The transformation of Bath’s restaurant scene, from one dominated by chains and tea rooms to one of the South’s culinary powerhouses, has been nothing short of astounding.
Just a decade ago, only those hungry punters craving a Cornish pasty, sausage roll or scone would have been truly satisfied, but recent years have seen a slew of independent, forward-thinking eateries opening in the city, and we’re very much here for it.
No, really, we’re very much here, strolling the honeyed streets in search of a good feed. If you’re in the city centre doing the same, then you’ve come to the right place, cause we’ve got a whole 22 recommendations here for you, some fancy some frugal, but all very much delicious. Here are the best places to eat in Bath; our IDEAL 22 restaurants in Bath.
Upstairs At Landrace, Walcot Street
Ideal for light yet generous plates of produce-led Britalian dishes…
Yep, we said that many of Bath’s best restaurants are relatively recent additions to the city, and this is certainly true for Upstairs at Landrace, which emerged during lockdown, found its feet fast, and, thankfully, appears to be sticking around for the long haul.
Housed above the excellent Landrace Bakery, which specialises in sourdough bread made using stoneground British grains, the kitchen up that winding staircase is led by former Brawn and Quality Chop House chef Rob Sachdev, who brings a similarly straightforward sensibility to the cooking here.
The menu comprises a handful of snacks and starters and a couple of larger plates, with the cheddar fritters from the former section already reaching something close to cult status. It’s easy to see why; pillowy, giving and nestled under blankets of finely grated local cheese, they are seriously, seriously addictive. One plate simply isn’t enough.
From the larger dishes, deceptively simple, perfectly-cooked portions of fish are paired with hyper-seasonal veg; on our last visit, and as the autumn winds began to blow, a tranche of Brixham brill with braised borlotti beans and late summer tomatoes was superb. For something packing a touch more heft, rump steak or pork chops regularly appear on the ever-rotating menu. That said, right now and with game season in full flight, a dish of spatchcock partridge over romesco sauce sounds like just the ticket. Next time, next time…
Desserts are exemplary, with the skills of the bakery below on full display. Should there be a tart on the menu – we’ve enjoyed both Amalfi lemon and a pear, prune and almond number in recent months – order it.
All in all, Upstairs at Landrace manages to be both light and breezy, and eminently satisfying. Right now, it’s our favourite restaurant in Bath, and long may that continue.
PS. You’re in for a real surprise when you visit the toilet!
Website: landracebakery.com
Address: 61B, UPSTAIRS, Walcot St, Bath BA1 5BN
The Scallop Shell, Monmouth Place
Ideal for Marco Pierre White-approved fish and chips…
Though nominally a fish and chips restaurant, the Scallop Shell, on Bath’s Monmouth Place, is so much more than that. Opened seven years ago and already superchef Marco Pierre White’s favourite restaurant in the area, this place is always packed and it’s easy to see why; fish is sourced sustainably, cooked simply yet thoughtfully, the vibe is cheerful and the service smooth. That’s all you could ask for, right?
And though their fish’n’chip offerings are certainly delicious, there’s also a regularly updated menu of other, arguably more interesting, options; whole fish (a whopping sea bass for two on our last visit) blistered and burnished by the grill and bathed in anchovy butter, steamed mussels or clams depending on the catch, grilled scallops in their shell, all served swimming in garlic butter, smoked sardines on toast… You get the picture.
Also of note, during weekday lunches diners can enjoy the restaurant’s ‘Fisherman’s Lunch’, which sees a portion of fish and chips, homemade mushy peas, tartare sauce and nice big mug of Yorkshire tea priced at a keenly priced – really, really keenly priced – £12.50. Yes, just £12.50.
All in all, it’s a top, top place for seafood lovers and one we can’t stop returning to for our fix of fresh fish.
Website: thescallopshell.co.uk
Address: 22 Monmouth Pl, Bath BA1 2AY
East Meets West, Southgate Street
Ideal for regionally faithful Cantonese and Sichuan cooking, all so close to the station…
Bath doesn’t have a Chinatown, nominal or designated, owing to its size and sensibility, but there are several excellent, regionally faithful Chinese restaurants in the city, the high quality likely a result of the large number of Chinese students here.
Perhaps the best Chinese restaurant in the city, serving signature dishes from the Cantonese, Sichuan and Northern canon of Chinese cooking, is East meets West, its name thankfully just a reference to its location rather than a warning of the flashes of fusion within.
There are two menus here, an English menu and a Chinese version. These descriptors (theirs) don’t describe the language used, as both are presented in the Queen’s, but rather, the likely target demographic of each. Whilst the former has your usual Kung Pao, roast duck with plum sauce, and a range of chicken, cashew and pineapple preparations, it’s in the Chinese menu where things get interesting.
