The plan was never to stay in Bangkok. Garima Arora had just spent three formative years at Noma in Copenhagen and was heading home to India when, by chance, she made a pit stop in the city. One trip north to Udon Thani with a chef friend, one market visit, and the deep connection between Indian and Thai food cultures opened her eyes to something she couldn’t ignore. “I really thought we could do something interesting here,” she has said. In April 2017, she opened Gaa. “Now, Bangkok is my second home in so many ways.”
Bangkok already had famous Indian restaurants, places known for their showboating: emoji menus, umami bombs, dishes you licked off the plate. Gaa was something more considered, regal where its predecessors were raucous, its cooking rooted in Indian culinary grammar applied to Thai lexicon, and a curiosity about what those traditions share.
Her first Michelin star arrived just a year after opening, making her the first Indian woman to receive one; the second came in 2023, and she remains the only female Indian chef with two.
Gaa now occupies a baan ruen thai, a traditional Thai wooden house, this one originally built in Ayutthaya, transported piece by piece to Bangkok and reassembled using joinery that requires no nails. The setting lends the evening a stillness that could verge on the stifling if it weren’t for a neat design trick in the dining room.
The ground floor Garden Room has recently been reimagined by Bangkok firm Architectkidd, with sweeping gold chain-mail curtains that hang from ceiling tracks in curved formations creating semi-private dining pods. From your vast round table you can hear the murmur of the other cocoons, catch the shadows of silhouettes, sense proximity and motion. It’s almost voyeuristic, how a medieval sex party might have looked; all that shared intimacy without direct eye contact, silhouettes moving behind veils, the awareness of other people’s pleasure happening just out of reach. Each pod, seen from a distance with a circular spotlight beaming down from above, also manages to look like how UFOs landing on earth look in the the movies. Both comparisons will sound absurd until you see the room.
Now then, where’s my goblet of mead? Instead, an opening salvo of chaat to centre you back in your cocoon. The first arrived in a ceramic pot by Aman Khanna of Claymen, a striking piece with a big round dome and a pursed little mouth, like a sleeping Yoshitomo Nara figure. It’s a playful touch presented with no explanation, but a little background reading reveals each pot has a different face, inspired, according to Arora, by the faces you see on the streets of India, because this course is all about Indian street food.
You lift the lid to find a riff on Delhi’s beloved aloo chaat, a crispy nest of potato and a potato foam that together resembled a baby jellyfish, but was warming and familiar. A strong start. The anar bhel that followed, a frozen pomegranate disc over yoghurt and greens, passed without incident beyond the jolt of ice. Alongside, a rosé champagne and Chiang Mai strawberry kombucha, arriving in the same blush pink, both pert and full of promise.
AlooAnar
Things picked up with the tuna bhel. Folded khakra, the Gujarati thin cracker, arrived with a bowl of raw tuna in a chilli-spiked soy dressing. You spoon the tuna into the khakra yourself, a satisfying, hands-on gesture that also keeps that cracker crisp. The khakra looks like a hard-shell taco, which is worth noting only because it categorically is not one; it is a Gujarati staple, and the visual similarity is a neat little trap for assumptions. Fresh and lively, it’s the best of the opening run.
Then puchka, the Bengali version of pani puri. The Claymen pot returned, but this time the mouth was open and the bite was lodged inside it like an offering on the tongue, daring you to reach in and risk having your hand bitten off in the process. Admire it momentarily; the mango chutney on top was glossy and vivid. It woke up the whole room, its inners salty and spicy and vivacious enough to recalibrate your attention for everything that followed.
Tuna BhelPuchka
A chakna course next, India’s answer to bar snacks. Here, three toasts on upturned ceramic columns, to be eaten shortest to tallest. Crayfish first, super savoury with an undulating sesame flavour, delicate and precise. Then fish floss and rasam, the rasam turned into a spicy dust that tasted like the seasoning on Monster Munch, or the flavour packet from instant ramen. This is not a criticism.
The lamb tartare was the standout, raw but smoked, with julienned seaweed that shared the lamb’s minerality. The smoke lingered long into the next course, the kind of sequencing that showed a kitchen thinking several moves ahead. The mango and jasmine pairing with the chakna was heady, a real winner.
Crayfish, Fish Floss & Rasam, Lamb Tartare
The saag and homemade butter course was superlative. It arrived in a coconut fibre nest: two dark green spheres of spinach paratha – fondant like in texture – and a small wooden bowl of butter. The butter was house-whipped to the point of tasting really, almost aggressively, cheesy, then topped with jaggery, commonly consumed in India as an Ayurvedic remedy for the negative stomach effects of pollution (Bangkok’s AQI was in triple figures that day – what foresight!). A cloudy, undiluted nama genshu from Saga brought its own brain fog, in the best possible way.
The combination of heavily cultured butter and the brooding, round sweetness of jaggery is a classic North Indian pairing, but tasting it here, this perfectly formed, it felt like something entirely new. It’s also a dish with roots. Arora’s paternal grandmother used to keep a cupboard with a lattice door where she would watch cream fermenting into butter; Arora has said she didn’t understand what her grandmother was doing until she became a cook herself.
Saag & Homemade ButterSaagSummer Curry
The summer curry is another signature, one that has evolved over the years but always centres on misdirection. You expect hot; you get cold. Today, it arrives in a spider crab shell that had long been in a state of torpor in the freezer. Inside was green apple granita, sticky black rice, coconut cream and the clean, sweet, thrumming flavour of crab. Delicious, strangely cathartic, and a dish that makes you reassess a few things. Curry does not have to mean balmy or bold, and Indian food does not have to meet you where you expect it to.
Then gucchi, wild Himalayan morel mushrooms in a golden curry with six types of millet, served in a terracotta pot that made an already earthy dish feel even more so. Gucchi are India’s (according to some, the world’s) most expensive mushroom, foraged by hand from the forests of Kashmir and Himachal Pradesh above 2,000 metres. They cannot be cultivated and their flavour is irreplicable. The curry was topped with candied onions, more chewy than crispy, and the whole thing was toasty and savoury but surprisingly light. A luxury ingredient layered over something ancient and everyday, our sommelier said it reminded her of childhood in Russia, that every country has a grain.
Gucchi
A mulberry and spice soft arrived alongside a Spanish Mencía, both the same deep, inky red. Every non-alcoholic pairing had been colour-matched to its corresponding wine, and placed side by side they were near impossible to tell apart. A nice touch that carried some gravitas, removing any sense of hierarchy between drinkers and non-drinkers at the table.
The beef ‘kebab’, two blushing slabs of jasmine wagyu from Khon Kaen in actuality, came with a glossy sauce that Arora calls Thai garam masala; her own invention, the Indian spice blend remade with Thai spices. It recalled a French peppercorn sauce but the provenance was entirely different. Surin jasmine rice cooked in ghee on a lotus leaf sat beside it, jewelled with pomelo and diced mustard green. A final flourish of luk pra grated over the top, a fermented Southern Thai seed with an umami richness closer to parmesan than the Mughlai nut I’d mistaken it for. Substantial and grounding after the precision of the earlier courses, it felt like a payoff.
Surin Jasmine Rice
By dessert, the meal’s recurring theme had crystallised; shared food memories across cultures. It had been there all along, in the khakra and the millets and the Thai garam masala, but the final three courses made it impossible to miss. Malai toast wrapped in spun sugar threads that recalled roti sai mai, the Ayuthayya street dessert. India and Thailand, threaded together in spun sugar.
Then chai and Parle-G. A cup of chai-perfumed custard with raspberry coulis at the bottom and a miniature Parle-G biscuit on top, finished with gold leaf because why not? The saucer came with an actual Parle-G advert, the world’s best-selling biscuit, and what you’re looking at is essentially a cup of tea and a biscuit, the slowing down ritual of kitchens the world over.
Chai & Parle-GMalai toast
To close, miang kham x paan: a mash-up of betel leaf snacks, here topped with chocolate ganache and a fruity compote. Miang kham is Thai, paan is Indian, but they share almost everything, the betel leaf, the single-bite format, the fact that both exist as street food and ceremony simultaneously, the drawn out, developing flavour that rewards a bit of purposeful chewing.
The final pairing was clarified coconut milk and tonka bean, and it may have been the best drink of the evening, clean and precise and extraordinarily pronounced, a cocktail in all but name. Arora’s commitment to the non-alcoholic programme reportedly grew during her first pregnancy, and it shows.
The tasting menu is priced at just north of THB 5200 per person (around £125), which, in the context of Bangkok’s increasingly opulent dining scene, represents fair value for what is a long, carefully paced, genuinely surprising meal. The cooking throughout was precise, delicate, finely spiced, and a different showing to whatever assumptions you might bring to the table about the weight of Indian food, if such a catch-all term does the cuisine any kind of justice. Service was polished and present, the kitchen team bringing several dishes out themselves with visible pride.
What stays with me is not any single dish but the thread running through all of them. The insistence that food memories are shared across borders. Arora has said that Gaa is an extremely personal space for her, an extension of who she is, that it is not the same without her there. On the evidence of this meal, that feels about right.
There’s something real synonymous feeling about the traditional Sunday Roast and the Georgian city of Bath. In this storied, honey-hued city, there’s a sense of homeliness and heritage that chimes so well with the time-honoured tradition of eating fuck loads of meat with loved ones and drinking ‘till ruddy faced.
Whether you’re a student reluctantly receiving your parents for the day, a hungover rugby fan looking to refuel and forget last night’s misdemeanors, or a tourist looking to settle into one of Bath’s beautiful pubs for the afternoon, you’ve come to the right place for proper guidance. Here are the very best Sunday Roasts in Bath.
*Owing to the popularity of enjoying your Sunday Roast out in this corner of the UK, and because of the popularity of Bath with tourists, you’ll likely need to book in advance for all of the pubs and restaurants on our list.*
Chequers, Rivers Street
Chequers has long been a bastion of British hospitality in Bath, boasting a history that stretches back to 1776. Sitting pretty on resdiential Rivers Street and just a short stroll from the Royal Crescent and the Circus, this gastropub serves up a Sunday Roast that is deeply rooted in tradition yet feels refreshingly modern. With its cosy ambiance focused around a welcoming central bar that’s the beating heart of the dining room, and replete with wooden beams and open fires, it provides the quintessential setting within the quintessential city to enjoy a roast dinner.
Images via Chequers instagram
With a Michelin Bib Gourmand 2026 plaque proudly nailed to the entrance and regularly named as the best Sunday lunch/roast dinner in Bath, the chefs at Chequers take immense pride in their craftsmanship. Their roast beef is sourced from prime Hereford herds and aged to perfection, the chicken has roamed freely in nearby Castlemead, and the pork belly comes from the esteemed Middle White. Each hits the table with carefully curated accompaniments to bring out their best side – black garlic emulsion, horseradish and watercress; celeriac remoulade; and baked apple compote, respectively, if you’re asking.
The catch-all trimmings are a league apart – think fluffy, crisp duck fat roast potatoes, and lovingly prepared, seasonal veg that retains just the right amount of crunch.
The pièce de résistance is unquestionably their signature Yorkshire pudding, a glorious golden dome that is the epitome of comfort food. Homemade gravy with a depth of flavour extracted from, you know, actual bones rather than gravy granules, seals the deal. You’ll want to request refills of this one…
The Sunday Roast at Chequers runs from midday until 7:30pm, with the roast beef and trimmings priced at £26.
Just outside Bath city centre lies the Hare & Hounds, a gem of a pub with a prime position on high (well, at the top of Lansdown Road) with breathtaking views of Bath’s surrounding countryside and down to the city itself. The two mile trek to the pub – all uphill – takes around an hour and represents the perfect excuse to build up an appetite for the H&H’s Sunday Roast (not before one of their famous lamb scotch eggs, mind).
Images via Hare & Hound Instagram
A lavish affair of the usual suspects, plus an apricot and chestnut roast for the vegans in the group, the roasted pork loin is particularly good here, replete with a sheet of puffed, bubbling crackling that’s just about as good as it gets. The appearance of cauliflower cheese, blistered and burnished on top and silky beneath, helps further the case for this being one of Bath’s very best Sunday Roasts.
But really, it’s the views that seal the deal here. The dining room has massive windows that bathe the space in natural light during that Sunday lunch slot, sure, but when the weather is kind, there’s no better place to dine al fresco than the Hare & Hound’s terrace, admiring the Somerset landscape and rewarding yourself with another cloudy cider for the road. You did earn this one, after all.
This one runs from midday until 9:30pm. The roasts hover just above £20.
Back in town and over by the picturesque Royal Victoria Park, The Marlborough Tavern has long been one of Bath’s most cherished pubs, with a history dating back over 200 years and a frontage of fading Bath stone to prove it. The fact that it does excellent pub food is just a bonus!
With its two AA rosettes and inclusion in the Michelin Guide, you can expect a mighty fine roast dinner here, all in warming, welcoming pub surroundings – thick blond wood table, brown leather banquettes, the lowkey hum of locals popping in for a frothy pint…the works.
It’s a laid back atmosphere that somewhat belies the quality of the cooking coming out of the Marlborough Tavern kitchen, the roast beef rump arriving blushing pink – to make the boys wink – and beautifully marbled. It’s served with seasonal vegetables, naturally, and a red wine gravy that’s luscious and glossy, the product of a well managed reduction rather than a gacky roux. It coats that beef rump and its accompanying roasties just right. Regardless, you’ll want an additional side of the truffle and parmesan fries, muttering “double carbs” by way of an excuse/acknowledgement, if you wish.
For the vegetarians, the sweet potato, spinach and mushroom is much more than a mere afterthought; it’s a perfectly formed puck of crisp pastry and well-balanced, just giving vegetables. A vegetarian version of the gravy is just what you need to slather all over it.
In summer, there’s plenty of pleasant outdoor seating to settle into, if you can get over the idea of eating a Sunday Roast in the sun, you sick sort.
The roast dinner at the Marlborough Tavern is served from midday until 8pm, with the beef priced at £26.
Set against the backdrop of Bath’s historical charm, and slap bang in the centre of this handsome city, The Elder offers a Sunday Roast experience that tastefully intertwines traditional British cuisine with modern gastronomic finesse. Located within the charismatic walls of the Indigo Hotel, the establishment prides itself on championing local produce and nose-to-tail eating – expect dishes featuring high-quality, locally-sourced meats, where every cut is given the respect it deserves.
All of this should come as no surprise with a chef/owner of Mike Robinson’s pedigree behind operations. Co-owner of the acclaimed Harwood Arms in Fulham, London’s first and only Michelin-starred pub, which has set a benchmark for excellence in serving British game and wild food, as well as being the man behind the excellent Woodsman in Stratford-Upon-Avon, Robinson knows a thing or two about meat cookery.
No wonder the roast dinner at the Elder is held in such high acclaim, then. Served in the restaurant’s adjacent Brasserie Beau, it’s a refined affair, priced at £25 for slow roast sirloin with all the trimmings, but this premium reflects the calibre of the produce, make no mistake. Robinson’s signature touch is perhaps most evident in the starters, with a wild boar scotch egg a dish very much on brand. Don’t worry if you think things are getting too ‘cheffy’ – roast spuds and seasonal vegetables are part of the main spread here.
While indulging in this feast in a dining room of soothing racing greens, classic Chesterfield leathers and paintings of hunting scenes (what else?), you can’t help but admire how The Elder seamlessly merges Bath’s genteel heritage with modern-day culinary excellence. It’s a dining room you won’t want to leave.
Oh, but before you do leave we should mention that The Elder simply isn’t a place where you skip dessert. The pastry team have a superb touch, with the sweet stuff delivered with true finesse. Though the restaurant’s incredible souffles aren’t part of the menu (a travesty) since the roasts were moved over to the brasserie, there’s still plenty to enjoy; a recent tarte tatin was an exemplary version of a classic. The whole restaurant inspires this kind of confidence, quite honestly.
The Elder’s Sunday Roast runs from 12.30pm until 9pm. The beef is priced at £25, with all the trimmings included.
Though we think it’s something of a push to call Walcot Street ‘Bath’s Artisan Quarter’, there are a couple of murals up along the drag, as well as some more interesting charity shops and a flea market, so we’ll give them that. It’s all relative, after all…
Anyway, on Walcot Street you’ll find a damn good Sunday Roast over at Walcot House, a sprawling, multipurpose venue where chic decor meets industrial elegance, forming the backdrop for a leisurely meal that could easily stretch out for hours.
So, stretch it out; a starter of rock oysters with a wellmade Bloody Mary kicks things off perfectly, and dusts off that hangover that the majority of diners are seemingly suffering from.
Yep, this is one you feel comfortable lingering over as you order that second bottle, the vibe unhurried and the clientele getting progressively looser. On the plate, prime cuts of locally-sourced meats with their rightful relishes (horseradish, mint salsa verde, apple sauce…you know the drill), a parade of organic vegetables, and lashings of homemade gravy (which comes in its own jug – rejoice!), are all executed with aplomb. There are also a couple of larger sharing beefs to luxuriate over if you’re coming with a stacked, spendthrifty squad. The dry-aged chateaubriand with bearnaise is a real treat and, frankly, what Sundays are made for. And yes, that was us gnawing on the bone like a caveman last weekend.
For something lighter, pescatarians (or, you know, just people who fancy a change) are well catered for at Walcot House, with the ray wing and Cafe de Paris butter – a menu item that seems to be everywhere right now – on the list for next time.
Now, how about that third bottle? Actually, the oddly fussy House Rules strictly prohibit ‘continuing drinking’. Perhaps it’s on to the next one…
The Sunday Roast here at Walcot House is served from midday until 4pm, with roast prices ranging from £21 to £27.
A recent(ish) addition to Bath’s culinary scene that’s had several national restaurant critics cooing, Beckford Canteen’s light and bright dining room provides the ideal setting for a laid back but refined Sunday Roast.
Don’t be put off by the proasic-sounding menu here (Who needs flowery descriptions of roast dinners, anyway? Except perhaps you, if you’ve gotten this far through our article), as what matters is what’s on the plate, and at the Beckford Canteen, it’s carefully sourced (and sauced), carefully roasted chicken breast, pork belly and beef sirloin.
The real point of difference of the Sunday Roast here are the – purists, look away – confit potatoes, these lovely, layered things that have been cooked low and slow in duck fat before getting a final crisping up in the pan. A real labour of love, they’re as good as the iconic Quality Chop House version, if not better. There are few better bites in the city than these when positively bathed in the excellent Beckford Canteen gravy.
For a further point of difference in a roundup that’s getting dangerously repetitive, why not end with the cheeseboard, composed of local cheeses? The piquant, crystal-heavy Montgomery Cheddar is particularly good.
Owing to the restaurant’s relationship with the excellent Bottle Shop up the road, the winelist here is a real treat.
Beckford Canteen’s Sunday Roast is served from midday to 6pm, with the roast beef clocking in at £32.
Just a 10-minute drive from the city centre lies Newton Farm Foods, a family-run gem that perfectly embodies the farm-to-fork ethos that makes a British Sunday roast so special. To be enjoying that ethos actually sitting on a, you know, farm, certainly adds to the experience…
Set on the picturesque Duchy of Cornwall Estate (hey, perhaps the King could provide some sausages for brekky from his own digits), this fourth-generation working farm offers a dining experience that connects you directly with the source of your Sunday lunch – quite literally, as you can spot their South Devon, Aberdeen Angus and Hereford cattle grazing in the surrounding fields.
The Sunday roast here is served in The Parlour, their licensed café space that manages to sit somewhere in that sweet spot between rustic charm and contemporary comfort. Floor-to-ceiling windows flood the space with natural light and offer sweeping views across the Duchy Estate’s rolling countryside – proper Somerset pastoral scenes that make you feel like you’re starring in your own BBC period drama.
The meat is, unsurprisingly, the star of the show here. The rare roast rump of Newton beef comes from cattle that have spent their entire lives grazing these very pastures, raised with regenerative farming practices that not only talk the talk, but trot the trot and taste the taste, too. For the indecisive (or the simply greedy), the Combi Roast offers both the beef and their slow-roasted pork belly – the latter being a particular triumph with its perfectly crisp crackling.
All roasts come with the full array of trimmings: properly crispy roast potatoes, Yorkshire puddings that look like they’ve been inflated with a bicycle pump (in the best possible way), seasonal vegetables including a rather lovely carrot and parsnip mash, and braised red cabbage that adds just the right amount of sweet-sharp contrast. The cauliflower cheese, available as a side, is worth the supplementary spend – it arrives blistered and bubbling, exactly as it should be.
For those seeking alternatives to the traditional meat options, their handmade nut roast shows the same care and attention as its meaty counterparts, while the roast fillet of cod with mussel and samphire cream offers a delicate alternative. There is also steak, which got us thinking; there should always be steak as a Sunday lunch option.
Booking is essential here – the combination of field-to-fork credentials, generous portions, and that wholesome, family-farm atmosphere makes this a popular spot with both Bath locals looking for the briefest escape from a city that very rarely feels like it needs escaping. Pro tip: leave room for dessert – everything’s made in-house and the pastry chef clearly knows their way around a pudding.
The roast dinner at Newton Farm Foods runs from midday until 3:30pm, with the roast beef priced at £20.95. The Combi is £24.95.
Located just a Bath stone’s throw from the historic Abbey and the Roman Baths, The Salamander could easily be dubbed the quintessential Bath pub, with a style that’s quirky and idiosyncratic but traditional all at the same time, a line-up of local ciders that you’d need a packet of Omeprazole to take down, and, of course, a fine Sunday Roast.
Here, you’ll find slow-roasted topside of Hereford beef, braised pork belly, a vegan nut roast, sure, but you’ll also find a rare outing for roast lamb, seemingly less popular on the menus of Bath’s best Sunday Roasts than the Big Three. At The Salamander, it’s a shoulder, studded with rosemary and garlic and roasted for 12 hours until silky and giving. In terms of trimmings, cumin roasted beetroot is something of an outlier, but a welcome one at that.
A simple dessert of affogato (two scoops here!) picks you up, dusts you off, and helps you out the door.
This one runs from midday to 6:30pm, and clocks in at £21.95 for a slow roast lamb shoulder.
We end on a roast that’s a little out of town but worth the walk to enjoy. Climb the hill behind Bath Spa station and seek out The Bear Inn, a stylish community pub with a 250-plus history that knows its way around a roast dinner.
Their private dining space is perfect for gatherings, and for sports fans, there’s Sky Sports to catch the games. The roasts here – chicken (complete with pigs in blankets!), beef, porchetta, or vegan wellington – are served with all the trimmings, including Yorkshire pudding (except for the vegan option), making it a feast fit for those who have made the 20 minute walk into more rural Bath.
And hey, if you want to imagine that Carmy has cooked your Sunday lunch for you, then please do; we’re already doing the same thing!
The Sunday Roast at The Bear Inn runs until 7:45pm, and starts at £19.
Cursory mentions of nut roasts and sweet potato wellingtons be damned! Plant-based eaters, we haven’t forgotten about you. Instead, here’s a handy guide to the best vegetarian food in Bath. For all those in a meat coma, you might find relief there, too.
Whilst it may not often be termed as ‘groundbreaking’, the food scene in Cheltenham has long been one of the UK’s strongest. In a place that’s as moneyed as the stones are honeyed, this isn’t much of a surprise.
The town may be famous, first and foremost, for its racing festival and Regency architecture, but its restaurants have been consistently delivering excellent food for decades – from Michelin-starred institutions to characterful independents and a fair amount in between.
In fact, leave the paddock behind (you didn’t sleep in there last night, did you? You look fucked) and you’ll discover a thriving restaurant landscape that perfectly balances refined dining rooms with relaxed independents. So, whether you’re in town for the races or simply exploring this handsome corner of Gloucestershire, here are the best restaurants in Cheltenham.
Lumière
Ideal for innovative fine dining in intimate surroundings…
It took the Michelin inspectors long enough, but they finally got there. Jon and Helen Howe’s intimate restaurant in Cheltenham town centre recently received its first star (some 15 years after first opening), a recognition of cooking – and an atmosphere, too – that manages to be both precise and soulful. Much of what lands on your plate comes from the couple’s own 15-acre smallholding, transformed by Jon’s classical technique and contemporary vision into something magical.
Both garden and carefully sourced local produce is precisely cooked and beautifully presented, with a finesse that never sacrifices on big, bold flavours. On a recent visit, Gloucestershire’s Stinking Bishop cheese was celebrated in a delicate tart where a crémeux made from the cheese was burnished with a pear gel, all decorated with Alyssum flowers & spiral chives. This was a clever dessert (yep, it was a sweet course) that made total sense, since the cheese is washed in a Perry made from the namesake Stinking Bishop pear during the maturing process.
The dining room feels special without trying too hard – Helen’s warm presence and sommelier Matthew’s thoughtful wine pairings create the sense that you’re in the hands of people who genuinely care about your evening. Choose between four, six or eight courses (£85-£175), book well ahead, and settle in for something memorable.
They’re only open Wednesday to Saturday (Wednesday and Thursday are dinner only), and tables are becoming increasingly precious since that star arrived, so plan a few months ahead if you’re keen to cap off your evening with the signature Tequila Slammer sorbet.
Ideal for masterful French-influenced cuisine from a Cheltenham institution…
There’s something wonderfully reassuring about David and Helen Everitt-Matthias’s Suffolk Road restaurant. For nearly four decades, they’ve been doing their thing – David has famously never missed a service – and their thing happens to be some of the finest classical cooking in the country.
The menu reads like modern French cuisine and tastes like pure joy: pigeon might come with black pudding and chocolate ganache, monkfish with barley broth and cockles, but whatever lands there, everything on the plate is precise and (cue Masterchef judge pontificating) there for a reason.
Dessert offerings are equally well-judged, the bramble and wood sorrel ‘cannelloni’ balancing the earthy tartness of sorrel with delicate bramble flavours, all given luxury via a refreshing buttermilk sorbet. Visually, it’s all very Prince, in the best possible way, of course.
For a place of this prestige, the wine list feels refreshingly honest – yes, there are trophy bottles for those who want them, but you can drink well for around £30 here. Go for lunch (two courses £43) if you’re watching the budget, or splash out on the full four-course evening menu at £105. Whatever you do, save room for ‘the selection of cheeses’ – a description which doesn’t do the whole thing justice. It’s the finest cheeseboard you’ll see this side of the channel. Or, at least, this side of Chez Bruce…
Open for lunch and dinner Wednesday through Saturday, though you’ll want to book ahead – after three decades, they’re still one of the toughest tables to land in town, even if Michelin, in 2019, demoted the restaurant from two stars to one. It remains one of the weirdest decisions the Big Red Book has made.
Ideal for a refined take on Indian dining that transcends curry house clichés…
Sometimes a restaurant comes along that makes you rethink everything you thought you knew about a cuisine. That’s Prithvi (‘Mother Earth’ in Sanskrit)…
Set up by cousins and restaurateurs Jay Rahman and Taj Uddin, since 2012 the restaurant has been quietly showing that Indian fine dining needn’t feature dots of mango chutney presented artfully in ellipsis, or an arrangement of lamb cutlets that looks more like a cairn than dinner. Instead, at Privtvi you’ll find familiar but punchy Indian flavours plated in surprising, minimalist ways. But most of all, you’ll find objective, undeniable deliciousness.
The elegant first-floor lounge sets the tone – this is a place that takes itself seriously but not stuffily. Chef Thomas Law’s seven-course tasting menu (£95) might feature tortellini filled with spiced ox cheek floating in burnt shallot consommé, or chalk stream trout bobbing about in a curry beurre blanc and a dainty little quenelle of avruga caviar.
It works because Law has a handle on both classical European technique and Indian spicing. This isn’t fusion for fusion’s sake, make no mistake; it’s a thought-provoking interpretation of a cuisine that doesn’t lose sight of flavour.
