Embarking on the Camino Frances – an ancient pilgrim path across the north of the Iberian Peninsula and the most famous of the nine major Camino de Santiago routes – is not just a journey for the soul. It’s also a gastronomic adventure that tantalises the taste buds and fills the belly with joy. If you know where to look, that is…
As you traverse the scenic landscapes of Northern Spain, from the Pyrenees to the historic climax in Santiago de Compostela, you’ll encounter a batiburrillo of culinary delights that are as integral to the pilgrimage as the walk itself. Not only for fuel, or distraction, even, but also for the soul-nourishing, life-affirming quality of a good feed…
So, lace up your boots, pilgrims, and let’s hit the road. Here are the best restaurants along the Camino Frances.
But First, Just How Long Does It Take To Walk The Camino Frances In Its Entirety?
Embarking on the Camino Frances isn’t merely a stroll in the park; it’s a commitment to a journey that weaves through the heart of Spain’s rich landscapes and history. The entire route, stretching approximately 780 kilometres from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in France to Santiago de Compostela in Spain, is a path trodden by many seeking spiritual, personal, or cultural enlightenment.
On average, it takes about 30 to 35 days to complete the Camino Frances, assuming one walks around 25 kilometres per day. However, this is not set in stone. Some pilgrims, fuelled by fervour (and perhaps a smattering of bravado), may traverse it in a shorter span, while others prefer to take it slow, savouring the journey over 40 days or more.
Some may even choose to walk the more comfortable sections and take a self-driving tour of Northern Spain’s more challenging terrain. It’s not a race or an endurance test, after all.
The time it takes can vary widely depending on individual pace, weather conditions, physical ability, and the desire to linger in the charming towns and villages along the way. Some may choose to cover more ground each day, while others may decide to rest for a full day or two, allowing for a more leisurely pace and time to recover.
It’s essential to listen to your body and walk at a pace that’s comfortable for you. After all, the Camino is as much about the journey as it is the destination. Whether you’re in it for the challenge, the camaraderie, or the culinary delights, the Camino Frances offers a unique experience that unfolds at the rhythm of your own footsteps.
Anyway, we’re in this thing for the latter, so let’s eat…
The Beginning: Saint Jean Pied de Port
A Traditional Basque Breakfast in Saint Jean Pied de Port
Ideal for energising breakfasts…
The Camino Frances kicks off with a bit of an uphill challenge, setting the tone for things to come, but what better way to fuel up than with a hearty breakfast? In the quaint French village of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, you’ll find traditional eateries serving up dishes that will set you up for the day’s trek. Don’t miss out on the local cheeses and gateau Basque – yes, that’s cheesecake for breakfast, a sweet treat that’s worth every calorie that you’ll soon be burning off on your walk.
A Michelin Meal at El Molino de Urdániz, Navarre
Ideal for modern interpretations of traditional Spanish and Navarrese dishes…
Next, we’re crossing the border into Spain, into Roncesvalles and onwards to the verdant valleys of Navarre, where you’ll find one of the country’s most coveted tables, El Molino de Urdániz.
More than just a stop along the Camino Frances, the restaurant is a destination that beckons gourmands with its siren song. This 2 Michelin star establishment, helmed by the visionary Chef David Yárnoz, offers an avant-garde take on traditional Navarrese cuisine.
The restaurant’s tasting menus are designed to take diners on a gastronomic journey through textures, flavours, and aromas, often with a surprise element to enhance the dining experience. Expect a variety of creatively presented courses all crafted with a blend of modern techniques and regional culinary traditions.
Indeed, El Molino de Urdániz is not just a meal; it’s an experience that will linger on your palate and in your memories long after you’ve resumed your pilgrimage. It’s a testament to the transformative power of food and a reminder that sometimes, the Camino offers up its own form of enlightenment on the plate.
Walk off that elaborate, multi-course tasting menu on the three hour walk south west, down into world famous Pamplona…
A Casual Bite at A Pamplona Pintxos Bar
Ideal for pintxos lovers…
Ah, Pamplona… Famous for its running of the bulls and as a resting point along the Camino Frances, but let’s not forget the city’s Michelin-starred offerings like Rodero and Europa, where contemporary twists on Basque cooking will leave you spellbound.
That said, if you’re seeking an authentic (and, let’s face it, affordable) taste of the region, then Pamplona is home to some superb tapas and pintxos bars. Arguably the best is El Merca’o, a gently contemporary take on the Basque tradition of pintxos; small snacks and finger food often served atop a slice of baguette and skewered with a toothpick. Also well worth checking out for this cherished local culinary tradition are Gaucho and Guría.
For an even more casual bite, indulge in a bocadillo filled with Spanish chorizo or Serrano ham – simple yet oh-so-satisfying.