Here you’ll find a hefty rundown of properly spicy, numbing dishes from the Sichuan province, bubbling, rust dappled hotpots centered around tripe and stomach, and the odd preserved egg dish thrown in for good measure. This is exactly what you want on a wet and windy West Country night as autumn descends.
The numbing dishes served cold are particularly good at East meets West, with a plate of hot and spicy ox tongue a revelation on our last visit. A cold poached chicken in simple spring onion broth – cloudy, piquant and complex – was superb too, as was the signature mapo tofu, which we saw the staff enjoying a huge bowl of out back. Always a good sign…
With Chilli Family Noodles (also on our list) visible out of the restaurant window, the whole thing would have been transportive were it not for the discarded Sainsbury’s bag blowing about folornly in the rain opposite.
Perhaps the best dish of all here, though, was actually one which could be found back on the English menu – slabs of soy braised pork belly that arrived in a sheen of molasses black sauce and quivered when nudged with a spoon. Sitting on top some much-needed pickled mustard greens as the perfect foil, it tasted amazing. None of these dishes top £15.
Pair it all with a Tsing Tao or two, priced at a decent £3.90 a bottle, let the buzz of a busy dining room wash over you, and luxuriate in some of the most effective escapism that a few notes can buy. That, or it’s a £600 flight to Chengdu Shuangliu International. You decide…
Website: eastmeetswestbath.com
Address: 33 Southgate St, Bath BA1 1TP
Henry’s, Saville Row
Ideal for sophisticated city centre dining in soft focus…
There’s something incredibly charming about Henry’s on Saville Row. With quietly understated, gentle service and a dining room rendered in soothing satin soft blues and blondes, it’s a restaurant where there’s no danger of contending with a pulsating soundtrack when gathering for a gossip; a place where a leisurely, laid back dinner is actively encouraged rather than time-constrained to a mean 90 minutes.
At the stoves, chef Henry Scott crafted – until recently – a 5 course tasting menu of elegant pairings and delicate but pronounced flavours, clocking in at £75 for ‘Farm and Sea’ or £70 for ‘Land’ (that’s meat and fish or vegetarian to you and me). A longer 7 course affair was also available for twenty quid more.
All this has now changed with the announcement that, as of the first week of October, Henry’s will this week move to an a la carte format, with the explicit, commendable aim of offering “a menu that can be any night of the week not just weekends and special occasions.”
The Autumn Menu will be divided into ‘snacks and starters’, larger mains listed as ‘roots, land and sea’, plus sides and desserts. From the first section (all under a tenner), the Welsh rarebit and leek beignets sound like just the ticket with a local cider, whilst from those larger plates, which are priced in the mid-twenties, we’re pleased to see there’s still a big seafood focus, as we’ve previously found this is where chef Scott (not quite on first name terms yet!) really shines. Our name is on the shellfish linguine with clams and crayfish, make no mistake.
Desserts sound equally gorgeous, with inventive, elegant pairings evident in the molten chocolate tart with basil custard, or the burnt honey and orange panna cotta with ginger crumble and poached pear. Cor, yeah (spoken in a Gregg Wallace voice).
There is still an option for a tasting menu of source – for £75 you can order a ‘cook for me’ situation that features six of the chef’s favourite dishes from the current crop.
The refined, sophisticated cooking here has earned Henry’s a place in the Michelin Guide. Closed on Sundays and Mondays.
Address: 4 Saville Row, Bath BA1 2QP
Website: henrysrestaurantbath.com
Corkage, Chapel Row
Ideal for grazing on seasonal small plates while you explore a world of wine…
Corkage is a wine bar first and foremost, with a fine selection of showstoppers, heavy hitters and a few more esoteric bottles for good measure, many of which are imported by the owners here Richard Knighting and Marty Grant.
It’s a welcoming, inclusive affair on this stretch of Chapel Row; you won’t be judged for not knowing your stemmy from your steely, that’s for sure. In fact, exploring is greatly encouraged, with 50ml tasting samples available to help you find your ideal glass or bottle. We love that arms open approach.
This wine bar, it should be said on a rundown of Bath’s best restaurants, also happens to serve excellent food. A selection of seasonal small-ish plates to graze on while you pontificate on your wine, the ham hock terrine – suspended in a grassy green jelly – with a generous smear of split pea fava dip is a hearty old thing for just £8.50. The close-to-collapsing, spoonable beef short rib with house focaccia, beef dripping roasties and shavings of parmesan is even better.
For those erring on the ‘nibbles’ side of things, Corkage’s crisp squares of fried polenta with sharp, creamy whipped goat’s curd for dragging through, are something of a menu mainstay. Out back, an agreeable alfresco terrace area is a lovely spot to soak up some sun, order a second round of that polenta and have another glass.