Dinner bookings are essential – this is one of Cheltenham’s – if not the South West’s – hottest tables.
Ideal for modern British dining with skyline views…
Cheltenham finally has a rooftop restaurant worth climbing stairs for. The Nook on Five combines panoramic views over Imperial Gardens with cooking that’s confident enough to compete with the vista. Sure, you can come for brunch – their smashed avocado on sourdough is exemplary (and also pretty steep at £13, it has to be said) – but evening is when this place really shines.
The dry-aged T-bone to share (£130) has its own loyal fan club, and the Loch Duart salmon with seafood risotto shows they can do delicate just as well as dramatic. The Nooks Bubble Martini has ruined many a productive Monday morning and induced a fair amount of vertigo all the way up here.
They’re open from lunch until late (and from 9am weekends) – though you’ll want to book ahead for those coveted terrace tables.
Ideal for Sri Lankan street food turned Gloucestershire success story…
What started in 2016 as five Sri Lankan friends converting an old pub in St Paul’s now stands as the original outpost of a nine-strong (and ever-expanding) restaurant group. While they’ve expanded across the South West and into Birmingham, this Cheltenham site remains the mothership – a place where the exposed brick walls still tell the story of late nights spent renovating after day jobs, and where the signature ‘penny bar’ made from old crates and coins first took shape.
The space feels pleasingly incongruous in this residential corner of Cheltenham – step through the door of this grey-painted former pub and you’re transported from terraced houses to an urban hangout where bass-heavy tunes and warm Sri Lankan hospitality fill the room. Tables suspended by chains and low lighting create the kind of atmosphere that makes you want to settle in for the evening, which probably explains why weekend bookings here are like gold dust, even after almost a decade on St Pauls Road.
The menu is essentially a country-spanning roll call of Sri Lankan street food greatest hits. The egg hopper exemplifies their approach – that bowl-shaped fermented rice flour pancake arrives with a perfectly cooked egg at its base, ready to be loaded with the house coconut sambol. The Cheesy Colombo – think sweet-and-sour paneer with properly crispy edges and a sauce that demands to be mopped up with roti – remains the dish that regulars order first and talk about longest.
More substantial dishes shine equally bright. The chicken curry on the bone delivers the kind of lingering heat that has you reaching for water and more curry in either hand, while the black pork, slow-cooked in a sauce dark as night with multiple spices, is a brooding number that hits the spot despite being quite bloody salty, it does have to be said. Vegetarians are particularly well-served – the Fat Sister pumpkin curry shows how something so simple can be transformed into something sublime.
The ‘Cocotails’ list is a key feature, with a menu of illustrations, overzealous descriptions and the kind of encouragement that will have you slurring through a third if you’re not just a little restrained. The Drunken Sri Lankan, which blends coconut-flower-sap whisky with turmeric and lime, and is topped with ginger beer, is dangerously moreish.
Open seven days a week for lunch and dinner, with an Express Lunch menu that has you sorted in 30 minutes if you need it to. While they do take walk-ins, this original branch fills up fast – booking ahead isn’t just recommended, it’s practically mandatory for weekend evenings. There’s something special about eating here, knowing this is where it all began, where five friends took a chance on sharing their food with Cheltenham and ended up creating something that resonated far beyond this quiet corner of Gloucestershire.
Ideal for contemporary Japanese dining under cherry blossoms…
What started in a tiny basement has blossomed into something spectacular. KIBOU now holds court in Cheltenham’s Regent Arcade, where artificial cherry trees create a canopy over diners and anime projections dance across the walls.
The food needs to stand up to this faux-dramatic setting, and there are some fine touches on display on the KIBOU menu. The Volcano Roll isn’t just clever marketing – it arrives at your table looking ready to erupt, while the A5 wagyu nigiri (clocking in at just shy of £30) offers a moment of pure indulgence – all buttery, beefy notes that will have you resenting your chewy old supermarket topside forever more.
Save room for their miso ice cream. Made in-house, the salty/sweet interplay is harmonious and delicious, which isn’t an easy feat when deploying miso in desserts. Served in a golden choux pastry and finished with a drizzle of warm miso butter sauce, it’s pure indulgence.
The sake flight options here make for an educational evening, though the rare Japanese whiskies might mean you forget the lesson. Try to snag a spot in the traditional horigotatsu sunken dining area – there’s something especially satisfying about removing your shoes and settling in for the night. Liberating, even…
Open daily from noon until late, making it perfect for everything from quick lunch stops to leisurely evening feasts.
Ideal for sustainable seafood in intimate surroundings…
Gareth Fulford’s cooking at Purslane makes you wonder why more inland restaurants don’t focus on seafood. His connections with small Cornish day boats mean the fish on your plate was likely swimming yesterday, and his Cotswold Life Food & Drink Awards ‘Chef of the Year’ title from 2018 suggests he knows exactly what to do with it.
The bi-monthly changing menu (three courses for £69) from this independent might feature cured Cornish pollock that tastes of pure ocean, or halibut so perfectly cooked it makes you think you’re eating by the coast.
The menu, which champions Cotswolds produce with equal devotion, is naturally seasonal. This autumn featured dishes of Loch Duart salmon with handmade beetroot cavatelli, Severn & Wye smoked eel, horseradish, and bilberry. Or, red gurnard paired with Delicia pumpkin, suckling pig belly, russet apples and rainbow kale. Gorgeous stuff, indeed, the former so well balanced that even the presence of sputum on the plate was forgiveable.
The wine list is as carefully considered as the fish is fresh – these people understand that great seafood needs great wine, and don’t get pretentious about it, with plenty of drops available by the large glass under the £10 threshold.
They’re only open Thursday to Saturday for lunch and dinner, and booking ahead is essential – this intimate spot has earned its reputation as one of the UK’s top seafood restaurants.
Ideal for sophisticated South Indian flavours in sumptuous surroundings…
There’s something instantly transporting about stepping into Bhoomi Kitchen’s elegantly appointed dining room. The dark walls adorned with carefully curated artwork, velvet chairs trimmed in gold, and soft lighting create an atmosphere that feels both sophisticated and welcoming – much like the food that emerges from the kitchen.
Run by the third generation of a family who settled in Cheltenham from India half a century ago, Bhoomi manages that rare feat of honouring tradition while executing it with finesse. The menu leans heavily into South Indian territory – think delicate dosas filled with spiced potato and fresh coconut chutney, or Kerala lamb leg enriched with cardamom and curry leaves. But there’s also space for northern classics from the tandoor, with their barbecued prawns winning particular praise from regulars.
The masala dosa here deserves special mention – crater-pocked and golden, it arrives spanning the width of your table like an edible piece of architecture. Their baby aubergines in ground coconut curry might make you forget every other curry you’ve eaten this year. And speaking of forgetting – don’t you dare leave without trying their chocolate samosa, an inspired riff on the beloved street food snack that somehow makes perfect sense.
Open daily (lunches Wednesday to Sunday, dinner every evening), though you’ll want to book ahead for weekend services when the dining room fills with a mix of loyal regulars and appreciative locals. This is refined Indian dining that respects its roots while delivering them with contemporary polish.
Ideal for casual fine dining that doesn’t forget to be fun…
Tucked away in Montpellier Courtyard, this recent winner of the ‘Best Restaurant 2024’ at the Gloucestershire Foodie Awards (and recipient of a cracking Jay Rayner review) strikes that perfect balance between serious cooking and laid-back charm. Their black pudding scotch eggs with Burford Browns have developed something of a (rightful) cult following, while the Shetland mussels in cider broth show a lighter touch. The wine list ranges from Tuesday night bottles to serious weekend splurges, and their cocktails deserve far more attention than they get.
Like all the best restaurants, it feels special enough for celebrations but casual enough for a Wednesday – though you’ll need to plan those celebrations around their schedule, as they’re closed Mondays and Tuesdays. Open Wednesday to Saturday for lunch and dinner, plus Sunday lunch, with weekend bookings strongly advised.
Moving house sits somewhere between root canal treatment and doing your tax returns on the list of life’s most enjoyable activities. One day you’re living in a perfectly normal home, the next you’re surrounded by towers of boxes and wondering how you accumulated enough stuff to fill a small department store.
There’s always that moment of standing in the middle of your house, looking at everything you own, and thinking “Maybe I could just leave it all behind and start fresh?” But unless you’re planning a dramatic lifestyle change involving nothing but a backpack and a one-way ticket to Bali, you’ll need to pack it all up somehow.
The good news? With a bit of planning and the right approach, packing doesn’t have to reduce you to sitting on the kitchen floor at midnight, surrounded by half-packed boxes and questioning every life decision that led to this moment. The trick is to tackle it room by room, maintaining some semblance of order in the chaos. Here’s how to pack up your entire house without losing your mind, your favourite mug, or your will to live.
Start In The Kitchen
The kitchen is always the trickiest room to pack, so it’s best to get it out of the way first. Start by sorting through your cupboards – those fancy kitchen gadgets seemed like a good idea at the time, but if that spiralizer has been gathering dust since 2019, it might be time to find it a new home.
When it comes to packing dishes, here’s a game-changing tip: pack plates vertically, like records in a box, rather than stacked flat. They’re much less likely to break this way because they can’t bear the weight of everything above them. If you’re worried about your best china or family heirlooms, it’s worth getting proper packing materials from a packing company. For everyday dishes, wrap each piece in newspaper and cushion with tea towels – they need packing anyway, so they might as well be useful.
The kitchen requires serious organisation. Start with things you rarely use, like the fancy serving platters and special occasion glasses. Be sure wrap anything fragile in bubble wrap. Pack heavy items like pots and pans in small boxes – a box full of cookware quickly becomes impossible to lift. Keep your everyday cooking items until last, and when you do pack them, put them in a clearly marked box.
Your first-night box should include: a kettle, mugs, teabags, coffee, sugar, a few plates, bowls, cutlery sets, a sharp knife, chopping board, washing up liquid, tea towel, kitchen roll, bin bags, and a corkscrew (trust us on this one). Add any essential cooking items if you’re planning to make meals right away – a frying pan and wooden spoon can be invaluable.
Tackling The Living Room
The living room is deceptive – it might look straightforward, but it’s amazing how much stuff accumulates in there. Start with books, but remember they get heavy quickly. Use small boxes and mix in lighter items like cushions or throws to balance the weight. Sort books as you go – there’s no point moving the ones you’ll never read again.
Electronics require methodical packing. Before unplugging anything, take detailed photos of how everything’s connected – both close-ups of the connections and wider shots of the overall setup. Label every cable (masking tape works well), and keep all components from one device together. Put screws and brackets in labelled sandwich bags and tape them to their corresponding items.
Pack your DVDs, games, and consoles next, but keep back some entertainment for the final days. Photos and artwork are last – they keep the place feeling homely while you’re packing. When you do pack frames, wrap them individually and pack them vertically, just like plates. Mark these boxes as fragile and store them upright.
Sorting The Bedroom
Bedrooms are all about smart wardrobe decisions. Start by sorting everything into categories: definitely keep, maybe, and donate. Try everything in the ‘maybe’ pile – if it doesn’t fit or you haven’t worn it in a year, it’s probably time to let it go.
For the clothes you’re keeping, pack according to season and necessity. Box up off-season items first, then occasional wear. Keep a week’s worth of everyday clothes accessible. Rolling clothes really does work better than folding for most items – they take up less space and crease less. The exception is structured items like suits and formal dresses, which need proper hanging.
Speaking of hanging clothes, here’s a brilliant hack: group them on hangers, slip a bin bag or old pillowcase over the top, and tie at the bottom. They’ll stay clean and crease-free, and you can transfer them straight to your new wardrobe. For delicate items like jewellery, thread necklaces through straws to prevent tangling, and use egg cartons for earrings and small items.
The Bathroom Clear-Out
Bathrooms might be smaller, but they deserve careful attention. Start by checking expiration dates on everything – makeup, skincare, medications, and toiletries all have shelf lives, and moving house is the perfect time to clear out expired items.
For items you’re keeping, group similar things together and pack them strategically. Double-bag anything liquid or cream-based – a shampoo explosion mid-move is no fun. Keep prescription medications with you rather than packing them. Pack a separate box with immediate essentials: toothbrushes, toothpaste, deodorant, shower gel, shampoo, conditioner, toilet roll, hand soap, and any daily skincare items or medications. Include a shower curtain and towels if you’ll want them right away.
The Dreaded Loft
The loft requires a ruthless approach. Start by bringing everything down and sorting into clear categories. Old paperwork can usually be scanned or shredded. Christmas decorations might need culling – check lights work before packing them for another year.
Create a clear inventory of what you’re keeping. Label boxes with detailed contents rather than vague descriptions like ‘miscellaneous’. Consider whether temperature-sensitive items like photos or electronics should be stored differently in your new home, and finally, organise seasonal items together so they’re easier to access when the right month rolls round.
The Home Office
Home offices often hide masses of paperwork. Sort documents into essential categories: must-keep legal documents, necessary paperwork, and disposable items. Scan important documents – having digital backups is invaluable. Shred anything with personal information rather than just binning it.
Pack your office supplies methodically. Keep one set of basics accessible for the move itself – you’ll need pens, scissors, and tape until the last minute. Back up your computer and pack peripherals carefully, taking photos of connections just like with entertainment systems.
Getting Through Moving Day With Your Emotions In Tact
Your essential documents box should include: passports, driving licences, house paperwork, insurance documents, and any medical information. Keep valuable items and sentimental pieces with you rather than on the moving van.
Your personal essentials box needs: phone chargers, extension leads, basic tools (screwdriver, pliers), first aid supplies, painkillers, snacks, water bottles, toilet paper, hand soap, towel, and change of clothes. Don’t forget the kettle, mugs, and tea bags – a cup of tea makes everything more manageable.
If you’re dealing with a larger property or inherited belongings alongside your own, estate cleanout services can take on the heavy lifting of sorting, removing, and disposing of items you don’t need, freeing you up to focus on packing what matters.
The Bottom Line
Moving house isn’t anyone’s favourite activity, but breaking it down room by room makes it manageable. Take it steady, be organised, and remember – every box you pack is one step closer to being settled in your new home. The key is to start early, stay systematic, and keep essential items accessible until the last possible moment. It’s also ok to have a miscellaneous box just labelled as stuff.
For a generation prone to procrastination, who put off packing for their holiday until they’re in the car on the way to the airport, the actual, physical prospect of moving house can be overwhelming. So much so, in fact, that a whopping 42% of those aged between 15 and 34 still live at home with their folks.
Of course, that’s a tenuous causal link and should be scrapped from the record.
In fact, recently the Independent reported that a “survey of around 3,000 people for Nationwide… indicated 38% across the UK were either in the process of moving or considering a move.”
That’s a lot of people upping sticks which we all know, can be a stressful, strained experience. Well, we’re here to help. Here are 7 ways to take the headache out of moving house.
Plan Your Utilities & Services in Advance
One of the most overlooked aspects of moving house is the transfer or setup of utilities and services. It’s easy to get caught up in the physical act of moving and forget about the essentials like electricity, gas, water, and internet. To avoid any disruptions, make a list of all the utilities and services you currently use and contact each provider well in advance of your move. Inform them of your moving date and new address to ensure a seamless transition.
Additionally, consider setting up your internet and TV services ahead of time. Many providers allow you to schedule an installation date, so you can have everything up and running as soon as you move in. This way, you won’t be left without essential services during the first few days in your new home.
Leave The Heavy Lifting To The Professionals
Leave The Heavy Lifting To The Professionals
‘I can manage this’, before the beloved family heirloom smashes into a thousand pieces on the floor.
Indeed, someone, somewhere right now is arguing with a loved one about moving house. With every packed, repacked and packed again box, with every dropped sentimental ornament and broken down rental van, with every temper flared over the right position for the ill fitting new sofa comes an even iller thought out divorce. And that’s a fact.
The moving and manoeuvring needed for upping sticks isn’t something you want to boldly carry on your shoulders alone. All that shifting and lifting will only leave you with a slipped disk or sore back for your troubles. Rather than enlisting the help of friends and family (which only passes the burden of risk, rather than negates it), it’s prudent to bring in services that specialise in house removals to help with the bigger and heavier items.
For smaller, simpler moves – students, solo movers, single furniture items – a man with a van service is a cost-effective option, typically running at around £30-50 per hour. For bigger moves, a full removal service with more resources and equipment is worth the investment.
Ideal Tip: Communicate your moving needs as clearly and as early on as you can to a prospective removal service. This way, your needs can be anticipated, or they can let you know if a given task isn’t feasible. Call ahead to discuss how fragile or difficult items like pianos or mirrors will be transported safely.
Address The Inventory Ahead Of Time
If you’re bidding farewell to a rented property, then it’s almost certain that your landlord will have an inventory that they’ll want to check; a dreaded part of the process, indeed.
It’s crucial that you get this sorted and out of the way well ahead of the time you actually move out. Finding that a cupboard door is damaged and needs replacing, or there’s a giant stain on the carpet which needs professional attention, will make for a huge amount of stress in the middle of a move.
Embrace The Opportunity To Streamline
Getting rid of the clutter and junk which has held pride of place for far too long can be a really valuable byproduct of moving house. As the old saying goes, ”with a tidy house comes a tidy mind’’, so embrace this chance to start afresh without that massive teddy bear you won for your ex-girlfriend at the fair or the box of vinyl you never, ever listen to.
Although the other side of the move might seem like a long way away, a little foresight goes a long way when you’re packing up. To get to the unpacking part and be met with random boxes in random rooms of varied shapes and sizes and no logical organisation, is to crush a spirit which has already been stretched and strained by the moving process.
This soul destroying part can be avoided by a fastidious, obsessive commitment to codifying and labelling when you’re packing up your life. At the very least, you’ll want to have boxes arranged by room, but if you’re going to get obsessive about it, by item. For instance, a box dedicated purely to the living room bookshelf is going to be much easier to unpack and reorganise than one containing a golf club, toothbrush, some crayons and a sieve.
Create A Moving Day Survival Kit
Moving day can be chaotic, and the last thing you want is to be rummaging through boxes to find essential items. To make the day go smoother, prepare a moving day survival kit. This should include all the necessities you’ll need for the first 24 hours in your new home.
Pack a bag with toiletries, a change of clothes, important documents, medications, and basic kitchen supplies like a kettle, mugs, tea, and snacks. Don’t forget to include tools like a box cutter, scissors, and a screwdriver for any immediate assembly or disassembly tasks. Having these items easily accessible will save you a lot of hassle and help you settle in more comfortably.
By planning your utilities and creating a moving day survival kit, you can significantly reduce the stress and chaos that often accompanies moving house. These small steps can make a big difference in ensuring a smooth transition to your new home.
Make A Pact With Your Pals
Everyone hates moving. Some simply accept it’s going to be arduous and approach it with a stiff upper lip. Others choose to ease the load and make things a bit more fun by entering into a moving house pact with their nearest and dearest. Sharing the load is the name of the game here, a ‘you scratch my back and I’ll scratch yours’ mentality, if you will.
Perhaps have the promise of something fun waiting for you all at the end of a gruelling day of lugging and loading. What could be better than opening a bottle of bubbly and exploring the takeaway options delivering to your new abode?
We’re pleased to report that, two years on, nothing much has changed. Fresh off the back of a trip to Città del Sole, and with a wallet untroubled but a waistline widened, it’s truly striking just how fresh, flavoursome and affordable the food is there.
It shouldn’t need saying but we’ll do so anyway for those at the back; Naples’s culinary scene isn’t only about pizza. Sure, it’s the home of the stuff and the city plays host to many, many of the best pizzerias on the planet, both traditional and groundbreaking, but there’s so much more to enjoy about Neapolitan cuisine, from deep-fried street food snacks all the way to intricate fine dining.
Yep, Naples has got it all, but in a city where every corner houses a woodfired oven or a display of cream-filled sweet treats, it can be hard to separate the good from the great. We’re here for only the greatest; here are the very best restaurants in Naples.
L’antica Pizzeria da Michele
Ideal for, quite simply, the best pizza in Naples…
Of course, of course, we’re still going to talk about pizza in our rundown of the best restaurants in Naples. Because this delicious, democratic dish – arguably the world’s favourite – is just so well represented in the city of its birth.
The best in Naples? For us, it’s also the most simple; the one served at L’antica Pizzeria da Michele. A pizzeria steeped in history, da Michele has been doing its thing in the heart of Forcella since 1870. For decades, Da Michele was famous for serving just two items: a Marinara and a Margherita. The menu has since expanded to four, adding a Cosacca (tomato, pecorino, basil) and a Marita (half Margherita, half Marinara), but the ethos remains the same – a handful of pizzas, executed with obsessive precision, and nothing else.
The two main old stalwarts are absurdly good – light, fresh and digestible, and irregular enough to be spilling off the sides of the plate when they hit the table. Both were just €6 when we visited last month.
This unassuming spot has garnered global fame, even featuring in the film Eat Pray Love. Despite its global recognition, L’antica Pizzeria da Michele remains a favourite with locals just as much as it’s become something of a box ticking exercise for tourists.
Though queues stretch down the street from its 10:30am opening until it closes 12 hours later, there’s a ticketing system that offers some hope against the crowds. Simply collect yours and pitch up at the much-maligned but massively convenient bar opposite, Caffetteria Brasilena Aperol Spritz, which has a decent view of the digital queue number sign. It ticks along reassuringly fast. You can even eat your pizza at the bar to circumnavigate the queue, if you wish.
50 Kalò, founded by the acclaimed pizzaiolo Ciro Salvo, has rapidly established itself as a cornerstone of Naples’ contemporary pizza scene, with Salvo one of the world’s most recognisable and acclaimed pizzaiolo.
Located in the bustling Mergellina district and overlooking an attractive roundabout, this pizzeria is celebrated for its scientific approach to dough-making, which has earned it a perennial place in the prestigious 50 Top Pizza list, consistently ranking among the best in Italy and the world.
The name 50 Kalò translates roughly to ‘good dough’ in Neapolitan slang, and Salvo, a third-generation pizza maker, is renowned for his meticulous attention to hydration levels in that dough, often reaching up to 70-80%. The result is an exceptionally light and airy crust. You’re going to hear the word ‘digestible’ a lot in this article, and the pizzas at 50 Kalò are most certainly that.
The menu at 50 Kalò features a blend of traditional and more innovative toppings, with a strong emphasis on high-quality, locally sourced ingredients. Signature pizzas include the Cosacca, which features a San Marzano tomato base and a liberal grating of Parmigiano Reggiano, a homage to an old Neapolitan recipe that’s been having something of a resurgence in recent years, and the Salsicce e Patate, a white pizza topped with piquant fennel sausage and small cubes of potato. Only a couple of pizzas here top €10.
If a flight to Naples feels a little excessive just to get your hands on a €7 pizza, then you’ll be pleased to hear that since 2018 there has been a London branch of 50 Kalò. We’ve even included it on our list of the best pizzas in London for 2026. Do check it out sometime.
Founded by Gino Sorbillo (a pizzaiolo with serious pedigree – more on that later) in honour of his Aunt Esterina, Antica Pizza Fritta da Zia Esterina Sorbillo specialises in the art of pizza fritta, producing deep fried pizzas in the heart of Naples’s historic centre that aren’t in the least bit oily.
The Ripieno is the headliner, make no mistake, an indulgent affair filled with ricotta, smoked provola cheese, cicoli (pork crackling), and tomato sauce, encapsulating the essence of traditional Neapolitan flavours. Be warned; you’ll want to let this one sit for a few minutes prior to tucking in, as the middle is like lava when straight from the fryer.
With huge queues and just a couple of high top tables outfront on the street, this one should be tackled in a grab and go fashion. No matter; there are plenty of walls to sit on nearby.
*Please note that Da Fernanda, probably Naples’s most cherished pizza fritta purveyor and a regular of celebrity jaunts food around the city, sadly closed in 2023 due to the death of Nonna Fernanda. Our thoughts remain with her family*.
1947 Pizza Fritta Napoli
Ideal for taking your time over your pizza fritta…
With our buccal mucosa scalded and stripped of its lining, it might feel like folly to go seeking out a second fried pizza. But we simply can’t resist (which is kind of what got us in this mess in the first place), so we’re heading to 1947 Pizza Fritta Napoli next.
Just around the corner from L’antica Pizzeria da Michele in Forcella, this restaurant, named after the year it was founded, has perfected the art of the ol’ pizza fritta, with a dough that’s expertly fried to achieve a crispy exterior while maintaining a soft, airy interior. It ends up tasting a little sweet – doughnut-like, even – but once this gives way to the gorgeous fillings, it all makes sense, that sweetness a wonderful contrast to the smoked provola cheese, speck and Pienello tomato that makes up our favourite order, the Sophia.
The good thing about 1947 Pizza Fritta when compared to our old friend Sorbillo from a few paragraphs previous is that there’s plenty of seating available here, both indoors and out. When you consider just how well pizza fritta goes with a cold glass of Peroni, it only feels right to order a few of both and take your time.
Ideal for exemplary versions of Neapolitan classics in a convivial dining room…
We’ve typed ‘pizza’ so many times already that our ‘z’ key is starting to stick, so we’re heading into the tangle alleyways that make up Spaccanapoli next for something a little different.
Just off the main thoroughfare, you’ll find La Locanda Gesù Vecchio, an absolute gem of a trattoria that serves up hearty, generous Neapolitan dishes without frippery or fanfare.
The dining experience is both simple and informal, with closely set tables that invite a convivial atmosphere. The ziti with Genovese ragu is an obvious highlight, and seemed to be ordered by just about every table when we visited, as is the aubergine parmigiana, which was just so much lighter than just about any version we’ve had in the UK.
Hopefully, that might help you save room for dessert – these guys do the sweet stuff very well. The pastiera, a traditional Neapolitan dessert made with a sweet shortcrust pastry filled with ricotta and accented with orange blossom water, is very good indeed.
The fact that the restaurant has just two sittings an evening, with all guests sitting down at the same time at either 7pm or 9:30pm, creates a lively, sociable atmosphere. The eminently drinkable house wine for €20 and skilfully made Negroni for €7 certainly helps things along. Watch for the theatrical way they collect bottles of wine for the tables.
The restaurant’s success has even led to the opening of another venue on the same street. That hasn’t made it any easier to snag a reservation, though recently La Locanda Gesù Vecchio has started taking reservations over email. There’s a dedicated gluten free menu, too – a source of pride for the restaurant.
Ideal for Naples’s best ‘old school’ seafood experience…
Naples isn’t all about red sauces and starchy anchors. Being a coastal town and a major port, there’s also some fine seafood to be found in the city. Da Dora, to our mind, is the premier seafood restaurant in Naples, a wonderfully old school place – all nautical decor and photos of famous guests on the wall – that’s simply impossible to resist.
The standout dish here is without doubt the linguine alla Dora. Generously stacked with lobster, mussels, and fat prawns with their head juices still intact, all bound together with just a whisper of fresh tomato sauce, it’s a showstopper, and just so so good.
There’s the local classic spaghetti alle vongole too, the briny clams pert and sweet, as well as crisp, salty fritto misto featuring, pleasingly, whole anchovies, and a selection of crudo, the kitchen showing their confidence in the freshly landed produce.
A bottle of tight, fruity Biancolella white wine from across the way in Ischia is all you need to see this spanking seafood selection on its way. Oh, and a bib. You’ll definitely need a bib here…
Forgive us for returning to pizza so soon, but this is Naples after all, and the pizza is so digestible that it’s quite possible to have several in a single day. We certainly have…
La Notizia, helmed by the renowned pizzaiolo Enzo Coccia, is one of the most influential pizzerias in the world, and more than worthy of a spot on our list of the best 22 restaurants in Naples.
