If ever a city existed in a liminal space between meals, it’s Chiang Mai. The ancient capital of the Lanna Kingdom feels like it’s perpetually gearing up for its next feast, with never ending plumes of smoke rising from charcoal grills, steam billowing from bubbling curry pots, and the rhythmic pounding of clay pestle and mortars providing the city’s distinctive soundtrack. A soundtrack that’s only punctuated by a busy chorus of discussion about what’s for dinner, we might add…
Indeed, whilst the region’s proud, ornate temples, mountain vistas, walls and moats might initially draw visitors to Northern Thailand’s spiritual centre, it’s the food that keeps them coming back.
A distinct cuisine influenced by neighbouring Burma, Laos and the Yunnan Province of China, but with its own inimitable character, Lanna food – as the food of the north is known – is generally milder than that of central and southern Thailand, with an earthy, herbal profile taking precedence over the familiar sweet, spicy and sour vibes that folk usually associate with the Kingdom. Pork fat brings a sauve richness where cracked coconut cream might sizzle down south. Sticky rice reigns supreme.
Not that Chiang Mai has a myopic vision, food wise. A large expat population and status as Thailand’s digital nomad capital means you’ll find excellent international restaurants too, as well as cafes and bars that wouldn’t look out of place in London or New York. Still, we write that without including a single one on our list, such is the quality of the local food here.
So, once again, we find ourselves in the privileged position of eating our way around one of the world’s great food cities, all in the name of research. An arduous task, make no mistake, but one we accepted with open arms, and soon after, open mouths. Here are the very best places to eat in Chiang Mai; our IDEAL 22.
SP Chicken, Si Phum (Old City)
Ideal for some of the finest grilled chicken you’ll ever eat…
Let’s start with something simple but sublime. SP Chicken has been doing one thing exceptionally well for decades now; Issan-style grilled chicken cooked over charcoal. And boy, do they do it well.
The chickens here are brined, marinated, stuffed with lemongrass and garlic, and cooked on vertical spits with the heat source coming from the side rather than below. This unique method prevents any oil from dripping onto the coals and causing flare-ups that might burn the birds. The result? Impossibly juicy meat and perfectly, consistently crisp skin, every single time.
You have the option of a half or a whole bird. Though the idea of a half seems plenty, you’ll find yourself licking the plate and your fingers and considering ordering a second half.
You might as well commit to the whole thing first time around. Order yours with som tam (papaya salad) and sticky rice – the holy trinity of Isaan cooking, add a couple of Singha beers, position yourself near the grill where the cook is happy to swap stories and cooking tips, and stay the afternoon there. Heaven.
Prices remain steadfastly local here too, with a full spread for two rarely exceeding 400 baht (around £9). The whole chicken is 190 baht (£4.30), if you want to behave like a beast, tearing at drumsticks with your teeth.
Address: 9/1 ถนน สามล้าน ซอย 1 พระสิงห์ Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50200, Thailand
Sorn Chai, Si Phum
Ideal for northern Thai food that’s worth seeking out…
It’s a pig’s ear to find and a pig’s ear to find open. Funnily enough, you can find pig’s ear on the menu here. That’s if you’re lucky enough to catch one of the sweet spots where their doors are flung wide and the sisters in-charge are at the stove. But man, it’s worth the effort (and occasional disappointment at being turned away).
Because this bare bones, humble eatery serves up some of the finest northern Thai specialties in the city. Their gaeng hung lay (a Burmese-influenced curry of braised pork belly) is sensational, their laab toasty, rasping and redolent of a complex dried spice mix, and bitter as it should be. The northern Thai sausage, sai ua, is fragrant with lemongrass and makrut lime leaf, with a pleasingly caramelised casing – a nice point of a difference in a city with so much sai ua that the sausage fest gags write themself.