Website: corkagebath.com
Address: 5 Chapel Row, Bath BA1 1HN
Bandook, Milsom Street
Ideal for an elegant, invigorating curry experience…
Though we’re sure that the Dishoom cookbook is out back, with certain pages turmeric stained and curry splattered, we’re also pretty sure that Bandook is Bath’s best Indian restaurant, its gently refined take on Bombay streetfood classics has been a really welcome introduction to the city since opening in 2019.
From the team behind the acclaimed Mint Room in the city, and the winner of ‘best restaurant’ at the Bath Life Awards earlier this year, Bandook is open for lunch and dinner seven days a week, with its light and airy dining room chiming perfectly with the restaurant’s intentions to be a place for relaxed, all-day drinking and feasting.
Start with the signature pan puri, those photogenic, enlivening bites of puffed semolina shell filled with chickpeas, tamarind chutney and sharp, invigorating jal jeera water. The version here is exemplary, all crisp exterior giving way to soothing, spiced chickpeas and the energising lift of the chutneys. It’s the perfect way to start a meal.
On the other end of the spectrum, the umami-heavy keema pav is ace, too. It’s a heady affair, with the curried minced lamb possessing enough funk to surely be mutton, and its buttery, pillow bed of brioche bun the perfect foil.
Unsurprisingly, the curries are awesome too, tasting like a true labour of love in their depth and complexity, but with a pleasing lightness at the same time. We could happily bathe in their old style Delhi butter chicken, though we could only dream of coming up for air as smooth and silky. Weird image aside, it’s such a luxurious bowlful.
Though a frothy Kingfisher might feel tempting and appropriate, we love to pair this one with a refreshing Limca soda, which chimes succinctly with the effervescent feel of the whole Bandook package. Cheers to that!
Oh, and Bandook’s resident jazz band, The French Connection, play every Thursday from 7pm to keep you entertained while you eat with their live rendition of swing-jazz.
Website: bandookkitchen.com
Address: 3-7 Milsom St, Bath BA1 1BZ
Green Street Butchers, Green Street
Ideal for a taste of Bath’s best sandwich…
Okay, we accept that it’s not a restaurant, but if you’re looking for some of the best food in Bath, then we simply had to give a shout out to the sandwiches served at these esteemed butchers on Green Street.
You can get a sense of the quality here by perving on the various cuts of beef hanging in the window, all dry-aged, barked, and marbled to perfection. Inside, the presence of house cured guanciale in the fridge and freshly-baked focaccia on the shelf further points to the premium nature of the place.
So, to those sandwiches. You have a choice of three at Green Street Butchers; rotisserie chicken, roast beef or porchetta. The latter is particularly good (it turns out the butchers here are Italian, and it shows), with a thick, single slice of tender pork-stuffed pork and the most bubbly of cracking bedded between a bap, its accoutrements of tarragon salsa verde and celeriac remoulade bringing the whole thing to life. Incredible, and almost impossible not to order a second.
Website: greenstreetbath.com
Address: 10 Green St, Bath BA1 2JZ
Bosco, Milsom Place
Ideal for date night…
Though Bosco bills itself as a Café Napoletana, the vibe inside is, quite frankly, more New York hotel bar, with plenty of marble counter seating, dark leather stools (you might want to see a doctor about that), and low filament lighting casting shadows over the more intimate corners of the dining room. This is one of the city’s most romantic spots for an evening date, that’s for sure.
On the plate are some excellent (on their day) pizzas alongside deep fried snacks, bruschetta, Italian meats and cheeses, pasta and a couple of larger plates for good measure. Though the quality of the pizza here has been erratic on a couple of previous visits, the pasta dishes are particularly well realised, with the veal lasagna genuinely excellent, its structural integrity intact, as it should be, but its bechamel sauce positively piquant and oozing.
If you’re looking to graze while you drink in the dining room’s amorous vibe (as well as the excellent house negroni), then the cicchetti section of the menu is where you’ll feel most at home. We’ve been known to base a whole meal around their taleggio arancini, fried zucchini and bouncy but giving polpette in the past. Bolster the spread with a little coppa and gorgonzola dolce, imported from Lombardy, and you’ve got yourself the finest Italian feast in the city.
Website: boscopizzeria.co.uk
Address: Milsom Place, Bath BA1 1BZ
Yak Yeti Yak, Pierrepont Street
Ideal for intimate Nepalese dining…
A Bath institution and a restaurant of much seniority compared to many of the others on our list, Nepalese restaurant Yak Yeti Yak is one of the city’s longest serving restaurants for a reason.
Head down the staircase to this inviting, stone-cobbled room and – immediately after you’re hit with the intoxicating aroma of incense and black cardamom – you’ll be met with a warm welcome like you’re one of the family. Generous portions of intricately spiced, instantly-likeable Nepalese dishes follow.
