There are two types of people in this world; those who long to live the louche, luxuriant life of the urbane Parisien; and liars. You’ll find the truth-tellers – well, those with enough money to occasionally live out their fantasies anyway – in the exclusive 7th arrondissement of France’s capital. Look a little harder, scratch the surface a little more thoroughly, and it’s in Le Cinq Codet you’ll find them housed.
IDEA
Close to La Rive Gauche, in both proximity and sense of bohemia, lies this urban sophisticate’s dream. Le Cinq Codet is a privately owned hotel with retreat at its core, exuding cool luxury and grace. There is an understated pride here, of being one of Paris’ best kept secrets, and a confident rejection of the more opulent, statement showiness of hotels found north of the river. Although service is attentive and all needs are very much met, you have the power to be anonymous here. It’s like wearing a designer suit with the label hidden in the lining, and we love it.
LOCATION
The 7th arrondissement is Paris’ hippest and most swank borough. Supported by École Militaire metro station, and with the Eiffel tower in the hotel’s sights, Le Cinq Codet is truly in the heart of things, just a beat away from all atriums and ventricles of the most romantic city on Earth.
STYLE & CHARACTER
Unassuming yet proud from the outside, the wrap around facade with double-height windows resembles the noble bow of some illustrious vessel. When you step inside, the reception is light and airy, with blonde wood and minimalist furniture calling to mind the interior of an ultra-exclusive sushi bar. The gentle, professional welcome continues that theme of Japanese class.
Art is a big feature here, with original works showcased within, and bespoke furniture giving brave pops of colour, all adding up to an interior of concise and careful curation. The design is overseen by Jean-Philippe Nuel and we doubt it is, or could be, imitated elsewhere. A note here, then, about the pleasure of being somewhere unique and not damaged by the standardisation of larger chain hotels. There is a personality to the Le Cinq Codet, and one which makes you feel as though the experience is all your own; individuality cherished and seemingly made to measure.
The 1930s architecture of subtle, luxurious curves is complemented by the introduction of tall, vast windows, which look down on an interior courtyard. We are told the decision to install double-height windows was a very deliberate move; one intended to favour the generosity of space over cramming in more rooms. It’s certainly worked, giving the hotel an abundant freshness of natural light but without the noise of the busy roads below; a harmony replete and resonant throughout the place.
We visit in late September, when the hotel is in the throes of its Super Green Exhibition, as part of Paris Design Week and curated by Emily Marant, which informs much of the art on display at the time. The aim is to affect a feeling of natural rhythm, of greater mindfulness in our interactions with our surrounds, and to encourage questions about where the natural environment ends and the manmade begins.
ROOMS
There are 67 rooms in total, many of which are two tiered, with the lower floor dedicated to a living space and the higher, mezzanine-like level playing host to a bed and bathtub. The high ceilings and aforementioned double-height windows are exploited to great effect here. The atmosphere of quiet and private urban living shines through in these duplex style apartment rooms. It’s certainly less hotel, more city-break getaway.
The lights take some getting used to, with more switches and settings than most houses could lay claim to, and the same goes for the electric blinds, which require a manual to master. The quality of those blinds, though, once figured out – combined with the serenity of the courtyard below – makes for a very pleasant, undisturbed lie-in, owing to their unwavering integrity to blocking out any light.
The rooms boast two mini-mac T.Vs with a fine selection of film and other entertainment. Most extraordinary is the large bath tub parallel to the bed; you could literally slide off the end of the bed and into the bath, if that’s your thing (it’s certainly ours). The actual bathroom downstairs is compact but does everything you need it to.
FACILITIES
The spa, jacuzzi, gym,outdoor whirlpool jacuzzi and Hamman treatment room are fitting of the cinq-star accreditation of the hotel; enough said. On the ground floor, there’s a communal space for meetings, espresso or cocktails, and a noteworthy afternoon tea takes place from 4-6pm with cakes baked each day by Chef Antoine. As any place of this repute and standing should, Le Cinq Codet also boasts a knowledgeable concierge, who pointed us in the direction of a fine creperie for a spot of lunch.
FOOD & DRINK
We try out the restaurant for dinner, and in harmony with the exhibition currently on display, the chef has devised a Super Green menu. The idea is of tricking the mind, of questioning perceptions of authenticity, particularly of nature and the manmade. Whilst sounding a little far-fetched and dare we say, pretentious where food is concerned, the Chef largely manages to pull it off.
There’s ‘iced cauliflower’ which plays with temperature and texture interestingly, the all white colour and frozen nature of the dish clashing – intentionally, of course – with the earthiness of the vegetable and the warm, curry notes. It mostly works, but there’s just too much of it, and it’s a tad too sickly for a starter. Full marks for effort though. The mains offer ‘poultry and orchard’, which is visually impressive, the knowing touch of ‘growing out of the plate’ very much cultivated to full effect here. Finally, dessert is the most straightforward realisation of the altered perception theme; what at first appears to be an apple turns out to be raspberry granita encased in a sphere of white chocolate, which has then been spray painted to look like an apple. Exciting stuff.
After all this frenzy, I’m half expecting to bite into my croissant at breakfast and find it’s a pig’s trotter or something, but rest assured, the morning spread is a more pedestrian affair. There’s rich, dark coffee, a fine selection of teas and pastries, as well as an egg station, on request – all you ever need, if you ask me. Which you are.
WHY GO
Fantasies of living life like a true French socialite, in quiet and understated luxury, should all be housed here. The true appeal of the place lies in its sense of privacy, of its exploitation of space to give a sense of generosity, and of course its art, which moves and grooves to the rhythm of the city. If you fancy playing the graceful, complex Parisien for the length of a weekend getaway, please look no further than Le Cinq Codet.
Disclosure: IDEAL stayed as a guest of the hotel