Address: 25-27 Kotchasarn Rd, Tambon Chang Moi, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50300, Thailand
Khao Soi Prince, San Sai District
Ideal for what might just be the finest bowl of curry noodles in the world…
About half an hour’s drive north of the city centre lies what many consider to be the best khao soi in Chiang Mai and by default, then, the world. This iconic northern Thai dish combines egg noodles in a rich coconut curry broth, crowned with crispy fried noodles and served with pickled greens, shallots, and chilli oil – a cherished creation born from the intersection of Chinese Muslim, Burmese and Thai culinary traditions. The journey might seem excessive for a bowl of noodles, but trust us; this one’s worth it.
Here, the third (and reportedly last) generation owner still makes the egg noodles by hand daily, preserving a family recipe that spans more than four decades. The beef version is the move here; the meat tender and giving, the coconut curry broth deep and complex with properly developed spicing, and those noodles – both soft and crispy – providing the perfect vehicle for it all.
If you’re feeling curious, try their pad sen khao soi, where those same hand-made noodles are stir-fried rather than swimming in broth. It’s a unique twist on the city’s signature dish that you won’t find in many other places. Rent a motorbike and make a day of it; San Sai is a gorgeous retreat from Chiang Mai proper.
Address: Tambon Nong Han, San Sai District, Chiang Mai 50290, Thailand
Blackitch Artisan Kitchen, Nimmanhaemin
Ideal for innovative cooking that respects its roots…
Hidden above a gelato shop in Chiang Mai’s hip Nimmanhaemin neighbourhood, this 16-seat restaurant serves some of the most exciting food in Chiang Mai. Chef Phanuphol Bulsuwan, who learned his craft at his grandmother’s side rather than culinary school, creates ambitious 10-course tasting menus that change constantly based on what’s available from local farmers and foragers.
The chef’s innovative approach to fermentation – he makes his own fish sauce, soy sauce and pickles, and brews beer and sake for the restaurant, too – and his deep knowledge of local ingredients results in food that pushes boundaries while remaining distinctly Thai.
The dining room might be minimalist, but the flavours on the 2700 baht (£60 ish) tasting menu are anything but. Highlights include a refined take on the pork and tomato relish nahm prik ong (the ol’ Thai bolognese), which here is served ‘two ways’ and topped with crisp shards of chicken skin, and chef Bulsuwan’s buffalo salad, a riff on the sun-dried buffalo dishes of the Tai Khuen people.
The menu changes regularly and is Thai-seasonal in its approach, observing the rainy and dry seasons, the former celebrating the abundance that the wetter weather brings; the latter embracing ingredients that are refreshing and light. There’s a keen sense of time and place here – of tradition and modernity that reflects the wider city as an entity.
Many think that Blackitch will be the restaurant that wins Chiang Mai its first Michelin star – we have to say, we agree with them. It’s the best ‘fine dining’ restaurant in Thailand’s second city by some margin.
Website: blackitch.com
Address: 27/1 Nimmanhemin Soi 7, Suthep, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50200, Thailand
Tong Tem Toh, Nimmanhaemin
Ideal for northern Thai classics in lively surrounds…
Set in a charming wooden house on Nimmanhaemin Soi 13, Tong Tem Toh is perpetually packed with a mix of Thai university students, Chinese tourists and in-the-know farang. They’re all here for the same thing – agreeable northern Thai food in a convivial courtyard, all big wooden tables and noisy din that makes the whole sharing thing all the more enjoyable.
It is a massive menu, so let the restaurant dictate things a little. Their northern Thai appetiser platter is the perfect introduction to the cuisine, loaded with sai ua, nahm prik ong, nahm prik noom (roasted green chilli relish), pork crackling and steamed vegetables. Lovely stuff. The grilled meats coming off the barbecue set up outside are excellent too, particularly the fatty, charred pork neck. It’s impossible to resist the smoke wafting about as you queue for, genuinely, hours for a table.
That said, the highlight at Tong Tem Toh is the jin som. Here, pork mince, skin and fat are mixed together with a cracked egg, pounded garlic and salt, wrapped in a banana leaf and left to ferment in the sun for a few days. The parcel is then chucked on the grill to order, and served with roasted peanuts, thumbs of ginger and Thai bird’s eye chillis. It’s lip smackingly good, and a damn fine version at triple T; rich, sour and just a little bit funky. Chase it down with a few Singha over ice – you’ve earned it after all that waiting around.
