The city of Winchester wears its history like a well-tailored suit – all elegant architecture and regal bearing befitting England’s ancient capital. But while the cathedral’s soaring spires and college’s hallowed halls might dominate the tourist literature, it’s the city’s burgeoning food scene that’s really worthy of coronation these days.
Just an hour from London by train, Winchester has quietly evolved into Hampshire’s gastronomic capital, with a dining landscape that spans the globe, all whilst being anchored in the county’s keen agriculture. The twice-monthly farmers’ market (the largest in the UK) hints at the city’s commitment to exceptional produce, while the winding streets harbour everything from natural wine bars to artisanal coffee shops.
So whether you’re here for a weekend break or making a dedicated pilgrimage to one of the city’s acclaimed kitchens, here’s our pick of where to eat in Winchester right now. These are the best restaurants in Winchester.
Lucky Lychee at The Green Man, Southgate Street
Ideal for creative Malaysian fusion dishes in a characterful historic pub setting…
Breathing new life into a 500-year-old Winchester pub, Lucky Lychee is, to our mind, the best place to eat in Winchester. Chef Nicole Yeoh and partner James Harris marry Malaysian culinary traditions with Hampshire produce and the odd Western flourish (see: the bloody delicious brie and cranberry roti). The accolades agree – Lucky Lychee was recently crowned Britain’s Best Local Restaurant by The Good Food Guide.
The front room maintains proper boozer credentials with high tables and leather-topped benches, while comfortable booths and sofas create intimate dining spaces further back. Dark tones and wood paneling throughout.
The menu showcases Yeoh’s Nyonya heritage – a fusion of Chinese and Malay traditions. Start with sesame prawn toast elevated with lime leaf and coriander, or the Penang crispy pork roll wrapping free-range Hampshire pork in crispy beancurd. Both under a tenner.
The honey Marmite chicken delivers intensely satisfying savory depth. The 8-hour beef rendang demonstrates exceptional spice-handling, while the Nyonya pineapple king prawn curry balances Kashmiri chillies and coconut milk with tamarind and charred pineapple.
Weekend brunch features traditional roti canai – Malaysian flaky flatbreads made fresh to order. The full breakfast pairs Upton’s smoked fennel and black pepper bacon with spiced beans and signature roti. God it’s good.
A thoughtfully curated wine list leans towards low-intervention producers. The Lychee Collins provides refreshing counterpoint, while the Tom Yum Margarita pulls together hot and sour elements to glorious effect.
Open Wednesday to Friday from 5pm, Saturday and Sunday from 11am. Brunch served weekends 11am-2:30pm. Dinner service Wednesday to Saturday until 9pm, Sunday until 8pm. Booking recommended, particularly weekends. Dogs welcome in certain areas.
Ideal for exemplary Japanese cuisine that champions local ingredients…
Recently relocated from Paramount to Bridge Street but losing none of its charm in the move, Kyoto Kitchen has long been Winchester’s go-to for pinpoint Japanese cuisine. Kansai-born chef Hiroyuki Yoshida turns out an eclectic menu spanning pristine sashimi to innovative fusion.
The signature Winchester Roll swaps traditional nori for locally-grown wasabi leaves, arriving garnished with edible flowers and yuzu mayo, with fresh wasabi available to grate yourself. Nothing like a bit of interaction with your lunch, hey? The Signature Roll features prawn and tuna filling topped with seared salmon, mayo and light teriyaki dressing, while the Spider Roll with deep fried soft shell crab, tobiko, avocado and cucumber is equally impressive. All hover around the £15-19 mark.
Beyond sushi, the kitchen offers carefully curated omakase selections. The Chef’s Omakase Sashimi Selection features 20 pieces of the best available fish at £49.95, or opt for the half selection at £29.95. The Chef’s Omakase Nigiri Selection showcases six fish, individually prepared and draped over lightly pressed rice, also at £29.95.
The a la carte shines with dishes like the Gin Dara – melt-in-the-mouth black cod marinated with sweet white miso from Kyoto, served with spicy and sweet miso. At £39.95 it’s not cheap, but the pearly white flesh that literally melts in the mouth justifies it. For something truly special, the Saikoro Wagyu Steak features quintuple A grade Japanese Wagyu served Kyoto-style as gently seared cubes at £74.95.
Open Tuesday through Sunday for lunch (12-1:45pm) and dinner (5:30-9:45pm), with additional afternoon service Friday through Sunday. Book ahead – the kitchen is strict about last orders.
Ideal for refined British cooking in Winchester’s most historic dining room…
Dating back to the early 15th century, this timber-framed marvel has hosted everyone from Henry VIII to Mary Tudor. The building even helped pay for Mary’s lavish wedding to Philip of Spain at Winchester Cathedral in 1554.
The medieval character remains intact beneath heavy wooden beams, with an impressive inglenook fireplace and vintage chandeliers creating intimate nooks. The two are not mutually exclusive, of course…
The kitchen celebrates Hampshire’s natural larder. Start with chalk stream trout tartar with kohlrabi slaw and wasabi mayonnaise, before moving to 12-hour braised feather blade of beef. The duck breast with crispy confit leg and boozy cherry sauce is another standout.
Sunday lunch has achieved near-legendary status – roast sirloin or pork belly with all the trimmings including crisp, faithfully done roast potatoes, cauliflower cheese and plenty of homemade gravy. Two courses £35, three courses just a fiver more.
The cheese course features award-winning local varieties. Finish with dark chocolate cremeaux paired with white miso and gorgeous coffee caramel.
Open daily for lunch and dinner (closing between services). Book well ahead – while the building may have survived six centuries, free tables here rarely last six hours. It’s not surprising; this is one the best restaurants in Winchester, make no mistake.
Ideal for imaginative brunch and artisanal coffee in characterful surroundings…
Tucked away just off the High Street, this multi-level café has crafted a reputation for standout breakfasts and brunches. The airy upstairs dining room buzzes from 9am daily with Dorset-roasted coffee.
Breakfast here is a serious affair, befitting of the many lingering hangovers that this city always seems to suffer from. The Full English can barely be contained on its plate, with local sausage, bacon, eggs and all the trimmings, black pudding available for purists at £2 supplement. North African eggs layer garlic yogurt and harissa-spiced tomatoes over flatbread, while the vegan breakfast proves plant-based fare can be just as satisfying. All around £15.
For something lighter, brioche breakfast rolls start at £7 – locals swear by smoked trout, watercress and avocado. The chalk stream trout makes another appearance at lunch atop sourdough toast. Why wouldn’t it keep repeating on menus, though? It’s one of Hampshire’s most elite ingredients. It will keep repeating in other ways throughout the day, too…
Generously filled sandwiches at lunch. Their crispy chicken with katsu mayo is a standout, as is the harissa hummus with rocket.
Downstairs Hatch offers simplified takeaway, but the main café (open daily 9am-4pm) rewards those with time to linger. Booking advised for weekend brunch – this hidden gem isn’t so hidden anymore.
Ideal for elevated pub dining in a storied Winchester setting…
Sandwiched between Winchester Cathedral and the 14th-century college, this Fuller’s pub has earned two AA Rosettes for thirteen consecutive years. Under head chef Luke Emmess, the kitchen maintains high standards while keeping one foot firmly in pub tradition.
Begin with house-made sourdough and divine, golden-hued chicken butter, or dive into starters like chalk stream trout (there it is again) and n’duja fishcake with lobster sauce. The Grassroots beef short rib crumpet with marmite glaze is as good as it sounds.
You could luxuriate in those starters for the entirety of your meal here, but to do so would be to miss out on the more homely main courses. The signature lamb pie with creamy mash and port jus sits comfortably alongside pan-roasted trout with Cornish mussels. Both priced mid-twenties. For committed meat-eaters, the 8oz fillet steak with café de Paris butter makes a strong case for the ol’ carnivore diet at £45, while the 800g côte de boeuf at £82 is perfect for sharing.
The wine list is particularly strong on European classics, with their own Wykeham-branded wines showing surprising quality. The pub remains an actual drinking establishment too – Fuller’s ales alongside guest craft beers.
Open daily from 11am (food served from noon). Booking essential, especially for Sunday lunch. While the main menu offers refined comfort, the bar snacks menu provides perfect sustenance for a quick pint between cathedral and college.
A vinyl-soundtracked taco joint might not be the most obvious addition to Winchester’s faithfully MOR dining scene, but Overdraft has made itself indispensable. Everything from soft corn tortillas to seitan chorizo is made in-house daily.
The taco menu reads like a greatest hits of Mexican street food. Tacos are £4.50 each, or three of the same for £12. The Baja fish taco features tempura-battered catch of the day with lime slaw and mango chilli sauce, while the 12-hour braised machaca brisket shows their skill with slow-cooked meats. Vegans are particularly well served – their crispy seitan ‘chicken’ boasts a pleasing mouthfeel and plenty of vivacity.
For something more substantial, burritos come packed with red rice, refried beans and all the trimmings, while the birria tacos – three crispy shells with brisket and melted cheese, served with rich dipping sauce – have achieved cult status for good reason.
Though the name Overdraft might give students PTSD at first glance, their Taco Tuesday deal (three tacos for £8) packs out the industrial-chic space weekly. Whichever way you play it, don’t skip the sides – the lime salt fries channeling the flavours of a margarita somewhat, are addictive, especially with a dash of their house-made hot sauce.
Open daily from noon. Kitchen serves until 9pm Monday to Saturday, 8pm Sunday. Bar stays open until 10pm weekdays, midnight Friday and Saturday, 9pm Sunday. They don’t take bookings, but turnover is quick, and the bar makes waiting a pleasure rather than a chore.
Ideal for sophisticated Spanish tapas in a charming market town setting…
Just a short drive from Winchester in picturesque Alresford, Pulpo Negro has held its Michelin Bib Gourmand since 2014. Founders Marie-Lou and Andres Alemany bring authentic Spanish cuisine to Hampshire’s watercress capital.
The menu reads like a love letter to Spanish gastronomy, starting with impeccable jamón ibérico from Castro y González. Their namesake Galician octopus adobado is a masterclass in cooking the tentacled one until tender, and the gambas al ajillo arrive sizzling boisterously in garlic-infused oil. The BBQ seabass on the bone comes barmarked and handsome, adorned with smoked harissa and preserved lemon for a little extra energy.
The classics are done right – pan con tomate and plate of pert boquerones before moving onto heartier, more leftfield dishes like corn-fed chicken thighs with Navarra chickpeas and dukkah. The kitchen’s commitment to premium ingredients shines in large Scottish langoustines with sobrasada negra and oloroso butter; a superb dish if ever there was one.
Spanish gin takes centre stage in their cocktail program (try the Gin Mare with rosemary, thyme and lemon), and the wine list leans heavily on Spanish regions, from crisp Albariños to robust Riojas, many by the glass. Whatever you’re drinking and however full you are, end with their churros con chocolate. It would be criminal not to.