Though the vibe is certainly snug and intimate here, the cooking certainly isn’t what you’d call ‘homely’; there’s some real flair on display in the nimble but keenly seasoned momos, whilst the signature Yak Yeti Yak chicken – inspired by Katmandhu’s hole in the wall bars – is delicate and sophisticated in flavour.
Don’t miss the regal, saffron-infused Kesariko dhai – a yoghurt dish with origins in the kitchens of Himalayan royalty – which sends you on your merry way back up that flight of stairs and onto street level a very satisfied diner indeed.
The restaurant also runs the YYY Foundation, which does excellent work on long-term community projects in Nepal, including raising money for women’s hygiene products and contributing to the rebuilding of several primary schools. Do check it out.
Website: yakyetiYyak.co.uk
Address: 12 Pierrepont St, Bath BA1 1LA
Chilli Family Noodles, Dorchester Street
Ideal slurping bowls of spicy, nourishing noodles…
You wouldn’t perhaps expect to find a bowl of seriously nourishing, Sichuan-pepper laden noodles in a tightly-packed dining room tacked onto the back of a public toilet…
Scrap that last sentence; that’s exactly where you might expect to find a bowl of seriously nourishing noodles were you in one of the worlds street food capitals such as Guangzhou or Bangkok, but Bath, let’s be honest, isn’t exactly known for rugged, rough and ready dining.
That’s what makes Chilli Family Noodles all the more special, and, in our view, one of the best restaurants in Bath. Here, and despite what at first appears to be an expansive menu, the choices are simple; choose between stewed beef, minced chicken, spare ribs or tofu, choose from flat, fat or thin noodles (or rice), and prepare for a mouth-numbing, lip-tingling bowl of pure heaven, and all for just £7, whichever way you choose to fill your bowl.
Though the restaurant name and menu quite rightly steer you in that direction, regulars to Chilli Family Noodles will know that the real highlights lie in the ‘something extra’ section of the menu, with the mouth-watering chicken (served cold) a real winner whether you’re looking for something refreshing in summer or nourishing in winter. It really ticks all the boxes.
And with a row of wok-burners out back, you know you’re in for that all-important ‘hei’ from the stir-fries, too. Mine’s a pak choi with extra garlic, if you’re getting them in.
Do be aware that the restaurant only takes cash, though you’ll be very well fed indeed for under £20 for two (there are several cash points just across the road).
Facebook: Chilli Family Noodles
Address: 1 Dorchester St, Bath BA1 1SS
The Elder, South Parade
Ideal for a grown-up menu of the UK’s finest wild fish and game…
This relatively new addition to Bath’s burgeoning dining scene from Mike Robinson, co-owner of London’s only Michelin starred gastropub, the Harwood Arms, might already be the best restaurant in the historic Somerset city.
Having opened in the late summer of 2020, following the first national lockdown, the Elder has found its groove immediately, with a focus placed firmly on locally sourced, seasonal ingredients and a menu that showcases the best game and wild fish of the region. Considering Bath’s position an hour from the coast and with good access to the UK’s largest fish market, Brixham in Devon, as well as its proximity to Quantock Hills, where wild deer roam, it feels like the menu writes itself here.
But that would be doing a disservice to the intricate, respectful cooking on show at the Elder; there’s some serious thought going into these dishes. The Dorset crab tart is a revelation, but even better is the Muntjac deer tartare on brown butter crumpet, which is a stunning piece of work. Leave room for the desserts, if you can; the seasonal fruit souffle (raspberry on previous our visit) is faultless.
And if that wasn’t enough, the restaurant has recently opened its very own oyster bar, with freshly shucked native oysters served on their gorgeous, south facing terrace. Well, it would be rude not to, right?
Earlier this year, The Elder announced something of a revamp, menu wise. Both simplifying proceedings but also seemingly taking things up a notch, replacing the old a la carte offering with the introduction of a 7 course tasting menu, with a choice between meat and fish for the first starter and the main, as well as a dedicated vegetarian option. Priced at a generous £85 per person, the menu is designed around wild, seasonal, ever-changing, sustainable British ingredients. Let’s hope that crab tart finds its way back onto the menu soon!
Website: theelder.co.uk
Address: 2-8 South Parade, Bath BA2 4AB
Noya’s Kitchen, St James’s Parade
Ideal for the best Vietnamese food in the South West of England…
Vietnamese cuisine isn’t particularly well represented in the city, but Noya’s Kitchen is doing its best to change that with fresh, zippy Vietnamese food served at a variety of special events, lunches and supper clubs.