A meal here rarely costs more than 300 baht per person, which makes the queue out front a bit more bearable. Our advice? Get there early, get your name down and your number memorised, and go for a beer or two opposite.
Facebook: TongTemToh
Khao Soi Khun Yai, Si Phum
Ideal for a bowl of curry noodles from the OG (original grandma)…
Just off Sri Phum Road, near the North Gate of the old city, you’ll find this beloved institution known simply as Grandma’s Khao Soi. Opening at 10am and closing when they run out (usually around 2pm), this modest open-air eatery serves what many consider the best bowl of khao soi within the old city walls.
The coconut curry broth here is perfectly balanced – not too rich, not too sweet – with a deep rouge colour that speaks to its proper blooming of spices. While the chicken version is excellent, we’re particularly fond of the lesser-sighted pork version (owing to the dish’s potential Muslim origins, pork is rarely used in khao soi), which comes with tender chunks of belly that have been stewing in that incredible curry all morning. For those not confident with their chopsticks and fearful of ruining their T-shirt with a splashback of turmeric-tainted broth, the chicken slices version is your order.
Whichever way you play it, those ubiquitous condiments – pickled mustard greens, shallots, lime – are an essential counterpoint to the rich broth/soup/curry…whatever you want to call it. At just 60 baht a bowl, this is one of the city’s greatest bargains.
Website Sri Poom 8 Alley, Tambon Si Phum, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50200, Thailand
Huen Muan Jai, Chang Phuak
Ideal for authentic northern Thai food in a traditional Lanna setting…
Since 2011, this restaurant – whose name means ‘happy home’ – has been living up to its moniker by serving some of the most jolly satisfying northern Thai food in the city. Set in a traditional Lanna house with a leafy garden, it’s a tranquil spot to sample hard-to-find traditional dishes. Of a genre that’s fairly widespread in the city, Huen Muan Jai is our favourite rendition.
Former TV chef Charan Thipeung’s menu includes all the northern classics: sai ua, nahm prik ong, and an excellent gaeng hang lay, alongside some lesser known dishes (outside the north, at least) like tam khanoon (pounded jackfruit salad) and gaeng pla chon (a hot and sour soup with snakehead fish). We’re really sorry about all those brackets, by the way.
For newcomers and old timers, too, the northern Thai appetiser sampler is the perfect introduction to the region’s flavours. A word of warning; with the semi alfresco vibe to the dining room at Huen Muan Jai and the various water features scattered about the place, the mozzies can be pretty insistent here. Come doused in repellent accordingly.
Website: huenmuanjai2554.com
Address: 24 Ratchaphuek Alley, Tambon Chang Phueak, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50300, Thailand
Maadae Slow Fish Kitchen, Chang Moi
Ideal for seriously good seafood in a landlocked city…
You might not expect to find excellent seafood in a landlocked mountain city, but Maadae proves that distance from the coast is no barrier to quality. The kitchen here sources their catch directly from small-scale fishermen in Chumphon province, ensuring the freshest possible produce makes its way up north and onto the grills of this cracking restaurant.
The menu changes daily depending on what’s been caught, but you can expect Thai seafood classics like thick rounds of braised squid in a moody black pepper and garlic sauce, or chunks of white fish mixed with a fragrant, coarse curry paste before being wrapped in banana leaf and grilled. The main event, though, is the selection of whole fish and huge river prawns, sold by weight and grilled over coals. Usually, they’re served with jungle herbs and an assertive nahm jim seafood, the ideal foil by the bitter notes of charred skin and gorgeous, giving flesh within.
The dining room, with its blend of industrial chic and traditional Thai elements, provides the perfect backdrop for such considered, respectful cooking. There’s even a short selection of natural wine, with a bottle of Wabi Sabi Orange Moon from the Niederösterreich region of Austria clocking in at 1400 baht (£32) and offering a restrained funk and plenty of acidity.