Open Wednesday to Saturday, lunch from noon to 3pm and dinner from 5pm to 11pm. The intimate dining room fills quickly, so booking ahead is essential.
Though it’s not exactly in the city, it’s certainly one of the best restaurants in the wider Winchester area. Christ, that’s a clumsy sounding phrase.
Ideal for elevated fish and chips that transcend the genre…
Sometimes you just want really good fish and chips, and Shoal delivers exactly that. Located on the ground floor of Winchester’s handsome Guildhall building, this chippy doesn’t lose sight of what makes fish and chips great in the first place, despite its illustrious location.
The fish is consistent, fresh and perfectly cooked, and encased in light, crisp batter that somehow manages to stay crunchy until the last bite. The chips are, you know, chips as they should be – none of your frozen nonsense here – and the homemade sauces are a cut above.
You can sit down if you so wish, and you might want to; the restaurant proper offers unlimited chips with its main courses, though you might struggle to finish your first portion – they’re bloody massive! And don’t skip dessert – the ice cream is made onsite with flavours changing daily, and comes with a lovely little branded wafer that adds a touch of old-school charm. What more could you want in such a proudly old school place?
Ideal for fresh seafood dishes that bring Cornwall to Hampshire…
When Rick Stein chose Winchester as his first location beyond Cornwall in 2014, he brought more than just his name – he imported that distinctly Cornish reverence for fresh seafood. Today, with daily deliveries from the southwest coast, head chef Chris Baker maintains the exacting standards that made Stein’s Padstow joint famous.
The menu opens strong with Thai fish cakes at £12, while the seared Cornish scallops with lentils and herb dressing pack serious flavour at £19.50. Prices go north fast thereafter; the shellfish ragoût – a medley of crab, cockles, clams, mussels and prawns with linguine – is £36.50. Fortunately, the dish itself is admittedly delicious.
For the true Stein experience, the Fruits de Mer at £48 is hard to beat – a properly lavish spread featuring Cornish crab claw, oysters, prawns, scallops, mussels, cockles and clams, all left in the shell and served on ice with shallot vinegar and mayo. Perhaps steer clear of the Indonesian seafood curry, though – it’s priced at an almost unforgivable £34 for not a lot of fish, quite frankly.
The house champagne comes from a tiny winery east of Reims that’s been supplying the Steins for three decades. A thoughtfully curated wine list leans heavily on coastal regions, with several excellent by-the-glass options starting around £8.
Open daily from noon. The set lunch and early dinner menu – two courses for £22 or three for £27 – represents genuine value, especially when held up against the a la carte pricing. They’ll even serve you a coffee and pastry if that’s all your day requires – though why you’ve pitched up at Rick Stein’s seeking only a damn croissant is a question for another day.
There’s no thoroughfare in the world’s most visited city™ quite as intoxicating as Yaowarat Road. Nope, you’re not high off exhaust fumes, of which admittedly there are many. It’s not spliff smoke that’s got you giddy either, billowing out from a side soi’s so-called dispensary. There’s something more intangible in the air here – a sense of possibility, a kinetic energy and, above all else, the allure of a damn good meal.
But just as the promise of something special can so often evaporate before it’s had time to crystallise, so the experience of eating on Bangkok’s Yaowarat Road and the wider Chinatown area can be fraught with missed opportunities, closed shophouses, underseasoned plates and overwrought metaphors.
Underneath a neon sky thick and hazy – incense, woks and petrol all accounted for – you do have to work (or, at least, walk) for a truly brilliant meal in Yaorawat. Strangely for a district with so many famed options for your supper, there are an equal number of duds ready to trip you up. That’s if a stray stool, extended selfie stick, or the fact that it’s a Monday don’t get there first.
Time, then, to take your eyes up off your phone and look where you’re going – it’s busy out there.
Anyway, enough breaking of the fourth wall and, instead, let’s make a proper impact on our appetites. Here are the best places to eat in Bangkok’s Chinatown (Yaowarat).
Chop Chop Cook Shop
It might feel like we’re raising the white flag before we’ve even got going by beginning indoors, in a proper restaurant, but there’s a good reason our list starts here. It’s because Chop Chop Cook Shop opens from midday right on through ’till late, making it one of the few places in the neighbourhood you can kick back with a beer and a bite during that strange Bangkok barren spell between around 2 and 5pm.
The striking space was designed in collaboration with designer Apirak Leenharattanarak. It could easily have gone full theme-park with its nods to the building’s goldsmith showroom history, but instead, it’s tastefully done, a marriage of mid-century American diner aesthetics – terrazzo floors and pastel-hued booths – with red neon Chinese characters and decorative dragon motifs that reference its position at the symbolic dragon’s back of Yaowarat Road.
It’s a stylish space that doesn’t swerve jarringly into pastiche, with the constant clatter of woks and the sweet, heady hum of smoked meat grounding you firmly in Bangkok rather than on some designer’s mood board.
So, slip inside and settle into one of those window booths, allowing you to gaze out over the Yaorawat Road traffic without being too immersed in it. The perfect setting, we think, for chef David Thompson’s homage to Thailand’s historic and much-misunderstood ‘cookshop’ cuisine – a culinary time capsule from the 1920s to 1970s that had nearly vanished into the mists of time that tees up Teochew, Chinese, Thai, and Western influences. It all feels decidedly old school, a little kitsch, but delivered with the requisite sleight of hand that lightens and lifts the load.
Of course you’ll want to order rounds of the roast meat – the barbecued pork and the roast duck both available over noodles or as standalone items – but don’t let a myopic vision on the main event distract you from the excellent starters; the drunken clams and spring rolls are particularly good, the bak kwa (a kind of sweet, sticky pork jerky) even better.
For dessert, the deceptively simple ginger milk curd is a refreshing conclusion, making you question how something so basic can taste so complex. Wash it all down with a Singha or two, and launch back into Chinatown refreshed and replenished.
Buried deep down one of Yaowarat’s alleyways where you may well lose GPS signal but certainly not your sense of place, Lim Lao Ngow has turned fishball-making into something far greater than the sum of its parts.
The crowds here aren’t gathered in pursuit of mediocrity – these springy, perfectly seasoned spheres of fish bob around in a broth so clear you could check your reflection in it. The textural contrast between the tacky fishballs (the factory bounce is spot on) and noodles with just the right amount of chew is as good as it gets in the city. And that’s saying something.
If your reflection doesn’t need checking, order this one ‘haeng’ (dry) for a different eating experience – more salad-y and, arguably, even more satisfying. Whether wet or dry, do remember to season judiciously to your taste using the tabletop condiments – the baseline here is fairly bland (intentionally so), letting the quality of the fish balls do all the talking.
Their chicken satay skewers – gnarly and burnished – aren’t an afterthought. Though they don’t quite feel at place alongside a fishball soup, these supporting actors could easily star in their own show.
When a place has been ladling the same soup (not actually the same soup, but you know what we mean) for half a century and been bestowed a MICHELIN Bib Gourmand in the process, you know they’ve cracked the code.
Now in the hands of the founder’s son (no pressure there, mate), Guay Jub Ouan Pochana’s rolled noodle soup is just so cleansing, its backbone of pork stock light and silky, its pepperiness assertive but well-judged.
There’s perfect chewy resistance to the noodles here; noodles that are, admittedly, damn hard to lift with your chopsticks without sending soup splashing up all over the place. Still, it’s worth the work. And , indeed, the wash.
The slivers of pork offal are handled with such care you’ll forget you’re eating parts that usually make tourists squirm. Not feeling adventurous? The basic pork version still delivers.
No wonder Guay Jub Ouan Pochana is considered one of Chinatown’s best places to eat.
In the gladiatorial arena of Yaowarat’s eye-catching seafood joints – where tanks of live creatures put on their most seductive swimwear display for passing tourists – T&K Seafood reigns supreme.
The sidewalk seating drops you centre-stage in Chinatown’s nightly theatre, with front-row seats to flames leaping from woks and the symphony of motorbike exhaust at cutlery level, seasoning your plate of clams stir-fried in chilli jam with a miasma distinctly Bangkoian.
Order a couple of outsized Singhas, get a pitcher of ice, and suddenly that plastic stool feels like the best seat in Bangkok – especially when you inevitably strike up a conversation with a neighbouring table and everything afterwards gets a little hazy.
You can read more of our thoughts on T&K seafood here, by the way.
Hidden deep in Chinatown’s labyrinthine backstreets, where even Google Maps throws up its hands in surrender, Tai Heng operates from what is essentially someone’s converted garage – a space where two randomly placed marble tables anchor this family-run joint.
Tai Heng has somehow mastered two completely different dishes that rarely share menu space: khao man gai and Thai sukiyaki – a dual specialisation that we still don’t quite understand. What we do know is that both dishes are gold-standard versions, and certainly rub along nicely on the same table.
Their khao man gai features chicken poached to that slightly pink tenderness that’s just so good over rice that’s been properly pampered with chicken fat. The sukiyaki is where the magic happens, though – order it ‘haeng’ (dry) and witness a homogenous tangle of glass noodles with just enough char to flirt with burning but never commit, seafood and egg forming a sticky, unified whole that sings with wok hei.
The distinctive shocking-pink dipping sauce – sharp, rich and weirdly energetic – provides the perfect counterpoint. The peaceful backstreet location offers something nearly extinct in Yaowarat – actual serenity – making it the ideal refueling stop before plunging back into Chinatown’s beautiful chaos.
Interestingly, in the three or four times we’ve been to Tai Heng, we’ve been the only ones dining here. Which makes us wonder if it is, in fact, just a family home, and they’re simply too polite to turn us away.
Affectionately dubbed the ‘musical chairs curry shop’ for its constant rotation of diners on red plastic stools, at Jek Pui the entire culinary orchestra plays out streetside, with massive pots of curry lined up invitingly, their surfaces hypnotically dappled with beads of separated coconut cream, just as it should be.
Everything’s served at that perfect Bangkok room temperature – not hot enough to burn when you inevitably spill some on your lap, but warm enough to show the curry’s nuance and depth to its full potential. Their yellow curry with pork is the undisputed headliner and the must-order here – rich, salty and sweet, it’s fabulous.
The pro move? Add some crispy fried Chinese sausage on top for textural contrast and a good whack of MSG. Yes, you’re perched on a plastic stool that’s threatening to buckle under the weight of your enthusiasm, and also yes, you’ll need to surrender your seat while still chewing on your last bite, but with curry this transcendent, comfort comes in the bowl, not on the bottom.
This proud street-side operation – with its prominently displayed Michelin badges from 2018 and 2019 (they are still listed in 2025’s addition, by the way) – has turned the humble act of frying dough into something of a public performance.
The stall’s centrepiece, a giant bronze wok of bubbling oil that could confidently double as a satellite dish, sits boldly on the pavement itself, forcing pedestrians to navigate a careful path behind the operation as if participating in some delicious, highly dangerous obstacle course.