Coccia, a third-generation pizza maker and one the pioneers of the concept of ‘slow pizza’ which emphasises the importance of long fermentation times for the dough, has transformed his pizzeria into a culinary pilgrimage of sorts for aspiring pizzaiolo, earning it the distinction of being the first pizzeria in the world to be in the Michelin Guide all the way back in 2010.
He has even written a seminal book, The Neapolitan Pizza, a Scientific Guide on Artisanal Pizza-Making, and teaches at the Pizza University on his days off. What a guy.
Located on Via Michelangelo da Caravaggio, La Notizia is split into two venues on the same stretch: La Notizia 53 and La Notizia 94, each offering a slightly different menu but maintaining the same sky-high standards, of pliable, light-as-you-like dough and organic, locally-sourced toppings.
The pizzeria is also known for its rigorous selection of ingredients, all sourced from local producers and Slow Food Presidia, ensuring the highest quality and sustainability. Pizzas here straddle the innovative with the ancient, with the Mastunicola, an ancient recipe with lard, pecorino cheese and basil, a highlight. The Cetara, topped with anchovies from the Amalfi Coast, yellow tomatoes, and oregano, is another perfectly poised pizza from a true master of his craft. No wonder he’s affectionately nicknamed ‘The Maestro’.
Ideal for quite comfortably the best pizza on Via Della Pizza…
From the same team behind the acclaimed and always popular pizza fritta joint from a few paragraphs previous, Sorbillo is another of Naples’s most revered pizzerias. Located on Via dei Tribunali, it’s a cornerstone of Naples’ pizza scene, with a history dating back to 1935.
Founded by Luigi Sorbillo, the pizzeria is now helmed by his grandson, Gino Sorbillo, who has become a culinary icon (and something of a divisive figure) in his own right. Gino’s approach respects tradition while pushing boundaries, such as his use of organic flour, a meticulous 30-hour dough fermentation process, and, more recently, his introduction of a pineapple pizza to his menu.
The eponymous Sorbillo sits on the city’s so-called Via Della Pizza, a strip with several superb pizzerias. But Sorbillo is on another level altogether. This one gets busy, so be prepared to share a table or counter with other guests.
Actually one of three outposts in the city (with one in Pozzuoli and one in Bagnoli), the Santa Lucia branch is our favourite, with a modern, airy feel to the dining room and plenty of terrace seating for those warmer Naples days.
Chef Vitagliano is a rising star in the pizza world, with his pizzas distinguished by their light, airy crusts, achieved through a meticulous 36-hour fermentation process and the use of a blend of high-quality flours. Toppings can be as prosaic and traditional as you like, or can veer off into the contemporary and even experimental, if you so wish. For a taste of the latter, try the Marinara Sbagliata (the incorrect marinara), which features a San Marzano DOP marmalade and wild garlic pesto. It’s a joy. There’s even a pizza tasting menu, if you’re feeling particularly hungry.
That said, and perhaps surprisingly for a place that’s been recognised for serving the world’s best pizza, the take on traditional Neapolitan snacks are perhaps the best thing here, with the deep fried pasta balls oozing with whipped ricotta and mortadella. So, so good.
Pair with a glass of sparkling red wine (as suggested by the team here), and relax into a pizzeria experience that straddles the traditional and the contemporary with real skill.
In the historic Materdei district, Starita a Materdei is a legendary pizzeria with roots dating back to 1901. Founded by Alfonso Starita, this family-run establishment has been passed down through generations, with Peppe Starita currently at the helm.
The Montanara Starita, a lightly fried pizza that’s topped (rather than filled) with tomato sauce, provola cheese and basil, is the signature here, and a feat of some engineering – light but crisp, and not oily at all. It’s superb.
The absolute classics are excellent, too. We can’t resist their Diavola, which is – a rare thing with this type of pizza – nicely spicy but not absurdly salty. Pizza Express, take note!
Images via @pizzeriastarita
The warm, rustic interior, dressed up with vintage photographs and memorabilia, hammers home the pizzeria’s rich history. End with fried dough sticks (angioletti) dressed in a gorgeous pistachio cream or nutella for the full Startia experience.
Ideal for a classy, precise pasta tasting menu experience…
Piazza Municipio is a large public square sitting in the heart of Naples, known for its proximity to the historic Castel Nuovo and the city’s main port. Right opposite the castle, you’ll find one of Naples’s more contemporary pasta places; Di Martino Seafront Pasta Bar.
Opened by the Di Martino family, renowned pasta producers from nearby Gragnano, the restaurant seamlessly blends a pasta shop, take-away service, and a full dining establishment, all with a contemporary flair not exactly ubiquitous in a city still largely in thrall to old-school dining and tradition.
Pull up a pew at the horseshoe counter and watch the show commence, as skilled chefs perform endless mantecatura with the deftest wrist flicks. It’s all going into some seriously silky pasta.
The pick of the bunch on a recent visit was those appropriately shaped seashells tofette, which caught the sauce of broad beans and tuna bacon just beautifully. Equally good, and arriving in a neat little Jenga-style stack to remind you that this is a fancier operation than Nonna’s down the road in Quartieri Spagnoli, is the ziti with Genovese ragu. Glossy with added bone marrow, it’s an absolute treat.
Enjoy both on the a la carte menu for a premium price of €28 and €24 respectively, or as part of the restaurant’s pasta-based tasting menu (has there ever been a more enticing phrase?), which is a lavish nine-course affair priced at €100. Add a wine pairing option (much recommended – it was excellent) for an additional €40.
With operating hours from Tuesday to Sunday and views of the shimmering water and castle from the bright and airy dining room, it’s the ideal spot for a laid back but sophisticated lunch or dinner. Do note that it’s closed on Mondays.
Ideal for contemporary Neapolitan dining in artistic surrounds…
Sitting pretty (honestly, really bloody pretty) on one of Naples’s defining thoroughfares Via Toledo is the city’s history Banco di Napoli building, which now houses the Gallerie d’Italia museum. And inside that gallery is the fittingly easy-on-the-eye Luminist Café Bistrot.
Allow yourself to be enticed inside by the glass pasticceria display, which houses rows of intricately adorned pastries and cakes. Or, settle in for lunch proper (the restaurant closes at 7pm, but this is very much a lunch place in vibe and feel) and enjoy regional Campanian specialties and a few international twists for good measure.
The spaghetti with bottarga and lemon-spiked pangrattato is superb here, but you can go off-piste, too, with a hamburger, paella or even ceviche. Or, you could stick to the classics, as we did, and have yet another ziti alla Genovese. It’s just too good to ignore.
Luminist maintains a 30% minimum of natural wine on its wine list, amplifying its dedication to seasonal and organic fare. An air-conditioned, wheelchair-accessible environment ensures comfort for all guests. On a properly humid day in Naples, it’s such a welcome respite in here.
Ideal for celebrity spotting and old school fine dining…
A favourite of Diego Maradona during his time in Naples in the 1980s, Mimi alla Ferrovia has been frequented by celebrities and Neapolitan high society from the moment it first opened its doors back in 1944.
Though the tablecloths are starched white, the ceiling frescoed and the clientele celebrity, the vibe inside is refreshingly laid back. As is the food, with traditional Neapolitan and Campanian dishes served as they should be; generously proportioned and singing of their star ingredients. The ravioli of seabass – expertly made, naturally – arrives under several plump, still-pink prawns, whilst baby octopus is served with fresh tomatoes, olives and capers.
It’s refined but generous, and the service matches that sentiment, perfectly balancing attentiveness with privacy when required. In a city where the hospitality can occasionally be a touch brusque, Mimi alla Ferrovia stands out as something of a special occasion kind of place for its elegant pace. The fact Robert de Niro or even Alain Ducasse might be on the adjacent table certainly does no harm.
Ideal for Naples’s best Michelin-starred experience…
Speaking of special occasion sort of places, Palazzo Petrucci is the only once Michelin-starred restaurant we’ve featured on our list of the best places to eat in Naples, owing to its breathtaking views of the Bay of Naples and its sophisticated seafood menu that offers a different take on the food of this most cherished part of Italy.
Designed by revered local architect Alfredo Galdi, the restaurant offers a modern, minimalist setting that perfectly complements chef Lino Scarallo’s intricate tasting menus. Notable dishes include a rare blue lobster stuffed with caponata and buffalo mozzarella paired with Sicilian red prawns. That said, the candele with Genovese reduction, snapper tartare, provola fondue and lemon zest is a dish that will be remembered for some time still.
Prices for the tasting menu here start at €100, though we’d highly recommend forking out on the six course seafood menu featuring raw fish for €150, which offers the most comprehensive introduction to Scarallo’s cuisine. It’s a superb, sophisticated dining evening, and our favourite fine dining experience in Naples.
The pizzeria that operates under the Palazzo Petrucci umbrella, back in the city centre, is also excellent.
Crudore, on the edge of the attractive Villa Comunale, places an emphasis on raw fish which sets it apart in Naples’s culinary landscape.
Even if the name passes you by (a pun which means ‘king of the raw’), you’ll feel the freshness of the offering as you walk through the dining room to your table, with a huge display of sea bream, langoustines and more over ice assuring you that the catch is glistening. Of course, there are walls made up of fish tanks, reiterating that point.
That fish is served with real panache, delicately assembled and sliced just right, with Japanese influences peppered throughout. If they’ve got sea urchin on display, order it; we’ve had two superb preparations of the stuff on previous visits to CrudoRe’. That said, for those squeamish about raw fish, there’s still plenty to enjoy, including excellent clam ravioli and seafood risotto, the latter brought to life with fresh stracciatella.
The cellar is stacked, too, with 450 labels of champagne and 550 of wine. Sure, it’s all a bit (well, a lot) bling and brash, but when the food is this good, we’re not complaining.
Ideal for a gold standard version of Naples’s favourite sweet treat…
Neapolitans are just as crazy about their sweet stuff as they are seafood and pizza, and arguably the headlining sweet treat in the city (rum baba might have something to say about that) is the iconic pastry sfogliatelle, a a crispy, layered pastry filled with sweet ricotta cheese and candied citrus peel. God, it’s good.
La Sfogliatella Mary, in the bustling Galleria Umberto I, is known citywide for its mastery of the iconic Neapolitan pastry. Established in 1979, this small yet renowned pastry shop has become a pilgrimage site for pastry enthusiasts. The sfogliatelle, available in both ‘riccia’ (curly) and ‘frolla’ (smooth) varieties, is crafted with meticulous attention to detail.
The riccia version features a crisp, multi-layered shell filled with a fragrant mixture of ricotta, semolina, candied citrus, and a hint of cinnamon, while the frolla offers a tender, shortcrust pastry alternative. We’re very much here for the former variety, which, to our mind, is the best in the city.
La Sfogliatella Mary also excels in other traditional pastries of the region, such as baba and pastiera, but it is the sfogliatella that truly steals the show. Hence the name.
Ideal for artisanal gelato in both traditional and inventive flavours…
We’re on a roll (and a sugar high) in terms of sweet treats now, so we’re heading to Casa Infante, a cherished name in Naples synonymous with artisanal gelato and traditional Neapolitan pastries.
Founded in 1940, this family-run gelateria and pastry shop has built a reputation for its commitment to quality and innovation. Casa Infante’s gelato, made from the finest Campanian ingredients, offers a wide array of flavours, from classic pistachio and stracciatella to inventive combinations like ricotta and pear.
With multiple locations across Naples, Casa Infante always seems to pop up when you most need it. As in, when you’re hot, sticky and in need of a refreshing, cooling pick-me-up.
Speaking of pick-me-ups, the espresso here is excellent, too. And since you’re here, why not pick up a jar of baba soaked in rum to take home? It makes the ideal souvenir!
Another pit stop for a Neapolitan sugar hit, we’re heading to Pasticceria Poppella next. Nestled in the Rione Sanità district, it’s renowned as a historic pastry shop renowned for its innovative and traditional confections. Established in 1920, Poppella has become a household name, particularly famous for its signature creation, the ‘Fiocco di Neve’ (Snowflake).
This delicate pastry, a soft brioche filled with a light, creamy ricotta and milk mixture, has garnered a cult following for its combination of indulgence and cloud-like texture that disappears in a couple of bites. We are very much one of that following, as, it seems, is most of Naples. You can expect to queue here, so order several to take away.
Ideal for cones of freshly fried fried small fish…
Sweet stuff for starters and fish for dessert? Feels a funny way round, granted, but you don’t have to follow this rundown of the IDEAL 22 places to eat in Naples in order, of course. Neither do you have to eat at all of these places in a single day. That would be mental…
Anyway, just beyond the tightly knotted, always shaded streets of Centro Storico, in a part of town that feels like you’re coming up for air and bursting into the light, is Montesanto and its Pignasecca Market. Lively as hell and full of debate, bartering and the odd quarrel, there’s an irresistible energy to proceedings here, and nowhere is this better exemplified than Pescheria Azzurra, a seafood lover’s paradise that has been serving the community since 1950.
This family-run fish market and eatery is renowned for its fresh seafood, sourced daily from the nearby Tyrrhenian Sea and displayed on ice in the open air, with Neapolitans dropping by in a constant stream to inspect the catch.
What sets Pescheria Azzurra apart is its ‘from catch-to-table’ experience, where diners can select their seafood directly from the market and have it cooked on-site. The signature here is the frittura di paranza, a mixed fry of small fish, but you’ll get the classic Campanian pasta dishes too. There are tables, sure, and a predictably chaotic queue for them, but it’s just as nice to order a cone of fried fish, a beer or two, and just pitch up against the wall opposite to take in the show.
No trip to Naples (or roundup of the best restaurants in Naples) would be complete without a meal at Trattoria Da Nennella. Or, more precisely, no trip to Naples would be complete without being gently ribbed by the staff at this infamous trattoria.
Because that’s all part of the fun at Trattoria Da Nennella, a place where the hearty, roughly hewn renditions of Neapolitan homestyle dishes play second fiddle to the spectacle of service (where a waiter might suddenly be playing an actual fiddle, let’s be honest).
In the business since 1949, there’s plate throwing, insult chucking and chanting galore here, a theatrical experience that pairs surprisingly well with the pasta e patate and salsiccia e friarielli. The trattoria’s rustic yet somehow flashy decor, with its chequered tablecloths and vintage photos (what else?), adds to the fabric of the place, and the slightly fabricated vibe, it has to be said.
Idealfor legendary Neapolitan homecooking in the corner of a covered market…
Shimmy through the throbbing activity of Mergellina’s covered market, perhaps vaulting over a couple of crates of fresh fruit and veg in the process. Make for the far corner of the arcade and the crowds of hungry diners, all seeking a plate or two of home-cooked food from one of Naples’s most iconic kitchens.
There is no printed menu here, no waiters. Instead, what’s cooked is what’s fresh and seasonal from the market. Simply make your order at the counter (you’ll pay here once you’re finished, too) and keep one roving eye on any of the three or four tables. Be ready to pounce when a free one emerges.
Though it might not be on when you visit, we’ve enjoyed the finest spaghetti alla puttanesca of our life here; a properly briny, spicy version which had been cooked low and slow in good quality olive oil until almost confited. We’ve heard great things about the kitchen’s pasta e fagioli, too.
Cibi Cotti Nonna Anna first opened its doors in 1963 as a humble take-away kitchen. It wasn’t until the 1980s that the restaurant expanded to include tables. Now, it does both takeaway and sit-down. Though Nonna Anna Pappalardo sadly passed away in 2017, her children keep the name alive and the place is as bustling as ever. So bustling, in fact, that we wouldn’t recommend coming here between 1pm and 2pm, when office workers come in their droves – the ultimate compliment on the quality of the food, we think!
Cibi Cotti Nonna Anna is only open between midday and 3:30pm, and is closed on Sundays.
We end in the Vomero district, at Braceria Pastore. We’ve gorged on all our sweet treats during the day, as is the Neapolitan tradition, so we’re ending our tour of the best food in Naples instead with a steak. This is a city that doesn’t play by the rules, after all.
This family-owned braceria (simply meaning ‘steakhouse’) has built a reputation for serving some of the finest cuts of meat in the city, sourced from local farms and expertly prepared over an open flame. The menu features a variety of meats, including the headlining steaks, lamb chops, and the signature salsiccia napoletana (Neapolitan sausage), all blistered and burnished on the grill until smoky. Honestly, after an orgy of pastry, pasta and pizza, a big ol’ hunk of meat is just the ticket.
Don’t expect the usual steakhouse staging of wooden beams and exposed brick walls; the vibe here is more simple, with a few cream leather banquettes and stark overhead lighting. Not to worry; it only serves to illuminate the perfect bark and blushing centre on that steak. You know what? We might just stay here a while and admire this thing…
There’s a saying in Italy: “Non si mangia per vivere ma si vive per mangiare” – we don’t eat to live, we live to eat. And in the Eternal City, this philosophy rings truer than anywhere else, for it’s often said (in my stupid head anyway), that the Romano de Roma has an emulsion of Pecorino and pasta water running through their veins.
From centuries-old trattorias serving up perfect plates of carbonara to innovative fine dining joints pushing culinary envelopes all over the negozio, Rome’s food scene is a surprisingly satisfying balance of tradition and gentle innovation.
Indeed, Rome’s culinary landscape isn’t just about trippa alla romana and cacio e pepe (though both are certainly worth crossing continents for). The city plays host to everything from traditional Roman-Jewish cuisine to contemporary seafood restaurants, with its own take on pizza and deep fried street food rubbing shoulders and sharing lanes with some of the most affordable Michelin-starred experiences in Europe.
Yes, Rome has it all, but in a city where every cobblestone seems to hide either a cosy trattoria or a smart contemporary bistrot, it can be hard to separate the tourist traps from the treasures. We’re here to help you find only the greatest; here are the very best restaurants in Rome.
Armando al Pantheon, Pigna (Historic Centre)
Ideal for pinpoint renditions of Rome’s most cherished classics…
It could be argued that Rome’s Pigna district – the part of the historic centre that contains the Pantheon – is one of the city’s worst places to dine. Full of subpar gelato and couldn’t-care-less trattorias, finding a faithfully rendered rendition of Rome’s famous four pasta dishes in this part of town is surprisingly difficult.
All that changes if you’ve landed yourself a table at Armando al Pantheon. Just steps from the ancient dome, Armando al Pantheon is one of Rome’s proudest flagbearers of the city’s true culinary heritage. The Gargioli family’s dedication to Roman cuisine spans over sixty years, evident in the textbook versions of Roman classics that bless every plate that leaves their kitchen.
It’s Armando’s commitment to seasonal Roman ingredients and techniques that have largely vanished elsewhere that raises the restaurant above the rest. Their panino coratella, a sandwich filled with tender lamb offal, represents the kind of authentic Roman dish that’s increasingly hard to find. It certainly doesn’t harm that it’s bloody delicious.
Look, too, for puntarelle (Catalonian chicory) with anchovy sauce and carciofi alla romana (simmered artichokes) in the cooler months. When it warms up, delicate stuffed zucchini flowers take centre stage. It almost goes without saying that the carbonara, amatriciana et al are pinpoint versions.
Save room for the tiramisu, which is, quite simply, not even the same dish from your fridge cold Saino’s version. Their wine list improves yearly, featuring small producers from across Italy, with house wines offering exceptional value at modest prices. The house red (a smooth, fruity Rossé Ribelà) is keenly priced at just 28 euros. What’s not to love?
Armando al Pantheon is closed on Sundays, and is open for both lunch and dinner Monday to Friday, and just for lunch on Saturdays.
Another fine restaurant a gladiator’s gallop away from a famous Roman monument (this time, the Colosseum and Forum double-header), is Alle Carette.
In a city where pizza can be hit-or-miss, especially in tourist-heavy areas, Alle Carrette stands out as a neighborhood gem that’s maintained its integrity and quality for decades. Housed in a space that feels authentically Roman with its copper-colored walls and bare-brick arches, this bustling pizzeria serves up some of the finest thin-crust pies in the Eternal City.
The pizzas here epitomise the traditional Roman style – a satisfyingly thin and crispy affair with perfectly charred edges and plenty of structural integrity. While the classic fennel sausage number never disappoints (especially with the buffalo mozzarella upgrade), you should really try their namesake La Carrette, featuring a salty but harmonious combination of guanciale, taleggio, and tomato. When in Rome, and all that…
Whatever you do, don’t skip the fritti – their zucchini flowers stuffed with mozzarella and anchovies are legendary, and the fried baby artichokes (carciofini), served simply with a quarter of lemon, are among the best in Rome. Quite the claim in a city full of the stuff, we know, but one we’re happy to vouch for…
Despite its location in the trendy Monti neighborhood, prices at Alle Carrette remain remarkably reasonable, making it a favourite among both locals and savvy tourists who are either in-the-know or have just happened to chance upon the place.
The atmosphere strikes that perfect Roman balance – lively enough for a group dinner but still intimate enough for a casual date. In the warmer months, the small outdoor seating area offers prime people-watching opportunities. Book ahead for dinner, though the efficient service means walk-in waits are rarely too long.
Keep in mind this is a proper sit-down pizzeria – no by the slice vibes here. Even more excuse to get stuck in, we think!
Alle Carrette is open for both lunch and dinner, 7 days a week.
In a city where street food has ancient roots, Supplizio elevates the humble suppli – Rome’s beloved fried rice ball – into an art form. Acclaimed chef Arcangelo Dandini’s charming spot near Campo de’ Fiori feels more like a cozy living room than a takeaway joint, with its terracotta floors, exposed brick walls, and comfortable leather sofas inviting you to linger over your crispy treats (though not too long – a queue’s forming!).
The menu revolves around creative interpretations of the classic suppli, each handcrafted with premium ingredients including long-aged Carnaroli rice and organic vegetables, and all priced at €3. While the traditional ragu and mozzarella version is executed perfectly, those keen to ground themselves even further in the Eternal City’s food traditions should of course try the cacio e pepe or carbonara versions. Don’t miss their other fritti – the smoked potato croquettes and anchovy meatballs with Dandini’s house-made garum (a nod to ancient Roman cuisine) are standouts.
Honestly, it’s all excellent. Everything is cooked to order, ensuring each golden-breaded morsel arrives at the perfect temperature for that iconic string of melted mozzarella (what Romans call the ‘telephone line’) when pulled apart. Order yourself a Peroni or two before moving on – it’s an almost obligatory accompaniment.
Since 1860, Piperno has been serving refined Roman-Jewish cuisine from its palazzo dining room. The service, complete with bow-tied waiters, makes you feel like minor nobility. Start with the impossibly light fried starters – the filetti di baccalà (fried salt cod) and potato croquettes are mandatory. The seafood risotto and fontina-enriched gnocchi show there’s more to Roman-Jewish cuisine than just frying. Save room for their legendary zabaione.
Ideal for Rome’s most authentic food market experience…
In a city of great markets, Testaccio’s stands out for its pitch-perfect blend of tradition and modernity. Housed in a modern structure since 2012, this bustling market manages to honour its 19th-century roots while embracing contemporary Roman food culture. With over 100 stalls spread across 5’000 square metres, it’s both a neighborhood essential and a food lover’s paradise.
While the market excels at fresh produce, meats, and seafood, it’s the prepared food stalls that make it a dining destination. Don’t miss Mordi e Vai (Box 15), where former butcher Sergio Esposito crafts transcendent tripe sandwiches from traditional Roman recipes – their tripe panino, which houses intestines simmered in a savoury, tomato-based broth, is legendary. Grab a ticket; you won’t have to wait long for your number to be called.
Opposite Mordi e Vai, Casa Manco (Box 22) serves exceptional pizza al taglio using whole wheat flour. The stracciatella, courgette flower and anchovy number is intense and immense. No wonder Food and Wine recently declared Casa Manco “the world’s best pizza”. Arguably, Manco’s porchetta sandwiccia is even better.
Across the way, Le Mani in Pasta (Box 58) offers fresh handmade pasta you can watch being made. For wine lovers, Da Corrado (Box 18) pairs natural wines with some of Rome’s finest meatballs. It’s all here, and it’s all absurdly satisfying.
Visit in the morning (it’s open Monday through Saturday, from 7am to 2:30pm) when the market is at its liveliest – though expect a rush of local students around lunchtime. The modern facility even incorporates visible Roman ruins beneath glass floors, though this archaeological area is only accessible on Tuesdays with reservations. While tourists are welcome, this remains very much a working neighborhood market where quality and value still reign supreme.
Ideal for power lunches of Rome’s finest cacio e pepe…
The recent refurbishment of this Testaccio institution proves that updating tradition doesn’t mean selling your soul. Rather than infuriating locals and killing the inherent vibe of the place, the renaissance of this historic spot (first opened in 1936) has once again made Da Felice one of Rome’s buzziest trattorias, a decade after rumours of its decline began circulating. It’s got a slicker, more modern feel now, sure, yet the food remains steadfastly Roman.
Their tonnarelli cacio e pepe is still widely considered Rome’s best – they finish it tableside with a dramatic flourish, tossing the pasta enthusiastically with salad servers until properly luscious and creamy. We’d travel to this corner of Testaccio just for a bowl of the stuff – in fact, it’s a great choice for a power lunch, with speedy, efficient service meaning you’re in and out in less than an hour if you want to be. Not before you’ve ordered the signature tiramisu, though, which is served in tall glasses with a cheeky surprise of chocolate ganache lurking at the bottom.
Book well in advance and expect to see everyone from local politicians to food TikTokers in the exposed-brick dining room.
Ideal for Rome’s, and therefore the world’s, finest amatriciana…
On Via del Viminale, a stone’s throw from Termini, La Matriciana (the historic spelling reflects the restaurant’s 1870 origins) strikes that perfect balance between informal, paper-tablecloth charm and gently refined Roman cooking. It’s a match made in heaven; this historic establishment has been perfecting its craft for over 150 years, and it shows in every dish that leaves the kitchen. It’s a Roman institution, make no mistake.
The restaurant’s namesake pasta all’amatriciana is, naturally, the star of the show – a tangle of perfectly al dente bucatini in a rich sauce of crisp hand-cut guanciale and slow simmered San Marzano tomatoes. A comically large, serve-yourself silver gravy boat of pecorino is placed on your table with some ceremony, sealing the deal. It’s absurdly good – the best bowl of pasta we’ve had anywhere in the city. Or, perhaps, the world…
Don’t take those words too close to heart and enter with a myopic vision for the ama’, mind. It would be wrong to overlook the other Roman classics here, like their excellent saltimbocca alla romana or the seasonal artichokes, prepared either ‘alla romana’ (braised with herbs) or ‘alla giudia’ (crispy fried in the Jewish style). You could order both, you know, The wine list, featuring around 600 labels, is a cut above the usual trattoria standard.
Reservations are recommended for dinner (you can usually snag a table on the same day, if you’re willing to eat post 10pm), though less essential for lunch. Tables spill onto the pavement in summer, offering prime people-watching opportunities in this elegant corner of Rome.
Prices are a little above what you’d normally pay (the headlining dish is €18) but entirely reasonable given both the location and the quality – this is how Roman cuisine should be. Word of warning: there’s another restaurant of a similar name – La Matriciana ai Consoli – down in Don Bosco. It could well be delicious, but it’s not what you’re looking for.
Please be aware that La Matriciana is closed on Saturdays.
L’Osteria della Trippa, Trastevere *temporarily closed*
Ideal for the city’s signature offal, done perfectly…
The food of Rome is rooted in the so-called quinto quarto (the fifth quarter), which celebrates the ‘less noble’ parts remaining from the animal slaughter. One of the best places to sample this side of the cuisine is at L’Osteria della Trippa, across the river in hip Trastevere.
Despite its name suggesting a singular focus on tripe, this modern osteria offers much more than only Rome’s famous offal dishes (though those are indeed exceptional). Open since 2019, here chef Alessandra Ruggeri has created a menu that pays homage to Roman traditions while adding contemporary flourishes that feel natural rather than forced.