Whilst Maadae isn’t a blowout meal (certainly not by Bangkok standards), it’s one of the more premium places on our list of the best places to eat in Chiang Mai. Expect to pay 2000 baht (£45) for two, before drinks. It’s very much worth it for the kind of spread or spanking fresh seafood you won’t find too often in Thailand’s second city.
Facebook: maadae.slowfish
Website: 86 88 Tha Phae Road, Tambon Chang Moi, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50300, Thailand
Laab Ton Koi, San Sai District
Ideal for experiencing the best raw laab in Northern Thailand…
A tiny shack a twenty minute drive out of Chiang Mai Old City, tucked away in the San Sai district, might not be the first place you’d think of for a culinary pilgrimage…
…Scrap that; it’s exactly the kind of place you’d think of. It’s worth the journey, the language barrier and the rest, as Laab Ton Koi serves what many locals consider to be the best laab in Chiang Mai. Opening at 11am sharp, this humble eatery typically sells out within three hours, the meat minced fresh each day and only going so far, so arriving early is essential.
The star dish here is their laab kwai dip (raw buffalo) – a perfectly minced creation that’s generously but not excessively seasoned with a blend of spices including makwen peppercorns and cumin, then mixed with fresh green cow bile for an authentic northern Thai flavour profile. The result is a wonderfully complex dish that combines herbs both astringent and floral, bitter bile, and beautifully textured meat.
Since you’ve made the effort to get here, you shouldn’t dine on laab (and sticky rice) alone. Don’t miss their gaeng om moo (pork intestine soup) – a herb-rich broth that serves as the perfect accompaniment to the laab. The restaurant also offers sa sa-doong, a barely-blanched meat dish whose name literally translates to ‘jolted raw slices’.
At just 40 baht per dish, this is one of the best value-for-money experiences you’ll find in Chiang Mai. Just remember – this isn’t tourist-oriented dining, so expect a local experience with minimal English spoken. Time to brush up on your Thai.
Address: San Na Meng, San Sai District, Chiang Mai 50210, Thailand
Yangzi Jiang, Nimmanhaemin
Ideal for contemporary Chinese dining in a traditional Lanna setting…
We’re back in Nimmanhaemin, somewhat in awe of Yangzi Jiang’s regal, refined take on Chinese-Catonese cuisine, helmed by a chef with Hong Kong roots. When you’re just a little tired of another bowl of khao soi, Yangzi Jiang is just the ticket, its stellar dim sum selection during lunch hours a welcome diversion from the city’s usual charms. The signature steamed scallop dumplings with black truffles are a standout, and one of Chiang Mai’s most decadent dishes.
Set in a contemporary Lanna house (there’s a theme developing here), the restaurant has an elegant, hushed atmosphere that perfectly complements its refined cuisine. While the dim sum is the main draw, their Peking duck has earned a reputation as one of the most memorable versions in the city, arriving with breasts delicately portioned and bordered with a clock’s worth of numeral bronzed, glass-like skin. This is supreme cooking, with age-old techniques precisely delivered.
Their lunch menu is particularly popular among Chinese tourists and well-heeled locals, so reservations are recommended, especially during peak hours. This is one of the pricier options in the Nimman area, but the quality of ingredients and execution justifies the cost; an excellent choice for those looking to diversify their Chiang Mai dining experience beyond Thai cuisine.
Facebook: @Yangzi-Jiang
Address: 10 Nimmanahaeminda Road Soi 5, Suthep, Mueang Chiang Mai, Chiang Mai, 50200, Thailand
Huen Phen, Si Phum
Ideal for atmospheric northern Thai dining in the heart of the old city…
Set in an atmospheric old teak house near the centre of the old city, Huen Phen feels frozen in time in the best possible way. The dining room is adorned with antiques and vintage photos, while chunky wooden tables and the occasional touch of opulence nod to the city’s royal heritage.
The food is just as traditional as the setting, and Huen Phen – though not the gold-standard purveyors of the good stuff – is a great place to try savoury, herbal Northern Thai classics like gaeng hang lay, various preparations of Northern-style laab, and nahm prik noom served with fresh and steamed vegetables and pork crackling.
