Though there are a few islands in this part of the Aegean Sea which lay claim to being The Queen of the Cyclades, it’s Mykonos which quite rightfully takes the crown. Here at IDEAL, the famous island is one member of the royal family who we’re quite happy to kneel before. Fortunately, the sand is soft and inviting and the only investiture a golden, glowing suntan.
Whilst Mykonos is perhaps most famous for being one of the world’s most glamorous party destinations, beloved of the LGBTQ+ community, champagne sipping celebrities and aspiring influencers alike, it’s also an island rich in history, culture and culinary wonder.
Whether you’re Greek island hopping, visiting the Island of the Winds to get swept up in the renowned 24 hour party lifestyle, or you’re looking for a calmer time in Mykonos, one of the island’s key attractions is its food. With the glamorous party set comes swanky fine dining restaurants, sure, but you’ll find tavernas and tradition here, too. So, set aside a day for some foodie thrills, with this IDEAL day out in Mykonos for foodies; here’s where to eat in Mykonos Old Town.
BREAKFAST AT GIORAS
Greece is blessed with some of the best bread, pastry and other baked goods in the world, some savoury, some sweet and all totally delicious. The country’s natural affinity with water, flour, the charcoal grill and wood-fired oven is indisputable; historians widely agree that it was the Ancient Greeks who perfected baking as a profession, developing techniques learnt from Egypt and adapting them to suit larger scale, industrial operations. Along the way, they’re widely attributed with inventing the free-standing, pre-heated oven with a door as a way of optimising the process of baking.
Anyway, enough of the history lesson, we’re hungry. We’re basing our IDEAL foodie day out in Mykonos in Chóra, the maze of narrow streets that make up the absurdly picturesque Mykonos Old Town. Within the cobbled lanes and courtyards, and buildings rendered in whitewash and the iconic Cycladic blue, you’ll find some fantastic bakeries with a diverse range of traditional bread, such as Bobota, Psomi Horiatiko, Skorthopsomo, and of course, Pitta.
But it’s only morning and we’ve a long day of eating ahead of us, so instead we’re looking for a gorgeous Greek pastry for breakfast. Wondering where to eat in Mykonos Old Town? At Gioras, the oldest working bakery on the island, which dates back to the 18th century, you’ll find a rustic set up, with white walls, wooden beams and a wood-fired oven. You’ll also find freshly baked Spanakopita, a spinach and feta pie wrapped in filo pastry which makes for a fantastic breakfast.
Or, should you prefer something sweet to start your day, Melopita – honey pie – is served here. It’s a traditional Mykonian pastry, made with honey, cinnamon, and a cheese native to the island, Tirovolia, and is just delicious. Gioras bakery also does a superb version of baklava, if your sweet tooth isn’t yet sated; decisions, decisions!
Greece has a fantastic coffee culture, too, and there are several simple cafes lining the water in Chóra serving excellent cups of the good stuff. Vegera is a favourite; housed in a historic coffee shop and boasting gorgeous views of the water, the coffee is as good as the vista.
A MORNING ON AGIOS IOANNIS BEACH FOLLOWED BY A SEAFOOD LUNCH
From Gioras, take a short stroll through the Old Town, along Agiou Efthimiou to Fabrika Bus Terminal, where regular public buses depart to all of Mykonos’ main beaches. Tickets are cheap, – you’ll pay, at most, €3 for a one way trip – and departure times and destinations are marked clearly at the terminals.
Though the island has a reputation for high energy parties, Mykonos can do serene and secluded just as well. For a morning on the beach with a great restaurants close by for lunch, Nammos at Psarou Beach, Principote at Panormos Beach and Alemagou at Ftelia Beach are resorts and beach clubs with their own restaurants offering great healthy dishes with Mediterranean menus of, primarily, fresh fish and seafood.
But since we only have a day and we’re keen to stay close to the Old Town, we’re heading to Agios Ioannis beach this morning, which is just ten minutes by bus from Fabrika. Buses leave every hour, at 30 minutes past the hour from 9:30 to 20:30, though this is subject to change.
After a morning spent sprawling under the sun, a lunch at Hippie Fish will be well earned. Ignore the curious name; this restaurant sits in the most gorgeous location overlooking the sand and sea, and the menu is inspired by the latter’s bounty (thankfully, not the former, that would be gritty). Here, you can expect to eat sea urchins (a local delicacy) alongside freshly caught cockles and clams, and the restaurant’s superb shrimp and saffron risotto, too.
Oysters are also eaten enthusiastically on the island, and there are several nearby private beaches offering oyster tasting of produce handpicked by fishermen that morning. If you’re staying in a hotel, they’ll be able to arrange a lunchtime oyster picnic for you. Or, if you’re staying in one of Mykonos’ many luxury villas, then the guys at Mykonos Villas can arrange a private gourmet chef and a boat to your own private beach. That’s if you’re staying with the company, of course.
GRAB A LATE AFTERNOON GYROS AT LEONIDAS
Next on the IDEAL day out for foodies in Mykonos, we’re heading back to the Old Town for a spot of shopping and snacking. Matoyianni Street is the most famous street in the Old Town, full of cute cafes, bars and boutique shops. Here, it’s fun just to lose yourself in Chóra’s labyrinth of white-washed lanes, where every turn is a picture perfect Instagram shot, and discover your own favourite places as you go.