We’re particularly here for Pho Wednesdays, when bowls of the famous noodle and broth dish are devotedly served. A must order are Noya’s crispy pork with ginger and water chestnut dumplings topped with a blob of homemade chilli cranberry jam. They are divine.
You know when you’ve eaten one too many beige, protein-defined meals? In a sometimes beige, often protein-defined city, Noya’s the place to head for some respite.
In the summer, see if you can get a seat out in the popular garden; sunny, pretty and decorated with colourful parasols, it’s the ideal place to be on a summer’s day. The staff know their bun cha from their bun bo hue and are as charming as they come. You’ll leave here feeling happy, content and with a spring in your step.
Website: noyaskitchen.co.uk
Address: 7 St James’s Parade, Bath BA1 1UL
The Beckford Bottle Shop, Saville Row
Ideal for fine wines and the perfect drinking food…
Beckford Bottle Shop has made serious waves during its six years on Saville Row, picking up a hugely coveted Bib Gourmand award from Michelin and some fawning reviews in the national press. We certainly concur with that validation; the formula is one so very hip in London right now, of a wine bar which just happens to serve some really enticing small plates. It’s less ubiquitous here, which makes this bottle shop all the more enjoyable.
Two recent visits brought with them plates of precise seasonality and a keen sense of place. On the first outing, highlights included some superb devilled livers on toast, as well as Bath chaps – slow braised pig cheeks, pressed, breadcrumbed and deep fried – with a rustic, rough apple puree, and a decadent, dark chocolate mousse finished with pumpkin seed.
Even better on a more recent visit, a buttery, invigorating anchovies on toast was lifted by gently pickled shallots, whilst the now obligatory order of courgette fritti was texturally satisfying, its exterior crisp, its centre tender and giving. The accompanying aioli managed to be both delicate and decadent; a fine balancing act, indeed.
Both dishes – salty and satisfying – felt like the perfect drinking food in elegant Bath, and the accompanying Melissaki orange wine (available by the carafe), its texture dense and acidity gentle, was the ideal foil for the food.
Seemingly warming to a theme, a plate of salt cod brandade on toast was gorgeous, too, the wine now slipping down a little too easily. From the meatier side of the menu, a few blushing pink, thick slices of venison loin sat on a sharp tomatillo puree, a menu outlier but one which worked brilliantly well. The Nebbiolo d’Alba matched it with aplomb.
To end, an affogato of burnt butter ice cream, the restaurant’s own rum caramel, and a strong, bitter espresso, was the perfect way finish everyone off. If the Beckford Bottle Shop is this good after just a handful of years on the Row, we’re very excited for the future here.
Website: beckfordbottleshop.com
Address: 5-8 Saville Row, Bath BA1 2QP
Beckford Canteen, Bartlett Street
Ideal for a light-hearted atmosphere and gentle re-interpretations of classic British fare…
Part of the same acclaimed restaurant group as the Beckford Bottle Shop from just a few yards up the road, Beckford Canteen has only been open for just shy of two years, but it’s already become a fixture of (admittedly, increasingly predictable) national restaurant reviews and awards.
To be fair, it’s easy to see why Beckford Canteen is enjoying such precocious praise, of being one of the best restaurants in Bath already. First off, the dining room (set in a former Georgian greenhouse) is airy and easy-going, with plenty of window seating for watching the hustle and bustle of Bartlett Street go by. Service here, as with the bottle shop north up Saville Row, is flawless, cheery and mellow, a great encouragement to settle in for the afternoon.
The menu echoes this light-hearted atmosphere, with gentle re-interpretations of British classics like a sweet and verdant pea and mint soup, and the restaurant’s already iconic rarebit crumpet ticking all the right boxes. Better still is the pork jowl terrine, ensconsed in a translucent, giving jelly that tastes of the best ham hock stock.
On a recent visit, a panisse topped with wild garlic and trout roe was ordered three times – all you need to know – and the restaurant’s signature, impossibly crisp layered potatoes seemed to be on every table. If there is a whole fish, cooked on the bone and doused in brown butter with shrimp, then that is another must order on a menu full of them.
With every bottle on the tight but carefully composed wine list also available by the glass – the restaurant’s house Picpoul de Pinet, at £7.50, is crisp and refreshing – this is a meal that needn’t break the bank, too, the inclusivity of the ‘canteen’ moniker feeling wonderfully fitting.
Website: beckfordcanteen.com
Address: 11-12 Bartlett St, Bath BA1 2QZ
Budō, Argyle Street *As of December 2024, now permanently closed*
Ideal for grungy izakaya dining that’s great for meat eaters and vegetarians alike…
Here’s an interesting fact about Bath’s Pulteney Bridge; it is one of only four bridges in the world to have shops across its full span on both sides. A slightly less interesting aside; just beyond Pulteney Bridge, you’ll find Argyle Street, home to Bath’s original izakaya, Budō.