The brick-a-brack, organised chaos of the dining room(s) adds to the charm here – your dining companions on any given visit might include several golden, looming phaya naga, a deer with comically large antlers, or a wooden fertility statue, tumescent and distracting. Yep, this is a vibes-first kind of place, and it’s all the better for it.
Prices are keen too, with most main dishes coming in under 100 baht. Just be prepared to wait for a table during peak lunch hours. Once you nab one, settle in, order a few cold beers (or even a little Sang Som with soda) and luxuriate in the generosity of Lanna cuisine and culture.
Address: 112 Si Phum, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chang Wat Chiang Mai 50200, Thailand
Rot Chun Yiam Beef Noodle, Chang Khlan
Ideal for possibly the best beef noodle soup in northern Thailand…
For over three decades, this humble shophouse has been serving what many consider to be the finest Chinese-style beef noodles in Chiang Mai. We’re certainly inclined to agree with the many here; this is a light but luxurious bowl of the good stuff that manages to be satisfying but not too sweet, and not overly reliant on MSG for backbone. It’s a rare find in a bowl of noodles in Thailand these days…
The broth is the star – deeply flavoured with Chinese herbs and pristine in its clarity. Tiny globules of beef fat pool at the edges of the bowl, indicating just the right level of skimming has happened here.
The beef bits – balls with good factory bounce, offal, slices – have just the right amount of chew. As in, a fair bit of chew. There’s an obligatory lettuce leaf bobbing about, as there should be.
And if you’re not in the mood for noodles (bit of a weird choice to pitch up here if you’re not), they also do an excellent beef yellow curry served over rice. Don’t leave without trying their homemade coconut ice cream for dessert – the perfect way to reset after that steaming bowl of soup.
Address: 164, 48 Changklan Rd, Tambon Chang Khlan, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50100, Thailand
Siri Wattana Market, Santhitham
Ideal for an authentic local market experience away from the tourist trail…
About a kilometre north of the old city, Siri Wattana (also known as Thanin Market) offers one of Chiang Mai’s most genuine market experiences. This is where locals come to do their daily shopping and grab a quick, delicious meal, and it’s somewhere you should do the same.
The market is divided into distinct sections – fresh produce, meats, prepared foods – but it’s the khao gaeng (rice and curry) section that draws us back time and time again. Here, dozens of silver trays hold different curries, stir-fries and soups, all priced at local-friendly rates (expect to pay no more than 40-50 baht per dish).
The best strategy here is to point at whatever looks good (you could, of course, learn some Thai). Don’t miss the hor mok pla, a fish curry steamed in banana leaves and topped with coconut cream. There are also excellent takeaway options of sai ua, served with smoked green chilli relish, and deep fried fermented pork ribs. The som tam pla raa here is great, too, found at the right of the prepared foods section of the market.
If your appetite still isn’t satiated, there’s also excellent one-bowl wonders prepared to order in the canteen-like space as you enter – the pad grapao that’s served to the left of the market as you enter is an excellent version of a classic. If you can’t find it, just listen out for the clatter of the one-woman-wok operation.
Website: Siriwattana Market 193 Changpuak Rd, Tambon Chang Phueak, เมือง Chiang Mai 50300, Thailand
Free Bird Cafe, Nimmanhaemin
Ideal for conscientious eating that doesn’t compromise on flavour…
This socially conscious cafe in the Nimman (we’re shortening now) area isn’t just about serving great food – though it certainly does that. Run by Thai Freedom House, a non-profit organisation supporting Shan refugees, Free Bird Cafe puts its profits towards educational projects and community support.
The menu features traditional Shan recipes, many plant-based by design, alongside a broader selection of international dishes.
Stick with the Shan stuff; it’s superb. Their lahpet thoke (Burmese tea leaf salad) is a standout – crunchy, tangy and utterly addictive – whilst the red lentil soup could cure the very worst whiskey soda hangover. For breakfast, try the Burmese tofu scramble with pennywort and turmeric, alongside a roasted barley and chicory drink, which boasts coffee-adjacent notes but none of the caffeine.