Under the watchful eye of dexterous cooks in branded aprons, the pa tong go emerges with a crisp shell that shatters at suggestion of a first bite, revealing an interior so fluffy it defies the laws of dough physics, which is a subject we’d go back to university for, come to think of it.
Somehow these deep-fried delights emerge suspiciously grease-free, as if they’ve negotiated some deal with the oil. The accompanying pandan custard elevates what would already be an exceptional snack into something truly magnificent; so moreish that you’ll be burning your mouth right off as you dive back in for seconds too soon.
Join the inevitable cluster of waiting customers who’ve been drawn in by both the Michelin recognition and the hypnotic sight of perfectly executed frying tekkers happening right on Bangkok’s bustling streets.
In the cutthroat battlefield of rolled noodle vendors (we’re wondering if they roll up their defeated competitors in a big sheet of rice noodle, a la a thousand gangster film tropes), Nai Ekk holds its own against Ouan Pochana from a few yards west and a few paragraphs previous with a broth so peppery it should come with a warning label. Or, at least, a few tissues to deal with the resultant sneezing.
Their not-so-secret weapon? Perfectly prepared pig’s offal that lands on just the right side of firm and bitter (you won’t find blushing pink offal much in Thailand – which, come to think of it, is the right way to be).
The crispy pork belly brings much needed textural contrast to the slippery, sticky noodles and offal-y bits. Whilst we’d hesitate to ever suggest crackling and fat brought relief, it kind of does here.
The dining room (yep, this one is to be enjoyed with a roof overhead) is pure shophouse chic – all tiles and stainless steel that haven’t changed since your grandparents’ first date (those are some cool grandparents) – but nobody’s here for the interior design awards. It’s that soup, swimming with rasping complexity, that keeps the regulars waiting for their turn on those wobbly metal stools.
You’ll also find roast pork and braise goose over rice here, if you’re looking to eat beyond the restaurant’s eponymous dish.
Part of a gorgeously restored shophouse on Chinatown’s increasingly groovy Soi Nana (the good Nana, not the hellscape one), Ba Hao has perfected the art of making boozing feel culturally enriching.
The ground floor opens out into studied vintage Chinese aesthetics – red neon that bathes everyone in flattering light, antique tiles that have seen things, and wooden furniture that creaks with stories.
But let’s cut to the chase – while the Chinese-inspired cocktails might lure you in, the food makes Ba Hao worthy of a place on our roundup of Yaorawat’s best restaurants. Seeing as this is drinking food, it’s in the ‘small bites’ section of the menu that you’ll be most rewarded. Freshly fried spring onion pancakes, sesame shrimp toast with a pleasing recoil, and deep fried spinach and prawn wantons all hit the spot with a cold one.
Whatever you do, don’t sleep on the Sichuan nuts – they’re totally addictive with one of the bar’s signature baijiu-based concoctions that make this notoriously brutal spirit feel nuanced and complex. Cheers!
Standing proudly in the heart of Chinatown, Potong is Chef Pichaya ‘Pam’ Soontornyanakij’s love letter to her family heritage. Set within a beautifully renovated 120-year-old Sino-Portuguese shophouse that once housed her family’s Chinese medicine business, the restaurant blends history with culinary innovation. The five-story building has been meticulously restored over two and a half years, with each floor offering a distinct experience – from the ground-floor Potong Sino Bar to the atmospheric Opium Bar on the upper levels.
Chef Pam’s progressive Thai-Chinese tasting menu showcases her exceptional talent, earning her accolades including a Michelin star, a spot on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list, and the title of Asia’s Best Female Chef 2024. The 20-course culinary journey balances tradition with modernity, with highlights including the extraordinary 14-day aged duck (complete with brain served in its skull), innovative Pad Thai interpretation, and dishes that honour the five elements of cooking: salt, acid, spice, texture, and Maillard reaction. Each plate tells a story, drawing on Pam’s family recipes while incorporating modern techniques learned during her time at Jean-Georges in New York.
While the tasting menu (priced around ฿6300 – around £145 – per person) places it firmly in special occasion territory, the unique combination of heritage, innovation, and Chef Pam’s personal connection to the space makes Potong one of Bangkok’s most compelling dining destinations and certainly one of the best restaurants in Yaorawat. Reservations are essential and should be made months in advance.
You can check out our full review of Potong here, by the way.
Just off Yaowarat Road, this century-old institution has made Teochew-style suckling pig its speciality. The preparation is quite the sight — whole piglets on spits are brought from kitchen to street, where a chef rotates them over charcoal drums, continuously basting with an oil-soaked cloth. Even if you’re ‘just browsing’, the show will stop you in your tracks. And, the aroma of caramelising pig fat will have you following the scent into the restaurant like a cartoon character smelling a freshly-baked apple pie on a windowsill.
When the pig achieves that perfect golden crackling, it’s carried back inside to appreciative nods from the dining room. A skilled chef then carefully removes the crisp skin, portions it into bite-sized pieces, and arranges it back atop the pig. The dish is then delivered to your table with suitable ceremony.
The pig is served in two distinct stages — first the crackling skin with pancakes, cucumber, spring onions and hoisin sauce (rather like Peking duck), then the meat returns transformed into a garlicky stir-fry. You’ll need a group of about six to properly enjoy a whole pig, which makes it ideal for a communal dinner. The fluorescent lighting might not create the most intimate atmosphere, but it emphasises that this is faithful culinary tradition rather than something designed purely for social media.
Nai Mong Hoi Thod has spent the last three decades perfecting a single dish with such devotion that it’s garnered a Michelin Bib Gourmand and the title of “best oyster omelette in the universe” (according to legendary chef David Thompson, who’s not one for casual hyperbole).
This unassuming shophouse is non-descript from the outside—the universal sign that something brilliant awaits inside. The cooking station is a spectacle of controlled chaos—a hulking charcoal-fired battlestation with a makeshift fan system that sends sparks dancing around the unfazed chef like fireflies at dusk.
You face two delicious dilemmas: crispy (‘awlua’) or soft (‘awsuan’) style, and mussels or oysters. The crispy version shatters gloriously under your fork, while the soft version stretches with a gooey, cheese-like elasticity from the sticky rice flour batter. Both sit atop a bed of crunchy bean sprouts, making a futile attempt to soak up the magnificent oils. While the oyster version features plump specimens lounging like royalty on their golden thrones, the mussels bed down more directly into the mixture. Decisions, decisions.
Regardless of how you play it, accompanying chili-vinegar sauce cuts through the richness with electric sharpness, creating a perfect marriage of flavours. Yes, it’s perhaps pricier than your average street food joint (blame the shiny Michelin recognition), but you’re still paying less for a fully formed meal here than you are for a single oyster at one of Sukhumvit’s wine bars.
Planted defiantly in the heart of Yaowarat’s rushing river of humanity, Krua Porn Lamai’s take on rad na is one of the best in town. What began as a humble two-table operation 25 years ago has blossomed into a street-side empire that now commands around 20 tables sprawling across most of Plaeng Nam Road – a testament to Bangkok’s meritocratic food scene where quality trumps all else, and where customers vote defiantly with their feet.
Wide rice noodles get stir-fried with Chinese broccoli and your protein of choice before being dramatically doused in a rich ‘lava gravy’ that creates enough steam to mist up the glasses of onlookers. Their signature addition of a crispy fried egg on top might make traditionalists clutch their pearls, but when that perfect runny yolk breaks and mingles with the gooey gravy, creating a creamy coating that transforms each mouthful, you’ll wonder why everyone doesn’t do it.
The sizzling hot skillets ensure your last bite is as hot as your first – a rare achievement in thw world of outdoor dining. Yes, eating here means sharing pavement space with Bangkok’s notorious traffic, but the vehicles navigate carefully around the tables in an unspoken agreement that food this good deserves respect and right of way.
For the best experience, arrive early or prepare to wait – locals pack this place nightly until its 2 AM closing time, making it perfect for a late-night feast after exploring Chinatown.
In a neighbourhood seemingly in thrall to soups and gravy-laden noodles, Ann Guay Tiew Kua Gai takes a different path – one paved with dry wok-charred rice noodles that crackle underfoot with smoky intensity.
This decades-old shophouse on Thanon Luang is one of Bangkok’s chief guay tiew kua gai purveyors – wide rice noodles stir-fried with chicken over flames so aggressive they’d make health and safety inspectors (and do make diners) a little nervous. Accordingly, the noodles boast that elusive wok hei in good measure,
The mix – more of a homogenous raft of noodle than something disparate and slurpable – arrives dry, dressed simply with dark soy sauce, a little lettuce, tender chicken, a few squares of very industrial ham and a runny egg yolk. The overall sensation, rather strangely, is of eating a ham and cheese croissant. It tastes very ‘Western’, but it keeps you intrigued and beguiled until the final bite.
Season at the table with the usual condiments to move it back into Chinatown territory.
Walking into Hua Seng Hong is like stepping into the Chinatown dining experience that exists in collective nostalgia — complete with chattering aunties who won’t hesitate to tell you you’re ordering wrong or that you’ve put on weight even though it’s the first time you’ve met.
You can’t miss the place — just look for the massive red storefront with its cartoonish chef logo proudly hoisting a steaming dish, flanked by glass cases displaying an array of plumply appointed dim sum baskets and seafood, and a row of woks powered by jet burner. Those woks flame skywards with theatrical abandon and singe off eyebrows all over the shop, and dim sum trolleys navigate between tables with the confidence of a Bangkok TukTuk driver sashaying through the Asoke intersection.
The menu divides neatly into two specialties: daytime dim sum and evening seafood. For lunch, their extensive dim sum selection draws crowds, sure, but it’s the evening seafood menu that truly establishes Hua Seng Hong as a Chinatown institution.
The steamed sea bass in soy sauce is a standout — the fish arrives glistening, fragrant with sesame oil and topped with perfectly julienned ginger and spring onions. Crab features prominently on the menu in various preparations: try the crab meat in yellow curry for something rich and aromatic, or the crab fried rice where each grain is individually coated in egg and studded with sweet crabmeat.
Don’t miss their sour seafood soup (potak talay) — a sophisticated relative of tom yum that arrives bubbling dramatically over a flame. The broth balances sour, spicy and umami notes as only Thailand can do with quite such precise dexterity, all without overpowering the essence of the seafood.
The dining room — round tables with lazy Susans for family-style dining, lighting that errs on the side of clinical rather than ambient, and red and gold decorations that haven’t changed in decades – all remind you exactly where you are. For dessert, explore their Hong Kong-influenced sweet menu, from delicate crepe cakes to traditional Chinese dessert soups, the latter wonderfully refreshing in the choking heat of the city.
Just 20 metres from Wat Mangkon MRT outside Wat Mongkol Samakhom, where tourists are busy photographing the temple’s golden splendour, a humble stall represents three generations’ dedication to dumpling perfection.