The house specialty trippa alla romana is indeed unmissable – strips of tripe braised until tender in a rich tomato sauce with pecorino and mint – as is the fried tripe (there’s a recipe on their website, by the way!) but don’t overlook other seasonal standouts like the fava bean puree with a knot of braised wild chicory, which is just gorgeous, or the veal sweetbreads served over aubergines, which were a special delivered only verbally.
The wine list is particularly strong on natural and biodynamic options from small Italian producers, with plenty of exciting options by the glass for around the €5 euro mark. It came as no surprise to anyone familiar with Ruggeri’s generous cooking and hospitality that Michelin awarded L’Osteria della Trippa a Bib Gourmand within a year of its opening.
Please note that L’Osteria della Trippa is temporarily closed for renovation.
Such is the ever burgeoning reputation of chef Sarah Cicolini, that she really could be cooking anywhere. The fact she chose this modest space in Rome’s southeastern residential Appio-Latino quarter to serve her elevated trattoria fare speaks volumes about her desire first and foremost for flavour over frippery.
Her carbonara at Santo Palato has a cult following, sure, but the real draws are dishes like the delicate trippa alla romana and wagyu heart tartare that show off her refined fine-dining tekkers while respecting Roman traditions. No wonder Stanley Tucci was in awe of the place when he visited for his Searching For Italy series recently. To finish, the maritozzo with grano arso flour is unmissable.
Ideal for a superb value set menu of Roman classics near the Pantheon…
If you’re only in Rome for a whistle-stop tour and you’re keen to try as much of the cucina romana as you can possibly fit in, then Hosteria Grappolo d’Oro is a no brainer.
Moments from Campo de’ Fiori, this is that rare find – a centrally-located restaurant that maintains high standards despite the tourist crowds. The exposed wooden beams and warm service create the perfect setting for textbook versions of Roman classics. Their five-course Roman tasting menu is a steal at €34, and the wine list features excellent bottles from Lazio and beyond at fair markups.
That menu starts with a refined trio of traditional antipasti, presented tastefully but tasting robust and fully flavoured (the puck of panzanella is particularly good). Then, it’s onto pasta, and here you’ve a choice of the holy Roman trinity (sorry alla gricia, you don’t make the cut). Go for tonnarelli cacio e pepe, which is a particularly decadent rendition, heavy on the pecorino emulsion and even heavier on the black pepper. Just as it should be.
The procession continues with oven roasted lamb or cod in tomato sauce and ends, of course, with a a perfectly proportioned tiramisu – it’s the real deal. What a fantastic, ridiculously cheap meal, right in the heart of Rome. With tables able to be reserved as late as 11pm, it’s perfect for a late night bite, too.
Open every day for lunch dinner, except Wednesdays, when it’s only open for dinner service.
Ideal for outdoor dining and people watching in Trastevere…
This tiny Trastevere spot draws crowds for good reason – the Roman classics are done faithfully, and the vibe is always just the ride side of raucous.
Enzo’s outdoor tables on the adjacent cobblestone street are prime real estate, especially during summer evenings. While you wait for one (and you will wait), they’ll serve you beer from plastic glasses and, if you’re lucky, a few snacks.
Once seated, it’s the usual (we say that with enthusiasm, rather than a sense of weariness) fritti, puntarelle, artichokes, pastas and sweet treats. From the latter section of the menu, their Nutella-dotted tiramisu has a cult following. Such a following, in fact, that on any given night of the week it’s sensible to pitch up at least an hour before opening time (6:30pm), to get a place in the queue to nab yourself a table for that first round of service. If not, you’ll be watching a whole round of diners eat before you (in every sense of the word), which can be a little demoralising.
Ideal for modern Italian fine dining and the puffiest of pizza…
In a city devoted to tradition, Allegrío dares to be different. Chef Daniele Creti’s contemporary takes on Italian classics have earned both critical acclaim and a devoted following among Rome’s culinary cognoscenti (as well as a little criticism from the purists, it should be said). The restaurant’s opulent and enjoyably camp design – all massive sun sculptures, every shade of gold and plenty of crushed velvet – provides a fitting backdrop for plates that are as visually striking as they are delicious.
In a city so devoted to tradition, Allegrío brings a welcome splash of contemporary flair to Via Veneto. Opened in 2023 and ranked in Italy’s Top 50 pizzerias a year later, this 150-seat restaurant delivers drama in spades.
The space is divided into four distinct dining rooms, each with its own personality: Joyful (tropical warmth), Lucky (gold and red velvet), In Love (adorned with 500 Capodimonte porcelain roses), and Intrepid (wild, exotic colors). It’s opulent and enjoyably theatrical in a very Roman sort of way, setting the stage for a dining experience far removed from the trattorias and osterias further south into town.
While the restaurant offers refined Italian cuisine in the form of a handful of tasting menus (the full Dolce Vita experience is priced at €95 for eight courses with four wines), it’s Allegrio’s pizza program that’s earned the most accolades. Helmed by Peppe Aiello and Ivano Veccia, the Neapolitan-style pizzas deliver perfectly balanced, extravagantly puffed crusts giving way to a pillowy interior. The Diavola, featuring a blend of seven different peppers, house nduja and shocking pink ricotta, shows their mastery of simple flavours with just a touch of the playful.
On the restaurant side, Executive Chef Daniele Creti offers seasonal menus that respect tradition while embracing innovation. Their signature ‘La Carbonara My Way’ (€45 for two), prepared tableside and finished with 24k gold, epitomises the restaurant’s balance of classic technique and contemporary showmanship. The wine list, curated by sommelier Davide Gelormini, is appropriately extensive for a restaurant of this confidence and calibre.
Open daily for lunch and dinner, until 12:30am, and an hour later on Friday and Saturday nights.
Ideal for impressing your date with the finest ingredients in town…
More than a restaurant, SalumeriaRoscioli is a temple to exceptional ingredients. The counter heaves with pristine cheeses and salumi, while the cellar holds nearly 3,000 wines.
Yes, everyone orders the carbonara and cacio e pepe (can’t keep saying ‘when in Rome’, can we?), and they’re undeniably excellent. But the real move here is to start with their burrata, all splayed out and topped with clusters of semi-dried, intensely flavoured tomatoes, then shift on to a little premium charcuterie and something from their daily seafood selection. The pesce bianco del giorno (fish of the day served with pine nut cream and seasonal greens) is always a winner.
Avoid the basement tables if possible – things get a little dingy down there. Instead, book well ahead and be specific about wanting a ground floor or counter seat. It’s where the action is.
And just recently, Salumeria Roscioli topped the 50 Top Italy 2026 rankings as the Best Trattoria in Italy, leaping from fourth to first – four generations of Roscioli family graft paying off in style.
Ideal for offal lovers and natural wine enthusiasts…
We came here on a recommendation from Osip’s Merlin Labron-Johnson, and we’re so glad we did. Trattoria Trecca has quietly become one of Rome’s best spots for offal since opening just four years ago in this out of the way spot down in Ostiense, a few minutes from the San Paolo metro stop.
It’s a handsome room to sink into. Natural light pours in through the huge windows that make up Trecca’s facade, reflecting off the brown and white chessboard tiles and marble topped dining tables that set the scene. Both are easily wipeable, and this is a place you want to roll your sleeves up and get messy in. Their regaje di pollo e patate (chicken giblets with potatoes) makes the ol’ quinto quarto accessible even to skeptics – it’s tender, aromatic with herbs, and served sizzling in a skillet alongside impossibly crisp potatoes.
While their Roman pasta classics are solid, you’re here for the offal and their always-excellent daily specials. If it’s on the menu, order the pajata (suckling veal intestines) skewers, which arrive blistered and burnished from the grill in a pool of good quality olive oil. They’re superb.
The wine list focuses on natural producers but isn’t dogmatic about it – just funky, drinkable drops that just seem to pair so perfectly with this kind of food.
Interestingly, the Trecastelli brothers have since expanded, opening Fratelli Trecca – a pizza al taglio spot near Circo Massimo
Ideal for serious wine at fair prices and fritti that will wow you…
Take tram 8 from Centro Storico’s Via Argentina to its final stop right in the heart of suburban Gianicolense for some of Rome’s finest fritti (fried starters), precisely cooked pasta and other trattoria standards, all done to a commendably high standard at Cesare al Casaletto. Their polpette di bollito (meat croquettes in basil sauce) should open every meal here, ideally alongside impossibly light fried fish which is served in a cone that spills out all over the plate.
Follow it with a bowl of gnocchi fritti con cacio e pepe (fried gnocchi with pecorino and black pepper sauce), which may sound like overkill but tastes like genius, and is a welcome, very minor diversion from the classic spaghetti or rigatoni. The wine list is agreeably unique for a trattoria, with small producers and reasonable markups. Book ahead for their shaded patio in summer.
The team behind Casaletto have branched out in recent years, opening Cesare al Pellegrino near Campo de’ Fiori and Laboratorio, a wine bar and shop, close to the original.
Ideal for Rome’s most innovative pizza, date nights, design lovers
The minute you walk into Seu Pizza Illuminati, you know this isn’t your typical Roman pizzeria. Perhaps you already guessed that from the name, quite frankly…
The Copenhagen-meets-Trastevere design sets the stage for Pier Daniele Seu’s boundary-pushing pizzas, which are regularly named some of the best in Italy by the tastemakers in recent years.
Keeping both purists and pioneers happy, the menu smartly divides between old school classics and Seu’s more inventive creations, with the pizzas straddling Roman and Neapolitan pizza traditions (with a little New Haven thrown in for good measure) to arrive at a pizza that’s uniquely Seu; crisp and fluffy, generous but refined.
If you’re feeling adventurous, try the octopus and cherry pizza which inexplicably works, and finish with a strawberry and rhubarb ‘dessert pizza’ which, erm, inexplicably also works.
As if that wasn’t risky enough, a six course tasting menu is also available for €45. Dishes are of the chef’s choosing.
Obviously not that risky; Seu has also expanded internationally with outposts in Dubai and Ibiza, plus TAC, a thin-crust spinoff in Mostacciano.
Ideal for the city’s finest Roman-Jewish cuisine and a historic atmosphere…
In the heart of Rome’s Jewish Ghetto, Nonna Betta serves some of the most straightforward, downright delicious versions of Roman ‘cucina kosher’ classics that you’ll find in the city.
Their carciofi alla giudia (Jewish-style artichokes) are consistently perfect – crispy, meaty, and never greasy. The beef-stuffed agnolotti shows how Roman-Jewish cuisine extends beyond just fried snacks into something all the more wholesome. The dining room, with its vintage photos, huge murals and wrought-iron details, adds to the experience without feeling touristy. There are plenty of intimate nooks and crannies to get lost in on those more blustery Rome days, but if the sun’s out, Nonna Betta has plenty of outdoor seating in the connecting square.
Nonna Betta is open for lunch and dinner every day.
Inside Rome Cavalieri, a Waldorf Astoria Hotel, Rome’s only three-Michelin-starred restaurant earns its reputation through precision rather than pretension. Chef Heinz Beck’s German exactitude meets Roman ingredients in dishes that wow – properly wow – without showing off. After over three decades of cooking here, the food still feels fresh and alive – a remarkable achievement, quite frankly.
The dining room has recently had a refurb, and is now rendered in striking mauves and coppers. The wine cellar is legendary – let sommelier Marco Reitano guide you through it. Yes, it’s expensive (the 10 course tasting menu is priced at €350), but the level of cooking, service, and the stunning view over Rome from the terrace justifies the splurge for a special occasion.
Beck’s standing was further cemented in November 2025 when he received the Michelin Mentor Chef Award at the 2026 Guide ceremony – recognition of his influence on a generation of Italian fine dining.
Located in affluent Parioli and serving squeaky fresh, pristine seafood, Capo Boi could be stuffy but isn’t. Instead, dining here feels like being at a sophisticated friend’s dinner party – just one who happens to have access to Rome’s best seafood, and chooses to show it off in a big, icy display at the entrance. Hey, this friend sounds like an absolute blast!
Anyway, the crisp Sardinian flatbread pane carasau topped with baby octopus and shavings of bottarga sets the tone for the meal – a heady, oceanic bite that’s both light and eminently satisfying. Follow it with a whole turbot to share, which arrives blistered from the grill, still on the bone and ready for picking over. The restaurant’s starched white tablecloths don’t stand a chance.
Come with a group to justify ordering the impressive crudo platter, the sharing braised whole octopus, and multiple pasta courses – the paccheri with grouper and asparagus is particularly good.
Ideal for quinto quarto classics in the heart of Testaccio…
Don’t let the pared back dining room at Piatto Romano fool you – this Testaccio spot close to the Tiber serves some of Rome’s most carefully prepared classics. Their seafood dishes shine unexpectedly bright for an inland trattoria – try the stir fried lamb’s lungs and heart, served with sweet onions, for a taste of a long forgotten Roman classic. Warming to a theme, the horse meat coppiette (essentially jerky), which pairs so well with a cold Peroni.
The Thursday gnocchi and Friday fish specials follow Roman tradition, but it’s their pajata (milk-fed veal intestines, here served with rigatoni) that draws the crowds every day of the week (except Sundays, when the place is closed). Come hungry – portions are generous, even by the city’s usual hearty standards.
We’ve eaten a lot of trattoria classics by now, which is great, but sometimes a little innovation and experimentation is needed in a city so wedded to tradition. Enter Retrobottega…
This moody spot serves boundary-pushing dishes that still respect Roman ingredients. Chefs Giuseppe Lo Iudice and Alessandro Miocchi often forage for ingredients in the surrounding Lazio countryside themselves, and that dedication to provenance shows on the plate in dishes like broccoli tortellini with wild marjoram, and slow braised beef cheeks with barbecue carrots and hazelnut.
Though both of those dishes are available on the a la carte to be enjoyed at the large, central communal table, the €75 tasting menu is the way to go here – it features off-menu classics and plenty of extra innovation, all served at an intimate six-seat counter. Recent dishes included a katsu sando of escarole, caciocchiato cheese and umeboshi, and a sunflower and yellow courgette risotto.
The natural wine list is exceptional, focused on small producers and with plenty available of drops by the glass for as little as €6. Book well ahead – the intimate space fills up quickly.
We end, naturally, with something sweet. Not technically a restaurant, we know, but in a city swimming in gelaterias, Otaleg (that’s ‘gelato’ spelled backwards, in case you hadn’t noticed) stands head and shoulders above the competition. Located between Piazza San Cosimato and Piazza San Calisto in Trastevere, this artisanal gelato shop showcases the extraordinary talent of Marco Radicioni, an alumnus of Rome’s gelato maestro Claudio Torcè.
The shop’s name mirrors its inverted design concept – the gelato laboratory takes centre stage in the front, rather than being hidden away in the back. Here, you can watch Radicioni work his magic with a stunning vertical Cattabriga machine, turning premium ingredients like Valrhona chocolate and Madagascar-Bourbon vanilla beans into some of the city’s most compelling frozen treats.
The pistachio is, quite simply, transcendent – rich, nutty, and impossibly smooth. Pair it with their fior di latte, which comes with an inspired grapefruit marmalade twist. The seasonal fruit flavors change regularly, making repeat visits essential, while more adventurous options like gorgonzola showcase Radicioni’s creative flair.
Though the Trastevere outpost is smaller than the original Portuense location, every scoop is made fresh on site, maintaining the exceptional quality that’s made Otaleg a destination for serious gelato aficionados. Take your cone for a stroll through Trastevere’s cobbled streets – it’s the perfect way to end a meal after eating in one of the neighborhood’s trattorias.
Mothering Sunday falls on 15 March this year, which, still two weeks away, leaves enough time to do something more considered than a last-minute bouquet and a card from the petrol station. The default options are fine. Flowers, chocolates, a nice candle. Nobody is going to complain.
But there is a version of this where she opens something and genuinely does not know what it is yet, where the gift has a bit of a story behind it, and where it feels like it could only have come from someone who actually thought about what she would want rather than what was easiest to order on a Tuesday night.
These five ideas span a wide range, from just £30 to over a grand, but what connects them is not the price tag. Each one results in something with a story attached, something she will keep, use, or remember long after the day itself.
A Bespoke Fragrance Session At Floris
Floris has been making perfume at 89 Jermyn Street since 1730. Nine generations of the same family have worked out of the same St James’s shop, and you can book a session in the private perfumery behind the shop floor where Edward Bodenham and his team compose fragrances surrounded by nearly three centuries of archived history.
Their single Fragrance Customisation experience costs £750 and lasts two hours. You sit with a Floris perfumer, work through their archive of foundation fragrances over a glass of champagne or Fortnum & Mason tea, and gradually build a scent blended to her tastes. She walks out with a 100ml bottle, hand-labelled and signed by the perfumer. The formula gets archived in the Floris ledgers, meaning she can reorder it for life.
For two people, the Together experience costs £1,250 and runs for three hours, producing two distinct fragrances. Both make for the kind of afternoon in St James’s that turns Mothering’s Day into an occasion rather than an obligation.
A Pottery Class That Produces Something Worth Keeping
The trick with experience gifts is making sure they leave behind something more than a photo on her phone. A well-chosen ceramics class does both: a few hours away from the everyday, and a bowl or mug she will actually reach for at breakfast.
SkandiHus, founded by Danish ceramicist Stine Dulong, runs taster sessions from studios in Walthamstow and de Beauvoir. Dulong left a corporate law career to make pottery full-time, and her Scandinavian-influenced pieces have ended up in the kitchens of Nigella Lawson and Yotam Ottolenghi. A 2.5-hour hand-building taster costs £45, and she leaves with a piece that gets fired and glazed. Wheel-throwing sessions run at £90. SkandiHus also runs more unusual workshops combining clay with sound baths and cacao ceremonies, if she is the type.
Elsewhere, Turning Earth in Hoxton, Highgate and Leyton operates on an open-access membership model and runs classes at all levels. The Kiln Rooms has studios across London offering one-off tasters from around £60. Outside the capital, Clayability near Bristol runs intimate five-person courses with professional potter Bill Moore in a converted farm studio.
A DIY Book Nook Kit By Anavrin
For mothers who read, or who have strong feelings about how a bookshelf should look, Anavrin’s DIY book nooks are a left-field option that lands well. These are detailed miniature dioramas, roughly the width of a hardback, designed to slot between books on a shelf. Each one recreates a real-world street scene with laser-cut wooden pieces, LED lighting, and an absurd level of architectural detail.
The Kyoto Gion kit builds out a dawn scene along the Hokan-ji walkway, complete with paper lanterns, cherry blossoms, and a miniature pagoda that glows when you switch on the LEDs. The Omoide Yokocho set recreates the narrow izakaya alleys of Shinjuku’s Memory Lane, down to stacked beer crates and tiny vending machines. We love Bangkok’s Chinatown one too.
Assembly takes around five to seven hours, so it is a Sunday afternoon project rather than a five-minute unwrap. No painting required; everything comes pre-coloured and numbered.
Kits start from around £33 on Amazon UK, with more complex builds like the Lijiang Ancient Town or Kowloon Walled City 2049 running up to £80. They ship from multiple fulfilment centres including Europe, so delivery before 15 March should not be a problem.
A Custom Vinyl Record of Songs That Mean Something
A playlist is thoughtful. A playlist pressed onto vinyl, with custom sleeve artwork, is something else entirely. Several UK companies now offer single-run lathe-cut records where you choose the tracklist, design the cover, and receive a one-off 12-inch or 7-inch that exists nowhere else in the world.
Cutsy, based in Hackney, has been doing this since 2016 and specialises in one-offs and small runs. Records start from £39.99 with free UK shipping, and lathe-cut orders ship within 12 working days. They hold a Limited Manufacturing Licence, so they can legally produce records with most commercial music provided you supply the tracks from a legitimate source. You could put together the songs from her wedding, the track she played on every family road trip, the album that got her through a hard year. One Cut Vinyl is another well-reviewed UK option with a roughly three-week turnaround on standard orders.
The sound quality on lathe-cut records will not match a factory pressing, but that is not really the point. The point is that she has a physical object that holds a story, and it sits on a shelf rather than disappearing into a streaming queue.
A Hand-Illustrated Map of Somewhere That Matters
Commissioned gifts carry a different weight because they cannot be replicated. A hand-illustrated map of a place that means something to her, whether that is the village she grew up in, the city where she met your dad, or the stretch of coastline where the family always holidays, turns geography into something personal.
Coostie Illustration, run by illustrator Ali, offers personalised hand-drawn maps starting from £60 for an A4 print with five illustrated landmarks. You provide the route, the places, and the landmarks you want featured, and she draws them in a detailed pen-and-ink style. More complex full-colour watercolour commissions start from around £250. Maps Illustrated, based in Greater London, has been producing bespoke cartography for over 20 years and produced illustrated maps for the 2011 Royal Wedding programme, so the pedigree is there.
Lead times matter here. Most illustrators ask for at least a month for bespoke work, so if you are reading this close to 15 March, a gift voucher for the commission might be the smarter move. Coostie sells these directly through her site.
The Bottom Line
The common thread here is not price or category. It is specificity. A scent blended to her preferences and archived under her name. A bowl she shaped herself on a Saturday morning. A miniature street scene she assembled over a pot of tea. A vinyl record that holds the soundtrack to your family. A map drawn around the places that made her who she is.
With its magnificent cathedral, Roman ruins, and cobbled streets, St Albans is one of the UK’s most easy-on-the-eye cities. This ancient settlement, Britain’s first Christian martyr’s final resting place (bit of a complicated claim, that one) is quite rightly popular with tourists, both local and international.
In terms of a food scene, that regular influx of visitors can go one of two ways; either, a city full of tourist traps and chains. Or, a place of genuinely unique, largely independent places to eat. Fortunately, in the case of St Albans, the latter is true.
The city’s restaurant landscape has flourished in recent years, driven by passionate restaurateurs who’ve recognised that St Albans diners demand more than mediocrity. From innovative pizza makers in village outposts to AA Rosette-winning chefs crafting seasonal menus that cherish local ingredients, the cathedral city now offers remarkable dining experiences that draw food lovers from across the Home Counties.
Whether you’re seeking a post-shopping bite near the bustling market or a celebration dinner worthy of the city’s historic grandeur, St Albans delivers. Here are the best restaurants in St Albans, Hertfordshire.
Dylans at The Kings Arms
Ideal for gastropub dining with serious beer credentials…
Sean Hughes and his family have transformed this beautiful 15th-century Tudor building into one of St Albans’ most acclaimed establishments. Dylans now holds 2 AA Rosettes and a place in the Good Food Guide’s UK Top 100 Pubs, adding to its earlier wins including Best Front of House Team at the Top 50 Gastropubs awards in 2022.
The arrival of a dedicated pastry chef has broadened the kitchen’s ambitions, while the pub’s commitment to craft beer runs as deep as ever – they were among St Albans’ first establishments to champion independent breweries, building relationships that allow them to regularly feature limited-edition beers, with daily updates posted on Untappd for the seriously beer-obsessed.
But the real star here is the food, and the txuleta prime rib, in particular. It’s the restaurant’s signature dish for a reason, arriving finished with rich brown butter gravy and those essential beef fat triple-cooked chips. It’s become something of a local legend, and rightly so – the beef is well aged, the cooking spot-on, and the presentation unfussy yet impressive in its confidence. At £105 for two people to share, it’s not cheap, but when that hefty chop hits the table, the fat yellow and melting, the steak blushing, the gravy glossy, you won’t resent the price. Oh, and the accompanying beef fat chips aren’t half bad, either.
Head chef Josh Searle’s menu extends well beyond that famous rib, with seasonal British dishes that demonstrate genuine skill. They are especially good at seafood here with hand-dived scallops from Orkney often starring on the menu.
The restaurant operates with two distinct areas: a snacking menu available in the front bar, with perfectly pulled pints and all, and a full à la carte service in the back dining room. This flexibility makes Dylans equally suitable for a quick Guinness and bite or a full evening out.
The building itself, with its low ceilings and original Tudor features, creates that genuinely historic atmosphere you can’t fake. Tables are at a premium, particularly on weekends, so booking ahead is wise. The acoustics can get lively when the place is full, but that’s part of the charm – this is a pub that feels genuinely lived-in. And anyway, it can be quite nice to lean into your dining companion from time to time, don’t you think?
Ideal for sustainable dining with views of the cathedral…
Situated next to St Albans Cathedral with lovely views over the Vintry Garden, Lussmanns represents everything admirable about modern British dining. Their commitment to sustainability runs deeper than most – 95% of ingredients are British-grown or produced, all fish carries Marine Stewardship Council approval, and their beef and mutton is organic.
The restaurant occupies three floors of a modern building, creating different moods depending on your preference. The ground floor bustles with energy, the upper floors offer more intimacy, and there’s a private dining area for special occasions. Large windows throughout ensure the cathedral views are maximised, particularly magical during evening service when the ancient stones are illuminated.
Chef Nick McGeown’s menu changes regularly to reflect seasonal availability, but certain dishes have become signatures. The organic mutton kofta with brioche bun and cucumber mint raita showcases British lamb in an unexpected preparation, whilst the fish dishes – perhaps Cornish monkfish with samphire and brown shrimp – demonstrate why their MSC certification matters in terms of quality as well as ethics.
The wider Lussmanns group faced a turbulent end to 2025, entering pre-pack administration and closing its Berkhamsted and Highgate restaurants amid rising costs and difficult trading conditions. The St Albans branch, however, remains firmly open and profitable, with founder Andrei Lussmann confirming a renewed focus on the group’s five remaining sites. If anything, the streamlining has concentrated the energy here, and the Spring 2026 menu – featuring dishes like confit organic Haye Farm lamb shoulder and MSC grilled red bream with smoked aubergine – continues to showcase the seasonal, sustainable cooking that earned Lussmanns its reputation.
The beer selection showcases four local Hertfordshire brewers: Farrs Brew, Mad Squirrel, Zealous, and Three Brewers. These aren’t token gestures towards localism – each beer is carefully chosen to complement the food, and the Mad Squirrel pilsner pairs brilliantly with their fish dishes. Yes, they love their beer in St Albans.
Lussmanns also embraces St Albans’ jazz heritage with live performances every Wednesday evening. The combination of excellent food, sustainable practices, and live music creates an atmosphere that feels uniquely St Albans – sophisticated but never stuffy, with genuine care for both community and environment.
Wednesday evening jazz sessions require advance booking, as the intimate setting fills quickly with both locals and visitors drawn by the music as much as the food.
Ideal for discovering why pizza enthusiasts travel from across the country…
James Woodley and Grace Surman’s tiny pizzeria in Chiswell Green has achieved something remarkable: national recognition for a restaurant that barely seats ten people inside. Their New Haven-style pizzas, with their distinctive thin, crispy, and charred crusts, have attracted attention from London food writers and even earned them a spot on Gozney’s international ‘How to Pizza’ YouTube series alongside celebrated pizzaiolos from Brooklyn and Los Angeles.
The operation could hardly be more humble – five small tables inside, a few more outside, and a secondhand pizza oven that Woodley has mastered over years of patient practice. But the pizza that emerges from that oven justifies every bit of hype. The base achieves that perfect New Haven combination of crispy bottom and chewy edges, with the kind of char that speaks to serious high-heat cooking.
Woodley’s background includes time at some of London’s most respected kitchens, including the Camberwell Arms and Brunswick House, and that experience shows in the attention to detail. The dough uses a blend of high-protein bread flour and locally milled flour from Redbournbury Mill, fermented in two stages for optimal flavour development. The tomatoes are the best Italian varieties, milled fresh and topped with herbs post-bake.
