Sitting south of the river in London’s Southwark lies a food lover’s paradise – Borough Market. With a history dating back over 1,000 years, this bustling market is not only one of the oldest but also one of the largest and most renowned food markets in London. From artisan prepared food to fresh organic produce, Borough Market has something for everyone.
The origins of Borough Market stretches back to at least the 12th century when merchants first started trading grain, fish, vegetables, and livestock near the riverside. Over the centuries, the market thrived and even survived an attempt by Parliament to shut it down in 1775, fearing it had become too lawless.
We’re so glad they did, as today there’s so much to love about the food being sold and served here. Interestingly, Borough Market-as-culinary powerhouse is a fairly recent development, with its current incarnation having roots in the revival of interest in artisan foods that took shape across the UK in the 1990s. The market now mainly sells speciality foods to the general public, attracting tourists and locals alike, with many of the market’s great restaurants opening up in the last few years as footfall increased and savvy restaurateurs took note.
With all that in mind, we’ve done the hard work of eating around, across, through and even over the market to bring you these; our favourite places to eat in Borough Market. Let’s dive in…
Kolae
Ideal for laughably delicious Southern Thai food…
There was little doubt that Kolae was going to be a smash. The second restaurant from the team behind the hugely popular Som Saa in Spitalfields, all the ingredients were there for a hit: chefs with some serious pedigree; a PR blitz of influencers entering the restaurant shouting about that pedigree; strong, inventive cocktails that straddle the far-flung and the familiar; and an Instagrammable, eponymous headlining dish.
And so it has turned out, as Andy Oliver and Mark Dobbie’s second act has garnered rave reviews in pretty much every national newspaper, and for good reason; the food here, this time with a firmer focus on the flavours of Southern Thailand specifically, is laughably delicious. Really, you will be laughing, involuntarily, capsaicin-fuelled endorphins rushing over you as you drag a frilly Shrub radicchio leaf through the pungent, addictive shrimp paste relish.
Turn to the headlining dish to soothe you. Kolae is a method of grilling with origins in Thailand’s predominantly Muslim Pattani province close to the border with Malaysia, where, traditionally, chicken or seafood is marinated in a coconut and turmeric-heavy curry paste before being grilled low and slow, the curry paste catching and caramelising invitingly as more curry is used to baste.
At Kolae, the coconut cream for the dish – here most commonly done with skewers of mussel, chicken and squash – is handpressed daily, and you can taste that freshness in the final dish, which is a complex, rich, deeply satisfying affair. Pair it with the even more Instagrammable crispy prawn heads, showered with deep-fried turmeric and garlic in the style of Southern Thailand’s pla tod kamin, a salad and a stir fry, and you’ve got yourself a sharing spread that you won’t actually want to share a single bite of. And beer, of course. Plenty of beer…
Though the restaurant is spread over three floors, you’ll want to take a seat at the counter if possible, and watch the chefs working the woks and grill. Just watch out for our eyebrows while you’re here – there are some serious flames licking up. It’s all part of the fun though!
Website: kolae.com
Address: 6 Park St, London SE1 9AB
Akara
Ideal for casual yet sophisticated West African dining…
Speaking of second-acts that have recently opened in Borough Market and have already received a string of fawning national restaurant reviews, Akara has, well, done all of those things too…
Indeed, the British Nigerian entrepreneur Aji Akokomi has already tasted huge success with his inaugural restaurant Akoko, the recent recipient of a well-deserved Michelin star, and here he is aiming to shake up London’s West African dining scene further with Akara.
This new venture located in the not-quite-there-yet Borough Yards brings a casual yet sophisticated dining experience that pays homage to traditional flavours of the region while embracing modern culinary techniques. The restaurant’s namesake dish, akara – a delectable fritter made from blended black-eyed peas, seasoned and fried to golden perfection – is a testament to Akokomi’s commitment to celebrating the essence of West African food culture, and forms the backbone of the menu.
Here, the approach to akara is distinctive in that it pulls from both Nigerian akara osu and Brazilian acaraje, resulting in a crisp exterior and generous, premium fillings. The barbecued prawn akara is perhaps the highlight, a gorgeous looking thing that arrives with bun splayed open in the style of a Roman maritozzi, but instead of an obscene amount of cream, the filling is blushing red prawns, pickled pink onion petals and chives. It’s picture perfect and tastes even better than it looks. You’ll want to order several.
From the larger plates section of the menu, the picanha suya is the main draw, a blushing piece of rump steak with the kind of bark that only expert grill work can coax out, its suya rub having caught beautifully on the coals. A sweet pepper sauce soothes out the rough edges and sees the dish on its merry way. This one paired well with a glass of fresh, elegant rosé (a Volubilia Gris from Morocco), though the scotch bonnet cordial from the softs section also caught our eye. Next time, next time…
Website: akaralondon.co.uk
Address: Arch 208, 18 Stoney St, London SE1 9AD
Berenjak Borough
Ideal for Tehran-inspired plates in the heart of London…
The second iteration of the celebrated restaurant Berenjak remains faithful to its aim of reinterpreting the classic hole in the wall eateries lining the streets of Tehran, but somehow, this Borough Market rendition manages to be just as good (if not, whisper it, better) than the first.