The proprietor crafts what might be Bangkok’s tiniest, most perfect shumai – each no larger than a coin but packed with more flavour than items triple their size. A shower of crispy fried garlic and house-made chilli sauce finishes these bite-sized marvels that prove once and for all that size really doesn’t matter.
Each dumpling represents a century-old recipe preserved with the kind of reverence usually reserved for religious artefacts (appropriate location, then), making this not just a meal but an experience rooted in history.
The makeshift kitchen – essentially just a steaming vessel under the ornate entrance of a Chinese temple – is so vividly evocative it has you questioning if you’re dreaming. There are a couple of randomly placed schoolchairs, but these are always occupied by a patriarch or two, sipping tea and discussing serious matters we wish we understood. For us, leaning against the wall is just fine because inside our polystyrene tray we have our shumai. A toothpick is all you need to ferry these home.
Follow the bright yellow banner, the inevitable queue of people (and accordant line of luminous tuk tuks ready to scoop them up), and the stacks of distinctive bright yellow boxes with the owners’ portraits prominently displayed, to find Yaowarat’s famous stuffed buns.
Inside a bustling street-side stall, workers in red uniforms with white aprons and protective gloves meticulously prepare each cloudlike creation, toasting them to order on large metal griddles and filling them with your choice of custard, from old-school traditional egg to more modern Thai milk tea or sweet chilli.
The take-away yellow boxes have become almost as iconic as the buns themselves – a symbol of tradition that signals to those in the know that you’ve found the real deal among Chinatown’s many pretenders. Worth every minute of the wait, which, let’s be honest, gives you time to decide which flavour combinations you’ll try on your inevitable return visit tomorrow.
With a distinctive two-tier seating arrangement that’s catnip for Tik Tokers, randomly dispersed fake cherry blossom trees, and occasionally lurid dim sum sets, there’s a worry that, superficially, Lhong Tou Cafe is going to be all style, no substance. You’ll find those fears unfounded; Lhong Tou Cafe bridges old and new Chinatown both architecturally and culinarily to beautiful ends.
Their modern interpretations of dim sum classics deserve equal billing with the photogenic interior – egg lava buns that deliver on their slightly dusty molten promises (and destroy the inner lining of your mouth if you’re too hasty) and some seemingly sun-seeking prawn spring rolls that showcase how traditional techniques can be made Insta-pretty without losing their soul.
This is the rare place where the food lives up to the aesthetics, proving you can indeed judge a book by its cover sometimes.
In the midst of a neighbourhood famous for its dedication to the old school, not-to-be-fucked-with recipes, Yuan Yuan Man Man does things a little differently. This innovative spot serves vegan-friendly tofu ice cream so creamy it should be scientifically impossible – enough to convert even the most dedicated dairy disciples.
Their black sesame bua loy dumplings provide that perfect chewy resistance that makes you work just enough for your dessert, while crushed ginger cookies add warmth and spice that cuts through the subtle tofu base.
Images via @yuanyuanicecream
It’s the rare vegan dessert that doesn’t announce its plant-based credentials like it’s expecting a round of applause from numb hands – it simply delivers flavour and refreshment.
Next up we’re heading to bustling Plaeng Nam Road, where motorbikes part pedestrians like Moses with the Red Sea. Here, an unassuming shophouse has perfected the deceptively simple art of chicken rice, with meat poached to that precarious point of tenderness, where flavour reaches its zenith.
The rice – the true test of any khao man gai joint – is generously infused with chicken fat and aromatics, creating grains that demand to be eaten individually rather than shovelled in desperately. Sure, it might take you a whole afternoon to actually do that, but what an afternoon you’ll have.
Their house-made chilli sauce, sharp with ginger and garlic and humming with umami from fermented soy bean paste, ties everything together. It’s a dish that proves simplicity, when executed with religious precision, can outshine complexity every time.
In the confusingly named Soi Texas, Chinatown’s emerging food frontier where young chefs come to make their mark, Ba Hao Tian Mi represents the neighbourhood’s evolution in dessert form.
A sister of the aforementioned cocktail connoisseurs over on Soi Nana, their black sesame soy pudding with boba offers a modern interpretation of bubble tea that’s somehow even more satisfying than the original.
It’s tradition with just enough contemporary flair to avoid the museum-piece feeling of some older establishments, maintaining the comforting essence of Chinese dessert soups while acknowledging that taste evolves. The minimalist, design-forward space might seem at odds with Chinatown’s usual aesthetic chaos, but it represents the new wave of Yaowarat entrepreneurs – respectful of tradition while refusing to be handcuffed by it.
With our sweet tooth only growing with age, we’re off to another dessert shop next; Sweetime, which specialises in traditional Chinese desserts with subtle Thai twists. Their black sesame dumplings in ginger tea are the signature here – warming, nutty, and achieving that perfect balance of sweetness and simplicity that refreshes rather than overwhelms.
It’s the ideal pit stop between the neighbourhood’s more substantial offerings, a palate reset that somehow manages to feel both indulgent and restorative simultaneously. The no-frills setting with its handful of tables means you might end up sharing space with locals who’ve been coming here for decades – the ultimate endorsement in an area (and city) where loyalty is earned through consistency, not trends.
A Yaorawat institution serving satay so expertly grilled you’d think the chefs had thermometers built into their fingertips, at Jay Eng each skewer emerges with perfectly imperfect char marks, the meat still impossibly juicy inside – that mythical balance that home barbecuers spend lifetimes pursuing without success.
The peanut sauce is a revelation that makes every other version seem like watered-down pretenders, thick enough to cling to the meat but not so heavy it overwhelms. Their subtle location, practically hidden behind a lamppost and a couple of parked motorbikes, means many walk past without noticing – all the better for those in the know who don’t want to share this treasure with the masses. That said, there are a collection of colourfully-tiled tables inside if you’re keen to take a load off a while.
Come hungry, leave smelling like smoke, and don’t wear white unless you enjoy living dangerously.
A word of warning! Be aware that many of the restaurants on this list close intermittently for holidays, both personal and national. The majority also don’t start serving immediately after opening. Many also sell out well in advance of their listed closing time. Always have a back up (or two). Monday is ‘cleaning day’ in Bangkok’s Chinatown, and many of the street food places are closed.
Perhaps no city on the planet has more often been named the street food capital of the world than Bangkok. Indeed, it feels as if the Thai capital would exist in a kind of liminal space between meals, were it not for the incredible range of sticks, skewers and sweet treats aimed at distracting appetites until dinner.
This is a city that’s always eating, and though it boasts an ever growing roster of groundbreaking, gravity defying high end restaurants, the main focus of the culinary culture in Bangkok is of course found on the street.
One for the pedants before we begin; defining exactly what ‘street food’ is in Bangkok has become an increasingly difficult endeavour, particularly as some vendors have been moved off the streets and indoors, often to the basement or top floor level of enormous, glitzy shopping malls that are just about as far from the street as is physically possible.
Street food, in the case of this roundup, is about the dishes and the cooks, rather than whether or not there’s a roof over your head or you can see blue sky as you eat. Often, the distinction between street food and shophouse is sometimes blurred only by a shutter.
What connects them is harder to define. Often, but certainly not always, people are thinking of one bowl wonders when they talk about street food. Generally considered ‘cheap eats’, these are family recipes, dishes, a sense of hospitality and a system of serving (and often queuing!) that has been refined over generations.
Anyway, you’re here for Bangkok’s most iconic, legendary, downright delicious street food dishes rather than a discussion in semantics, right? With that in mind, here’s a selection of the best places to eat street food in Bangkok.
Khao Gaeng Jek Pui, Yaorowat (Chinatown)
Ideal for homestyle Thai curry and a game of musical chairs…
Sure, some of the best curries in Bangkok are found in the city’s fancier restaurants, all perfectly balanced flavour profiles, chunks of meat braised until tender and near surrender, and an adornment of makrut lime leaf julienne so fine it passes for green baby hair.
And then, there is Jek Pui. A traditional Bangkok-style raan khao gaeng (rice and curry) restaurant, the whole orchestra is conducted on the street, with several huge pots of enticing curries lined up out the front of a Chinatown shophouse, their surfaces dappled with separated coconut milk, all cooled down to Bangkok room temperature – the perfect ambience for curry in the capital.
Pull up a red plastic stool in the chaotic but calm street level dining space (nicknamed ‘music chairs curry’ for the procession of diners it receives and quick turnaround it delivers), and order a yellow curry of pork, the Jek Pui signature, with some deep fried slivers of Chinese sausage as an extra garnish. It’s sweet, it’s salty and it’s pure perfection.
When is Jek Pui Curry open? Jek Pui is open daily, from 2pm to 7:30pm.
How long should I expect to queue? You’ll be able to find a stool fairly quickly, even at peak times (it’s usually busiest straight after opening).
How much should I expect to pay? The yellow curry with a couple of sides and a bottle of water won’t be more than 100 THB (just over £2).
Closest BTS/MRT: Wat Mangkon MRT (a 5 minute walk from there)
Ideal for arguably the world’s most iconic street food destination…
We couldn’t really go much further into an article about the best streetfood in Bangkok without mentioning the universally acknowledged queen of the scene; Jay Fai.
What is there left to be said that hasn’t already been covered? Yes, you’ll have to wait for several hours to eat the begoggled septuagenarian’s wok work. Sure, you might have to share a table with other hungry food tourists. Nope, these aren’t ‘normal’ streetfood prices, with most dishes in the 1000 THB region (around £25), but you’re paying for some seriously premium ingredients here.
Get over those hurdles and the massive wait, and get ready for a crab omlette the size of a newborn baby, properly filled with huge chunks of white meat. Chase it down with an expertly seasoned tom yum soup, replete with huge river prawns, properly spicy and tangy af, and forget that you waited so long.
Simply put your name down and note your number – it’s your call if you hang around with a beer in the adjacent cafe or risk losing your place in the queue by heading off for a couple of hours. You’ll see the last number on a sign out front – if it’s beyond your number, you’ve missed your slot and these guys do not make exceptions and allow for retrospective queue jumping. Your loss.
Bangkok’s Chinatown and, more precisely, its defining thoroughfare Yaowarat Road, is full of eye-catching, attention-grabbing seafood spots, with tanks of live fish and shellfish in their skimpiest swimsuits bobbing about in fish tanks for all to see, and huge clusters of plastic stools at motorbike exhaust fume level competing for passing custom.
To our mind, the best of the bunch is T&K Seafood, where the catch is plump and the nahm jim seafood deliciously piquant and punchy. Here, some of the dishes beyond the basic boiled or grilled seafood really hit the spot, too. We’re big fans of clams stir fried in chilli jam, the bivalves here big, briny beauties and the drifts of fresh Thai basil a welcome note of complexity. Even better, is the squid in a viscous, rich salted duck egg yolk sauce, which is punctuated by Chinese celery to lighten everything up.