Their collaboration approach has become part of Gracey’s story. Recent partnerships with The Boot Cantina (just a couple of paragraphs away) produced a Mexican-inspired special pizza that had St Albans food lovers queuing for tables. It’s this willingness to experiment and collaborate that keeps the menu interesting despite its deliberately narrow focus.
The St Albans original now takes reservations via OpenTable, a significant upgrade from the early days of dawn-alarm click-and-collect slots, though the most popular pizzas still sell out. And that second branch in that there London? It’s now two branches in that there London, with permanent restaurants at both Arcade Battersea Power Station and Arcade Tottenham Court Road since late 2025, each serving a bespoke menu featuring new pies like the Smokey Ron and a Grandma Square Pie alongside the St Albans classics. For a restaurant that started in 2021 with five tables and a secondhand oven, the trajectory has been remarkable.
Ideal for excellent Mexican food in St Albans’ most historic setting…
The Hughes family have created something genuinely special at The Boot: world-class birria tacos served in a pub where the War of the Roses allegedly began outside the front door. Head chef Lloyd Pell’s passion for Mexican cooking has transformed this medieval Market Place pub into St Albans’ unlikely Mexican food destination.
The birria tacos alone justify the journey, even from further afield than St Albans itself. Made with slow-cooked beef shin rather than the traditional goat, the meat arrives tender and deeply flavoured, served in fried tortillas with the cooking broth alongside for dipping. It’s skilled Mexican technique producing intensely satisfying results – messy eating that delivers powerful, distinctive flavours (and a ruined white t-shirt) with every bite.
Pell’s menu extends well beyond the famous birria, though. The padron peppers arrive properly blistered and generously seasoned, whilst the spiced cauliflower vegan taco comes piled so high it challenges your taco-folding skills. The corn cob brushed with chipotle crema and parmesan has become an Instagram favourite, but more importantly, it tastes brilliant.
The pub setting actually enhances rather than detracts from the Mexican food. Low ceilings create that warm, convivial atmosphere that makes tacos taste even better, whilst the historic surroundings provide conversational fodder between courses. The beer selection includes some excellent choices – Harvey’s Sussex Best pairs surprisingly well with spicy food – and the background music tends towards classics (Blur and Pulp during our visit).
Monthly vinyl nights with special one-off tacos show the restaurant’s commitment to being more than just a food destination. This is community dining at its best, with the Hughes family creating a space that works equally well for casual drinks or serious taco consumption.
The combination of historic setting, excellent beer, and genuinely skilled Mexican cooking makes The Boot genuinely unique. It’s one of our favourites places to eat in St Albans, no question.
Ideal for breakfast in a 16th-century watermill setting…
Housed within the Grade II listed Kingsbury Watermill overlooking the River Ver, The Waffle House has been feeding St Albans since 1978. The location alone makes this worth visiting – a working watermill in the tranquil Conservation Area of St Michael’s village, just a ten-minute walk from the city centre but feeling utterly rural and very tranquil indeed.
The family business specialises in Belgian waffles made with organically grown flour from the 1000-year-old Redbournbury Mill, creating a local supply chain that stretches back centuries. Both sweet and savoury options cater to different appetites, with daily specials ensuring regular customers never get bored.
The savoury waffles deserve particular attention. Options like ratatouille with goat’s cheese or hummus with avocado transform the waffle from dessert into a substantial meal. The fried chicken waffle brings big New York energy, whilst the daily specials might include anything from smoked salmon to full cooked breakfast ingredients.
Sweet options follow Belgian traditions but with regional, seasonal touches where possible. The banoffee waffle remains their most Instagrammed dish, arriving with rich toffee sauce and fresh banana that hasn’t been allowed to go brown. Seasonal fruit features heavily in summer specials, making the most of Hertfordshire’s excellent fruit farms.
The dining room occupies the original mill building, with the water wheel still turning daily to maintain the historic atmosphere. Tables by the windows offer lovely views over the River Ver, whilst the outdoor seating area provides al fresco dining when weather permits.
The Waffle House operates primarily on a first-come, first-served basis, though they do accept reservations for Friday and Saturday evenings from 5pm for tables of 4 or more. This can mean queues at weekend brunch times for walk-ins. However, the wait rarely exceeds 20 minutes, and the chance to watch the water wheel turn while you wait adds to the fun.
Ideal for weekend brunch that’s worth queuing for…
Chris Evans’ all-day dining spot at Christopher Place has quickly established itself as St Albans’ premier brunch destination (when, perhaps, the waffle place is full, to be fair). The industrial-chic interior with its polished concrete floors and exposed brick provides an urban backdrop for seriously accomplished cooking that elevates familiar brunch dishes into something special.
What started as a brunch-only operation has grown considerably. Hatch now serves NYC Nights on Wednesday to Saturday evenings from 5pm, a menu of New York comfort food classics that gives the restaurant a whole second life after dark. Chris Evans has also launched Marmalade, a more grown-up brunch café on Holywell Hill (the original Hatch site), and a third outpost at Smallford Farm Shop using produce from the neighbouring Glinwell farm.
The Christopher Place flagship remains the main event, though, and the daytime menu still plays with expectations in all the right ways. Mushrooms on toast might sound modest, but arrives as punchy pickled mushrooms on sourdough with a poached egg, truffle oil, and a delicate puff of goat’s cheese mousse that transforms the entire dish.
The waffle game (they love beer and waffles in St Albans – it should be called St AlBelgium, perhaps?) here deserves particular recognition. Made from a traditional Belgian batter and cooked to order, these arrive crisp outside and fluffy within. The weekend special waffles change seasonally – recent highlights included versions with honey-roasted Spanish figs and dark chocolate ganache, or macerated Mirabelle plums with beetroot Eton mess and strawberry crisps. These aren’t confused as they sound – they’re vivid expressions of British seasonality in brunch form.
For those preferring savoury options, the burgers have earned devoted followers, whilst the loaded hash browns provide proper indulgence. Basically, there’s something on this menu to suit even the most fickle members of the squad.
The coffee here takes things seriously, with beans sourced from quality roasters and baristas who understand extraction. This isn’t afterthought coffee – it’s the kind of espresso and flat white that London coffee shops charge premium prices for.
Weekend queues are becoming standard, but the team manages waits efficiently and the food justifies any delay. The atmosphere remains relaxed despite the popularity, with dog-friendly policies adding to the neighbourhood feel.
Nicknamed ‘Iceland in Miniature’, the Snæfellsnes Peninsula packs glaciers, volcanoes, black sand beaches, lava fields and fishing villages into a single 90-kilometre stretch of West Iceland coastline. Here’s what not to miss.
The Snæfellsnes Peninsula sits about two hours northwest of Reykjavík, jutting out into the Atlantic like a crooked arm beckoning you further from the capital. Most visitors to Iceland stick to the Golden Circle or the Ring Road, both of which deserve the attention they get. But Snæfellsnes offers something different: a concentrated, wonderfully varied landscape that manages to compress the full breadth of Icelandic scenery into a single loop drive.
You could see the highlights in a long day trip from Reykjavík, but spending at least one night on the peninsula gives you breathing room, better light for photos and a chance to experience the place when the tour buses have gone. The loop itself follows Route 54, a well-maintained road that’s accessible year-round, though winter driving requires more care and a 4×4 is always the safer bet when conditions turn.
Whichever way you play it, the jist remains the same; these are the best things to see and do on Iceland’s Snæfellsnes Peninsula.
Kirkjufell & Kirkjufellsfoss
You’ve almost certainly seen this mountain before, even if you didn’t know it. Kirkjufell, meaning Church Mountain, rises 463 metres from the shore near Grundarfjörður on the peninsula’s north coast. Its distinctive steeple-like form featured as the Arrowhead Mountain in Game of Thrones, and it has since become one of the most photographed peaks in Iceland.
The neighbouring Kirkjufellsfoss waterfall provides the foreground for that much-reproduced shot, but the mountain shifts shape dramatically as you move around it, rewarding those who explore beyond the main viewpoint. There’s a paid car park at the waterfall. For a less crowded experience, visit early in the morning or late in the evening, when the light tends to be better anyway.
Climbing the mountain itself is possible in summer but demanding and dangerous in wet conditions, so most visitors are better off appreciating it from below.
This 3-kilometre trail along the southern coast of the peninsula is one of Iceland’s finest short hikes. Starting from Arnarstapi’s harbour, the path traces a clifftop nature reserve (protected since 1979) past dramatic basalt columns, sea arches and lava formations, with fulmars, kittiwakes and Arctic terns wheeling overhead throughout the breeding season.
The stand-out feature is Gatklettur, a natural stone arch sculpted by centuries of Atlantic erosion. The terrain transitions from grassy clifftop to a moss-covered lava field as you approach Hellnar, where the tiny café Fjöruhúsið serves homemade fish soup and cake on a wooden terrace overlooking the shore.
Most people walk back the same way they came, making this a roughly two-hour round trip. Start at either end; neither direction has a clear advantage.
Djúpalónssandur Beach
On the peninsula’s southwestern tip, within Snæfellsjökull National Park, Djúpalónssandur is a crescent of black volcanic pebbles backed by twisted lava formations. What separates it from other Icelandic black sand beaches is its layered history.
Four lifting stones sit near the shore, ranging from 23 to 154 kilograms, once used to test the strength of fishermen seeking work on local boats. Anyone who couldn’t manage at least the 54-kilogram stone was considered unfit for the sea. Visitors are welcome to try their luck.
Scattered across the sand are rusted remnants of the British trawler Epine GY7, which was wrecked here in 1948 with the loss of 14 lives, now preserved as a memorial. A one-kilometre walk west takes you to Dritvík cove, once one of Iceland’s busiest seasonal fishing stations. Be warned: the waves here are powerful and unpredictable. This is a beach for walking and looking, not wading.
The glacier-topped volcano Snæfellsjökull dominates the western tip of the peninsula and, on a clear day, is visible from Reykjavík across Faxaflói Bay. Jules Verne chose it as the entry point in A Journey to the Centre of the Earth, and even without the literary associations, it holds a certain magnetic quality.
The national park surrounding it is Iceland’s smallest but covers a striking range of terrain, from lava fields and coastal cliffs to the ice cap itself. In summer, guided glacier hikes are available for those with the fitness and nerve for it. At other times, the park’s marked trails and viewpoints offer plenty of reward without the crampons.
Vatnshellir Lava Cave
Formed by an eruption roughly 8,000 years ago, Vatnshellir is a 200-metre lava tube that descends about 35 metres beneath the surface of Snæfellsjökull National Park. Guided tours run year-round (more frequently in summer) and last about 45 minutes, taking you through three chambers of vividly coloured volcanic rock: reds from iron, yellows from sulphur, greens from copper.
At the deepest point, your guide will ask you to switch off your torches for a spell of total darkness. It’s a brief, slightly unnerving moment that most people remember long after the rest of the tour has faded.
The cave is located about ten minutes’ drive from the village of Hellnar. Tours are operated by Summit Adventure Guides, the sole licensed operator.
Búðakirkja
Sitting alone in a vast lava field on the southern coast, the small black church at Búðir is one of the most photographed buildings in Iceland. A church has stood on this site since 1703; the current structure dates to 1848 and was renovated in 1987. Its stark dark timber against the moss-covered rock and open sky makes for a scene that looks vaguely unreal in person.
It draws tour buses, so afternoon visits tend to be busier. The surrounding Búðahraun lava field is worth exploring too, a labyrinth of ancient basalt softened by thick green moss that extends in every direction.
Stykkishólmur
The largest town on the peninsula (population around 1,100), Stykkishólmur is worth more than a fuel stop. Its colourful harbour is lined with restored wooden houses dating back to the early 19th century, including the Norwegian House, built in 1832 and now a regional museum.
The Baldur ferry departs from here for the Westfjords, stopping at the tiny island of Flatey en route. Roni Horn’s Library of Water, an art installation featuring columns of glacier water collected from across Iceland, occupies a former library on the hill above town. Climb Súgandisey island, now connected to the harbour by a walkway, for panoramic views across Breiðafjörður Bay and its estimated 2,700 islands.
For dinner, Sjávarpakkhúsið by the harbour is widely considered the best restaurant on the peninsula.
Ytri Tunga Beach
Most visitors come here for one reason: seals. Ytri Tunga, on the peninsula’s south coast, is one of the best places in Iceland to spot harbour seals and grey seals lounging on the small rocky islands just offshore. The best time is May to July, though you may get lucky outside that window.
The beach itself is unusually golden for Iceland, a pleasing contrast from all the black volcanic sand elsewhere. It’s a short detour off Route 54 and easy to miss if you’re not looking for it; watch for a road marker with a small red-roofed house.
Gerðuberg Cliffs
Your first encounter with Snæfellsnes if you’re driving clockwise from Reykjavík, the Gerðuberg basalt columns line up like a geological organ pipe, hexagonal pillars formed by ancient lava flows that cooled with unusual symmetry. They recall the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland, if somewhat less famous.
The cliffs sit right alongside Route 54, making them an easy stop that requires no hiking. They’re particularly striking in low winter light or dusted with snow.
Lóndrangar Basalt Cliffs
On the southern coast near Malarrif, two jagged volcanic plugs jut from the coastline like the ruins of some improbable cathedral. These are the eroded remnants of an ancient volcanic crater, and they’re among the most dramatic coastal formations on the peninsula.
The area is rich in birdlife, including puffins during the breeding season, and short walking paths from the car park lead to several viewpoints. Lóndrangar tends to be less visited than the headlining attractions, which is part of the appeal.
Before You Go
There are a few practical questions worth answering before you set off for Snæfellsnes:
Do you need to rent a car in Iceland? For the peninsula, almost certainly yes — there’s no bus route around it, and day tours from Reykjavík leave little time for lingering.
How many days do you have? You can loop the peninsula in a long day, but two nights gives you breathing room and better light for photos.
Are you visiting in summer or winter? A standard car handles summer roads comfortably, but a 4×4 with studded tyres is the safer call between October and April.
Do you need to book anything in advance? The Vatnshellir cave tour and any glacier hikes should be reserved ahead, particularly in peak season. Everything else is turn up and go.
The Bottom Line
Snæfellsnes doesn’t demand the week-long commitment of the Ring Road or the months of planning that Iceland’s interior requires. It’s a complete, self-contained circuit of some of the country’s most varied landscapes, all reachable on a well-maintained road within easy reach of the capital. With a car, a full day and even a modest sense of curiosity, you’ll come away wondering why it took you this long to look beyond the Golden Circle.
Any time food and Paddington are mentioned in the same sentence, marmalade sandwiches of course come to mind, and even more so with that Yorkshire parkin, chicken liver parfait and marmalade version that was on Great British Menu a couple of years back. Yum.
Apologies, we’ve already digressed just one paragraph in…
But today, we’re talking about London not Peru Paddington, and the best places to eat near the station, which is, incidentally, the city’s sixth busiest by entries and exits.
Paddington Station, with its impressive arch-shaped train shed and wrought iron ribs, as designed by the legendary civil engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel and architect Sir Matthew Digby Wyatt, has been a significant transport hub since its inception in 1854.
It serves as the grand terminus for the Great Western Railway and has evolved as the centuries have progressed to suit London’s ever changing needs, from serving as the destination for Queen Victoria’s first ever train trip all the way to its Edwardian roof being lovingly restored in 2010.
Beyond the station, the wider area of Paddington is also famous for St Mary’s Hospital, where Nobel Prize winner Sir Alexander Fleming discovered penicillin, its Lindo Wing the birthplace of various members of British royalty, including Prince William, Prince Harry, Prince George, and Princess Charlotte.
Anyway, whether you’re royalty, resident or a roving daytripper, you’re going to need something to eat in this part of town. We’ve done the hard work, enduring delicious bites and bold flavours, all in the name of service to you, dear reader, and this guide on where to eat near London Paddington: the best restaurants near London Paddington.
Pearl Liang, Sheldon Square
Ideal for Cantonese seafood and dim sum in oddly opulent surrounds…
For those seeking a menu with its steely gaze firmly focused on a single country’s cuisine, then Pearl Liang, housed in a major canal-adjacent commercial development known as The Basin, might just see them right.
This upscale restaurant offers a wide range of Chinese dishes from across the country’s eight regions, though Cantonese classics, seafood and dim sum take centre stage on an elegantly crafted menu. Interestingly, dim sum is also served for dinner here, if a very specific craving hits you at a very specific time.
Should you succumb, go for the set of eight for a very reasonable £12.50, the king crab meat dumpling the highlight, its load lightened by whipped egg white. Throw in an extra order of a few cheung fun, the barbequed pork version as good as we’ve had anywhere in London.
Though the restaurant’s innocuous position amongst high rises and retail projects could be just about anywhere in the world, the dining room employs every trick to have you transported East; defined by visual motifs of cherry blossom, bamboo, and opulent koi-pond water features, the last of whose insistent trickling had this diner needing more bathroom breaks than a man of his age should be taking during a meal. Perhaps it was the provision of free-flowing, deliciously bitter jasmine tea…
Anyway, for a sophisticated dim sum experience that aims to challenge the dominance of the always reliable Royal China Club restaurant group in the city, Pearl Liang is certainly a good shout should be looking for somewhere to eat near London Paddington.
There’s a lot to like about Lurra. To start, it boasts a bright, calming dining room, refined in design with one glass wall overlooking a gorgeous courtyard dining area. Shortlisted for the Best Restaurant Interior Design Award in 2015, it’s undeniably a gorgeous space to spend time in.
It’s the food, though, that is the main draw. The menu here draws on the Basque region of Spain, meaning that you can expect some seriously robust flavours on your plate. Famed for their whole roasted turbot long before Brat were doing their thing out east, as well as the signature steaks, check out our full write-up of Lurra here. Yep, this one is definitely one of the best places to dine near London Paddington.
Ideal for Michelin-starred Mexican food using fresh and foraged British ingredients…
You’ll have to head a little further (7 minutes by car or a 20 on foot) away from Paddington Station for a truly world class dining experience, all the way to Marylebone’s Kol.
Santiago Lastra, the head chef and co-owner of the restaurant, certainly has some pedigree, having, with chef Rene Redzepi, masterminded Noma’s critically acclaimed Mexican iteration back in 2017.
Here, his vision of celebrating the finest British ingredients using both traditional Mexican cooking techniques and a fair few modern flourishes is executed flawlessly. Or rather, it feels flawless now; in reality, the restaurant’s opening was a rocky one, with successive lockdowns preventing Kol from getting off the ground as smoothly as it deserved.
What does make sense is the concept here, with ingredients traditionally so closely intertwined with Mexican food culture here substituted out for their broadly British equivalents. So, that’s an innovative pistachio puree replacing avocado, sea buckthorn bringing the acidity for Kol’s now iconic langoustine tacos, and a dairy farmer in Kent producing Oaxacan-style cheese for the restaurant.
All this wouldn’t matter if the food wasn’t as downright delicious as its inspiration across the Atlantic, but the recent main event here, of lamb barbacoa, freshly made tortillas and a selection of intricately composed condiments, was as straightforwardly satisfying as you’ll find in any restaurant with designs on the top awards in the culinary world.
With a fascinating wine list that draws on some of the unsung heroes of Central and Eastern Europe, Kol is already one of London’s top tier dining experiences. We can’t wait to see where they go next.
Ideal for no nonsense, flavour forward Thai food in a British pub setting…
Long before ‘nu-Thai’ became so ubiquitous in the capital that you couldn’t move without getting prik kee noo in your eye, Paddington pub The Heron was quietly pounding out some of the finest Thai food this side the Chao Phraya river, all from the humble kitchens of the pub’s basement.
At Thai Zapp (meaning ‘delicious’ in the North Eastern dialect of Thai) you won’t find som tam salads made with heritage celeriac, but instead, Thai food as you’d find it on the streets of Bangkok; pad Thai, green curry, tom yum, green papaya and all. Because sometimes, that’s what you really want from a Thai restaurant, isn’t it?
Ideal for authentic Malaysian home cooking in an unassuming setting…
Okay, Normah’s isn’t strictly ‘near’ London Paddington, but it’s too good not to mention. Or, indeed, walk an extra few hundred yards for…
Tucked away in the eclectic Queensway Market, Normah’s is – sorry, was – the definition of a hidden gem. Founded by Normah Abd Hamid, this intimate Malaysian restaurant has become one of London’s worst-kept secrets, drawing in devoted regulars and curious first-timers alike with its authentic, home-style cooking. Open Tuesday through Saturday from 5-9pm (closed Sundays and Mondays), it’s worth planning ahead to catch their limited service hours.
The space itself is charmingly basic – a few simple wooden tables surrounded by the market’s motley collection of phone repair shops, hairdressers and, curiously, a shop selling ‘Russian films’. But you’re not here for the decor. You’re here for Normah’s roti canai with beef rendang (just shy of a tenner), which many consider the best in London – yep, better than that guy -, its buttery, flaky layers perfect for scooping up the rich meat that’s been simmered for four hours with galangal, ginger, turmeric and coconut milk until all the flavours have homogenised into something truly alluring.
The curry laksa here is a revelation – thicker and more richly spiced than versions you’ll find elsewhere in London, with plump king prawns and springy noodles swimming in its aromatic depths. The assam pedas seabass, meanwhile, is a masterclass in balanced heat and sourness, the whole fish bathed in a vibrant red sauce that starts tangy before developing into a complex, throat-tickling spiciness. Heads up; also ruins your white shirt if even a flicker gets there. No, really; heads up. Look where you’re putting your spoon.
Don’t miss the fried chicken wings, which come with a crust so crisp it practically shatters, protecting impossibly juicy meat within. Wash it all down with a glass of rose-pink bandung or a frothy teh tarik (both £4), pulled to perfection.
Ideal for time-honoured Malaysian cuisine in elegant surroundings…
A Paddington institution since 1973, Satay House represents the old guard of Malaysian dining in London. Founded by Jaafar A. Shawal and his wife Zaharah Hashim, who previously ran one of Malaysia’s first fine-dining establishments in Kuala Lumpur, it’s now helmed by their daughter Fatizah, who maintains their exacting standards while gently modernising the offering. They keep generous hours, serving lunch from 12-4pm and dinner from 5:30-10pm daily.
Fried garlic chickenroti
The dining room, split across two levels, balances traditional touches with contemporary design – think grey and orange-red walls embedded with hibiscus motifs, the national flower of Malaysia. The ground floor offers a buzzy, casual atmosphere, while the basement provides a more intimate setting for date nights or private gatherings.
Their namesake satay skewers are exemplary – char-grilled chicken or lamb marinated in spices and herbs, served with a rich peanut sauce that you’ll want to bottle and take home. But it’s dishes like the sambal tumis udang petai – prawns and ‘stinky beans’ (here’s a tip; drink the water these sator beans have been boiled in, for its health-giving properties) in spicy sambal, clocking in at just shy of £20 – that really showcase the kitchen’s prowess. The beef rendang here is properly dry and nutty, while the kari laksa achieves that elusive balance of richness and complexity without becoming overwhelming.
Ideal for satisfying Lebanese fare and fresh juices around the clock…
Despite its name suggesting a simple juice bar, Ranoush Juice on Edgware Road is a comprehensive Lebanese restaurant that happens to do excellent fresh juices. Part of the venerable Maroush group, this smaller outpost maintains the high standards of its parent company while offering a more casual, drop-in friendly atmosphere. It’s a godsend for night owls, staying open until 3am daily and opening bright and early at 7am.
The menu is extensive, ranging from mezze classics to grilled meats and fresh fruit cocktails. Their hommos beiruty adds a kick of heat to the classic chickpea puree, while the mouhamara – a spiced nut mix with olive oil – offers an addictive combination of crunch and heat. The mixed shawarma platters are exemplary, whether wrapped in flatbread or served with vermicelli rice.
Ideal for old-school, wood and leather clad pub dining…
For something a little more homely, The Victoria is a classic British pub that has been serving Paddington locals and visitors since the 1830s. A winner of Fuller’s Pub of the Year in both 2007 and 2009, the menu features freshly cooked, straightforward dishes that just feel right in the old school setting – think leather Chesterfield armchairs rendered in royal green overlooking the fireplace and portraits of British gents in bowler hats on the wall… Yep, it’s that kind of place, and if smoking was still allowed inside pubs here, we’d be pulling out a pipe right about now.
The Sunday roast here isn’t half bad, with a generous serving of sirloin from Owton’s family butchers and all the trimmings (including cauliflower cheese – rejoice!) clocking in at an eminently reasonable £20.
Should you be heading here during the week, The Victoria also hosts regular events, including quiz nights and live music performances, making it a lively spot to spend an evening.
Ideal for hearty Kurdish and Middle Eastern grills…
This Edgware Road establishment specialises in Kurdish and Middle Eastern cuisine, with a particular focus on charcoal-grilled meats and traditional stews. Open daily from noon until 11pm, it’s a reliable choice for both lunch and dinner. The restaurant’s interior is simple but welcoming, with the focal point being the open grill where skilled chefs prepare an array of kebabs and mixed grills.
Their menu strength lies in its grilled offerings – the Azmar Special Kebab (lamb kofta) comes in at £14 with salad, while the impressive mixed grill for four (£60) offers an excellent introduction to their range. The lamb kuzi, featuring tender meat slow-cooked until it falls off the bone, is a house speciality worth seeking out (£19).
Ideal for intimate Persian dining and exceptional bread…
Hidden away on Crawford Place just off Edgware Road, this tiny Persian restaurant has become something of a cult favourite among those seeking authentic Iranian cuisine. Opening daily from noon to 11pm, it maintains consistent hours for both lunch and dinner crowds. The downstairs dining room is snug – you’ll likely be rubbing elbows with fellow diners – but that’s part of its charm, creating an atmosphere that feels more Tehran than London.
The star attraction here is undoubtedly their ‘big special bread’ (£5.50) – a vast oval of freshly baked flatbread, crisp in places, pillowy in others, and generously scattered with sesame seeds. It’s the perfect vehicle for their selection of charcoal-grilled kebabs (starting from £12.90), which come in various states of ‘juiciness’ (opt for ‘juicy’ – you won’t regret it).
Images by Paramount Lebanese Kitchen & Design by IDEAL
The restaurant formerly known as Ya Hala’ (not to be confused with the equally fine Yalla Yalla), Paramount Lebanese Kitchen’s newly renovated Paddington outpost boasts a large central charcoal grill. It’s here that flatbreads get well acquainted with some smoke and the restaurant’s signature kebabs drip their fat and juices with abandon, causing flames to lick up the wall and illuminate the dining room.
It’s quite the spectacle, but arguably the most joy at Paramount is found in the most simple of dishes – the fattoush salad here is as good as we’ve had, with the cucumber, lettuce and radish roughly portioned, just as it should be, rather than being diced too finely. The adorning pitta is fried to order, as it should be. The hummus is also excellent, roughly hewn and viciously, vigorously perfumed with minced garlic. It’s a funky old thing.
A spicy and sweet mint tea seals the deal. Be warned that Paramount is reliably rammed – do book in advance if you’re keen to swan in and secure a table.
Ideal for Syrian sweets and the best knefeh in London…
We end satisfying our sweet tooth, at Diwan Dimas. This Edgware Road establishment is nothing short of paradise. Opening its doors from 11am to 11:30pm daily, it’s perfect for both mid-morning sweet cravings and post-dinner desserts. Specialising in traditional Damascus-style pastries and desserts, Diwan Dimas has earned a reputation for serving some of London’s finest Middle Eastern sweets.
Their baklava selection is comprehensive, with boxes starting from £17.50 for 250g, ranging from traditional pistachio-filled varieties to more unusual creations. Their knefeh (£17.50 per kilo) draws the crowds, made the traditional way with a base of soft goat’s cheese topped with crisp, shredded filo pastry and doused in fragrant syrup. Other highlights include their mamoul (£23 per kilo) – shortbread-like cookies filled with dates, pistachios, or walnuts – and fresh warbat (£19.50 per kilo).