Anyway, we’re stuffed. Onwards…
Fine Dining at Venta Moncalvillo, Daroca de Rioja
Ideal for fine wine and even finer dining…
100 kilometres (and several days of strolling) south west, tucked away in the quaint village of Daroca de Rioja, is Venta Moncalvillo, a restaurant that represents a true pilgrimage destination for foodies. With two Michelin stars to its name, this family-run establishment offers an intimate dining experience amidst vineyards and olive groves. The menu is a love letter to Riojan cuisine, and the wine list? Well, let’s just say it’s extensive enough to make Dionysus jealous.
Time now for a stumble 40 kilometres west, to Los Caballeros. Perhaps make a night of it, hey?
Regional Specialites at Los Caballeros, Santo Domingo del Calzada
Ideal for a feast in a historic building…
Step into Los Caballeros in Santo Domingo del Calzada, and you might just feel like you’ve been transported back to mediaeval times – minus the jousting. This place offers a dining experience fit for royalty, or, at the least, hungry pilgrims. Whether you’re craving traditional Spanish cuisine or something a bit more contemporary, Los Caballeros has got you covered, with the restaurant’s cod dishes very much the speciality of the house here. And the ambiance? Chivalrously charming, of course…
The Middle: Burgos
The Pilgrim’s Menu
Ideal for a taste of local life…
As you amble the 70km walk from Santo Domingo del Calzada to Burgos, take a moment to savour the local flavours. The Pilgrim’s Menu, often served at albergues (a humble hostel usually with a small restaurant attached) along the way, offers a three-course meal complete with bread and wine. It’s a chance to rest those weary feet and refuel with dishes like lentil stew and Pimientos de Padrón.
Restaurante Sergi Vidal, Burgos
Ideal for contemporary Spanish cuisine…
After a taste of humble, local specials, it’s time for something modern and that’s exactly what you get at Restaurante Sergi Vidal. Here Barcelona-born chef Sergi Vidal is serving up dishes like crab gyozas, scallop tataki and lamb carnitas alongside warming Burgos-style beef tripe stew. This is contemporary Spanish cooking that will leave you wanting more.
Of course, when in Burgos, do as the Burgaleses do – indulge in a cut of beef that will make your heart sing (and possibly your arteries whimper) and you can do that here at Restaurante Sergi Vidal, too. And if the blushing beef alone doesn’t win you over, the serious wine list surely will. Dress code? Pfft, come as you are and enjoy the feast.
Coscolo, Astorga
Ideal for the sweet tooth…
48 hours of walking onwards, and you’ll come to Astorga, which you’ll be pleased to hear is a haven for foodies, with its famous cocido maragato stew and chocolates -chocolate manufacturing was one of the main industries of Astorga and a must is the chocolate museum in town.
If you’re feeling like a proper sit down meal, detour to Coscolo, a rustic Bib Gourmand restaurant, or La Lechería for classic cuisine with a modern twist. And for dessert? Astorga’s cakes are a must-try. Try picking a favourite between ‘Mantecados’ which are small spongy, buttery cakes and ‘Hojaldres’ which are sweet sticky puffy pastries with a hole in the middle.
Octopus at Pulperia Luis, Sarria
Ideal for seafood savants…
As you near the end of your journey, Sarria offers a bustling food scene where you can enjoy quintessential Galician fare, including the region’s iconic octopus dishes, as well as empanadas, before making your final push to Santiago.
In Sarria, there’s a place where octopus is not just food; it’s a revelation. Pulperia Luis is renowned among Camino veterans as the best spot to indulge in pulpo a la gallega. It’s a no-frills joint where the star of the show is tender, paprika-dusted octopus, served on wooden platters. Just be sure to get there before 4:30pm, or you’ll miss out on this divine cephalopod experience.
The End: Santiago de Compostela
You’ve made it! Santiago de Compostela is not just the culmination of your spiritual journey; it’s a treasure trove of culinary wonders and, also, an excuse to celebrate your achievement with a seriously generous spread.
With everything ranging from fine dining restaurants to humble tapas bars, you’ll be spoilt for choice here. Perhaps our favourite spot of all, though, is Casa Marcelo…
Casa Marcelo, Santiago de Compostela
Ideal for a fine fusion of Galician and Japanese flavours
If you’re the type who likes to celebrate milestones with a bang or, in this case, an explosion of flavours, then Casa Marcelo is your go-to spot.
Sitting slap-bang in the heart of Santiago, and just a stone’s throw from the majestic cathedral, this Michelin-starred gem marries Galician tradition with Japanese finesse. Do be aware that the restaurant is a popular choice for pilgrims looking to toast their journey, and you’ll need to book ahead accordingly to snag a spot at this culinary hotspot.
The Bottom Line
As you wander the Camino Frances, remember that each meal is a chapter in your travelling tale. From the simplest sandwich to the most elaborate Michelin-starred restaurant, the food you’ll encounter is a reflection of the regions’ rich history and culture. So, eat well, pilgrim, for the road is long, and the flavours are endless. Buen Camino and even better eats!