Order a couple of big sharing beers and a pitcher of ice, get chatting to a neighbouring table, and you’ve got yourself a wonderful night out.
When is T&K Seafood open? From 4pm to midnight, daily.
How long should I expect to queue? You can usually find a table pretty swiftly, though at peak times (around 7pm), you may have to wait ten minutes or so. Turnaround here is fast, though, so don’t worry.
How much should I expect to pay? A generous spread of fresh seafood and a couple of cold ones is going to cost around 1000 THB (£22) for two.
Closest BTS/MRT: Wat Mangkon MRT (a 3 minute walk from there)
Ideal for peaceful, familial Chinatown shophouse style dining…
Still in Chinatown, though off the main artery and into the tangle of side streets, Tai Heng is essentially a couple of massive marble tables in the ground floor garage of a family home where they have pretty much perfected two dishes you don’t often see sharing a menu let alone a table; khao man gai (poached chicken over rice seasoned with chicken fat) and Thai suki hang.
The latter is a stir-fried noodle dish that, at its best, forms a kind of homogenous tangle of sticky, charred noodles, egg and seafood that sings with wok hei. Its distinctive, shocking pink (from red bean curd) dipping sauce – sharp, rich and energetic – seals the deal.
And so it is here, where both dishes have pretty much been perfected, the khao man gai’s chicken an off-pink tender that would be in danger of scaring off the tourists if only they could find the place, but is expertly poached and just so good. The sukiyaki stir fry (do order it ‘hang’, as in dry) is equally as exemplary.
Chase both down with an iced tea, breathe in the surprising serenity of Yaorowat’s backstreets, and get ready to launch yourself back into one of Bangkok’s busiest, buzziest areas.
Ideal for charred noodles and grilled seafood on the road…
For arguably Bangkok’s best version of sukiyaki, head next to Elvis Suki (the one on Soi Yotse, rather than the pretenders across the city piggybacking on the name), who have mastered the dish so comprehensively that the restaurant is now named after it. And, of course, named after Elvis Presley – the owner is a big fan and they are the self-proclaimed ‘king’ of the dish. It’s a damn good version, with a seriously smoky kiss from the coal stove over which it’s stir fried.
That said, it’s not the only thing you want to order here. The scallops – plump and fresh – grilled in their shell with a dressing of minced pork fried in sweet garlic butter are a revelation, blessed with that same charcoal smokiness as the sukiyaki, and bubbling and spitting on arrival to the table. In the best possible way of course…
Open until 9:30pm nightly, and popular with the after-work crowd, there’s both air conditioning seating across the road and sociable, street side seating infront of the woks. The beers flow here, naturally.
When is Elvis Suki open? From midday until 9:30pm, daily.
How long should I expect to queue? You should usually get a seat pretty swiftly after arriving.
How much should I expect to pay? Single dishes, including the famous sukiyaki, are priced at around 100 THB each (£2.20).
Closest BTS/MRT: Wat Mangkon MRT (a 15 minute walk – best to get a taxi).
Ideal for the city’s most historic mango sticky rice…
Time for a sweet treat, we think, and it has to be Thailand’s most iconic, beloved dessert; mango sticky rice. In a city where you’ll see Nam Dok Mai mangoes being peeled, sliced and served over rice on just about every street corner, it’s wise to seek out the best, to separate the coconut milk’s head from the tail, as it were.
Doing the good stuff for almost a century, Kor Panich is one of Bangkok’s most revered purveyors of mango sticky rice, their historic shophouse a mecca for lovers of this truly gorgeous dessert.
What more is there to say? The mangoes are only picked and peeled when at their most honey-sweet. The coconut cream is hand pressed daily – none of that UHT, soapy stuff here. It’s seasoned just right – salty, sweet but not overpowering, allowing the inherent coconut flavour to still sparkle. Even the toasted mung beans have been taken to just the right shade of dark brown and crispy.
Where once there was only a modest amount of seating within the shop, and most choose to takeaway from Kor Panich, owing to its success and Michelin recognition, there’s now ample seating in the cafe opposite. They do a refreshing mango smoothie for you to enjoy while you wait. The shophouse is open from 7am to 6pm daily, though be warned; they often sell out by mid afternoon.
When is Kor Panich open? Kor Panich is open daily, from 7am to 6pm.
How long should I expect to queue? Primarily a takeaway operation, you should be served swiftly here.
How much should I expect to pay? The classic dessert is on the more expensive side here, at around 130 THB (£3). You’re paying for some serious quality, though.
Closest BTS/MRT: Sam Yot MRT (a 15 minute walk – best to get a taxi).
Ideal for bowls and bowls of exemplary boat noodles…
The streets and canals surrounding Victory Monument BTS Station are famous for their boat noodles, a popular street food in Thailand that originated from the canals (or ‘khlongs’) of Central Thailand. The dish is named after the vendors who traditionally sold these noodles from boats that navigated the country’s vast network of waterways.
Boat noodles are a flavorful and aromatic noodle soup dish characterised by its rich, dark broth, which is commonly made from a mixture of pork and beef, as well as spices and herbs. The broth is often thickened with pig’s or cow’s blood, which gives it a distinctive taste and a deep colour. However, some places may serve it without blood for those who prefer it.
Though you could alight at Victory Monument and head straight for ‘boat noodle alley’, where a stretch of shophouses serve up the good stuff, you’ll find an even better bowl if you exit the station at the opposite side to that alley. Around a ten minute walk away, the guys at Doy Kuay Teow Reau are doing some truly ‘best in Bangkok’ bowls of boat noodles, rich and thick from blood and with a peppery back kick. We say bowls in the plural, as it’s expected you knock back several at any and all boat noodle shops. Well, it would be rude not to…
When is Doy Kuay Teow Reua open? Daily, from 8am to 6pm.
How long should I expect to queue? A sprawling, alfresco dining room, you’ll always find a table.
How much should I expect to pay? A bowl of boat noodles here is around 20 THB (50p), but expect to eat several, as is tradition.
Closest BTS/MRT: Victory Monument BTS (a ten minute walk from there).
Ideal for premium pork purveyors in Bangkok’s buzziest neighbourhood…
Just one BTS stop further along, in Ari, you’ll find one of Bangkok’s most cherished – legendary, even – pork purveyors. Thanee Khao Moo Daeng are famous for two things; their moo krob (crispy pork) and their moo daeng (stewed red pork), and both are superb, the latter in particular boasting a fluorescent, viscous gravy whose sheen needs to be seen to be believed. It tastes bloody wonderful.
The shop, as with so many on a lunchtime in bustling, residential Ari, is popular with office workers during their break. Ideally arrive a little before, at 11am or so, or after lunch, from 2pm onwards.
Another Bangkok institution that’s always packed with office workers during the lunchtime slot, is Som Tam Jay So, the so-called ‘Queen of Som Tam’.
She has well and truly earned her culinary crown, with intensely spicy, funky, fiery som tams made out front in a huge pestle and mortar by the cheeky, safety glasses-wearing host. Sure, she might chastise you for your less than perfect Thai when ordering, and tease you for the weight you’ve put on since your last visit, but it comes from a place of love.
And boy has love gone into the salads here, the ‘jungle’ version of papaya salad here (tam pa) an absolutely doozy of fermented fish sauce and heaps of both dried and fresh chillis. It will wake you up from even the darkest of hangovers. Hell, it could bring someone back from the dead, we think.
Pair it with some grilled pork neck – fatty as you like, its sugary marinade having caught on the grill to an inviting char – and some fresh sticky rice, and luxuriate in one of Bangkok’s finest street food experiences.
Oh, those safety glasses are for protection against errant chillies when pounding the salads, by the way…
When is Som Tam Jay So open? Closed on Sundays, Som Tam Jay So is open every other day from 11am to 5:30pm.
How long should I expect to queue? You will likely have to wait for a table (though there has recently been some spillover seating set up in the parking lot next door) unless you arrive after around 2pm.
How much should I expect to pay? Som tam salads here start at around 70 THB (£1.50), as does the grilled pork.
Closest BTS/MRT: Sala Daeng BTS (a 7 minute walk from there)
Ideal for steamed ‘claypot’ crab made by a legend…
Now in its third decade of steamed crab slinging, Somsak Pu Ob is one of Bangkok’s true streetfood institutions, a culinary tour-de-force that’s busy from the moment the woks are fired up at 5pm every night (except Mondays, when they’re closed) until Mr. Somsak downs tools for the evening just four hours later.
It’s no surprise that service hours are short and exclusive here; the owner – and only the owner – works the four stoves for the entirety of that service, exacting precision timings on some seriously high quality seafood.
The pu ob woonsen is the must order, no doubt, a dish of crab and glass noodles simultaneously fried and steamed in pork fat in a dedicated skillet, simply seasoned with plenty of black pepper, the sliced greens of spring onion, and both soy sauce and oyster sauce. Those noodles are sticky and giving, and have caught a little on the bottom of the pan, creating a caramelised crust that’s just beautiful. Roll up your sleeves and crack open the crab claws, here having taken on the sweet richness of the pork fat, and have yourself a merry old time. The small accompanying bowl of nahm jim seafood may feel superfluous (you can’t improve on perfection, and all that), but the bright, tart sauce lightens and lifts the whole thing.
There are now several branches of Somsak Pu Ob across the city, but if you want the main man to cook your dinner (you do), then it’s to the original, across the Chao Phraya and into Thonburi district, that you should head.
When is Somsak Pu Ob open? Open daily from 5pm to 9pm, except on Mondays, when it’s closed.
How long should I expect to queue? Arrive at opening time and you may get lucky and nab a table. Otherwise, expect a wait. Fortunately, there’s a ticketing system.
How much should I expect to pay? The signature dish is 310 THB (£.6.75).
Closest BTS/MRT: Wongwin Yai (a 7 minute walk from there)
Though the fortifying rice noodle broth of guay jub is the headlining dish in this famous Charoenkrung shophouse, pretty much everyone is here for one thing; Mr Joe’s famous crispy pork.
You won’t want to miss the guay jub, though, which boasts a pork broth spiked with inordinate amounts of pepper, that familiar rasping heat the perfect foil to all kinds of offal bobbing about in the bowl. It’s gorgeous, but really is a warm-up for what has to be some of the best (see: crispiest) pork in the city.Hitting the table already sliced into bite sized pieces, its fatty layers clearly distinguishable, its skin puffed and bubbled and gloriously golden, it’s impossible not to order a second round of the stuff. And a third. And a fourth…
So tender it only requires a little ketchup manis for dipping, Mr Joe is open from 7:30am to 4:30pm, though often closes earlier if they sell out.
When is Guay Jub Mr. Joe open? Open daily from 7:30am to 4:30pm.
How long should I expect to queue? A large, multiroom shophouse, you won’t have to wait for a table, even at peak times.