Housed in the building that used to host Flor, the rooms, both upstairs and down, are gorgeous; sumptuously dressed and opulent whilst still maintaining a sense of subtle sophistication.
You could describe the food in much the same way, quite frankly. Though the kebabs that come complete with freshly grilled bread are no doubt the headlining act, it’s in the starters that the sumptuousness and opulence truly stands out. A black chickpea and walnut hummus, in particular, is so rich and silky that it could easily be mistaken for chicken liver parfait. It’s absolutely gorgeous.
From the carnivore’s section of the menu, the chelow kabab chenjeh (marinated, barbecued Herdwick lamb fillet) is given hum and throb by a grilled garlic salad, which is the perfect foil for the surprisingly delicate meat.
Sadly, the Soho branch’s iconic baklava ice cream sandwich hasn’t made the jump south of the river, but the napeloni – puff pastry with an orange blossom custard – is a very capable finisher regardless.
This is a place we’ll be returning to, time and time again.
Address: 27 Romilly St, London W1D 5AL, United Kingdom >
Website: berenjaklondon.com
Rambutan
Ideal for sampling superb Sri Lankan food at one of London’s best recent openings…
From soft-serve ice cream slinger to celebrated Sri Lankan restaurant owner, chef Cynthia Shanmugalingam’s Borough Market journey has been nothing short of seismic.
It’s easy to see why. There’s something about Rambutan, from it’s open fire kitchen and warming terracotta walls all the way to its intoxicating, sometimes scorching small plates, that’s just so enveloping, the heat of service and the warmth of hospitality here creating something akin to thermal energy in the dining room.
Rambutan’s menu reads beautifully, filled with punchy dishes that celebrate ingredients sourced from both Sri Lanka and Borough Market, creating a synergistic sense of place and time, of locality and authenticity, whether it’s in the already iconic creamy coconut, lemongrass and pandan dal or the piquant, pert, powerful red curry with prawn and tamarind, which hails from Sri Lanka’s north. We’re big fans of her cashew curry; a luxuriously creamy, marvellously nutty affair, and a lesson in Sri Lankan cuisine’s mastery of texture.
Despite what a thousand fire emojis might have you believe, it’s certainly not all chilli heat here. The signature black pork curry, in fact, gets its rasping, back-of-the-throat heat from black pepper, and its intrigue from a heady roasted spice mix that features coriander, clove and much more besides. Taken just to the edge of bitterness, and visually alluring in its moody depth, it tastes both complex and familiar, the pork belly’s fat smoothing out the rougher edges.
Even more alluring is the deep fried roti with anchovy katta sambal, which eats as well as it reads, that sambal fresh and vivacious from plenty of pounded red chilli. Indeed, as you step into Rambutan, you’ll be greeted by the sound of chefs skilfully slapping roti at the open kitchen counter, with that vantage point offering a front-row stool to see the action unfolding.
Make sure you ring in several of those rotis – cooked over small, portable aduppu grills – for pulling through the silky red curry from two paragraphs prior. It’s already one of the single most satisfying bites in the city.
Cool it down with a round of Rambutan’s thoughtfully composed soft drinks (the ceylon and lime ice tea is particularly good), finish with a scoop of that delectable soft serve, and leave happy.
Address: 10 Stoney St, London SE1 9AD
Website: rambutanlondon.co.uk
Bao Borough
Ideal for the usual superlative Taiwanese small plates, with a side order of karaoke thrown in for good measure…
Bao Borough is the only outpost found south of the river of the cult London restaurant group Bao, whose success has been founded on serving Instagrammable, insanely good steamed gua bao buns and other contemporary takes on the street food of Taiwan.
The inspiration here comes from the late night grill houses of Taiwan, with the speciality of this particular house the 40 day aged beef over butter rice, which is as obscenely indulgent and umami-rich as is physically possible in a single small plate.
Though this particular branch only takes bookings for large groups, but service is prompt and the food fast; as such, you’ll likely land a coveted seat pretty quickly if you walk in.
Oh, and there’s even a bookable private karaoke room, with a capacity for 14 people and plenty of delicious snacks brought to you mid-song.
Address: 13 Stoney St, London SE1 9AD
Website: baolondon.com
El Pastor
Ideal for tacos, tequila and top times…
Just across the road from Borough Market is El Pastor, a re-imagining of a traditional Mexican taqueria from Harts Group, the restaurateurs behind Barrafina.
This is a convivial, carnival-like space, make no mistake, and one of the best places to eat in Borough Market. The food is excellent, particularly the beef short rib and bone marrow wraps, served to be shared in an assemble-it-yourself style. If you want to walk on the lighter side of the menu, don’t miss the tuna tostadas. Mezcal washes everything down and sends you on your way a little wavier than when you arrived.