This one started life as a pop-up concept above popular pub The Grapes (the izakaya and the pub share an owner, Eleanor Lieper). This first floor space above the pub also plays host to weekly life drawing glasses, and for some reason we’re now imagining the models dodging flying embers.
Anyway, although that’s a load of silly nonsense, the izakaya concept soon outgrew the space, owing to its popularity, so in May of last year Lieper found a more permanent home for it, just 5 minutes east over on Argyle Street.
Budō embraces the soulful spirit of Japanese izakaya restaurants, the vibe here is loud and grungy, the ethos laid back but high-spirited, and the food downright delicious. The ‘spin’ at Budō? Many of the dishes here are as influenced by the food of South Korea as they are by Japan, with the kimchi pancakes a menu highlight.
Of course, anything kissed by the binchotan hits the mark here, and as with any self-respecting izakaya, the offal-y bits are particularly good. If that sounds like your sort of thing, then your attention will be captured by the ‘hearts of the day’ which are pretty self-explanatory. Rich and funky, they’re just the thing to pair with Budō’s impressive selection of sake, Japanese whiskey, shochu, and even locally produced rice beer. To be honest, it’s quite hard to leave Budō sober.
Take a seat in the upstairs bar area if you’ve something to confess to your partner or want a bit of intimacy. But for a full throttle view of the action, follow the staircase down into the bowels of the building, where a horseshoe counter looks over the hobs and portable grills. Kick off with a plate of pickles, end with a shochu bomb (a mix of the Korean spirit and beer, which you’re encouraged to smash on the table before downing the frothy explosion) and totter out onto the road quite a different person.
*Sadly, as of early December 2024, Budo has announced that it will permanently close in its Argyle Street location. We’ll miss this place!*
Website: budobath.co.uk
Address: 3 Argyle St, Bathwick, Bath BA2 4BA
Baba’s Mezze, Barton Street
The thoroughfare that takes in Kingsmead Square, Saw Close and Barton Street is perhaps Bath’s buzziest, full of hens and stags, seagulls and pigeons, waifs and strays, and three of the restaurants on our roundup of Bath’s best – The Oven, Chaiwalla, and our latest entry, the Persian mezze and charcoal kebab specialists at Baba’s Mezze.
Opened with little fanfare in October of last year, you might be tempted to call Baba’s Mezze something of a ‘hidden gem’, were it not for the inviting smell of charcoal, smoke and caramelising fat that wafts out of the always open door and onto Barton Street whenever you walk past.
If that nostalgic aroma isn’t even to beckon you in like a freshly baked apple pie on a cartoon windowsill, then instead be enamoured by a glimpse of the twinkling Souk-inspired lighting and the warmth of the Persian rugs – a kind of curated, thematic dining room, sure, but one that promises a great feed.
And so it delivers. Ignore the piratical, tea-stained treasure map of a menu. Instead, admire its brevity, a refreshingly short and confident affair with seven cold and seven hot mezze, and a handful of larger items ‘from ‘the firepit’. From the former section, the signature baba ganoush is superb; roughly hewn rather than pureed, and smoky as you like. The yoghurt-based mezze mast o khiar is an exemplary version, too, given its characteristic perfume from dried mint and rose powder. Drag the restaurant’s grilled, butter anointed flatbreads through both and luxuriate.
And then, onto the main event; the kebabs. For us, a koobideh kebab – that heady, fatty minced lamb number wrapped around thick metal skewers and gently grilled – is always irresistible, and Baba’s is a fine rendition; not charred and gnarly, but rather, tender and full of the flavour of lamb fat. Its liberal basting of saffron butter certainly hasn’t harmed its immaculate texture.
The wine list is an interesting affair too, with the majority of bottles hailing from Greece, Turkey and Lebanon. That said, the Georgian Tbilvino Saperavi (£38) was just the ticket with that lamb koobideh, its deep, dark ruby colour and a rich bouquet of dark berries and subtle spicing, alongside robust tannins and well-balanced acidity, complemented the overtly succulent nature of the lamb brilliantly.
It shouldn’t come as a huge surprise that Baba’s Mezze has hit its stride so quickly. The owners here, Ben Shayegan and Ben Goodman (one Persian and one Greek), have extensive experience in Bath’s dining scene, with the Shayegan family owning several restaurants in the vicinity, including The Oven, Raphael and Amarone. The head chef here, Mehdi Paratesh, hails from Tehran and boasts 15 years of experience working the charcoal grill. We’re so glad they’ve brought that expertise to Barton Street.
Website: babasmezzebath.uk
Address: 19 Barton St, Bath BA1 1HG
The Chequers, Rivers Street
Ideal for Bath’s finest gastropub experience…
The Chequers has long been one of Bath’s best pubs, standing on its humble, residential spot close to the Royal Crescent and the Circus for close to 250 years. A great place for pints since forever, it’s only recently started gaining very well-deserved traction for its food too.
