 minutes depending on traffic and costs around €20-22.
If you’re staying overnight in Paris (recommended), the area around Gare de Lyon offers good hotel options. The Ibis Styles Gare de Lyon TGV sits directly above the station, while the Hotel Marais Bastille provides a boutique option within walking distance. For something more characterful, Jules et Jim in the Marais (on Rue des Gravilliers) offers stylish accommodation about 15 minutes from either station.
The station itself deserves exploration. The Train Bleu restaurant, with its 1900s décor, serves traditional French cuisine in spectacular Belle Époque surroundings. Even if you don’t eat there, pop your head in for a look.
For your onward journey, Gare de Lyon’s departure boards can be confusing. Look for trains marked ‘Lyon Part Dieu’ or ‘Marseille St Charles’ rather than trying to find Nice directly, as most services to the Riviera require a change.
Into Burgundy & Beyond
The TGV from Paris to Lyon takes two hours, but the journey feels shorter. Once clear of Paris’s suburbs (about 20 minutes), the train accelerates to its cruising speed of 320 km/h. The ride is remarkably smooth; you can easily walk to the bar car without spilling your coffee.
Between Mâcon and Lyon, keep an eye out for the Roche de Solutré, a dramatic limestone escarpment that rises from the vineyards. This is prime Burgundy territory, producing some of France’s most expensive wines. If you’re tempted to stop, Mâcon-Loché TGV station provides access to the Mâconnais wine region, though you’ll need to arrange onward transport to the vineyards.
France Railways offers various ticket options for this route, including first-class upgrades that include meal service and access to station lounges. It’s worth comparing their prices with SNCF’s own website, as they sometimes have exclusive deals.
Lyon: The Gastronomic Capital & Strategic Hub
Lyon Part-Dieu station is vast and can be overwhelming. If you’re changing trains here, allow at least 30 minutes between services. The station has decent food options, including a Marks & Spencer Simply Food if you’re craving British snacks, but that would be a pretty wild move in a city considered by many to be France’s culinary capital.
For those with time to explore, Lyon’s old town (Vieux Lyon) is 20 minutes away by metro. The traboules (covered passageways) between buildings were once used by silk workers; today they’re tourist attractions. A proper Lyonnais lunch at a bouchon will set you back €25-35 for a set menu including quenelles (fish dumplings), andouillette (not for the faint-hearted), and local wine.
The section between Lyon and Marseille showcases the Rhône Valley. You’ll pass Valence, Montélimar (famous for nougat), and Orange with its Roman theatre. The nuclear power plants along this stretch might not be picturesque, but they’re part of modern France’s reality. South of Avignon, watch for pink flamingos in the Camargue wetlands if you’re lucky.
Read: 8 of the best destinations in France for food and wine lovers
Marseille & The Mediterranean Reveal
Marseille St Charles station sits atop a hill, with sweeping views over the city. The famous 104-step monumental staircase leads down into the city proper. The station has undergone major renovation and now includes decent restaurants and shops, though prices are tourist-level.
The train from Marseille to Nice takes two and a half hours on conventional track, as the high-speed line hasn’t been extended along the coast (and likely never will be, given the terrain). This slower pace is actually beneficial. The route between Toulon and Cannes is genuinely spectacular, hugging the coastline and cutting through the red rocks of the Estérel Massif.
Before booking your complete journey, it’s worth checking Rail Ninja reviews to compare booking platforms. Some offer better cancellation policies than others, which matters given how far in advance you need to book for the best prices.
The Final Stretch To Nice
The approach to Nice showcases the Côte d’Azur at its most dramatic. The train passes through Antibes and Juan-les-Pins, offering glimpses of mega-yachts and beach clubs. Nice-Ville station, with its pink Belle Époque facade, sits in the city centre, about 20 minutes’ walk from the seafront.
Nice’s train connections extend beyond France. The line continues to Monaco (20 minutes) and Ventimiglia in Italy (50 minutes). The Train des Merveilles runs inland from Nice to Tende, climbing into the Alps through spectacular scenery.
Essential Planning Information
Tickets: Book TGV segments at least three weeks in advance for significant savings. A flexible first-class ticket from Paris to Nice can cost €85-150, while advance second-class fares start around €25-45. The Carte Avantage (€49 annually) gives 30% off most fares and can pay for itself in one return journey.
Luggage: French trains don’t have luggage restrictions, but you’ll be lifting bags onto overhead racks or squeezing them into end-of-carriage spaces. Pack light or be prepared to struggle.
Food: TGV bar cars sell sandwiches (€6-8), hot dishes (€9-12), and drinks. The coffee is decent, the wine acceptable. Bringing your own food is perfectly acceptable and often better value. Most stations have a Monop’ or Franprix for supplies. A standout value is the €3 unlimited hot drinks offer – buy a reusable cup and get unlimited refills throughout your journey.
Seat Selection: When booking, you can often choose between upper and lower deck on duplex TGVs. Upper deck offers better views but requires managing stairs with luggage. Solo travellers might prefer the single seats in first class to avoid sitting next to strangers.
Connections: Allow minimum 30 minutes for same-station connections, 90 minutes if changing stations in Paris. The SNCF app provides platform information and real-time updates.
Seasonal Variations: July and August see packed trains and higher prices. The route is particularly pleasant in May-June and September-October. Winter travel is reliable; the TGV rarely suffers weather delays.
The Bottom Line
The complete Lille to Nice journey takes about eight hours of travel time, not counting connections. While possible in one day (departing Lille at 07:25, arriving Nice at 18:49 with changes in Paris and Marseille), this defeats the purpose. Better to break the journey with overnight stops.
A suggested four-day itinerary: Day one, Eurostar to Lille, explore, then evening TGV to Paris. Day two in Paris. Day three, morning train to Lyon, afternoon exploration, evening train to Marseille. Day four, morning coastal train to Nice.
The route works equally well in reverse, though starting in Nice means tackling the best scenery first. Some prefer building up to the Mediterranean climax by starting north, or even tackling the last part of food; the Mediterranean is home to some damn fine hikes, after all.
This journey represents France in microcosm: the industrial north, the cultural heart of Paris, the gastronomic traditions of Lyon, and the Mediterranean allure of the south. It’s a practical route that happens to be spectacular, a commuter service that doubles as one of Europe’s great train journeys. Most importantly, it’s accessible, affordable, and genuinely useful whether you’re travelling the full distance or just connecting two points along the way.