Searching for the best restaurants in Whitstable? Search no further…
There’s something rather magical about Whitstable. Perhaps it’s the way the light hits the oyster shells scattered across its shingle beach, or how the salt-laden breeze whips around the weatherboard cottages that line its streets. But in all honesty, we think it might be the food…
This charming Kent coastal town has long been a culinary destination, its connection to seafood stretching back to Roman times when those clever conquerors would ship the local oysters back to Rome. These days, the food scene has evolved far beyond those briny bivalves (though they’re still reason enough to hop on the National Express 007 and make for the coast), with everything from a Michelin-starred gastropub to natural wine bars making their mark on the town.
In a town that manages to toe the line between quaint and bustling with aplomb, there are a surprising number of great places to eat in Whitstable. You’ll need help finding the very best, of course; from old school institutions to exciting new chapters, here’s our pick of the best restaurants in Whitstable, Kent.
Wheelers Oyster Bar, High Street
Ideal for iconic seafood in a pink-fronted parlour that’s been serving since 1856…
Some restaurant facades become iconic, symbolic of a whole town, even, and none more so than the candy-floss pink facade of Wheelers. Founded by local Master Mariner Richard Leggy Wheeler in 1856, this is not only Whitstable’s oldest restaurant but reportedly England’s oldest seafood restaurant. While its London siblings (once part of Bernard Walsh’s restaurant empire, and once under the stewardship of Marco Pierre White) have long since disappeared, the original still stands proud, serving pristine plates of fish and shellfish with the same devotion to quality that’s marked its remarkable history.
Inside, the tiny parlour-style dining room is pure coastal charm, with maritime memorabilia adorning every available inch of wall space. But you’re not here for the decor. You’re here for chef Mark Stubbs and his team’s masterful handling of whatever the local dayboats have landed that morning. Everything here is made from scratch, from the daily-baked bread to the house ice creams, with produce coming directly from local fishermen and even the restaurant’s own organic garden.
The daily menu embraces a dazzling range of culinary styles: you might find chargrilled scallops alongside crispy asparagus and crab mimosa, or sticky Korean prawns with kachumber salad and gochujang. For the full experience, book ahead for the Friday and Saturday evening tasting menu, where an eight-course procession takes you through Stubbs’ inventive seafood cookery, from elegant crab profiteroles to glazed gurnard with caramelised chicory and orange grenobloise.
Open most days for lunch and into the evening (with extended hours on Fridays and Saturdays), just remember to book well ahead. And do pick up a bottle from The Offy across the road; it’s BYO with a modest corkage per table.
If you can’t secure a table, their ready-to-eat beach and garden picnic boxes make for a rather special plan B, think home-smoked tiger prawns with roasted garlic and chilli, curried crab with lime and yoghurt, and saffron seafood arancini finished with nduja butter, all designed for two people. What’s not to love about this place?
Ideal for classic British fish and chips done right…
No guide to Whitstable dining would be complete without mentioning the quintessential fish and chip shop experience, and Ossie’s Fish and Chips delivers just that. This local institution has been a favourite among both locals and visitors for years, thanks to its consistently delicious, no-nonsense approach to fish and chips.
Located just off Whitstable High Street and a 30 minute walk along the coast from Whitstable’s main beach, Ossie’s might look unassuming from the outside, but it’s been named one of the best in the UK by BBC Good Food. It’s got everything you want from a chippy; cheerful, cheeky staff, a line of locals popping in for takeaway, and, of course, fresh-as-you-like fish.
A family affair, run by brother-and-sister team Ozan and Elvan Bodur, who are originally from Istanbul and a family of fishermen, battered fish is the centerpiece here, from flaky cod and haddock to tender plaice, all encased in delightfully crisp, golden batter.
The chips are equally noteworthy, perfectly cooked with a crunchy exterior and soft, fluffy interior. Beyond the classic fish and chips shop offerings, you’ll find specialities such as pan fried local skate with capers and butter, and Belgian style mussels served with white wine sauce and French baguette or chips.
For many, a takeaway from Ossie’s is best enjoyed with a walk down to the beach, but they also offer a small seating area if you prefer to tuck in immediately. End with something of an anomaly for a chippy; a tiramisu. Though perhaps not as downright decadent as those found in a Roman trattoria, it is remarkably good.
Whether taking away or eating in, be prepared to queue, especially on weekends and holidays. Rest assured; the wait is worth it.
We do urge you to support this fish and chip shop. In recent years Whitstable has lost another local favourite, V.C Jones (run by the same family for 62 years), leaving the town with only two fish and chip shops. That’s slim pickings for a seaside town that’s also something of a culinary destination. Long live Ossie’s, we say.
Ideal for destination dining that puts terroir front and centre…
Technically not in Whitstable but too good to exclude (and reachable via a rugged, bracing hour’s walk along the beach), this seemingly humble pub stands proud between grazing sheep and the Thames Estuary, with nothing on the horizon as you approach but a few lonely beach huts and a sense of raw, rough beauty.
Don’t let the weathered white clapboard exterior and slightly bleak marshland location fool you. Inside, the pub is home to one of Britain’s most acclaimed kitchens. Self-taught chef Stephen Harris has turned what he jokingly calls a “grotty run-down pub” into a place of culinary pilgrimage, holding its Michelin star continuously since 2008 and consistently featuring among the National Restaurant Awards and Top 50 Gastropubs lists.
The history runs deep here. There’s been an inn on this spot since 1642, but the area’s connection to food stretches back to the Domesday Book, when these marsh-fringed acres belonged to Canterbury Cathedral’s kitchens. Harris follows those monastic footsteps, letting the immediate environment dictate the menu. The Thames Estuary provides oysters and fish, while the surrounding marshland, woods and fertile soils supply meat, vegetables and game. They even collect seawater to make their own salt.
Two menus are available: a five-course tasting menu and a shorter midweek option offered Tuesday to Thursday. Both start with home-churned butter and bread, setting the tone for the precision to follow. You might encounter the iconic slip sole grilled in seaweed butter (though it’s become harder for the kitchen to source), braised turbot with cep and lemon verbena sauce, or roast saddle of lamb from the salt marshes opposite. The celebrated cheese soufflé with rarebit sauce, and smoked mackerel on soda bread with horseradish, remain highlights whenever they appear.
The wine list is as thoughtfully curated as the food, with markups notably lower than you’d find in London for cooking of this calibre. For a special treat, look for something from Gusbourne Estate, the highly regarded Kent vineyard just down the road in Appledore.
Serving lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday, with Sunday lunch only, this is destination dining at its finest. If you want to make a proper pilgrimage of it, book one of their four garden cabins, each equipped with a king-size bed and provisions for breakfast. Just remember to book well ahead.
Ideal for modern Kentish cooking that puts local produce on a pedestal…
Australian chef George Begg’s story is a tale of serendipity. En route to Antibes in 2004 to work as a private chef on a luxury yacht, he spotted an empty shop near Whitstable beach. Plans changed, and Samphire was born, becoming the town’s first all-day bistro with a focus on the finest Kentish produce.
After two decades at the helm, Begg retired in 2025 and handed the restaurant to Jim Cleaver’s Beach Street Restaurants, a well-regarded group of pubs and restaurants across South East Kent. The good news? The team remains the same, with Dee, Holly and the rest of the crew keeping the Samphire spirit alive. The focus on Kentish produce hasn’t shifted either: game from nearby Stour Valley, organic veg from Chatham, asparagus from Sandwich. Mmmm, asparagus sandwich…
The black and gold frontage might hint at fine dining pretensions, but inside you’ll find an altogether more relaxed affair, a proper neighbourhood restaurant that just happens to serve some of the finest food in town. The kitchen team here is obsessive about provenance.
The menu changes with the seasons but always maintains a careful balance between land and sea. Starters might include wild mushrooms with oozing egg yolk and flecks of tarragon, or their exemplary cod and parmesan croquettes with confit garlic mayonnaise. Main courses showcase the kitchen’s versatility: the fish pie has long held a following locally, while mains like confit duck leg with nduja pearl barley show equal care with meat. Vegetarians aren’t an afterthought either, with dishes designed to stand on their own merit rather than fill a gap on the menu.
The wine list deserves a mention, with a strong showing of local bottles from Chapel Down alongside well-chosen international options. The sparkling selection is particularly strong on Kent producers, from Silver Reign in Luddesdown to Gusbourne’s Blanc de Blancs.
A weekday set lunch offers particularly good value (recent pricing has been around £20 for two courses), and the brunch menu at weekends draws a loyal crowd. This is a Whitstable cornerstone, and under its new ownership it remains exactly that.
Ideal for Mediterranean mezze with stunning sea views…
There’s a reason why the likes of Suggs, Jay Rayner and Tom Kerridge rallied to save JoJo’s when developers threatened to buy this beloved spot during the pandemic. Opened in 2000 by chef Nikki Billington and front-of-house Paul Watson (initially in their own home before moving to these larger seafront premises in 2010), this family-run restaurant has mastered the art of seemingly effortless hospitality.
The owners might modestly claim they “don’t do nowt fancy”, but that undersells the quality of their Mediterranean-inspired sharing plates. The mutton and feta koftas are as good as we’ve had this side of Saso, while the grilled mackerel showcases their deft touch with seafood.
JoJo’s mixed meze platters are a particular highlight: the full spread arrives laden with everything from homemade hummus and tzatziki to artisanal cured meats, including cecina and chorizo, alongside vibrant salads, and is designed to feed a group of five to seven. Better go make some friends first…
Everything just tastes so vital, perhaps not surprising when noting that much of the produce comes from their own garden, which supplies seasonal vegetables, leaves and even the flowers that grace the tables. The commitment to quality runs deep: all meat is free range, fish comes from sustainable stocks, stocks come from sustainable fish, and the whole team works closely with trusted local suppliers.
Warming to a theme, the wine list keeps things accessible and interesting. On warmer days, grab a table on the terrace, order a plate of calamari and a glass of rosé, and watch kitesurfers glide past while contemplating the homemade desserts. Or, you know, anything else that might be on your mind…
Open Thursday through Sunday (with both lunch and dinner service except Sundays, which is lunch only), this is relaxed coastal dining at its finest. Just remember to book ahead: this slice of Mediterranean life by the North Sea has quite the following, its popularity boosted by Jay Rayner naming JoJo’s as one of the best value places to eat at the seaside.
If you don’t have a booking, you might be able to nab a seat at their cocktail and tapas bar which offers a pared-down version of the main menu. There’s also a gorgeous flat above JoJo’s with sweeping views of the sea and a small terrace balcony to take in the famous local sunsets. You can book on Airbnb, a smart move in the name of enjoying one of Whitstable’s best dining experiences.
There’s something rather fitting about finding excellent tapas in a seafront town, and Lee Murray’s intimate but airy space has been nailing the brief since 2016. The owner’s deep connection to Kent’s food scene (he’s been supplying the county’s finest produce at Murray’s Stores in Canterbury’s Goods Shed for over a dozen years) means that while the heart of the menu might beat to a Spanish rhythm, many ingredients are impeccably sourced from nearby.
The stripped-back space, with its white walls and generous windows that feel like they let the whole world in, allows the food to do the talking. And boy, does it have plenty to say, starting with para picar (snacks) like chicken jamón and leek croquettas with aioli or their excellent roasted garlic and white bean hummus with flatbread.
Unsurprisingly, the seafood side of the menu is particularly strong. Grilled butterflied sardines with fennel and salsa verde arrive blistered, burnished and balanced beautifully by the piquant salsa, while the tiger prawns with chilli, ginger and garlic are everything you want the famous dish to be, as in, with a sauce that’s crying out for some bread for dunking.
The cured meats section features some of Spain’s finest exports, from jamón serrano with manchego to the premium jamón Ibérico. For something more substantial, the lamb cutlets with chickpea salad and harissa yoghurt shows the kitchen’s ability to venture beyond traditional tapas territory without losing its way. Save room for the Basque cheesecake: it’s become something of a signature, and a gold-standard version of a dessert that often overpromises and underdelivers in the wrong hands.
Opening Wednesday through Saturday for dinner (plus lunches Thursday to Saturday) and Sunday lunch only, this is the kind of place that makes you want to order in waves, letting the afternoon or evening unfold at a properly Spanish pace. The attentive, on-point staff are happy to guide you through both the menu and the well-chosen Spanish wine list.
That considered pace is probably for the best: the restaurant’s popularity means tables can be hard to come by, especially during peak hours. Book ahead and arrive hungry; this is tapas worth planning your day around.
Ideal for fresh-as-it-gets seafood in a historic setting…
Few restaurants can claim a history stretching back to the 1400s, but the Whitstable Oyster Company isn’t your average establishment. One of Europe’s oldest companies, it has been farming the famous Royal Whitstable Native Oyster since before Shakespeare was born. The Romans loved these bivalves so much they shipped them back to Rome, and at the company’s peak in the 1850s, some 80 million oysters a year made their way to Billingsgate Market.
Housed in the red-brick Royal Native Oyster Stores building, the restaurant offers stunning views over the very oyster beds where your starter might have been harvested just hours before. Now a Michelin Selected restaurant in the 2026 Guide, it celebrates these prized molluscs in various ways: have them au naturel, or try them Royale style with black truffle butter and champagne. But there’s far more to this place than just oysters.
Image via @whitstableoystercompany
The kitchen shows real finesse with all manner of seafood. Start with the three-cheese crab gratin or their house-cured Oyster Stout salmon with treacle soda bread for an appreciation of the fine details the chefs get right. Main courses showcase the best of the day’s catch, from pan-fried local Dover sole meunière to grilled whole local lobster Thermidor. The steamed razor clams in parsley butter are a masterclass in simplicity, a stone cold classic combo that lets the pristine leading ingredient speak for itself.
Since 1978 when Barrie Green and John Knight took over the then-struggling business, the company has invested heavily in sustainable production methods, efforts recognised when their oyster beds were granted Protected Geographical Status. Keeping things in the family, the restaurant is now run by the next generation, Richard and James Green. Its own version of sustainability, we think.
Open daily for lunch and dinner (except Sunday evenings), with tables offering majestic views over the oyster grounds, this is more than just a meal: it’s a taste of living history. Just remember to leave room for the white chocolate panna cotta with rhubarb and amaretti crumb. It’s fabulous.
Ideal for simple seafood perfection right on the beach…
Sometimes the simplest things are the best, particularly where seafood is concerned, and The Forge proves this point with panache. This black-painted corrugated iron shed, just off the seafront walkway, strips the seafood experience back to its essentials: fresh catch, simple cooking, picnic bench seating, and views over the sea wall that’ll make you forget whatever else you had planned for the day.
While many flock to Whitstable’s fancier establishments, those in the know head here for more accessible seaside fare. Their line-caught cod and chips comes with lacey, crispy batter, while their scampi is always a winner. The native and rock oysters are served just as they should be (just-shucked, over ice, with a segment or two of lemon), and if you’re feeling flush, there’s cold-steamed lobster for true seafood enthusiasts.
The drink selection is all you need on a brisk, breezy British day by the seaside, from freshly brewed coffee (lattes and cappuccinos for those morning visits) to local draught cider and a concise but well-chosen wine list. They even stock oyster stout, the perfect accompaniment to a plate of natives.
Open daily from 9am to 5pm, this is the kind of place that makes you want to suspend time for a while. Grab a spot at one of the outdoor tables, breathe in that sea air, and remind yourself why sometimes the best meals are the simplest ones. Just save room for their freshly made doughnuts: they’re the perfect sweet finish to a seaside feast.
If Samphire is Whitstable’s locavore bistro, Birdies is its more traditional French cousin, the one with red-and-white checked tablecloths and a certain kind of cosy clutter that feels just right.
Philip and Sue Colthup have been running this Harbour Street favourite since the early 1980s, bringing their experience from London and New York kitchens to this intimate coastal spot. Their light touch with both the decor and menu has proved enduring, and a recent expansion into the former hardware shop next door has finally given them the space to stop turning customers away at the door.
The cooking here focuses on French classics executed with precision. The à la carte menu might tempt you with starters like moules marinière with cream and parsley, or their exemplary duck liver parfait en croute. Main courses showcase both surf and turf: the fillet of beef Wellington with red wine jus is a masterclass in timing, while the skate wing with beurre noisette and capers shows equal finesse with fish. Their fruits of the sea platter is a celebration of local waters, loaded with oysters, crab claws, langoustines and more.
The set lunch menu offers good value, featuring simplified versions of their classics alongside daily specials. However you play it and however full you might be, find an extra shelf for dessert; their Normandy apple pancake, caramelised and served with crème fraîche, is perhaps Whitstable’s best sweet treat.
Open for lunch Tuesday to Sunday and dinner every evening, this family-run restaurant maintains high standards while keeping things refreshingly unpretentious. Dogs are welcome (maximum two per table, mind, and no sitting on chairs). Just remember to book ahead: this slice of French sophistication by the sea has quite the following.
We realise it’s somewhat perverse to be ending this roundup of the best restaurants in Whitstable having brunch, but perhaps we’ve been up all night and we’ve worked up an appetite…
Anyway, don’t let the bright pastel murals and Instagrammable interiors fool you. Farm & Harper takes its food very seriously indeed. Owner Phill Macgregor, whose CV includes stints at The Lanesborough and under Barry Tonks at Bonds, has created something rather special here: a daytime spot that delivers on both style and substance.
Breakfast and lunch are the main events, with the Famous Farmer breakfast threatening to ruin all other full English offerings for you. Elsewhere on the brunch menu, a firm favourite is the Three Little Pigs brioche breakfast bun with a sausage patty, smoked bacon and black pudding, the runny yoke from the egg adding richness and the tomato and chilli jam adding piquancy. It’s irresistible. For those who like something sweet to kickstart the day, their bacon banana bread (or BBB as we like to call it) slathered in maple syrup will see you right.
The kitchen shows real flair with dishes like king prawns on sourdough or their aromatic fish curry, while the monthly Saturday Food + Friends dinners showcase more ambitious cooking with one-off menus ranging from bouillabaisse to Middle Eastern small plates.
The coffee (their matcha lattes have quite the following) and home-baked treats are worth a visit alone, think classics like lemon drizzle cake and coffee and walnut cupcakes, but it’s the overall package, warm service, beautiful plating, and that indefinable buzz of a place that knows exactly what it’s doing, that makes Farm & Harper such a worthy addition to Whitstable’s dining scene.
The picturesque market town of Berkhamsted, nestled in the Chiltern Hills, boasts a surprisingly diverse and accomplished food scene for a place of its size. From Turkish small plates to pub classics cooked to exacting standards, the town and its surroundings offer a range of dining options broad enough to satisfy even the most discerning food enthusiast.
Berkhamsted’s excellent restaurants bolster the area’s appeal as a popular commuter town. With its historic high street and canal-side setting, combined with excellent train links to London Euston, it’s easy to see why ‘Berko’ (as it’s known by locals) is described as a ‘commuter’s dream’. But what truly gives Berkhamsted its character is the thriving food scene, one which has locals and visitors alike spoiled for choice. To help you with find a truly great meal here, here’s our pick of the best restaurants in Berkhamsted.
Tabure
Ideal for Turkish small plates and a reliably lively atmosphere…
If we had a pound for every Berkhamsted local who’s told us “you have to try Tabure,” we’d have enough cash to order their entire menu. And, perhaps enough to buy a house in the area, too.
Indeed, the first recommendation any Berkhamstedians will offer is invariably Tabure, beloved the town’s culinary cognoscenti for its Turkish sharing plates and reliably lively vibe.
Founded by husband and wife team Hulya and Mark, Tabure embodies the couple’s passion for great food. The menu reflects Hulya’s childhood in Turkey, drawing inspiration from various regional cuisines. Sourcing is impeccable – all meat is organic or free-range from Welsh farms, while only the freshest sustainable fish is delivered daily.
Kick off your meal with a medley of house dips served with freshly grilled pitta for dipping. The babaganus comes with a cave-depth of smokiness while the creamy labneh with aromatic confit garlic and a liberal amount of za’atar is just gorgeous. From the larger plates, don’t miss the Sultan’s Risotto made with bulgur wheat, or the merguez spiced lamb sausages. Keenly spiced and just the right side of fatty, they’ve got to be one of the tastiest sausages in town.
The drinks menu features lesser-known Turkish wines – the indigenous Kalecik Karasi grape, sharing the lightness of a Pinot Noir, is particularly worth trying. Be sure to pay attention to the cocktails on offer too, which feature classics with a Tabure twist – Sumac Margarita, anyone?
On weekends, Tabure serves their take on a Sunday roast but really, we’re here for the small plates, not something more hulking. Don’t be put off by the ‘small’ part here; these are substantial and satisfying enough not to have you stopping for chips on the way home. With its open kitchen and consistent quality, it’s easy to see why Tabure remains a local favourite.
Such is the love for Tabure that it’s now spread well beyond Berkhamsted, with branches in St Albans and Harpenden joining the original. The expansion hasn’t diluted things one bit – if anything, it confirms what locals have known for years.
There are two types of Greek restaurants: the innovative ones trying to ‘elevate’ traditional dishes into something they’re now, and the ones that know those dishes are already perfect. The Olive Tree falls firmly in the second camp, and we just love it.
Now entering its second decade of operating on Berkhamsted High Street, this independently owned Greek taverna has become part of the town’s fabric – known by everyone and the scene of many a birthday, anniversary and just about any other excuse for a celebration.
The food here isn’t revelatory or innovative, it’s much better than that, focusing on executing classic dishes with authenticity. The recipes come from Yiayia (Panagiota), the family matriarch who provides the culinary inspiration.
The meze-style dining encourages guests to share multiple dishes in a relaxed atmosphere. Order the filo feta wrap – blocks of creamy feta wrapped in crispy phyllo and finished with a drizzle of raw honey and a generous sprinkle of sesame seeds. Char-grilled skewers of Chicken Souvlakia come exceedingly tender and succulent.
The striking cobalt blue exterior instantly transports you to a seaside taverna in Santorini, complete with traditional white trim and those cascading bougainvillea flowers that seem to thrive despite the English climate. The attention to authentic Greek architectural details extends inside, where whitewashed walls, blue accents, and Mediterranean touches create an immersive experience that feels wonderfully out of place on a British high street. Indeed, the bright, airy space is so convincingly Mediterranean that people may genuinely mistake photos of your visit here as holiday pics. When the sun hits just right, you could close your eyes and believe you were in Greece.
Always buzzy, particularly on weekends, and staffed by genuinely friendly people, this beloved Greek taverna delivers consistently good food in a warm, lively setting that keeps locals coming back.
Ideal for a sophisticated gastropub that focuses heavily on food, but where you can still get a pint…
Just outside Berkhamsted, in chocolate-box cute Aldbury, you’ll find The Trooper Pub. Set in the Ashridge estate and recently renovated, this boozer is now a country-style gastro pub that combines its heritage charm with contemporary flair. Actually, we’re not totally confident we can call this one ‘pub grub’ as the menu strays from your usual country pub playbook.
The Trooper closed briefly in mid-2025 before reopening under new management, and the kitchen continues to focus on locally sourced seasonal produce, paying tribute to traditional British cooking with a contemporary edge. The menu now runs seven days a week across the main pub, while The Trooper Barn has shifted to a more relaxed local pub style on Fridays to Sundays, with a full food menu available alongside pints of Tring Brewery ale and Beavertown Neck Oil. Butterflied mackerel, blistered and burnished on the grill and topped with a pretty arrangement of micro-herbs and pink pickled shallot, has been a highlight here and the kind of dish that signals serious intent from a country pub kitchen.
Sunday roasts have earned particular acclaim and a long line of traffic leaving Berkhamsted on the Sabbath Day, with the highlight a Scotsgrove farm dry-aged beef sirloin with braised ox cheek. For something more laid back, the venue is actually split between the formal dining pub and ‘The Trooper Barn’, where you can get breakfast and lunch options, or simply coffee and cake.They have a gorgeous beer garden too – ideal for pints and a plate of chips in the summer.
Ideal for a baked goodies in the stunning setting of Ashridge House…
Sitting pretty in the courtyard of the magnificent courtyard of Ashridge House, The Bakehouse opened in 2020 and has quickly established itself as a beloved community hub. This artisanal café boasts a picturesque setting, with the majestic architecture of Ashridge House providing a breathtaking backdrop.
They’ve got that farm-to-table thing going on, celebrating seasonal ingredients with herbs and veg grown in their own garden. Breakfast features all the classics but done properly and executed with flair, while lunch expands to include dishes such as the croque monsieur or buttermilk chicken burger with house spice mix. The in-house pastry team supplies warm scones and fresh cakes daily.
The Bakehouse has become a magnet for various groups – walkers emerging from the scenic Ashridge Estate, cyclists in need of refreshment, families enjoying a day out, or friends gathering for a leisurely weekend brunch. The café’s dog-friendly policy ensures that four-legged companions are welcome too.
Ideal for a theatrical fine dining experience where you can watch chefs craft your meal before your eyes…
A quick drive from Berkhamsted in neighbouring Tring, Crockers has established itself as one of the area’s most prestigious culinary destinations since 2018. Awarded 3 AA rosettes and featured in the Michelin Guide, this stylish establishment offers contemporary fine dining in a refreshingly unpretentious atmosphere.
Set across three floors of a historic townhouse, Crockers provides multiple dining experiences – there’s the main dining room, the cellar bar and The Chef’s Table. The latter is undoubtedly the crown jewel – a theatrical culinary performance where 16 guests sit at a U-shaped counter surrounding an open kitchen. Here, Head Chef Scott Barnard (a finalist on MasterChef) and his team prepare each exquisite plate before your eyes.
The copper-walled dining space creates a striking backdrop for the seasonally-driven tasting menus, which change daily to showcase the freshest available ingredients. What sets Crockers apart is its commitment to delivering fine dining without pomposity, as the Michelin inspectors note – food that is “beautifully cooked and presented, but also free of the pomp that’s often associated with fine dining.”
Ideal for a hyper-seasonal dining experience in a secluded countryside pub with impeccable sourcing credentials...
Hidden in a secluded wooded valley on the edge of the Ashridge Estate, The Alford Arms is the definition of a destination pub worth seeking out. This Victorian gem in the tiny hamlet of Frithsden has been under the stewardship of David and Becky Salisbury since 1999, who have earned it the title of Hertfordshire Dining Pub of the Year many, many times.
Head Chef Jamie Celnik crafts fortnightly-changing menus showcasing the very best of seasonal, local produce – and here, ‘local’ really does mean local. Their impressive sourcing credentials list suppliers within precise distances: cheese from 28.17 miles away, lamb and beef from 7.07 miles, honey from 3.15 miles, and even wild garlic foraged from the surrounding woodlands.
The menu bridges classic British pub fare with internationally-inspired dishes. Signature starters include bubble and squeak with oak-smoked bacon, a dish that’s been on the menu since day one. Despite its rural location, seafood makes an impressive showing, carefully sourced from the West Country.
When it comes to drinks, they’ve got at least three cask beers at any time, often from nearby Chiltern or Tring Breweries, and a wine list that’s exclusively European (chosen to reduce food miles).
Dog owners will be pleased to know that four-legged companions are welcome in the bar and on the heated terrace, making it perfect after a ramble through the Ashridge Estatealfred
Ideal for indulging in world-class pastries and award-winning sourdough…
If you’re the kind of person who gets emotional about laminated dough, Nena is your happy place. A Sunday morning visit to Nena bakery has become something of a ritual for many Berkhamsted residents. The difficult decision lies not in whether to visit, but in which of their pastries to select – all are exceptional and when paired with one of their quality coffees, it’s the perfect weekend indulgence.