How much should I expect to pay? The noodle soup is 75 THB (£1.60), a plate of the crispy pork is also 75 THB.
Closest BTS/MRT: Saphan Taksin BTS (a 20 minute walk – taxi recommended!)
An absolute Bangkok institution beloved of chefs, strays, late night workers and early morning risers (and Dua Lipa), Issan alfresco operation Laab Ubon is open from until 4am nightly, and only really gets going post midnight.
Serving a decent som tam, properly juicy salt-crusted tilapia and a never ending supply of grilled chicken, strangely for the eponymous nature of things, the laab exactly isn’t our favourite version here. Not to worry; really, you’re at Laab Ubon for the cold, icey beer, the live footy being shown in the middle of the night (coinciding with British and European kickoff times perfectly) and the everpresent good natured vibes of the place.
When is Laab Ubon open? Laab Ubon is open daily from 5pm to 4am.
How long should I expect to queue? The dining space is expansive – you won’t have to wait.
How much should I expect to pay? This one really depends on how many beers you end up sinking, but prices are reasonable.
Closest BTS/MRT: SurasakBTS (a 2 minute walk, though do remember that the BTS shuts at midnight!).
Ideal for the most generous of crab fried rice dishes…
Here Hai simply wouldn’t survive a day in the UK, owing to the food costs involved in serving plates of crab fried rice with this much white crab meat. What, in this economy? Huge, mighty chunks of the stuff literally spill off the sides of your plate in this tightly packed dining room, the woks working overtime to service the never-ending stream of orders for the famous fried rice, only made more in demand by the restaurant’s recent floating on GrabFood.
It’s worth the massive wait, with the crab sourced directly from seafood-mecca Surat Thani daily. You’d be foolish to only order the crab fried rice. The fried mantis, showered in buttery sweet fried garlic, is superb, too, as are the giant river prawns, splayed open to reveal gooey, egg-yolk colour head juices. Perhaps best of all though is a riff on everyone’s favourite Thai go-to lunch; pad grapao. Here, it’s done with genuinely a dozen or more queen scallops, smoky but tender, and showered in rafts of holy basil. Yep, not content with their seafood generosity, these guys aren’t shy with the fresh herbs either!
When is Here Hai open? Closed on Mondays and Tuesdays, Here Hai is open from 10am to 5:30pm on Wednesdays to Sundays, closing for an hour between 3pm and 4pm.
How long should I expect to queue? Anytime of day, expect to queue for at least an hour, even prior to Here Hai opening. You can put your name down and risk going for a wander, though.
How much should I expect to pay? The signature crab fried rice comes in a variety of sizes with different price points, from 440 THB (£9.60) to 1550 THB (£33.75) for a portion that will feed 4 to 6.
Closest BTS/MRT: Ekkamai BTS (a 15 minute walk in a straight line)
Ideal for every Bangkokian’s favourite comfort food…
No list of Bangkok’s best street food would be complete without mentioning a dedicated pad grapao peddler, such is the popularity of this most comforting of Thai dishes in the city and beyond.
Our favourite in the city (whilst we certainly haven’t eaten all of them, we’re making a pretty good go of it!) is found at Ung Jia Huad, just a five minute walk from the infamous red light district Soi Cowboy. Here, the minced pork arrives freshly stirfried, crisp but tender (the version with larger slices of pork is actually even better, we think). The fried egg boasts frilly edges and a richly coloured, runny yolk. The holy basil is scattered generously and wilted just right. The rice is freshly steamed and on point.
Opposite the restaurant, there’s one of those beer pubs which is blessing drinkers with a fresh, constant application of mist, if you’re up for a cold one after your lunch.
Really, what more could you ask for?
When is Ung Jia Huad open? From 10am to 4pm, Monday to Friday.
How long should I expect to queue? You can usually cruise straight on in.
How much should I expect to pay? A classic pad grapao of pork is around 60 THB (£1.30).
Closest BTS/MRT: Sukhumvit MRT or Asok BTS (a 10 minute walk).
Without wishing to repeat ourselves, no list of Bangkok’s best street food would be complete without mentioning a dedicated pad Thai seller, either, and the best we’ve tried in the city is at Pad Thai Narok Taek, nicknamed ‘Mad Man Pad Thai’ for the owner’s idiosyncratic, occasionally chaotic stir frying style.
It’s an amazing version of this sometimes maligned dish – charred and grungy, and a little tart rather than cloyingly sweet, all to be enjoyed on the street right next to Plurksawet’s cart. Get the fully loaded version with all of the sweet and crunchy gubbins for the ultimate hellfire experience. With no version of pad Thai here clocking in at more than 100 THB, it’s also an absolute bargain.
When is Pad Thai Narok Saek open? Open every day except Mondays, from 4pm to 10pm.
How long should I expect to queue? You may have to wait a few minutes for a seat, but turnaround is fast here.
How much should I expect to pay? No version of the dish exceeds 100 THB (£2.20).
Closest BTS/MRT: Wongwian Yai BTS or Khlong San BTS (a 15 minute walk from either)
Ideal for comforting, nourishing five-spice braised pork knuckle…
With a prime spot just off the intersection where Charoen Krung Road and Silom Road meet, the recipe for Charoen Saeng Silom’s delectable stewed pork leg has been in the family for several generations, and you can taste that deep sense of history in every bite.
Located down a nondescript alley away from the traffic, and with street level seating that catches the sun just right during lunchtime, Charoen Saeng Silom draws the crowds, make no mistake, and often sells out long before closing time. They’re all here for the same dish; that pork leg that’s been braised in warming, medicinal Chinese spices until its liquor is gelatinous and sweet. Served over rice and with a homemade spicy sauce that’s heavy on the raw garlic, it’s seriously good value at around 150 THB (£3) a portion.
And this is one huge portion. Fortunately, the grandma here will be more than happy to (or, perhaps judging you that you weren’t able to finish a portion) bag it up for you.
When is Charoen Saeng Silom open? Open from 7am to 1pm, daily.
How long should I expect to queue? From around 11am onwards, expect to wait for 10 minutes or so for a seat.
How much should I expect to pay? Expect to pay around 150 THB (£3.30) for a serving of whole pork leg, but this could easily feed two.
Closest BTS/MRT: Saphan Taksin BTS (a 10 minute walk from there).
Though tourists and guidebooks eulogise Jay Jia Yentafo as the city’s best version of yen ta fo noodle soup, we’re even more enamoured with a peaceful shophouse found just off Sukhumvit Road, somewhere between Asok and Phrom Phong BTS stops.
At Soong Chai Yentafo, the noodles are slippery and sticky, the fish balls just the right side of fragrant, and the broth refreshing. Like, really refreshing. We’d argue that no Bangkok bowl is as refreshing as this.
Yen ta fo is a popular Thai noodle soup known for its distinctive pink broth, which gets its colour from fermented soybean paste. The dish typically includes a variety of ingredients such as fish balls, squid, morning glory, and sometimes pork or seafood. It is often garnished with fried garlic and served with a side of chilli sauce and vinegar to enhance its flavour.
When is Soong Chai Yentafo open? Open daily from 6am to 6pm.
How long should I expect to queue? Due to its location away from the main tourist areas of Sukhumvit, you won’t have to wait for a table here.
How much should I expect to pay? Expect to pay around 50 THB (£1) a bowl, though you might want to order two.
Closest BTS/MRT: Phrom Phong BTS (a 10 minute walk from there).
Ideal for Bangkok’s most Instagrammable street food dish, and so much more besides…
Alongside Jay Fai, Jay Oh might be the Bangkok street food scene’s most recognisable aunty. At Jay Oh Chula, you’ll also find one of the city’s most iconic dishes, one with such a cult following that it’s been given homage in one of London’s most exciting recent restaurant openings.
Yep, we’re talking about the tom yum mama noodles, of course, an absurdly stacked bowl of instant ramen noodles, tom yam seasoned broth that’s been thickened with evaporated milk, and all manner of other treats, including crispy pork, curls of braised squid, shell-on prawns and so much more. It’s all finished with an egg yolk because, well, why not?
It’s an indulgent, delicious sharing dish, but it’s certainly not the only thing Jay Oh excels at. In fact, the more simply adorned tom yum here is one of our favourite versions in the city, its broth rust dappled from chilli jam and clinging to the sides of the bowl as it tends to in the best renditions. The squid stir-fried in chilli jam and Thai basil are wonderfully fragrant, too. You’ll also see an almost comical number of crisp pork bellies hanging to the right hand side of the dining room, a near constant procession of plates moving across the floor. Flag a waiter down and have yourself a plate of that crispy pork before it’s gone.
Though Jay Oh gets properly rowdy later in the evening (it closes around midnight), the only way to avoid the huge queues that accumulate out front here each and every night is to arrive bang on the restaurant opens, at 5:30pm. We’ve managed to swan in at this time without a wait. By the time we’d finished eating around an hour later, queues were already snaking around the block.
When is Jay Oh open? Jay Oh is open every day, from 5:30pm to midnight.
How long should I expect to queue? Expect to queue for ages.
How much should I expect to pay? The full tom yum mama with all the fixings is currently 300 THB (£6.50). It’s built for sharing.
Closest BTS/MRT: Hua Lamphong MRT or National Stadium BTS (a hot and sweaty 15 minute walk from either.)
Ideal for a seriously luxurious curry over rice experience…
Hiso Curry Rice isn’t your standard raan khao gaeng stall. Here, there’s an emphasis on serious luxury in their curry dishes, whether it’s in the fist-sized lumps of white crab meat used in their curry powder spiked stir fry, or the huge river prawns deployed in a sweet and sticky glaze. In fact, the whole restaurant, run by chef/owner Auntie Aew, prides itself on that sense of luxury – the phrase ‘hiso’ is Thai slang for ‘high society’.
Though there’s not really any streetside seating to speak of at Hiso Curry Rice, you’re only a minute’s walk from Rommaninat Park, making this the most luxurious takeaway/picnic you’ll ever have. Do be aware that not much English is spoken here, but the enticing curries are all laid out in a row on the street, making pointing, nodding and smiling just about acceptable. Or, you know, you could just learn how to order in Thai.
When is Hiso Curry Rice open? Hiso Curry Rice is closed on Sundays and Mondays, and open from 11:30am to 5:30pm for the remaining days of the week.
How long should I expect to queue? As Hiso Curry Rice is a takeaway joint, you won’t have to wait long to make your order.
How much should I expect to pay? For a substantial feast of curry and rice for two, expect to pay no more than 200 THB (£4.35).
Closest BTS/MRT: Sam Yot MRT (a 5 minute walk from there)
At Rung Rueang Pork Noodle, just seconds from Phrom Phong BTS, you’ll find a straightforwardly satisfying bowl of clear, tom yum flavoured soup with minced pork and your choice of noodle (go for the egg) for less than a couple of quid. Also in the bowl, thick slices of liver, fish balls and thinly sliced fish cake make this a generous affair. Order, too, a side of crispy fish skin.