Pull open the door and you’re immediately hit with that waft of a great pub welcome. Nope, not the smell of stale beer and flatulence but, rather, the din of chatter, chiming glasses and clinking cutlery. Stride up to the welcoming central bar that’s the beating heart of the dining room and order a stout if you’re so inclined, as the Chequers is still proudly a pub, but if you’re lucky enough to have nabbed a dinner reservation (booking ahead is highly recommended, particularly for their excellent Sunday Roast), you’ll be richly rewarded with a rundown of pub classics given the odd reinvention or twist.
A case in point is the current menu staple of crispy lamb, which here sees shoulder cooked down until giving and pull-able, and pressed into a terrine mould with plenty of ultra-gelatinous stock set around it. It’s then breaded and deep-fried, because everything tastes better than way. A bright, delicately spiced carrot and cumin puree mellows everything out. What a dish this is – yours for just £9.50.
You could order from the mains section of the menu, with dishes like Wiltshire venison loin, blackberries, cavolo nero and celeriac certainly singing of the seasons, but really, the highlight of a meal at the Chequers is stuff on the special’s blackboard just to the right of the bar, which lists a couple of big beefy bits (a tomahawk for two on our list visit), as well as dayboat fish, cooked simply and sympathetically, as produce this good always should be.
A late September visit brought with it a whole brill with sea vegetables and pickled shrimp, which was excellent, but even better was a skate wing so thick it looked more like a chop, that came anointed with a generous lashing of deep, brooding peppercorn sauce. A scattering of crispy sage leaves sealed the deal; this was a lovely dish. The accompanying triple-cooked chips will get pressed and mashed into that sauce if you know the move.
Yes, it’s that kind of place, of tradition and classical cooking with just a little innovation, which is often what you want from your gastropubs, don’t you think? Not that The Chequers would want to be called a ‘gastropub’, we’d wager. A pub will do just fine.
And yes, of course there’s a crackling fire to gather around in the depths of winter. We think we might stay here a while, actually…
Website: chequersbath.net
Address: 50 Rivers St, Bath BA1 2QA
Hare & Hounds, Lansdown Road
Ideal for dinner with the most almighty of views…
With an enviable vantage point presiding over Bath and the Charlcombe Valley below, the Hare and Hounds isn’t just a pint with a view; they also serve fantastic food here.
Work up an appetite for it with a calf-stretching upwards climb to the pub (700 feet above sea level, if you’re asking) along Lansdown Road, your breathtaking walk rewarded with breathtaking vistas and a fine feast at the summit.
Get your name down for the famous Hare and Hounds lamb scotch egg while you’re ordering your first pint, as this one often sells out. After a bite, you’ll understand why. Do a bit of zero waste ordering and go for the lamb sweetbreads next, crisp and golden and served with a braise of warm lamb’s lettuce (no relation to the sheep you’ve been working your way through) and peas.
You could be properly weird and order the Sri Lankan lamb shank for mains, but the fish and chips are really, really good here, all lacy bronze beer batter and perfectly steamed Cornish hake within. Chunky chips, a chunky tartare sauce and a chunky (huh?) lemon wearing its best muslin cloth jacket seals the deal.
Now that summer isn’t far away, things are only going to get better here. Indeed, when the weather is kind, there’s no better place to dine al fresco than the Hare & Hound’s terrace, admiring the Somerset landscape and rewarding yourself with another cloudy cider for the road. You did earn this one, after all.
Website: hareandhoundsbath.com
Address: Lansdown Rd, Bath BA1 5TJ
Chez Dominique, Argyle Street
Ideal for pleasingly old school dining at a pleasingly old school price point…
Back down at street level, and the views are almost as gorgeous from Chez Dominique’s dining room, this time looking out over Pulteney Weir and its roaring waters (cue a conversation about whether you could survive being dropped into it, naturally).
Back in the room and eyes on the menu, and it’s not perhaps quite as Francophile as the restaurant’s name suggests, with gochujang mayonnaise, curried lentils, chimichurri and a whole host of other apparent interlopers making their way onto the table. That mayo forms part of a very agreeable starter, in fact, bringing vigour and succour to slices of ox tongue.
There’s something reassuringly old school about Chez Dominique. From the mahogany furniture and blue glassware all the way to the frivolous font on the menu, it’s the kind of place where you order your own starter, main and dessert without fear of being corrected with the old “let me explain how our menu works”. From the mains, a skillfully roasted chicken breast, crisp skinned and tender fleshed, comes with creamed leeks and a sauce poivrade, a gently acidic, black pepper-heavy sauce that’s thickened with a roux rather than cream. It coats that chicken just right.