Address: 7A Stoney St, London SE1 9AA
Website: tacoselpastor.co.uk
Turnips
Ideal for small plates dictated by what’s fresh in Borough Market’s greengrocer…
Sitting slap bang beneath the historic arches of Borough Market, Turnips is a farm-to-fork restaurant that celebrates the best of British produce and microseasonality in this most esteemed – yet refreshingly casual – of surrounds.
A family-run greengrocer by day, Turnips is also a lunch and dinner, fine-dining affair Tuesday through Saturday, with a kind of symbiotic relationship between kitchen and crates, between diner and shopper, and between grower and gourmand.
With chef Tomas Lidakevicius at the helm, Turnips is testament to the power of exceptional produce treated with respect. The restaurant offers both small plates and a tasting menu, with dishes on the latter led by a single ingredient; think ‘Beetroot’ as a headliner with both cured hake and caviar the supporting acts, or a dish of ‘Italian Aubergine’ that’s underpinned by lamb. Yep, they certainly want to remind you that the greengrocers dictates the cooking here, but that’s fine by us when the results are this good…
It shouldn’t surprise those familiar with Lidakevicius’s work, the chef having honed his skills in some of London’s finest restaurants, including Michelin-starred City Social, before taking the reins here, a master of transforming simple vegetables into extraordinary dishes.
Turnips is open for lunch and dinner from Tuesday to Friday, with all-day service on Saturdays. Reservations are highly recommended, as this popular spot tends to fill up quickly, both with curious passers-by and those who have made the trip across town or even country.
Address: 43, Borough Market, London SE1 9AH
Website: turnipsboroughmarket.com
Roast
Ideal for modern British cooking enjoy from a vintage vantage point…
Visitors to London’s Borough Market should all be well trained in the art of feigning interest in the name of garnering a tiny sample of something – whether it be a truffle infused Old Spot salami, Davidstow cheddar or Forman & Son’s smoked salmon.
There comes a point though, when the legs get weary, the bluffing half-hearted and the crowds too obstructive to cultivate any sense of brio, when you’d really love someone to take the great British produce of the market and beyond, and cook you a damn good meal. Roast, housed above the market, uses the best of the country, season and location to do just that.
Check out our full review of Roast here.
Address: The Floral Hall, Stoney St, London SE1 1TL
Website: roast-restaurant.com
Tapas Brindisa
Ideal for tortilla, tarta and that chorizo roll…
London Bridge’s Tapas Brindisa, open since 2004, was the first branch of this all-conquering restaurant group, and was serving up delectable, gossamer-thin slices of jamón ibérico de bellota and its iconic chorizo rolls long before London became well-versed in tortilla española, pimientos de padrón, and the rest.
Though this inaugural Brindisa doesn’t take reservations (all other branches do), you can enter their queue ‘virtually’ via their website, which means, if you time your arrival just right, you won’t have to wait around. If you do find yourself at the back of the queue with a spare few, there’s a pub opposite, as well as a Brindisa Shop in Borough Market itself.
Address: 18-20 Southwark St, London SE1 1TJ, United Kingdom
Website: brindisakitchens.com
Tacos Padre
Ideal for a protein-led take on Mexican streetfood…
Tacos Padre, a stall inside Borough Market slinging out some truly superb tacos, is the second most recent opening on our list, but one which has felt right at home in this corner of London right from the off.
Chef Nick Fitzgerald has some serious credentials within the world of Mexican food; he’s previously worked at Mexico City’s Pujol, consistently named the best Mexican restaurant in the world, as well as London’s excellent Breddos Tacos.
At Padre, the tortillas are made fresh daily- a must if you’re to call yourself the ‘daddy’ – with tacos generously adorned with slow-braised, super-unctuous meaty fillings (or should that be ‘toppings’? Who knows).
Yep, it really is all about the meat here, with the beef suadero spun through with aged beef fat bringing so much mouthfeel it’s a vaguely erotic experience. The pork cochinita is similarly arousing.
Though it’s a largely stand-and-lean affair at lunchtimes, with a reduced ‘taqueria’ style menu holding people upright, in the evening Tacos Padre spreads its wings a little, with tables set up outside the stall and a fuller spread on offer. Whichever time you choose to rock up, you will be fed very well here.
Address: The Borough Market Kitchen Padre, Winchester Walk, Jubilee, London SE1 9AG
Website: tacospadre.com
Wright Brothers Oyster & Porter House
Ideal for a seafood extravaganza on the outskirts of the market…
Finally, you’ll find us dining with the Wright Brothers (also in Borough Market), whose dedication to seafood, and particularly oysters, marks the restaurant out in a field crowded with great dining options.
The menu is simple; a list of specials, nearly all fish, sensitively cooked with great respect for the premium product at hand. This is the only way to cook fish this fresh, and we love it.
The best seat in the house is, conversely, not in the house, but rather, out front, perched around one of the restaurant’s barrel tables, with a plate of half dozen oysters and crisp glass of Albariño balanced precariously, watching the world go by. In fact, we think we might stay here a while…
Website: thewrightbrothers.co.uk
Address: Borough Market, Stoney St, London SE1 9AD
Speaking of Borough Market, we’re off next on a food tour of 10 IDEAL food markets in London. Care to join us?
