For those who haven’t had the pleasure of slurping down a bowl of the Northern Thailand’s most famous dish (those is white shirts; be careful of the turmeric), Khao Soi is a rich, deep, yet surprisingly mild coconut curry broth that is one of life’s great crowd-pleasers, pure and simple.
Made with a heady dry spice mix, tender braised meat, and noodles, both fresh and deep-fried, it’s a bowl of contrasting texture and give, of sweet and spicy, assertive but comforting. The ubiquitous accompaniments of pickled mustard greens, chilli oil and sliced shallots seal the deal, as if we needed any more convincing.
There’s not many places in Bangkok whose khao soi stands up to a Chiang Mai version. But Ong Tong Khao Soi established their name first in Thailand’s second city before bringing their superb Lanna food to the capital. Regardless of location, they do the famous coconut and curry broth as good as anywhere in the country. And, therefore, in the world…
If you’re wondering where to eat Northern Thai food in Bangkok, then this one’s for you. Though Lanna food in Bangkok is perhaps unrepresented compared to the country’s other regional cuisines, this place is humming every day of the week.
The restaurant serves several other northern classics like the hugely satisfying range of chilli based relishes known as nahm phrik and the region’s version laap salad, making Ong Tong a must visit for those wanting to try the food of Thailand’s north without leaving Bangers. Speaking of bangers, their sai ua, a spicy herbal sausage, is every bit as complex, aromatic and delicious as you’d get up in Chiang Mai. It is, in a word, erm…banging.
Be sure to order their puu ong, too; a local northern delicacy made of the little crabs found in rice paddies. Inside the shell isa creamy, luxurious mixture of egg yolk and brown crab. Wash it all down with a chilled glass of lemongrass and pandan leaf tea, and it’s job done.
There are several branches of Ongtong Khao Soi across Bangkok, including the original (and most central) restaurant in Ari, as well as outposts in The Circle Ratchapruk and Centralplaza Ladprao.