With several very drinkable wines in the mid-twenties for a bottle (and just £13.50 for a carafe), and a lunch menu that’s just £28 for three courses, Chez Dominique is also one of Bath’s best value restaurants. A truly fabulous place to spend an evening.
Website: chezdominique.co.uk
Address: 15 Argyle St, Bathwick, Bath BA2 4BQ
Oak, North Parade
Ideal for Bath’s finest vegetarian dining experience…
A chic vegetarian restaurant just a Bath stone’s throw from the Abbey, Oak posits itself as something of a collaborative experience, with a team of ‘grocers, growers and cooks’ behind the gorgeously inviting menu here.
Formerly known as Acorn and honestly even better as its iteration as Oak, the restaurant is one of the first plant-based (pedants; fuck off) joints in the country to be listed in the Michelin guide. It’s easy to see why. Delicate but generous seasonal dishes like smoked ricotta agnolotti with asparagus and wild garlic not only deliver on flavour and freshness, but also on price point; dishes hover around the tenner mark, with nothing going above £12.95. For food of this quality, it’s an absolute steal.
That sense of value is exemplified by Oak’s five course tasting menu, a veritable feast for just £49, with wine pairing an almost philanthropic £27. In 2024’s eating out climate, you’ll rarely find a bottle for that price, let alone a bespoke pairing situation. Salut!
Website: oakrestaurant.co.uk
Address: 2 N Parade, Bath BA1 1NX
Ole Tapas, John Street
Ideal for a truly authentic, elbow-to-elbow tapas bar in the heart of Bath…
When on the hunt for the best tapas in Bath, we’re big fans of Pintxo, just a few doors down from the Theatre Royal. But a more recent discovery and, for our money, even better, is Ole Tapas, a tiny, first floor tapas bar that’s impossible to find and almost as impossible to snag a stool in. Incidentally, it’s only just around the corner from Pintxo and on the same street as the Gin Bar (just sayin’), if you do need to wait for a perch.
Whilst we’re loathe to use the word ‘authentic’ about a tapas bar in a Roman city in England, Ole is about as authentic as it comes, all tight seating and knocking elbows with your neighbour, noisy chatter, noisier flamenco music, and some great small plates designed for picking over as the cañas are kept flowing.
Ole’s berenjenas con miel are a fine version indeed, these salty, sweet batons of deep fried aubergine dressed in just the right amount of cane honey reduction. They are just the thing with a few cold ones, as is the croquette of the day, on our visit the classic ham; runny, gooey and just a touch tacky, as it should be. The classics keep coming; plump, pert boquerones that aren’t dressed too sharply, patatas bravas blanketed in a wellmade, viscous salsa brava rather than a ketchup/mayo mash-up, and albondigas with the requisite bounce.
Another cañas slides over to your space on the counter, and you conclude that this is the best tapas you’ll find in Bath. The city’s residents seem to agree, but fortunately, you can book Ole Tapas. Doing so a week or two in advance is highly recommended.
Website: oletapas.co.uk
Address: First Floor, 1 John St, Bath BA1 2JL
The Oven, Seven Dials
Ideal for a quick meal...
This little corner of South West England isn’t too blessed with seriously good pizza options, so we’re ending our tour of our favourite restaurants in Bath in The Oven.
The oven in question, central to the restaurant not only in name but in its prime position in the dining room, is manned by pizzaioli Fabrizio Mancinetti, with the pizzas here loosely based on the Neapolitan canotto style.
Translating as ‘dinghy’ and defined by their imposing, inflated crusts, the dough at The Oven boasts the requisite heft to carry some generous toppings, whether that’s the Sicilian sausage, mushrooms and toasted walnuts, or the goat’s cheese, caramelised red onion, rocket and pine nuts. Yes, nuts on a pizza; trust us, it works. While this won’t be the best pizza of your life, it’s a good spot with quick, efficient service.
Address: 3 & 4, Seven Dials, Saw Cl, Bath BA1 1ENWebsite: theovenpizzeria.co.uk
Website: theovenpizzeria.co.uk
Chaiwalla, Monmouth Street
Ideal for one of the best falafel wraps in the UK…
It might seem hyperbolic to dub somewhere so small and unassuming as a Bath institution (or even, as it happens, a ‘restaurant’ as there are no seats) but this cheap and cheerful spot is more than deserving of that title.
The smell alone as you wander by this hole-in-the-wall, takeaway only operation in Kingsmead Square should tell you everything you need to know; inside, the cooks are doing incredible things in the most humble of spaces.
We won’t go on any further; you can read more about our thoughts on Chaiwalla on our rundown of Bath’s best places for vegetarian food. Watch out for those seagulls!