In the high season, which tends to run from late May to early September, it gets chockablock in Chora, with the tight, pedestrianised lanes easily becoming congested with tourists. Matoyianni Street is no exception, so it’s best to visit outside of its busiest hours, which are between 10am and 5pm.
Greeks eat late, typically between 8 and 10 pm, and many tavernas and restaurants aren’t open before 7pm, so you’ll need something to tide you over until then. Tired of the crowds, we’re ducking off the main pedestrianised shopping area in search of gyros, Greece’s favourite fast food. Similar to shawarma, kebab or even tacos al pastor, chefs slice lamb or chicken off a vertical rotating spit (gyros translates as ‘turn’) and stuff slices into warm pita. Finally, it’s topped with tzatziki.
There are several girádiko in town which are dedicated to serving the good stuff. Our favourite spot is Leonidas, next to Marietta’s Market and just a five minute stroll west of Matoyianni. The gyros here are exceptional and there are a handful of alfresco tables. Be warned; getting a seat is nigh on impossible. Fortunately, gyros are a real grab-and-go affair and can be enjoyed quite happily on the move.
Then, some more strolling and shopping before it’s time for a pre-dinner drink.
ENJOY AN OUZO AT KASTRO’S & WATCH THE SUNSET
Perhaps the most photographed and charming area of Mykonos, ‘Little Venice’ is a picturesque neighbourhood built on the sea during the 18th century, and perhaps the most popular part of Chóra. With restaurants and bars sitting right on the Aegean sea’s edge, if you think you’ve suddenly been transported to Italy’s famous city built on water, then you’re not alone – hence the name.
With the azure Aegean lightly lapping, literally, at your feet, and with views of Mykonos’ iconic white windmills behind, Little Venice is perhaps the most striking spot on the island. It’s not harmed by the fact that the sunset looks fantastic from here, so pull up a chair at one of Little Venice’s bars, enjoy a drink, and appreciate the view before dinner.
Greek has several spirits unique to the country, including a version of raki, tsipouro, masticha and kitron, but the dry, anise-flavoured ouzo is considered the national drink of Greece. The country has a keen ouzerie tradition; places essentially devoted to the art of pairing ouzo with nibbles, with cured octopus a particular favourite match to the cherished liquor.
Alternatively, the Mykonos luxury accommodation experts at Elite Estates recommend enjoying ‘’a small bottle of tsipouro; a local tasty and usually homemade strong alcohol drink’’, which you can find in several bars around Chóra…well, it would be rude not to!
Sadly, as money and tourism have flowed into Mykonos Old Town, the ouzeries have disappeared in favour of trendier joints, but many of Little Venice’s bars still have extensive spirits and meze menus, in the Greek tradition. Rather than shotting the stuff, locals like to drink it with a couple of ice cubes, which turns the clear liquor into an opaque, milky white, ideally accompanied by a few plates of mezedes.
The best place to do so with views of the bay and sunset is undoubtedly Kastro’s, which has a spectacular location right next to the water. If you can get a table in their narrow, alley-like dining space, do so. It’s just magic and one of Mykonos’ most iconic spots. Here, you can enjoy a few appetizers with your ouzo, including classics like taramasalata, calamari, Mykonian cheese rolls and steamed mussels, or you can have a more fully-fledged sit down meal.
Whilst we adore the location at Kastro’s, we’ll save our appetite for a larger dinner a little later, at Niko’s Taverna, just a two minute walk away.
A LATE DINNER AT NIKO’S TAVERNA, LITTLE VENICE
Niko’s Taverna is one of Mykonos’ most beloved institutions, untroubled by more modern gastronomic flourishes and proudly, resolutely traditional in its food and service; a surprisingly tricky find in Mykonos, we should add!
Here you’ll find Greek food cooked the old school way, with the taverna’s tables spilling out into the seafront square which sits in front of the restaurant and the atmosphere boisterous and convivial from early afternoon until late on into the evening. As we said earlier, the Greeks like to eat late, taking their time over the meal and conversation, so it’s best to book a table here, particularly if you’re planning on a late dinner, which, after all the food we’ve eaten today, we most certainly are.
Your forward planning will be rewarded with the freshest fish, cooked with respect and free from frippery. The lobster spaghetti is rightly considered a speciality of the restaurant but even better is the octopus and orzo. The smartest order, though, is simply grilled fish – often local bream or bass – caught that day and sold by weight (always reassuring) and a selection of traditional meze. Bliss!
DRINKS & DANCING ALONG MATOYIANNI STREET
Well, considering Mykonos has something of a reputation as a party island, it wouldn’t be right to end the night now. Instead, let’s see this one off in style with some drinks and dancing. In Matoyianni, you’ll find Astra and Queen bar, two perennially popular late night haunts which reliably begin the evening in a sophisticated way but as the night progresses, begin to let their hair down. The later you stay, the more raucous they become.
For something a little more sedate, and not to be confused with London’s cherished steam bun restaurant group, BAO boasts beautiful views of the bay and inventive cocktails. Ouzo, raki or even some Greek wine? Choose your poison, just make sure it’s not served by Achlys…
See you tomorrow to nurse our hangovers over another Mykoni pastry? You know you want to.