You won’t find a single baked good at Nena which isn’t technically brilliant. Their rotating menu features constant innovations and seasonal specials, but if you see the croissant-cookie hybrid, grab it immediately – it’s like a buttery, flaky and a triumph. Oh, and their brioche-maritozzi hybrid, filled with passion fruit cream, is dangerously decadent and downright delicious.
This sort of community touchpoint (and an excuse for a seriously indulgent, sugar-fuelled morning) often features in the area guides produced by visiting vloggers, local Berkhamsted estate agencies and the local Hemel Today newspaper, too.
Ideal for brunching on hyper-healthy, energising options that are as Instagram-worthy as they are nutritious…
Located on Lower Kings Road, Jester is a good-natured spot offering a refreshing alternative to traditional breakfast fare. It’s healthy brunch incarnate and where Berkhamsted residents go when they want to convince themselves that a smoothie bowl is as satisfying as a Full English, and it’s easy to see why they’ve been convinced…
The smoothie bowls form the cornerstone of their offering and are vibrant creations that look like edible modern art. The Açai Bowl delivers a tropical sensation and comes with enough superfoods to make you feel immortal while the Protein Bowl has enough nutritious ingredients to satisfy people who say things like ‘leg day’ unironically. Guilty!
Beyond smoothie bowls that probably extend your lifespan, Jester serves satisfying plates of open toast topped with healthy toppings. Think beetroot hummus toast and feta cheese with a sprinkle of chia seeds. Even their avocado toast gets dressed up with pumpkin seeds, chilli flakes, and cherry tomatoes, plus a drizzle of olive oil. They are the kind of plates that ask to be photographed and then eaten. Or, perhaps, hung on the wall. There are also yoghurt bowls, wholesome porridge options and fruit salads available, too.
The space is calm and contemporary – all clean lines and natural light – making it ideal for weekend brunching when you want to be smug about your healthy choices while secretly planning which pastry you’ll get from Nena after.
Ideal for a journey-worthy dining adventure with exceptional wine pairings…
Approximately twenty minutes’ drive from Berkhamsted, in Amersham, Bisto Twelve Twenty offers a dining experience that draws the crowds. This intimate restaurant has carved out a niche with its distinctive approach to fusion cuisine, and we’re very much here for it.
Founded by Chef Mark Durman and Sous Chef Iz, this intimate spot does sharing plates that actually work as sharing plates – not too big, not too small, just right for fighting over who gets the last bite. The menu changes constantly, showcasing whatever seasonal ingredients they’ve managed to get excited about that week. You might find tagliatelle beef ragù with wild mushrooms one day, and smoked beef brisket with Jersey Royal potato salad and kimchi the next.
What truly sets Bistro Twelve Twenty apart is its exceptional wine programme, curated by Sommelier Kiera. The list eschews predictability, featuring bottles from renowned and lesser-known regions alike. The staff will be happy to steer you in the right direction, according to your preference rather than the restaurant’s bottom line.
Here. the ethos is “to give fine dining quality in an intimate and relaxed environment” – sophisticated cuisine and exceptional wines served without pretension. We think it’s mission complete.
Ideal for a special occasion Michelin-starred experience in a historic setting…
Housed in a charming 16th-century converted cottage on Old Amersham’s beautiful high street, The Artichoke has now held its Michelin star for six consecutive years since the award in 2019, after 17 years of patient, incremental improvement. This bijou restaurant, owned by Chef Patron Laurie Gear and his wife Jacqueline, continues to evolve – Head Chef Chris Chegwin, who earned his stripes at Simon Rogan’s Linthwaite House in the Lake District, now leads the kitchen, sharing Gear’s uncluttered, ingredient-first approach.
The interior strikes a perfect balance between the building’s Grade II listed heritage and contemporary style. Recent refurbishments have introduced a sophisticated colour scheme inspired by the restaurant’s namesake, while an etched-resin screen can be drawn to reveal the kitchen and the culinary magic going on behind.
Chef Laurie Gear, drawing on experience from stages at The Fat Duck and Noma (hey, who hasn’t?), creates accomplished modern British dishes with an unwavering commitment to seasonality and local sourcing. His menus change regularly to reflect the freshest available ingredients, with lamb reared locally, venison from the Woburn Estate, and seafood delivered daily from Brixham.
The wine program is predictably excellent, heavy on French and Italian bottles plus selections from Rothschild vineyards. They’ve got bottles from everywhere from Uruguay to Croatia, with wine pairings that actually enhance the food rather than just giving you something to wash it down with.
Having overcome significant challenges, including an 18-month closure following a fire in 2008, The Artichoke has emerged stronger than ever. Now approaching a quarter century in business, they’ve collected enough accolades to need a separate trophy room – a Michelin star, three AA rosettes, and AA Restaurant of the Year for England. Bravo!
For years, Clapton existed in the shadow of its flashier East London neighbours. While Shoreditch and Dalston grabbed all the headlines and handlebar-moustached cliches, E5 just went about its business, quietly nurturing one of London’s most interesting food scenes – one built on the foundations of longstanding Turkish, Vietnamese, and Caribbean communities rather than fleeting trends.
The revival of Chatsworth Road Market in 2010 marked a turning point (just last year, it was pedestrianised), but it’s the past five years that have seen Clapton truly flourish as a dining destination. Young chefs priced out of Central London discovered not just affordable rents but a neighbourhood with soul and character, where a Michelin Bib Gourmand winner can sit comfortably alongside family-run cafés that have been here for decades.
What makes Clapton special is how it’s balanced its growth with community preservation. The Chatsworth Road Traders & Residents Association actively works to prevent displacement whilst fostering new business, creating that rare London phenomenon: a genuinely diverse dining scene where a £5 bánh mì shop thrives alongside natural wine bars.
Getting here couldn’t be simpler (hmm, perhaps that’s over stating it). Clapton Station sits on the Overground’s Weaver line, with trains to Liverpool Street taking between 10 and 20 minutes depending on the service. The 106, 253 and 254 buses connect to surrounding areas, whilst new segregated cycle lanes make it a breezy 20-minute bike ride from Shoreditch.
Today, we’re checking out the very best of Clapton’s dining scene. With that in mind, here are the best restaurants in Clapton.
Mambow, Lower Clapton Road
Ideal for modern Malaysian cooking that’s earned a Michelin Bib Gourmand…
Lee trained at Le Cordon Bleu and worked in kitchens across Italy, including Michelin-starred Pashàn in Puglia. Now she draws on that experience and her Peranakan heritage to create a monthly-changing menu focused on Malaysian street food culture, with standards sky-high without diners paying Mayfair prices.
The current menu showcases Lee’s continuing evolution as a chef, with dishes that demonstrate the implicit, astonishing balance of Malaysian dishes, but with the odd global technique and British ingredient thrown in to keep things interesting and ground the restaurant in Clapton rather than KL.
The umai presents Sarawak-style cured fish with tamarind granita and chive oil, whilst the octopus terrine (such a satisfying slice, visually) comes with green tomato sambal and a rasping green Sichuan pepper vinaigrette. These aren’t phoned-in versions of Malaysian classics because of sourcing or importing issues, but complex compositions that make total sense.
The sambal skate wing is a current highlight, the fish grilled and stuffed with signature sambal then wrapped in banana leaf and grilled. Open that leaf up like a present, and revel in the aromatic steam. The vegetable dishes show similar ambition. We’d go as far to say that the newly-introduced gulai lemak pucuk – rainbow chard coconut curry with tamarind and makrut lime glazed tempeh – was the best thing we’ve eaten here. So complex, so well-balanced. And at £17, fine value too…
Wipeable stainless steel tables bring a little hawker centre energy, though you’d be hard pressed to find a pandan tequila with grapefruit soda at Gurney Drive, I suppose. There’s a pleasing, predominantly natural wine list too, with the chilled reds (our favourite, the Mencía from Bodega La Senda) going particularly well with those coconut-based curries.
Whichever way you play it, it’s almost obligatory to end with the caramelised cassava cake and toasted jasmine ice cream; a signature that doesn’t leave the menu.
Reservations are essential, especially for weekend slots.
Ideal for an idiosyncratic weekend brunch that more than justifies the queue…
Hackney siblings Amirah and Feroz opened Bake Street in 2015, transforming this compact Evering Road café into one of Clapton’s most devoted followings. The formula is straightforward: exceptional coffee and baked goods Tuesday through Friday, then an expanded weekend menu (Wednesday through Sunday, 11am-3pm) that brings the crowds.
The Nashville hot chicken bun has become something of a local legend. Fried chicken arrives with the requisite crunch, a slice of American cheese melting over the top, doused in tangy, spicy mayo that cuts through the richness. It’s served on a brioche bun soft enough to absorb all that flavour without disintegrating. At around £10-12, it’s the kind of dish that makes queuing worthwhile.
Images via Bake Street Facebook
The smash burger runs it close for signature status. Beef patty with pickles, shallots, Umon’s ketchup and French’s mustard on brioche gets serious caramelisation from the flat-top griddle, edges crispy and lacy, centre still juicy.
Weekend specials rotate but tend towards similarly punchy flavours. Lamb birria tacos have become a regular fixture, the twice-cooked meat pulled tender and served with consommé for dunking.
Don’t leave without trying Amirah’s baking. The crème brûlée cookie – crisp caramelised exterior giving way to a soft, crème pat centre – has its own dedicated fanbase. Come back for their soft-serve which changes with what’s ripe – think mango come peak alphonso season. Coffee comes from Climpson and Sons, whilst teas come from Chash and Novus.
The setup won’t suit everyone. There’s no indoor seating, just a handful of outdoor tables. No reservations. No shelter if the weather turns. The Kitchen cooks just Wednesday through Sunday, 11am-3pm. But these limitations have only added to Bake Street’s appeal, separating the chaff from the wheat and the bores from the true believers. We count ourselves very much in the latter camp.
Ideal for Italian cooking in London’s most photogenic new dining room…
In May of 2023, the team behind Juliet’s Quality Foods joined forces with chef Giuseppe Belvedere (ex-Brawn and Bright) to transform a 1960s greasy spoon into Leo’s. In just three years, it’s become the kind of place that makes you want to move to Clapton, just to enjoy the convenience of the inclusive 9am to 10pm opening, and all the different possibilities of meal that those hours bring.
The preserved mid-century interior is a design magazine’s dream: terrazzo floors, wood-panelled walls, vintage vermouth posters, and a back dining room dominated by a wood-fired hearth beneath a dramatic skylight. Every detail feels considered, but perhaps without anyone being too precious about it. It’s suave but soothing.
Belvedere brings his Sardinian background to a menu that changes with the seasons but features certain constants. The saffron supplì showcases textbook technique with molten centres, crisp shells, and that hit of saffron making them distinctly theirs. But when it’s on, the riso al salto is even better. Arriving as a crispy, bronzed puck of risotto rice, a recent iteration was anointed with a taleggio fonduta so funky that it divided the crowd.
The fettuccine with duck ragù has already become a fixture for regulars who know what they want before they’ve even sat down, though such a myopic view on the pasta courses would mean missing out on a beautiful tranche of turbot or brill, cooked in the wood fire in the dining room hearth. It’s served with nothing more than a simple tomato salad. Whole fish are an ever present staple of the dinner menu, usually slowly roasted and served with a sauce made from their bones, olive oil and lemon. To us, it’s the epitome of simple cooking that celebrates the best ingredients about.
Operating as an all-day spot, Leo’s is open for breakfast and lunch from 9am-3pm, Wednesday through to Sunday. You can drop in for Italian coffee culture and boiled eggs, anchovy butter and soldiers for breakfast, then take a little break, before returning to the cafe for an unfussy Italian staple like lasagne for lunch, then back again for dinner for something broader.
Sunday’s six-course set lunch at £42 works particularly well for families, especially when the weather cooperates and kids can spill out into the back garden. The wine list leans heavily Italian, showcasing natural producers like Nino Barraco alongside more classical options. Unsurprisingly, the bar does a serious line in Negroni, with the Sbagliato a highlight. It’s impossible not to order a second.
Ideal for Southern Italian cooking from an ex-Manteca chef…
The newest arrival to Clapton’s Italian contingent shows that good things happen when serious restaurant people decide to have some fun. Elephant Hackney, a collaboration between Rum Kitchen co-founder Stevie Thomas and ex-Manteca chef Francesco Sarvonio, has only been open for six months or so, but it’s already hit its stride.
Taking over a Victorian pub on Lower Clapton Road (you’ll notice a theme building here), the duo have created something unexpectedly lighthearted and frivolous-feeling. That mood isn’t harmed by the dining room’s centrepiece; a 25-year-old skylight salvaged from an East End cinema that casts theatrical light across the space. The southern Italian menu delivers on all that sunny promise.
Sarvonio’s Neapolitan pizzas come with leopard-spotted crusts and just the right amount of chew. Do be warned; they’re a touch smaller than your usual pizzeria. Not to worry; it’s a fine excuse to supplement your order with the superb ox cheek croquettes with anchovy mayonnaise, which show emphatically that this isn’t just another pizza joint. The ziti Genovese ragù, sweet with slow-cooked onions, is comfort food, sure, but it also requires a judicious hand with the caramelising, and pinpoint seasoning to ensure it doesn’t end up too sweet. It’s such a good bowl.
A Hackney restaurant with a growing cult following needs a signature drink to stand out. The Elephant knows this, and they’ve partnered with Climpson and Sons for a custom espresso blend that goes into what might be East’s best espresso martini. There’s also Grolsch on tap, served in frosty glasses and smelling curiously, as it always seems to, of ganja.
Ideal for natural wine and whoever’s cooking in the kitchen this month…
When P Franco closed in spring of 2023, devastated regulars launched a crowdfunding campaign to bring it back. The result is 107 Wine Shop & Bar, which reopened just three months later, and seems to be going down just as well as the original. Which is really saying something…
It’s the same tiny space beneath half-Chinese, half-royal blue signage, same communal wooden table for 15, same shelves groaning with natural wine,and same (and, indeed, ever changing) rotating chef residencies. Every six months, a new chef completely reimagines the food offering. Current resident Ziggy Hampton (previously of Bright and Coombeshead Farm) is cooking Italian and French-influenced food with a focus on regenerative sourcing – think charcuterie, fresh pastas, seasonal salads and slow braises. His residency runs until April 2026, at which point, as has always been the case, the chef will change again. That’s the whole point.
Though it differs by chef, small plates run around £5 to £15 here, designed for sharing whilst you work through bottles of whatever the staff are excited about that day. The wine selection focuses on small European producers, many of whom the owners visit personally. This direct relationship approach keeps prices reasonable and bottles novel and exciting.
Operating Thursday-Sunday from 5pm with no reservations, 107 captures what makes Clapton special. Turn up, squeeze in where you can, prepare to make new friends and discover new drops. That’s what it’s all about.
Ideal for Vietnamese home cooking from Mama Hai herself…
Only open Thursday, Friday and Saturday night, nabbing a seat at this five-table Vietnamese restaurant requires a little patience or an uncivilised dinner time. But Hai Cafe rewards those concessions handsomely.
Run by Mama Hai from Hai Duong in Vietnam’s north, this compact spot does a splendid line in Vietnamese homestyle cooking. Everything is made from scratch. Mama Hai prepares all her bases weekly, sources produce from New Spitalfields Market at dawn, and adds Vietnamese twists to British ingredients when the originals aren’t available.
The fresh summer rolls are textbook examples of a much-murdered classic. Here, they’re bouncy and pert, their duo of dipping sauces suave and punchy rather than cloying. Even better is the signature ‘bun bo Hai’, a gentle twist on Central Vietnamese staple bun bo Hue that features three cuts of beef, each simmered diligently until tender and giving. The broth boasts that much-needed, low slung thrum of shrimp paste, anchoring the whole thing in umami funk. Coming in a bowl deep enough to drown in, it’s yours for £17. They also do a fine pho, which features in our roundup of the best pho in London, incidentally.
The BYOB policy with modest corkage (£3 for the table) keeps costs down further. Clapton is so lucky to have Hai Cafe.
Ideal for communal dining over handmade dumplings…
My Neighbours The Dumplings has been bringing strangers together over baskets of shumai since 2016. Soon to enter its second decade on this stacked strip (and now with a second, keenly-reviewed outpost in Victoria Park), the local favourite seamlessly evolved from pop-up to permanent fixture, all while keeping the community spirit that made it special. The sharing tables certainly help…
The hanging lanterns and laundry cultivates an atmosphere somewhere between Beijing hutong and East London warehouse party, and the communal benches encourage a pleasing boisterousness in line with both. Handmade dumplings at laughably low prices justify any wait (sometimes, admittedly, an hour or more) for a table should you choose to walk-in, though the restaurant has started taking reservations recently.
The prawn shumai and crispy wontons lead the charge at £6.90 and £7.50 for 4 and 5 pieces respectively. For the quality lurking under the cover lid, that’s some serious value. But despite the restaurant name, it’s not all about the dumplings here. A must try is the signature turnip cake – always cooked crispy and topped with a soft boiled egg, crispy Lap Cheong and a good dollop of herby mayo. It’s a textural treasure and fine brunch if you’re up late and the midday opening signals your first meal of the day.
Don’t sleep on the cold small plates, either; here is a smacked cucumber several notches more accomplished than the ubiquitous versions on the high street. There’s also a perky cured trout number, dressed in julienned kohlrabi, chilli and lime. Finally, if they’re on the menu, order the chocolate dumplings – warm, melting dark chocolate in a crispy pastry shell, they’re served with tea ice cream and salted caramel. You won’t be sorry.
Weekend waits can stretch, but turnover stays relatively quick. Go midweek if you can, or resign yourself to a drink at one of the bars nearby whilst waiting.
Ideal for NYC-style pizza from the brand that started in a Clapton backyard…
Before Yard Sale Pizza became a London mini-chain, it was just a couple of mates making pizzas in a Clapton backyard. The original at 105 Lower Clapton Road (next door to 107 from a few paragraphs previous), which opened back in 2014, maintains a certain special status. This is where Macaulay Culkin chose to launch his Pizza Underground band, after all.
Their NYC-adjacent pizzas use 48-hour cold-fermented dough, creating light, foldable crusts that helped spark London’s American pizza renaissance. The Holy Pepperoni with hot honey remains the signature order, though the Notorious P.I.E does the whole vodka sauce thing better than most. Both (and all the pizzas here) are available as either 12 or 18 inchers, the former feeds one, the latter two.
What sets the original apart from other locations is the inclusive feel of the place. Staff know regulars by name, the playlist hasn’t been corporately approved, and there’s still something gloriously DIY about the whole operation. They do three excellent vegan options without fanfare, too, and the soft serve is worth saving room for. This is unfussy neighbourhood pizza done exactly right, from people who clearly still care about every pie coming out of the oven.
Ideal for jerk chicken from an oil drum on the pavement…
The yellow shopfront is visible from the end of the road, sure, but you’ll smell People’s Choice before you see it. Over on Clapton’s Chatsworth Road, it’s the smoke signals you’ll sense first, as they lick up from a traditional jerk drum that stands proudly on the pavement outfront. It’s the best kind of marketing, make no mistake, bolstered by owner Lenny’s infectious click-clacking of the tongs.
The headlining jerk chicken (just £9 for a large portion, including rice, cabbage and plantain) is just the right balance of charred and tender, with a scotch bonnet heat that builds, then undulates, rather than attacks. There’s ackee and saltfish, and curry goat too, both exemplary versions.
Saturday is the big day here, when the queue often snakes down the road. It’s takeaway only, but on good, bright days, customers eat on the pavement, creating impromptu community gatherings that capture what Chatsworth Road is about. Generous portions, fair prices, and flavours that don’t compromise, this is what it’s all about.
Ideal for Japanese small plates done with precision…
In a neighbourhood that can occasionally favour substance over style, Uchi offers both. This Clarence Road spot brings precise sushi preparation and creative small plates to Clapton, but at prices that won’t require remortgaging your flat.
What began as a responsibly-sourced sushi delivery service has evolved into one of Hackney’s most serene dining experiences. Step through the noren curtains into a warmly lit space with low traditional seating where you’re encouraged to swap your shoes for slippers at the door. It’s the kind of thoughtful detail that transforms dinner into something approaching ritual.
Uchi opens up as a café (@uchibake ) in the mornings and lunch time, 8am through to 4pm, serving delicious cakes and sandos. Then in the evening it becomes one of our go to place for Japanese fare in London. The restaurant proper is open Thursday through to Monday with variable hours.
The menu spans the izakaya classics: robata-grilled skewers, karaage chicken, vegetable tempura, and an extensive sushi selection. The hijiki seaweed salad with sweet beancurd delivers that pleasantly briny funk that marks proper Japanese home cooking, whilst the sashimi arrives at precisely the right temperature. More inventive touches appear in the form of eryngii mushroom nigiri and spinach nigiri with black rice, showing Uchi takes its vegetarian options seriously. They are, in fact, the best bites we’ve had here.
The soft shell crab rolls showcase the kitchen’s technical skill, though it’s the daily specials – chalked on a lattice board – where things get particularly interesting. The fish quality is consistently good rather than museum-piece spectacular, but that misses the point of what Uchi does well: unfussy neighbourhood Japanese cooking executed with care and without fanfare.
Premium sake grades run from standard honjozo (£7) through to junmai daiginjo (£15), whilst the umeshu mojito makes a refreshing alternative. Asahi on tap comes cold in the kind of beer glasses made for cheersing with. Kanpai
Uchi operates without the marketing bluster of newer openings. It’s simply, quietly, reliably excellent – exactly what lovely Clapton deserves.
The Vietnamese capital, Hanoi. At once chaotic and cerebral, sophisticated and elemental, ribald and refined, urbane and innocent, has got to be one of the most beguiling cities on the planet, whichever adjectives and dichotomies you wish to throw at it.
Eating here often presents a similar sense of contrast. Sure, there are fancy, five star (and now Michelin-starred) restaurants, refining and reimagining dishes that have remained resolutely the same for generations. And yes, some of these restaurants are interesting, thought-provoking places to dine.
But the truly elite level food in the Vietnamese capital is of course found at street level, hunched on a plastic blue stool over some steaming noodles, or leaning against a precariously parked xe om, manipulating a spoon and chopsticks with grace, your bowl teetering precariously on the saddle.
This is where the magic happens, where family recipes have seen their own kind of refinement throughout the years, where outside influences and external forces have made their mark on the food before being resoundingly, resolutely defeated, with only the best bits left over and assimilated.
Please note that prices for street food in Hanoi fluctuate, owing to supply and demand, availability of ingredients and the whim of the owner. That said, you’ll eat very well here for very little. Even the more ‘premium’ meals on our list – a full spread of dishes plus beers – won’t cost more than £10 each.
Here’s a brief rundown of our pricing key…
đ – under 33’000đ (£1) a portion
đđ – under 66’000đ (£2) a portion
đđđ – under 99’000đ (£3) a portion
đđđđ – over 100’000đ (£3) a portion
Opening & Closing Times
The vast majority of the places on our list open early for breakfast and close once they’ve sold out, usually sometime in the mid-afternoon, but often with a meandering presence throughout the day.
Several places on the IDEAL 22 are more popular for dinner or for late night eats – we’ll say explicitly when that’s the case – otherwise, assume that the opening hours are from around 7am to 4pm. All that said, you’ll still sometimes find a stall or shophouse sporadically shut for no broadcast reason. Fortunately, plenty of these restaurants are within walking distance of one another, so if you find one closed, it’s on to the next one!
None of the places on our list take reservations or can be booked in advance, or even have a website, for that matter. If it’s likely you’ll queue, again, we’ll mention it explicitly.
Most of the places on our list operate on a pull-up-a-stool system, where you’ll be perched at a low-slung table or something just a little more upright, but without a backrest. Only Cha Ca Thang Long, Pho Ly Quoc Su, Mr Bay Mien Tay and Quan An Ngon are more fully-fledged restaurants; they have proper dining chairs with a backrest, larger tables, and table service. You can take a little more time at these three, as you can at Chim Quay Bit Tet and Bit Tet Ngoc Hieu, where it’s expected that you’ll settle in for a few beers and a bit of a session.
Anyway, you get the picture; things are a little unpredictable price and timing wise, but you are pretty much guaranteed an amazing meal if you stick around with us. So, once again, here are our IDEAL 22 places to eat the best street food in Hanoi.
Map Of The Best Street Food Spots In Hanoi
Banh Mi Pate, 11 Hang Ca, Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter)
Ideal for a textbook version of Vietnam’s world famous filled baguette…
If you’re looking for one of the best banh mi spots in Hanoi, then head to Hang Ca street and look for the throng of tourists collected under a neon ‘A LOAF OF SMILES’ sign, clutching their branded Banh Mi 25 sarnies.
Then, ignore that bricks and mortar operation, and head down the road and turn right, to a more randomly cobbled together collection of street side stools, a floor fan and a tarpaulin roof, and look for the words Banh My Pate. You have found the place.
Indeed, Banh Mi Pate at 11 Hang Ca, just yards from the supremely popular but ultimately disappointing Banh Mi 25 (sweet, weirdly ‘Western’ in flavour), actually serves a much better banh mi. The baguette here boasts just the right level of crisp exterior and giving centre, and has been hollowed out just a little rather than being completely gutted ‘till it’s a shell of its former self.
All of this bread chat is in the name of letting the eponymous pate (number 4 on the menu) do the proper talking. To us, this particular order – we repeat; number 4 – filled generously with lots of that pate, some salty af pork floss, some pickles, coriander and hot sauce, is the city’s best sandwich. And we’ve eaten a lot of them.
Best enjoyed in the mid-morning when the baguettes are crisp and fresh and the pre-work motorbike rush hour has dissipated, this is one to savour in the coffee shop opposite, on a low slung stool, with a thick, sweet iced coffee. Heaven.
Bun Bo Nam Bo, 47 Tran Quoc Toan, Hai Ba Trung District
Ideal for crispy pork over sweet, spicy noodles, all served with a mountain of interesting herbs…
There are few prettier streets in Hanoi than Tran Quoc Toan, a little sidestreet that peels off the always jammed Ba Trieu thoroughfare to reveal a leafy promenade with plenty of cute coffee shops, banh mi stalls and noodle joints.
We’ve come to this attractive corner of the so-called French Quarter for the latter, to Bun Bo Nam Bo at 47 Tran Quoc Toan. Weirdly, we’ve not come for the headlining dish – the admittedly excellent South Vietnamese noodle stir-fry/salad bun bo nam bo. Instead, we’re pitching up for the restaurant’s other speciality; hu tieu, which is utterly superb here.
A semi-dry noodle dish in a sweet, salty, peanut-heavy broth, the hu tieu here is topped with the crispiest of deep-fried pork and a good handful of crispy shallots. Alongside, a bowl of herbs – some bitter, some refreshing, with nettles, green and purple perilla leaf, lettuce and more – is all there to be mixed through the bowl and to cradle some of that dressing.
God, it’s good, and lifted to even dizzier heights still by a spritz of calamansi lime. Gratis, never-ending iced jasmine tea is the perfect accompaniment, but they do serve beer if you’ve come to be uncouth.
This place is wildly popular with the lunch break crowd, with office workers piling in between midday and 1pm. During this hour, you might have to wait for ten minutes or so to get seated. Fortunately, there are two floors and plenty more hours in the day that this shophouse is open. The particularly stern hostess at number 47, taking payments and dishing out a few insults, is all part of the fun.
Cha Ca Thang Long, 6B Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter)
Ideal for turmeric marinated fish, fried at the table…
Within Hanoi’s tangle of old streets lays a place so revered that it has attained an almost mystical status. Cha Ca La Vong, on Cha Ca street – named after the famous dish – has been serving the same dish, and only that dish, for hundreds of years.
