Established in the early part of the 20th Century by the Italian businessman Peppino Leoni, this iconic restaurant and private members club has seen many transformations over the years, from its early days as a notorious brothel to being the home of Karl Marx, who began writing Das Kapital within its walls.
Today, Quo Vadis – or the ‘Grand Old Dame of Dean St’ as some like to call it – continues to evolve, with a significant refurbishment earlier this year doubling its capacity to 40 covers and heralding its return to a grander, more spacious public restaurant.
Some constants remain, though, and the beating heart of the modern day Quo Vadis isn’t as much the building, per se, as the renowned, charismatic chef behind the last decade of evolution, Jeremy Lee.
Lee, a tall Scottish cook with a passion for regional British produce, has been at the helm of Quo Vadis since 2012. Known for his bold and generous culinary creations, Lee is a rare phenomenon in the London food world – a chef universally adored for his dedication to simple, delicious food. With the voice of a thespian and the culinary generosity of the old French masters, Lee has made Quo Vadis very much his own.
Thankfully, the new look Quo Vadis hasn’t led to a complete reworking of Lee’s signature dishes; the smoked eel and pink pickled onion sandwich is still here and still bloody satisfying. It’s undeniably one of London’s most iconic dishes.
Then there’s always a pie – golden, pastry bottom intact, filled generously – on the menu. Whether it’s chicken, lamb, beef, or game, it will probably be the best pie you’ll ever eat.
Desserts – or, puddings, rather – are, unsurprisingly, as good as ever; if it’s on the menu don’t miss out on the simultaneously nostalgic but grown-up rice pudding served with rhubarb and pistachio. Come summer, you’re likely to find a sprightly lemon tart and as the months progress, a soothing sticky toffee pudding, which is worth visiting the restaurant for alone. As in, on your own; this is one you want to spend some intimate time with.
Of course, part of the appeal of Quo Vadis are the larger rooms upstairs designed for intimate (or, let’s face it, debauched, group dining). This legendary restaurant boasts not one, not two, but three private dining rooms on its second floor, with a capacity of over thirty guests in each. Whether you’re planning an octogenarian’s birthday celebration or an orgy, this is the space for you.
Address: 26-29 Dean St, London W1D 3LL
Website: quovadissoho.co.uk