Located at 49 Dean Street, this historic pub and dining room has been a beloved Soho institution since its inception in 1891. Originally known as the York Minster, it was run by Victor and Gaston Berlemont, a Belgian father and son duo, from 1914 to 1989. The name was changed to ‘The French House’ after the fire at York Minster in 1984, and it has since become a popular haunt for artists, writers, and food enthusiasts alike.
Today, The French House is helmed by the talented chef Neil Borthwick, who brings his extensive culinary experience to the table. Before taking over the reins at The French House, Borthwick worked at prestigious establishments such as The Connaught, where he met his wife, chef and national treasure Angela Hartnett, and Merchants Tavern, which he co-founded with Hartnett. His impressive resume also includes stints at Gordon Ramsay’s restaurant and under renowned chef Michel Bras.
The dining room at The French House has a storied past, having been opened by Fergus and Margot Henderson in 1992. Fergus later left to establish the iconic St. John restaurant in Smithfield, while Margot continued to run the dining room for several years with Melanie Arnold. Over the years, the dining room has seen the likes of Anna Hansen as head chef and even hosted Polpetto by Florence Knight. Those are some serious shoes to fill, but rest assured, chef Neil Borthwick has bloody massive feet.
Borthwick’s culinary prowess is evident in the hearty, fuss-free French cuisine served at The French House. On our last visit, a baked scallop the size of your palm, bathed in wild garlic butter and a reduction of vermouth, was exquisite. A foie gras terrine, served with a particularly rich slice of brioche (even by brioche’s usual well-to-do standards), was even better.
Yep, it’s that kind of place; one where you’ll need to be carried out, either because of a heart attack or that you’ve drank too much. Regardless, you’ll be leaving happy.
Address: 49 Dean St, London W1D 5BG