Catfish marinated in turmeric arrives at your table in a frying pan, sizzling away. You tend to it lovingly until it’s cooked before assembling yourself a bowl of cold, sour noodles, loads of fresh herbs and a pokey, dangerous looking fish sauce. Pop a piece of fish in there and prepare for ambrosia. Flavours are elegant and sophisticated, and just the right side of unusual. The home of the dish, Cha Ca La Vong often full to the rafters and obviously booking is not an option in a place of such heritage, but if you can get a seat, you must.
But – even though it is good – we’re not eating at Cha Ca La Vong in our rundown of Hanoi’s best places to eat street food. Instead, we’re heading round the corner, to Cha Ca Thang Long, which we think does an even better version, the catfish just that little bit plumper, the dill fresher and grassier, the dish just a touch more captivating, and the space more welcoming.
Cha ca, wherever you’re having it, is usually accompanied by a simple dipping sauce of fish sauce, sugar, lime and sliced red chilli, but for those who enjoy the funky flavours of fermented fish, make sure to request a side of mam tom, a traditional Vietnamese dipping sauce made from fermented shrimp paste. It is known for its strong, pungent aroma and distinctive, salty flavour. Not obligatorily served to foreigners, you’ll need to request this one especially, but the good folk at Cha Ca Thang Long will be impressed that you did.
This one is best for dinner, with a few friends and a few bottles of Bia Hanoi (really, Saigon tastes a little nicer to us, but when in Rome) accompanying the spread. That spread costs around 200’000đ for two people. For that, the equivalent of £6, you get the fish and all its re-upable accouterments, and a real sense of a special occasion when the sizzling pan hits the table.
Be warned (or, perhaps, be spoiled); Duong Thanh street has three different outposts of this restaurant, all with the same name and run by the same family. 6B just feels like the most convivial and spacious of the three to us.
Banh Cuon Ba Hoanh, 66 To Hien Thanh, Hai Ba Trung District
Ideal for some of the most supremely delicate steamed rice rolls in the city…
The roads off key Hai Ba Trung thoroughfare Ba Trieu are some of Hanoi’s most essential for street food, and your options for lunch can feel pretty much limitless in this part of town. But reliably, resolutely, locals make a beeline for Ba Hoanh’s increasingly sprawling operation on To Hien Thanh when hunger or boredom pushes them to do so.
Here the banh cuon is the texture of premium Vietnamese silk, spread so thinly across the steaming cloth that it becomes almost translucent, barely there, yet somehow holding together as it’s skilfully peeled off and filled with minced pork and wood ear mushrooms.
The ratio is spot on – there’s just enough filling to provide substance without overwhelming the delicate rice paper, which is, of course, the main present rather than just the gift wrapper. The accompanying Vietnamese cha lua is particularly good, too – bouncy, porcine and with just a hint of white pepper.
What’s intriguing about Ba Hoanh is the dipping sauce; sweet, sour and salty, as it should be, but more soup-sized than normal, and with the unmistakable grilled pork belly bits from a bun cha bobbing around in there. We soon realise it’s a byproduct of the fact this banh cuon slinger also sells bun cha, which is unusual for Hanoi’s street food scene, where a myopic single-dish focus is typically a mark of quality. They also do bun rieu cua here. Both are excellent, flying in the face of conventional wisdom. But we’re not arguing.
Neither are Ba Hoanh’s legions of fans. The place has expanded over the years, now boasting a second dining room (complete with murky fish tanks at the back) to accommodate the constant flow of customers.
This is breakfast food at its finest, best enjoyed mid-morning when fresh batches are still being produced and the day hasn’t yet heated up. The space might have grown, but the quality hasn’t wavered.
Mr Bay Mien Tay, 79 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter)
Ideal for crispy, crackling banh xeo in the heart of the Old Quarter…
Banh xeo – the ultimate onomatopoeic dish of crisp, golden rice flour pancakes that sizzle in the pan and crackle as you fold them – might hail from central Vietnam, but Mr Bảy has been serving up an exemplary version in the Old Quarter for the best part of a decade.
This is a rare, rare thing in Hanoi, where it’s tough to find a bonafide street food version of banh xeo (the majority are tepid renditions in generic Vietnamese dining rooms called things like Green Mango or Lotus Flower).
The name here translates as ‘Mr Seven from the Southwest’, and true to his Mekong Delta roots, Bay has nailed his local dish. The pancake itself achieves that ideal state of being paper-thin yet somehow structurally sound, its edges lacy and shatteringly crisp from the hot sizzle, and all pliable enough to fold around its filling of poached pork, baby prawns and bean sprouts.
Unlike those tourist-oriented spots in Hanoi that serve their banh xeo with a heavy hand on the turmeric (a sleight of hand that results in pancakes that look impressive but taste muddy), Mr Bay’s version is restrained, allowing the sweetness of the prawns and the salty depth of the pork to come through.
The real joy here is in the assembly, of course – tearing off a piece of the crispy pancake, wrapping it in fresh lettuce and herbs (loads of perilla, Vietnamese coriander and mint, lettuce), before dunking the whole parcel in the house nuoc mam.
Another nod to Mr Bay’s heritage are the excellent grilled baby catfish skewers – smoky, charred whole fish (straightened and skewered) that taste unmistakably of the Mekong, bitter and a little earthy, sure, but beguiling too. They’re a perfect precursor to the banh xeo, adding another layer to what becomes a proper spread.
The tight little dining room doesn’t spill out onto Hang Dieu street – that would result in accidents on what is a busy, chaotic street – and things are kept cosy and contained. Service is swift, and whilst the menu does extend beyond banh xeo to include a few other southern specialities, the pancakes and those catfish skewers are unequivocally what you’re here for.
Xoi Yen, 35B Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter)
Ideal for the ultimate Vietnamese comfort food of sticky rice and toppings…
Located just a minute or two from Hoan Kiem lake, Xoi Yen is a culinary institution in the city, renowned for its variety of sticky rice dishes (xoi), which are topped with a range of savoury ingredients such as shredded chicken, braised pork belly pieces, pork floss, peanuts, Chinese sausage, hard boiled eggs, and pate. A grated ball of cooked, compressed mung bean seeds tops every bowl.
Xoi Yen is the city’s most popular spot for xoi, and is packed out from breakfast to late-night, offering a taste of traditional Vietnamese comfort food that fills you up for breakfast or soaks up the liquor late at night. Or both; we’ve been known to bookend a day with the dish.
The sticky rice here is cooked to perfection, with a slightly chewy texture that makes it easy to eat with your hands – as it should be – and forms the anchor for the array of customisable treats. Though you could order your sticky rice ‘tat ca’ (with everything), we prefer a more carefully curated collection, usually of pate, Chinese sausage and egg. A zigzag of the ubiquitous Vietnamese chilli sauce condiment Chin Su, viscous, sweet and spicy, sends everything on its way.
Do be aware that this corner of Nguyen Huu Huan street happens to have not one but two of the best purveyors in town; right next to each other. Rumour has it that one family run shop fractured into two following an affair between husband and sister in law. Whichever one you choose to side with, it’s guaranteed to be delicious, but we prefer the one at 35B. Look for a big black and yellow sign; ‘Xoi Yen’.
Quan Mien Luon Phuc, 152 Lac Trung, Hai Ba Trung District
Ideal for crispy eel noodles…
Mien Luon is a traditional Hanoian dish that combines humble ingredients to glorious effect. Here mien – slightly chewy, sticky glass noodles made from mung bean starch – sit beneath a tangle of luon (river eels), all crunchy and alluring from a deep, hard fry. Also in the bowl, positioned off to one side in case you’d prefer not to go green, is a heap of baby perilla leaves, which bring their unique fuzzy bitterness to the party, and some gently picked cucumbers.
The dish is often served with a clear, light broth (this one is called mien luon nuoc, which means water) made from eel bones, or in a dry version (mien luon tron), where the noodles and eel are to be mixed with a rich, spicy dressing.
For us, going dry results in the best version of this texturally invigorating dish. At Quan Mien Luon Phuc on the outskirts of the Hai Ba Trung district, you’ll find one of the city’s most exemplary versions. Sure, you’ll have to travel into more residential Hanoi for a taste, but it’s well worth the effort. Pile on a good scoop of the restaurant’s homemade chilli sauce; it lifts and lightens the whole thing. Now, it’s time to get crunching.
Pho Ly Quoc Su, 10 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter)
Ideal for the best beef noodle soup in the city (and, therefore, by rights, the world)…
Congratulations! You got this far through our rundown of the best street food in Hanoi without questioning when we were going to get to the headliner. Well, that time has arrived; it’s time to eat Hanoi-style beef pho.
You might have to wait a while or – heaven forbid – share your fourtop with some other tourists at Pho Ly Quoc Su for a bowl of the good stuff, but the service is brusque and efficient, and the chefs (visible through a glass partition constantly ladelling bowls of the good stuff) work quickly.
Once you’ve settled in, ordering is easy, with menus boasting English translations placed under the glass surface of every table, visible to all. Order the tai gau version – the move for those in the know – which sees fatty, long-braised brisket and slices of raw beef sharing the bowl.
Here, the brisket is thinly sliced and tender, with its mellow, yellow fat gently melting into the broth, causing those all-important globules to dapple the soup’s service. An unctuous mouthfeel awaits. The hot broth half cooks the raw slices, leaving them beautifully tender.
That broth itself is on the lighter side, just a little cloudy (as it should be), and refreshing, savoury and obscenely moreish. The rice noodles are slippery and have the right bite, as in, not much bite at all. Indeed, many a pho in the UK has been ruined by al dente noodles, but not so here.
Add a little of Pho LQS’s homemade chilli sauce and a dash of the liquid from their pickled garlic, and luxuriate in an absolutely exemplary version of the national dish. Phwoar.
Do be warned (this time, really be warned); Pho Ly Quoc Su has many branches in Hanoi, of which all but three are imitators, rather than sanctioned franchises. Don’t be fooled by the bright orange frontage you’ll occasionally see across the city; it’s at number 10 on actual, genuine Ly Quoc Su street in the Old Quarter that you’ll find the legit Pho Ly Quoc Su restaurant.
During busier hours (between around 11am and 2pm) you might have to wait for ten minutes or so to get seated.
Pho Gia Truyen Bat Dan, 49 Bat Dan, Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter)
Ideal for – hang on – an even better beef noodle soup (why not have both?)…
All of those superlatives aside, Pho Ly Quoc Su might not even be the finest beef noodle soup in Ha Noi. That honour – and this is something of a rare consensus, it should be said – is found on Bat Dan street, at number 49.
You won’t miss it, as the snaking queue of hungry locals stands testament to the quality of the bowls within this little family run shop. Service is cursory on a good day, and you’ll need to juggle a boiling hot bowl of soup while you jostle for a stool, but genuinely, honestly and with truth, it is worth it.
You’ll see the beef briskets hanging in the doorframe (there is no window here – the shophouse opens fully out onto the street), their hulking frames swaying enticingly on their hooks, their fat shimmering enticingly. There are only three options; tai, tai nam or chin, which is rare beef, rare beef and braised flank, and braised brisket, respectively.
Our heart lies in the latter camp with the pho bo chin, all to get a taste of those swinging briskets. It’s a deeper, richer broth than Pho LQS, perhaps better suited to Hanoi’s surprisingly chilly winters, whilst the one at Ly Quoc Su is more of a summery affair. You could, of course, have both in a single sitting – Bat Dan is only just round the corner from Ly Quoc Su.
Enjoy with quay – the only accompaniment to proper pho – which is, in taste, akin to a savoury donut, and in appearance a dog bone. It takes on the flavour of the soup perfectly.
Expect to queue here, though you shouldn’t be waiting more than around 20 minutes, even during busy times.
Banh Tom Ho Tay, Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho (West Lake)
Ideal for pillowy, sweet shrimp cakes with lakeside views…
Banh Tom is a traditional Vietnamese seafood dish that originates in Hanoi. It’s a simple thing; fresh, pink, pert shell-on prawns are suspended in a sweet potato batter before the whole thing is deep fried. Served alongside is the obligatory dipping sauce and plate of fresh herbs, of course, the latter in this instance designed for wrapping up the sweet, delicious cakes for a one-bite-wonder situation.
The home of these shrimp cakes – fritters, really – is West Lake, Hanoi’s largest with a whopping 17km circumference. On bright, clear days when the lake’s waters lap, taking up position on one of the many, many cafe deckchairs that line the lake can feel very much like a day out at the seaside. And what better snack to enjoy in such environs than banh tom?
On route to Dang Thai Mai street, where you’ll find those lakeside deck chairs, you’ll see banh tom purveyors with elaborate displays of their shrimp cakes piled high pyramidically. Order a few to takeaway for a sunset dinner with a view, because this is one hell of a view across the water, the twinkling lights of Hanoi city reflecting on West Lake’s shimmering waters.
Pho Ga Nguyet, 5B Phu Doan, Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter)
Ideal for chicken pho in salad form…
Light, herbaceous, restorative chicken pho in Hanoi is its own thing, a world away from the beef version’s assertive savouriness and rich mouthfeel. In fact, as a broad rule, if a shophouse or stall serves both chicken and beef pho, it’s fair to assume that neither is the greatest rendition, the two disciplines not interchangeable by any means.
Just outside of the Old Quarter proper, on Phu Doan, a stretch of road defined by garages and motorbike repairs, you’ll find one of Hanoi’s best versions of chicken pho at Pho Ga Nguyet.
Two key moves with your order here; request the dark chicken meat, which is so much more flavourful (the white breast meat is automatically allocated to non-Viets) and order the dish ‘tron’ – or dry. That’s where Pho Ga Nguyet really excels, the standard noodle soup turned into a gorgeous noodle salad, with a chicken fat and soy sauce spiked dressing that coats every damn noodle strand.
The main man here, wielding the cleaver all evening in the shophouse’s entrance, speaks a little English, and is a charming presence. Owing to the shophouse’s daytime operations fixing motorbikes and revving engines, Pho Ga Nguyet is an evening only affair.
During the dinner rush (between 6pm and around 7:30pm), you might have to wait five minutes to get a seat.
Bun Rieu Cua, 11 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter)
Ideal for a seriously refreshing bowl of crab and tomato noodle soup…
Bun rieu cua is something of a hidden gem in the Vietnamese culinary repertoire, at least in the UK. This noodle soup, again hailing from Hanoi, features a rust-coloured, tomato-based broth that hums with the savoury essence of freshwater crab roe, creating a unique, umami-heavy aromatic foundation.
The soup is typically garnished with a variety of fresh herbs, such as perilla and coriander, twists of shredded banana blossom, and deep-fried tofu. Cubes of congealed pig’s blood and snails also sometimes feature – both a welcome added treat, for sure.
The noodles used are thin rice vermicelli, which absorb the broth beautifully. The usual customisation is encouraged, with lime wedges, chilli sauce and shrimp paste all available for the diner to get busy with.
It’s such a refreshing bowl, cleansing and rehydrating on the most humid of Hanoi days. In the corridor-like space of 11 Hang Bac in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, arguably the best bowl in the city is served.
Chim Quay Bit Tet, 20 Hang Giay, Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter)
Ideal for bronzed and burnished whole barbecued pigeon and lots and lots of fresh beer…
Just yards from Hanoi’s famous Bia Hoi Corner, where you can enjoy an aperitif and digestiv, Chim Quay Bit Tet serves glazed, barbecued whole pigeons, hacked into bite size pieces and served in a mound, head, tail and all, with a spicy salt and calamansi lime dip. This is one to attack with your hands, on a low slung stool, with several icy beers and plenty of cheersing your neighbours. There really isn’t much more to say than that.
Oh, except the deep-fried frog’s legs are excellent, too; you’ll want to order a plate of those, as well as some stir fried morning glory and a bowl of steamed rice, for a full, complementary table. The whole thing shouldn’t cost you and a friend much more than a fiver.
Ideal for Hanoi’s ultimate lunchtime dish, given a subtle twist…
You’ll smell Bun Cha 34 even before you see the commotion of diners jostling for stools on the pavement outside the premises. It’s one of Hanoi’s most singular and inviting aromas; the smell of marinated pork gently catching and caramelising on a tiny makeshift barbecue, a portable fan blowing on it, fanning the flames and spreading the enticing aroma far and wide. Catching a smell of it has been known to stop passing motorbikes in their tracks; a risky business in a city of risky road related businesses, make no mistake.
Bun cha is perhaps the quintessential Hanoi dish, a porky paradise of grilled patties and slices of marinated belly, which are charred to perfection over an open flame. The meat is then piled – always generously – in a bowl of lightly sweetened, slightly vinegary fish sauce-based broth, accompanied by a generous portion of fresh herbs and pickled squares of papaya and carrot.
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Thin rice vermicelli noodles are served alongside, allowing diners to dip them into the broth and combine with the grilled pork, which is, admittedly, pretty hard to pull off owing to bun noodles’ inherent stickiness. Fortunately, an aunty is always on hand with a pair of scissors, ready to make the whole dance easier.
The bun cha at Bun Cha 34 is distinctive in that the usual pork patties have been wrapped in wild piper leaf before being grilled, imparting a complex smokey bitterness to both the meat and the broth it rests in. The deep-fried spring rolls are awesome here too; not one bit greasy and served in a pleasing stack that you’ll demolish without a second glance.
Bun Cha 34, as is the rule for this beloved Hanoi dish, is only open for lunch. In fact, it’s incredibly rare that you’ll find bun cha served outside of lunchtime hours anywhere in the city.
Though at first glance Bun Cha 34 might look full, there’s always a corner, side table or extra stool to squeeze into.
Bun Cha Dac Kim, 1 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter)
Ideal for arguably Hanoi’s premier bun cha spot…
Another of Hanoi’s most iconic bun cha spots – arguably its most lauded and popular – isn’t far from 34, over on Hang Manh in the Old Quarter.
Here, the pork patties are comically large – almost burger size – and the plates of herbs are piled even higher than usual. Yep, though bun cha always feels like a super generous affair, everything at Bun Cha Dac Kim feels a little extra. That said, who’s complaining about massive portions when the dish is this good?
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Though Bun Cha Dac Kim might initially look full, there are a couple of floors out of view where there’s a little more dining space. Some of the adjacent coffee shops have also been known to let you pitch up with your bun cha, providing you buy a coffee or juice.
Known locally as ‘Chicken Street’ – on the map it’s Ly Van Phuc – Hanoi has a whole street dedicated to serving barbecued poultry. What could be better? On a weekend, if you have a large group, it’s one of the best places in the city to come, get loose and make merry. While it’s kinda out of the way – take a taxi to the National Stadium and work from there if you’re not on a scooter – and a little hard to find, the smell of ‘ga’ on the grill is unmissable.
You can choose between different parts of the chicken – a little thigh and a little liver is our usual vibe – and be sure to order a side of the grilled banh mi bread brushed with honey. The refreshing pickled cucumbers brought to every table are the perfect accompaniment – don’t be afraid to ask for more.
Though the temptation will of course be to head to the bottom of Chicken Street, next to the car park where everyone seems to be having the best time, we’ve found the grilled chicken served right at the entrance to Ly Van Phuc to be the best. And, to be honest, the most thoroughly cooked; it’s dark down at the end of Chicken Street and sometimes the chicken comes up looking pretty pink.
Though we realise we said ‘street food’ in the title, we’d be remiss to offer a rundown of the best places to eat street food in Hanoi without mentioning Quan An Ngon, a restaurant with air conditioning, proper upright seats with back support, and a whole host of different street food purveyors all surrounding the central dining room.
Since so many great Hanoi restaurants and shophouses specialise in a single dish, Quan An Ngon is a wonderful place to try various regional Vietnamese specialities all in one sitting. It’s an attractive, convivial space with a large central alfresco dining area illuminated by lanterns, fairy lights and an always buzzy atmosphere. The menu has English translations and the staff speak a little, too, making the restaurant a chilled out place for a decent feed. The salads here are particularly good, as is the banh xeo, a type of crispy rice pancake filled with minced pork and prawns.
Quan An Ngon is open for lunch through to dinner and beyond, closing at around 10pm. There are a couple of other branches in the French Quarter, too, which are equally as good. The group as a whole was recognised at the 2025 Asia’s Excellent Taste Awards in the Special Casual Dining category.
Banh Goi Ly Quoc Su is the kind of place you dream about long after you’ve left Hanoi. A low slung, chilled out spot slap bang in the bustling streets of the Old Quarter, this place serves up some of the best banh goi in Hanoi. Imagine a crispy, golden pastry shell stuffed with a savoury mix of minced pork, mushrooms, vermicelli and quail eggs that’s somewhere between a samosa and a Cornish pasty. If you’re in Hanoi, missing this would be a culinary crime.
Banh Cuon Gia Truyen, 14 Hang Ga, Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter)
Ideal for the most elegant expression of Vietnamese cuisine, on the street…
Vietnamese food is well known for its lightness and sophistication, and no dish better encapsulates this than banh cuon, the supremely delicate steamed rice rolls that you’ll see aunties meticulously making across the city.
On a circular surface, a silky batter of rice flour is spread into a thin layer and steamed until translucent, before being filled with a mixture of minced pork and wood ear mushrooms and rolled. It’s a mesmerising spectacle, and one whose dexterity would be impressive in a well-appointed fine dining kitchen, let alone on a street corner.
Once these rolls have been skilfully shifted onto a small plate, deep-fried shallots and fresh herbs are scattered on top. The usual nuoc cham dipping sauce seals the deal.
Interestingly, at Banh Cuon Gia Truyen, one of Hanoi’s most famous banh cuon restaurants, you can order a small spritz of water bug essence (ca cuong) in your dipping sauce, which tastes a little like bubblegum. Order a slice or two of Vietnamese pork sausage (cha lua) to go alongside.
We’d been regulars of that particular spot, Bun Cha Huong Lien, for years prior to the show, but following its broadcast and name change to ‘Obama Bun Cha’, standards – perhaps unsurprisingly – slipped.
Not to worry. Give the tour coaches unloading onto Le Van Huu a swerve and instead head directly next door for one of the best chicken noodle soups in the city, at Pho Ga Mai Anh.
This is one clean broth, totally clear and boasting a crystalline flavour not unlike a chicken consomme. Aside from tender poached chicken meat, a couple of bouncy chicken balls (snigger) and soft rice noodles, only a few slices of the green of spring onions bother the bowl. Seemingly, a judgement has been made that any other herbs would only muddy the broth. We think it’s a good shout, as Mai Anh’s chicken pho really is a celebration of that replenishing broth.
Sometimes for fun, we order a side of poached chicken to eat with our chicken pho at Pho Ga Mai Anh. It’s served with bouncy yellow skin still intact, its flesh tender and silky. A few finely julienned makrut lime leaves and a side of chilli salt and calamansi lime (to be combined) complete this feast of chicken. A tall glass of iced jasmine tea is all you need now.
Bit Tet Ngoc Hieu, 52 Le Ngoc Han, Hai Ba Trung District
Ideal for steak and chips, Vietnamese-style…
Bit tet, like banh mi, is a reflection of Vietnam’s ability to take on international influences and seamlessly assimilate them into the cuisine.
The dish is centred around a thin, semi-tender beef steak, which is marinated with a blend of soy sauce, garlic, and black pepper before being cooked in a laughably, violently hot, cow-shaped cast iron pan that doubles up as a serving dish. A silver bow-cum-hat tops the pan as it arrives at the table before the big reveal. Inside that pan, you’ll also find a sunny side up egg, a few soggy chips and perhaps a tomato, flavours mingling happily.
At Bit Tet Ngoc Hieu, alongside the classic hammered steak and spongy chips, you’ll find a ball of offaly, peppery goodness akin to a faggot in flavour. It’s what marks out this bit tet restaurant as the best in Hanoi. Mop up all of the intermingling egg yolk, meat juices and chilli sauce run-off with plenty of crisp, banh mi bread. Mop that up with icy beers. Leave happy and on foot – don’t drink and drive guys.
Though Ngoc Hieu is a little out of the city centre, there’s also a whole street (Hoe Nhai) dedicated to bit tet within walking distance of the Old Quarter. Result!
Banh Mi Pho Hue, 118 Pho Hue, Hai Ba Trung District
Ideal for prosaic, proper banh mi that’s always got a queue of motorbikes…
For us, the most simple banh mi is the best banh mi, allowing the quality of the bread, pate and cold cuts to shine. The ludicrously stacked affairs with a mixed grill’s worth of meat inside, plus mayo, three types of hot sauce, a random papaya salad and erroneous Thai basil that you’ll find in the UK? Those guys are not for us.
For a prosaic, proper banh mi whose popularity is clear from its constant queue of motorbikes, you’ll want to venture away from the Old Quarter, heading north from Hoan Kiem lake and the Old Quarter, and into one of Hai Ba Trung’s main thoroughfares, Pho Hue.
At Banh Mi Pho Hue, it’s a celebration of the simple things. The aunty’s mise en place is as follows… Stacks of warm baguettes. A massive brick of homemade pate. A few slices of Vietnamese pork loaf (essentially spam). A bowl of pork floss. Cucumber pickle. Butter. Dairylea. Chilli sauce. There’s also a pan set-up should you want to add an omelette to your banh mi.
Assemble your desired sandwich from that selection, and eat outside the shophouse leaning against a tree, because the dining area is full of parked motorbikes. Everything feels right in the world.
Ghe Hap Xuan Xuan, 37 Hang Giay, Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter)
Ideal for premium grilled seafood on stools…
On the periphery of the backpacker part of Hanoi’s Old Quarter (Bia Hoi Corner, Ta Hien, Luong Ngoc Quyen), you’ll find a few totally alfresco set-ups serving up fresh, delicious seafood late into the night.
At Ghe Hap Xuan Xuan on Hang Giay, but also all along nearby Cau Go street, you’ll see crabs, oysters, blood cockles and huge prawns all piled high on a table. Simply point at what you want, take a seat and get ready for a feast because here is where you’ll find fresh seafood being grilled over hot coals. Served simply, with a calamansi lime, MSG and chilli dipping sauce, this is fresh, cheap and oh so fun.
Make sure you order some grilled oysters topped with crispy shallots – the smokey, moody taste of the barbecue certainly does no harm to the saline richness of oysters. In fact, it’s a divine marriage. Then someone, from somewhere, will produce a cold beer as soon as you realise you’re thirsty, and it’s then that you realise you’re in heaven.
Pho Cuon Huong Mai, 25 Ngu Xa, Truc Bach, Ba Dinh District
Ideal for a final expression of pho, in Hanoi’s cutest quarter…
Pho cuon offers a unique twist on the traditional pho. Instead of the usual noodle soup, this dish features wide, uncut sheets of rice noodles that are used to wrap a variety of fresh ingredients. The rolls are typically filled with slices of stir-fried beef and fresh herbs, along with crisp lettuce and sometimes julienned vegetables such as carrots and cucumbers. These ingredients are tightly rolled into the rice noodle sheets, creating a neat and portable package ideal for being dipped in a sauce of fish sauce, lime juice, garlic, sugar, and chilli
Ngu Xa, sitting just off Hanoi’s picturesque, idyllic Truc Bach lake, is sometimes referred to as Pho Cuon street, owing to its row of restaurants specialising in the stuff. Bouncing from restaurant to restaurant, drinking beer and ordering plates of this light-as-you-like local delicacy, is one of Hanoi’s greatest nights out. We think we might just part ways here, you know, and take in the scene a while…
Ngo Dong Xuan, Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter): Known locally as ‘Street Food Alley’, Ngo Dong Xuan is as close as you’ll get to the hawker centres of Malaysia and Singapore in Hanoi, with rows of street food vendors doing their thing here, all in tropical storm-proof surrounds. The aforementioned bun cha, banh tom and banh mi are all found here, as well as a good version of bun oc – snail noodles.
For something a little different, why not check out our rundown of the best pizza in Hanoi next?
