Ideal for going the whole hog – trotters, tails, testicles and all…
It’s long been our opinion that everything’s better with bacon, which is probably why we love this restaurant so much. A haven for swine superfans, Pigmeu offers a variety of pork dishes that will have your local Babe quivering in fear.
You’re already familiar with the culinary philosophy of nose-to-tail eating. You know the one that exalts the neglected, often underappreciated parts of animals. This is the focus of Pigmeu, whose relationship with the hashtag #detudoumporco (a Portuguese pun which means nose-to-tail eating) has become something of a mission statement. Yep, it’s all offal, snouts, pig’s ears, trotters and tails here, and it’s all bloody delicious.
Miguel Azevedo Peres, the mastermind behind the restaurant, comes from Lisbon. However, his family hails from Bairrada in central Portugal, a region famous for its many suckling pig restaurants – and boy we’re glad he’s brought those vibes to the capital.
Start with the pig heart empanadas. Based on Chef Miguel Peres grandmother’s recipe, but with a few tweaks. Served with spicy kimchi on the side – the acidity balances the earthy intensity of the heart perfectly.
Order the sainhas too. A flap resembling a fan with several small folds that connects the pig’s intestines, here the offal (the redanho) is slowly fried to golden perfection. Traditionally, sainhas is a snack prepared on pig slaughter days. At Pigmeu, you can enjoy this crunchy and delicious treat from Monday to Saturday.+
The bifana here has become known, affectionately we should add, as the “porcalhona”, translating to something along the lines of “filthy”, and is an enjoyably messy affair that escapes its fermented sweet potato bread and renders your white T-shirt unsalvageable. You don’t resent it one bit.
Of course, this is all foreplay for the main event; the suckling pig that’s been slowly cooked for 12 hours. A must order if you’re coming with friends, it’s sensational and all the things you can want from your pork. That is, crunchy crackling, fat-drenched and salty. Also of note is the black pig ‘cut of the day’, which changes daily.
Whatever you order, the whole thing is held together by oh-so-rich and savoury sauces that are – a contentious claim, perhaps – the restaurant’s true trump card. An interesting, all-Portuguese, mostly-natural wine list seals the deal.
When it comes to the sweeter side of things, the pudim abade de prisco is where it’s at. This flan-like Portuguese dessert made with port and caramel gets its mellow savoury notes from – you guessed it – pork. The chocolate mousse with crispy bacon shards on top is a sexy ol’ thing, too. Vegetarians need not apply.
Website: pigmeu.pt