It’s a relentless lunchtime operation here, with a fast-moving queue on the street expected during peak hours. Arrive a little after that rush, at around 3pm, and you’ll be seated quickly.
When is Rung Rueang Pork Noodle open? Rung Rueang Pork Noodle is open every day, from 8am to 5pm.
How long should I expect to queue? Expect to queue for at least 15 minutes during the lunch rush.
How much should I expect to pay? A small bowl is 60 THB (£1.30), a medium 70 THB (£1.50) and a large 80 THB (£1.75).
Closest BTS/MRT: Phrom Phong BTS (a 5 minute walk from there).
Ideal for satisfying your sweet tooth one last time…
We end once again satisfying our sweet tooth, at a temple to all things mango; Mae Varee Mango Sticky Rice. You’ll see the sunflower-yellow piles of perfectly ripe mangos lined up outside the shop, and you’ll notice the throngs of hungry dessert lovers curled around the corner and onto Sukhumvit Road proper, and you’ll know you’ve reached sweet-tooth nirvana.
Portions are only takeaway, and are enormous. There are other sweet treats and classic Thai confection sold here, too. Result!
When is Mae Varee Mango Sticky Rice open? 6am to 10pm.
How long should I expect to queue? A takeaway only operation, the wait for your dose will only be brief during mid-morning and mid-afternoon. During the lunch and post-work rushes, expect to wait significantly longer.
How much should I expect to pay? A premium price for a premium product, this one is 150 THB (£3.25), but portions are massive.
Closest BTS/MRT: Thonglor BTS (a 2 minute walk from there)
*A word of warning! Be aware that many of the restaurants on this list close intermittently for holidays, both personal and national. The majority also don’t start serving immediately after opening. Many also sell out well in advance of their listed closing time. Always have a back up (or two).*
We’re heading north next, to Chiang Mai, in search of the city’s best khao soi. Care to join us?
The Vietnamese capital, Hanoi. At once chaotic and cerebral, sophisticated and elemental, ribald and refined, urbane and innocent, has got to be one of the most beguiling cities on the planet, whichever adjectives and dichotomies you wish to throw at it.
Eating here often presents a similar sense of contrast. Sure, there are fancy, five star (and now Michelin-starred) restaurants, refining and reimagining dishes that have remained resolutely the same for generations. And yes, some of these restaurants are interesting, thought-provoking places to dine.
But the truly elite level food in the Vietnamese capital is of course found at street level, hunched on a plastic blue stool over some steaming noodles, or leaning against a precariously parked xe om, manipulating a spoon and chopsticks with grace, your bowl teetering precariously on the saddle.
This is where the magic happens, where family recipes have seen their own kind of refinement throughout the years, where outside influences and external forces have made their mark on the food before being resoundingly, resolutely defeated, with only the best bits left over and assimilated.
Please note that prices for street food in Hanoi fluctuate, owing to supply and demand, availability of ingredients and the whim of the owner. That said, you’ll eat very well here for very little. Even the more ‘premium’ meals on our list – a full spread of dishes plus beers – won’t cost more than £10 each.
Here’s a brief rundown of our pricing key…
đ – under 33’000đ (£1) a portion
đđ – under 66’000đ (£2) a portion
đđđ – under 99’000đ (£3) a portion
đđđđ – over 100’000đ (£3) a portion
Opening & Closing Times
The vast majority of the places on our list open early for breakfast and close once they’ve sold out, usually sometime in the mid-afternoon, but often with a meandering presence throughout the day.
Several places on the IDEAL 22 are more popular for dinner or for late night eats – we’ll say explicitly when that’s the case – otherwise, assume that the opening hours are from around 7am to 4pm. All that said, you’ll still sometimes find a stall or shophouse sporadically shut for no broadcast reason. Fortunately, plenty of these restaurants are within walking distance of one another, so if you find one closed, it’s on to the next one!
None of the places on our list take reservations or can be booked in advance, or even have a website, for that matter. If it’s likely you’ll queue, again, we’ll mention it explicitly.
Most of the places on our list operate on a pull-up-a-stool system, where you’ll be perched at a low-slung table or something just a little more upright, but without a backrest. Only Cha Ca Thang Long, Pho Ly Quoc Su, Mr Bay Mien Tay and Quan An Ngon are more fully-fledged restaurants; they have proper dining chairs with a backrest, larger tables, and table service. You can take a little more time at these three, as you can at Chim Quay Bit Tet and Bit Tet Ngoc Hieu, where it’s expected that you’ll settle in for a few beers and a bit of a session.
Anyway, you get the picture; things are a little unpredictable price and timing wise, but you are pretty much guaranteed an amazing meal if you stick around with us. So, once again, here are our IDEAL 22 places to eat the best street food in Hanoi.
Map Of The Best Street Food Spots In Hanoi
Banh Mi Pate, 11 Hang Ca, Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter)
Ideal for a textbook version of Vietnam’s world famous filled baguette…
If you’re looking for one of the best banh mi spots in Hanoi, then head to Hang Ca street and look for the throng of tourists collected under a neon ‘A LOAF OF SMILES’ sign, clutching their branded Banh Mi 25 sarnies.
Then, ignore that bricks and mortar operation, and head down the road and turn right, to a more randomly cobbled together collection of street side stools, a floor fan and a tarpaulin roof, and look for the words Banh My Pate. You have found the place.
Indeed, Banh Mi Pate at 11 Hang Ca, just yards from the supremely popular but ultimately disappointing Banh Mi 25 (sweet, weirdly ‘Western’ in flavour), actually serves a much better banh mi. The baguette here boasts just the right level of crisp exterior and giving centre, and has been hollowed out just a little rather than being completely gutted ‘till it’s a shell of its former self.
All of this bread chat is in the name of letting the eponymous pate (number 4 on the menu) do the proper talking. To us, this particular order – we repeat; number 4 – filled generously with lots of that pate, some salty af pork floss, some pickles, coriander and hot sauce, is the city’s best sandwich. And we’ve eaten a lot of them.
Best enjoyed in the mid-morning when the baguettes are crisp and fresh and the pre-work motorbike rush hour has dissipated, this is one to savour in the coffee shop opposite, on a low slung stool, with a thick, sweet iced coffee. Heaven.
Bun Bo Nam Bo, 47 Tran Quoc Toan, Hai Ba Trung District
Ideal for crispy pork over sweet, spicy noodles, all served with a mountain of interesting herbs…
There are few prettier streets in Hanoi than Tran Quoc Toan, a little sidestreet that peels off the always jammed Ba Trieu thoroughfare to reveal a leafy promenade with plenty of cute coffee shops, banh mi stalls and noodle joints.
We’ve come to this attractive corner of the so-called French Quarter for the latter, to Bun Bo Nam Bo at 47 Tran Quoc Toan. Weirdly, we’ve not come for the headlining dish – the admittedly excellent South Vietnamese noodle stir-fry/salad bun bo nam bo. Instead, we’re pitching up for the restaurant’s other speciality; hu tieu, which is utterly superb here.
A semi-dry noodle dish in a sweet, salty, peanut-heavy broth, the hu tieu here is topped with the crispiest of deep-fried pork and a good handful of crispy shallots. Alongside, a bowl of herbs – some bitter, some refreshing, with nettles, green and purple perilla leaf, lettuce and more – is all there to be mixed through the bowl and to cradle some of that dressing.
God, it’s good, and lifted to even dizzier heights still by a spritz of calamansi lime. Gratis, never-ending iced jasmine tea is the perfect accompaniment, but they do serve beer if you’ve come to be uncouth.
This place is wildly popular with the lunch break crowd, with office workers piling in between midday and 1pm. During this hour, you might have to wait for ten minutes or so to get seated. Fortunately, there are two floors and plenty more hours in the day that this shophouse is open. The particularly stern hostess at number 47, taking payments and dishing out a few insults, is all part of the fun.
Cha Ca Thang Long, 6B Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter)
Ideal for turmeric marinated fish, fried at the table…
Within Hanoi’s tangle of old streets lays a place so revered that it has attained an almost mystical status. Cha Ca La Vong, on Cha Ca street – named after the famous dish – has been serving the same dish, and only that dish, for hundreds of years.
Catfish marinated in turmeric arrives at your table in a frying pan, sizzling away. You tend to it lovingly until it’s cooked before assembling yourself a bowl of cold, sour noodles, loads of fresh herbs and a pokey, dangerous looking fish sauce. Pop a piece of fish in there and prepare for ambrosia. Flavours are elegant and sophisticated, and just the right side of unusual. The home of the dish, Cha Ca La Vong often full to the rafters and obviously booking is not an option in a place of such heritage, but if you can get a seat, you must.
But – even though it is good – we’re not eating at Cha Ca La Vong in our rundown of Hanoi’s best places to eat street food. Instead, we’re heading round the corner, to Cha Ca Thang Long, which we think does an even better version, the catfish just that little bit plumper, the dill fresher and grassier, the dish just a touch more captivating, and the space more welcoming.
Cha ca, wherever you’re having it, is usually accompanied by a simple dipping sauce of fish sauce, sugar, lime and sliced red chilli, but for those who enjoy the funky flavours of fermented fish, make sure to request a side of mam tom, a traditional Vietnamese dipping sauce made from fermented shrimp paste. It is known for its strong, pungent aroma and distinctive, salty flavour. Not obligatorily served to foreigners, you’ll need to request this one especially, but the good folk at Cha Ca Thang Long will be impressed that you did.
This one is best for dinner, with a few friends and a few bottles of Bia Hanoi (really, Saigon tastes a little nicer to us, but when in Rome) accompanying the spread. That spread costs around 200’000đ for two people. For that, the equivalent of £6, you get the fish and all its re-upable accouterments, and a real sense of a special occasion when the sizzling pan hits the table.
Be warned (or, perhaps, be spoiled); Duong Thanh street has three different outposts of this restaurant, all with the same name and run by the same family. 6B just feels like the most convivial and spacious of the three to us.
Banh Cuon Ba Hoanh, 66 To Hien Thanh, Hai Ba Trung District
Ideal for some of the most supremely delicate steamed rice rolls in the city…
The roads off key Hai Ba Trung thoroughfare Ba Trieu are some of Hanoi’s most essential for street food, and your options for lunch can feel pretty much limitless in this part of town. But reliably, resolutely, locals make a beeline for Ba Hoanh’s increasingly sprawling operation on To Hien Thanh when hunger or boredom pushes them to do so.
Here the banh cuon is the texture of premium Vietnamese silk, spread so thinly across the steaming cloth that it becomes almost translucent, barely there, yet somehow holding together as it’s skilfully peeled off and filled with minced pork and wood ear mushrooms.