Facebook: FreeBirdCafe
Address: 14 ถนนศิริมังมังคลาจารย์ Mueang Chiang Mai District, 50200, Thailand
Baan Landai, Si Phum
Ideal for refined Thai dining in characterful surrounds…
Hidden down a quiet soi in the old city, Baan Landai serves up creative, Kingdom-spanning cuisine in a setting that manages to be both chic and homely. Chef Landai weaves together regional flavours without things ever becoming jarring, creating dishes that respect heritage while adding enough contemporary touches to keep things interesting in a city arguably more in thrall to traditional recipes than innovation.
Don’t worry; there’s no green curry foams or exploding spheres of coconut milk here. Rather, artfully presented (there are a lot of circular banana leaves), precisely seasoned plates from across the Thai culinary canon reign supreme. The crab fried rice is perhaps the signature here, featuring those massive, inviting chunks that only Thailand seems to truly indulge in. A fiesty af nahm jim seafood is obligatory as accoutrement.
Whatever you order, save room for dessert – their modern take on mango sticky rice is worth loosening your belt for.
Facebook: baanlandaifinethaicuisine
Address: 252 13 Prapokklao Road, Tambon Si Phum, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50200, Thailand
The House By Ginger, Si Phum
Ideal for date night dining with a difference…
Something of an old town institution, The House by Ginger has been in operation for over two decades, and remains one of Chiang Mai’s most consistently excellent fine dining-leaning restaurants. The quirky, stylish dining room – full of colour and energy – sets the scene for a menu that skilfully blends northern Thai classics with a few more contemporary flourishes (Thai tacos, Thai calamari…you get the picture).
It’s an approach that has earned the restaurant Michelin recognition for the past four years (since the guide came to Thailand’s second city). Premium ingredients are a focus here – think New Zealand beef in their massaman curry, or organic vegetables and herbs picked daily from their own Ginger Farm and put to good use in stir fries and salads. The Chiang Mai platter, keenly priced at 690 baht offers the ideal introduction to northern flavours, while their creative cocktail and kombucha list provides plenty of reasons to linger. Ours is a Ginger Sling, if you’re heading to the bar.
Address: 199 Mun Mueang Rd, Tambon Si Phum, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50200, Thailand
Website: thehousebygingercm.com
Kiti Panit, Tha Pae
Ideal for elegant dining in a historic setting…
Set in a beautifully restored 1880s teak mansion that served as the city’s first ever general store, Kiti Panit offers a glimpse into Chiang Mai’s glamorous past while serving some of its finest contemporary Thai cuisine. The original woodwork, flooring and furniture have all been lovingly preserved, creating an atmosphere of understated grandeur that’s impossible to resist.
The kitchen gently reimagines traditional Lanna cuisine with a few opulent twists – their khao soi comes with stewed beef shank that’s been cooked to melting tenderness, while the yam pakchi gai yang sees a bronzed, burnished chicken bread bedding down with a tangle of coriander varieties tossed into a salad that is replete with a shards of crispy chicken skin. Words that any hungry diner wants to read, let’s be honest.
Whilst we don’t think mango sticky rice’s original form can be improved upon, the grilled caramelised mango with pandan flavored sticky rice is certainly an interesting take on a classic, the mango itself bar-marked invitingly and kissed with smoke. You know what? We think there’s room in the world for both tradition and innovation, when it comes to dessert.
Website: kitipanit.com
Address: 19 Tha Phae Road, Chang Khlan Sub-district, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50100, Thailand
Midnight Sticky Rice, Chang Khlan
Ideal for late-night feasting after a few Chang beers…
Made famous by Anthony Bourdain’s visit but beloved by locals long before that, Midnight Sticky Rice is the perfect spot for post-revelry sustenance. It’s an order-by-pointing affair, but rest assured that everything will be spicy, fried and utterly delicious.
The menu changes nightly depending on what’s fresh and available, but you can usually count on finding excellent som tam, grilled meats, and of course, plenty of sticky rice to soak it all up. Just follow the crowds and the aroma of grilling meat, and prepare for plenty of toasting with your increasingly jolly neighbours.
Address: 139 Kampangdin Rd, Tambon Phra Sing, เมือง Chiang Mai 50000, Thailand
Khao Kha Moo Chang Phueak, Chang Phueak
Ideal for the best braised pork leg in town…
No visit to Chiang Mai would be complete without a pilgrimage to the famous ‘Cowboy Hat Lady’ at Chang Phueak Gate. Her khao kha moo (braised pork leg over rice) has achieved legendary status, and rightly so – the meat is so tender you could practically shake it off the bone.
From 5pm onwards, you’ll find her distinctive cowboy hat bobbing behind mountains of perfectly braised pork, served over rice with a medium-boiled egg, pickled mustard greens, raw garlic and a searingly hot chilli sauce. At around 50-60 baht a plate, this is one of the city’s greatest culinary bargains.
Despite her celebrity status (she’s been featured on countless food shows), there’s no hint of tourist pricing here, and the quality remains as high as ever. The queue can be long, but it moves quickly – just look for the stall with the cowboy hat-wearing vendor and join the throng.
Address: ประตูเมือง Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50200, Thailand
Som Tam Udon, Chang Phueak
Ideal for all your Isaan food cravings…
This beloved Isaan institution might just serve the best som tam in Chiang Mai. The restaurant’s (the country’s) signature salad comes in countless variations – you can customise everything down to the specific ingredients and spice level – but whatever you choose, expect fresh, fiery flavours that don’t hold back.
The grilled meats here are equally excellent. Order the gai yang (grilled chicken) or kor moo yang (grilled pork neck) to accompany your som tam, and don’t forget to get sticky rice to help temper the heat. Head up to the huge communal dipping sauce station and help yourself to complete the deal.
Though prices are slightly higher than a street stall, a feast for two still won’t set you back more than 250 baht, in a huge, expansive space that’s just crying out for a big party and plenty of beers poured over ice.
Address: 3, 2 Soi Tantawan, Chang Phueak, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50300, Thailand
Han Teung, Suthep
Ideal for northern Thai food in tranquil surrounds…
Set in a converted home with a distinctive triangular roof in the university district, Han Teung offers a peaceful retreat from Chiang Mai’s bustle. The small portions here are actually a blessing in disguise – they allow you to sample a wider range of northern Thai specialities than you might otherwise be able to manage.
Don’t miss the sai ua, fragrant with lemongrass and kaffir lime, or their excellent chilli soups. The pork dishes are particularly good (as is always the way up north), and everything comes with an assertive kick of spice.
If it’s the season (beginning in earnest in mid-February and ending when things cool down in late June-ish), round things off with an order of so-called ‘Northern caviar’; weaver ant larvae, served pleasingly unadorned and boasting an agreeable sour tang owing to their diet of mango leaves.
With dishes rarely exceeding 100 baht, Han Teung is excellent value too.
Address: Suthep, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50200, Thailand
Ton Payom Market, Suthep
Ideal for an authentic northern Thai breakfast…
We end at Ton Payom, a bustling morning market northwest of the old city where locals head for their morning fix of khanom jeen nahm ngiaw (spicy noodle soup) for a pleasingly mellow, refreshing breakfast bowl. The atmosphere is kinetic, especially around 7am when office workers and students stop by for breakfast.
Look out for the stall selling sai oua that’s still sizzling from the grill, and don’t miss the khao ram fuen – a jellied rice noodle dish served with tamarind sauce that’s particularly refreshing on a hot morning. You know what? We think we might just stay here a while…
Address: ตลาดต้นพยอม, ซอย, Tambon Su Thep, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50200, Thailand
The Bottom Line
Whether you’re seeking fiery northern curries, perfectly grilled meats, or innovative takes on traditional dishes, Chiang Mai’s food scene has something for everyone. Just remember to pack loose-fitting clothes – you’re going to need them.