The ratio is spot on – there’s just enough filling to provide substance without overwhelming the delicate rice paper, which is, of course, the main present rather than just the gift wrapper. The accompanying Vietnamese cha lua is particularly good, too – bouncy, porcine and with just a hint of white pepper.
What’s intriguing about Ba Hoanh is the dipping sauce; sweet, sour and salty, as it should be, but more soup-sized than normal, and with the unmistakable grilled pork belly bits from a bun cha bobbing around in there. We soon realise it’s a byproduct of the fact this banh cuon slinger also sells bun cha, which is unusual for Hanoi’s street food scene, where a myopic single-dish focus is typically a mark of quality. They also do bun rieu cua here. Both are excellent, flying in the face of conventional wisdom. But we’re not arguing.
Neither are Ba Hoanh’s legions of fans. The place has expanded over the years, now boasting a second dining room (complete with murky fish tanks at the back) to accommodate the constant flow of customers.
This is breakfast food at its finest, best enjoyed mid-morning when fresh batches are still being produced and the day hasn’t yet heated up. The space might have grown, but the quality hasn’t wavered.
Mr Bay Mien Tay, 79 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter)
Ideal for crispy, crackling banh xeo in the heart of the Old Quarter…
Banh xeo – the ultimate onomatopoeic dish of crisp, golden rice flour pancakes that sizzle in the pan and crackle as you fold them – might hail from central Vietnam, but Mr Bảy has been serving up an exemplary version in the Old Quarter for the best part of a decade.
This is a rare, rare thing in Hanoi, where it’s tough to find a bonafide street food version of banh xeo (the majority are tepid renditions in generic Vietnamese dining rooms called things like Green Mango or Lotus Flower).
The name here translates as ‘Mr Seven from the Southwest’, and true to his Mekong Delta roots, Bay has nailed his local dish. The pancake itself achieves that ideal state of being paper-thin yet somehow structurally sound, its edges lacy and shatteringly crisp from the hot sizzle, and all pliable enough to fold around its filling of poached pork, baby prawns and bean sprouts.
Unlike those tourist-oriented spots in Hanoi that serve their banh xeo with a heavy hand on the turmeric (a sleight of hand that results in pancakes that look impressive but taste muddy), Mr Bay’s version is restrained, allowing the sweetness of the prawns and the salty depth of the pork to come through.
The real joy here is in the assembly, of course – tearing off a piece of the crispy pancake, wrapping it in fresh lettuce and herbs (loads of perilla, Vietnamese coriander and mint, lettuce), before dunking the whole parcel in the house nuoc mam.
Another nod to Mr Bay’s heritage are the excellent grilled baby catfish skewers – smoky, charred whole fish (straightened and skewered) that taste unmistakably of the Mekong, bitter and a little earthy, sure, but beguiling too. They’re a perfect precursor to the banh xeo, adding another layer to what becomes a proper spread.
The tight little dining room doesn’t spill out onto Hang Dieu street – that would result in accidents on what is a busy, chaotic street – and things are kept cosy and contained. Service is swift, and whilst the menu does extend beyond banh xeo to include a few other southern specialities, the pancakes and those catfish skewers are unequivocally what you’re here for.
Xoi Yen, 35B Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter)
Ideal for the ultimate Vietnamese comfort food of sticky rice and toppings…
Located just a minute or two from Hoan Kiem lake, Xoi Yen is a culinary institution in the city, renowned for its variety of sticky rice dishes (xoi), which are topped with a range of savoury ingredients such as shredded chicken, braised pork belly pieces, pork floss, peanuts, Chinese sausage, hard boiled eggs, and pate. A grated ball of cooked, compressed mung bean seeds tops every bowl.
Xoi Yen is the city’s most popular spot for xoi, and is packed out from breakfast to late-night, offering a taste of traditional Vietnamese comfort food that fills you up for breakfast or soaks up the liquor late at night. Or both; we’ve been known to bookend a day with the dish.
The sticky rice here is cooked to perfection, with a slightly chewy texture that makes it easy to eat with your hands – as it should be – and forms the anchor for the array of customisable treats. Though you could order your sticky rice ‘tat ca’ (with everything), we prefer a more carefully curated collection, usually of pate, Chinese sausage and egg. A zigzag of the ubiquitous Vietnamese chilli sauce condiment Chin Su, viscous, sweet and spicy, sends everything on its way.
Do be aware that this corner of Nguyen Huu Huan street happens to have not one but two of the best purveyors in town; right next to each other. Rumour has it that one family run shop fractured into two following an affair between husband and sister in law. Whichever one you choose to side with, it’s guaranteed to be delicious, but we prefer the one at 35B. Look for a big black and yellow sign; ‘Xoi Yen’.
Quan Mien Luon Phuc, 152 Lac Trung, Hai Ba Trung District
Ideal for crispy eel noodles…
Mien Luon is a traditional Hanoian dish that combines humble ingredients to glorious effect. Here mien – slightly chewy, sticky glass noodles made from mung bean starch – sit beneath a tangle of luon (river eels), all crunchy and alluring from a deep, hard fry. Also in the bowl, positioned off to one side in case you’d prefer not to go green, is a heap of baby perilla leaves, which bring their unique fuzzy bitterness to the party, and some gently picked cucumbers.
The dish is often served with a clear, light broth (this one is called mien luon nuoc, which means water) made from eel bones, or in a dry version (mien luon tron), where the noodles and eel are to be mixed with a rich, spicy dressing.
For us, going dry results in the best version of this texturally invigorating dish. At Quan Mien Luon Phuc on the outskirts of the Hai Ba Trung district, you’ll find one of the city’s most exemplary versions. Sure, you’ll have to travel into more residential Hanoi for a taste, but it’s well worth the effort. Pile on a good scoop of the restaurant’s homemade chilli sauce; it lifts and lightens the whole thing. Now, it’s time to get crunching.
Pho Ly Quoc Su, 10 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter)
Ideal for the best beef noodle soup in the city (and, therefore, by rights, the world)…
Congratulations! You got this far through our rundown of the best street food in Hanoi without questioning when we were going to get to the headliner. Well, that time has arrived; it’s time to eat Hanoi-style beef pho.
You might have to wait a while or – heaven forbid – share your fourtop with some other tourists at Pho Ly Quoc Su for a bowl of the good stuff, but the service is brusque and efficient, and the chefs (visible through a glass partition constantly ladelling bowls of the good stuff) work quickly.
Once you’ve settled in, ordering is easy, with menus boasting English translations placed under the glass surface of every table, visible to all. Order the tai gau version – the move for those in the know – which sees fatty, long-braised brisket and slices of raw beef sharing the bowl.
Here, the brisket is thinly sliced and tender, with its mellow, yellow fat gently melting into the broth, causing those all-important globules to dapple the soup’s service. An unctuous mouthfeel awaits. The hot broth half cooks the raw slices, leaving them beautifully tender.
That broth itself is on the lighter side, just a little cloudy (as it should be), and refreshing, savoury and obscenely moreish. The rice noodles are slippery and have the right bite, as in, not much bite at all. Indeed, many a pho in the UK has been ruined by al dente noodles, but not so here.
Add a little of Pho LQS’s homemade chilli sauce and a dash of the liquid from their pickled garlic, and luxuriate in an absolutely exemplary version of the national dish. Phwoar.
Do be warned (this time, really be warned); Pho Ly Quoc Su has many branches in Hanoi, of which all but three are imitators, rather than sanctioned franchises. Don’t be fooled by the bright orange frontage you’ll occasionally see across the city; it’s at number 10 on actual, genuine Ly Quoc Su street in the Old Quarter that you’ll find the legit Pho Ly Quoc Su restaurant.
During busier hours (between around 11am and 2pm) you might have to wait for ten minutes or so to get seated.
Pho Gia Truyen Bat Dan, 49 Bat Dan, Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter)
Ideal for – hang on – an even better beef noodle soup (why not have both?)…
All of those superlatives aside, Pho Ly Quoc Su might not even be the finest beef noodle soup in Ha Noi. That honour – and this is something of a rare consensus, it should be said – is found on Bat Dan street, at number 49.
You won’t miss it, as the snaking queue of hungry locals stands testament to the quality of the bowls within this little family run shop. Service is cursory on a good day, and you’ll need to juggle a boiling hot bowl of soup while you jostle for a stool, but genuinely, honestly and with truth, it is worth it.
You’ll see the beef briskets hanging in the doorframe (there is no window here – the shophouse opens fully out onto the street), their hulking frames swaying enticingly on their hooks, their fat shimmering enticingly. There are only three options; tai, tai nam or chin, which is rare beef, rare beef and braised flank, and braised brisket, respectively.
Our heart lies in the latter camp with the pho bo chin, all to get a taste of those swinging briskets. It’s a deeper, richer broth than Pho LQS, perhaps better suited to Hanoi’s surprisingly chilly winters, whilst the one at Ly Quoc Su is more of a summery affair. You could, of course, have both in a single sitting – Bat Dan is only just round the corner from Ly Quoc Su.
Enjoy with quay – the only accompaniment to proper pho – which is, in taste, akin to a savoury donut, and in appearance a dog bone. It takes on the flavour of the soup perfectly.
Expect to queue here, though you shouldn’t be waiting more than around 20 minutes, even during busy times.
Banh Tom Ho Tay, Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho (West Lake)
Ideal for pillowy, sweet shrimp cakes with lakeside views…
Banh Tom is a traditional Vietnamese seafood dish that originates in Hanoi. It’s a simple thing; fresh, pink, pert shell-on prawns are suspended in a sweet potato batter before the whole thing is deep fried. Served alongside is the obligatory dipping sauce and plate of fresh herbs, of course, the latter in this instance designed for wrapping up the sweet, delicious cakes for a one-bite-wonder situation.
The home of these shrimp cakes – fritters, really – is West Lake, Hanoi’s largest with a whopping 17km circumference. On bright, clear days when the lake’s waters lap, taking up position on one of the many, many cafe deckchairs that line the lake can feel very much like a day out at the seaside. And what better snack to enjoy in such environs than banh tom?
On route to Dang Thai Mai street, where you’ll find those lakeside deck chairs, you’ll see banh tom purveyors with elaborate displays of their shrimp cakes piled high pyramidically. Order a few to takeaway for a sunset dinner with a view, because this is one hell of a view across the water, the twinkling lights of Hanoi city reflecting on West Lake’s shimmering waters.
Pho Ga Nguyet, 5B Phu Doan, Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter)
Ideal for chicken pho in salad form…
Light, herbaceous, restorative chicken pho in Hanoi is its own thing, a world away from the beef version’s assertive savouriness and rich mouthfeel. In fact, as a broad rule, if a shophouse or stall serves both chicken and beef pho, it’s fair to assume that neither is the greatest rendition, the two disciplines not interchangeable by any means.
Just outside of the Old Quarter proper, on Phu Doan, a stretch of road defined by garages and motorbike repairs, you’ll find one of Hanoi’s best versions of chicken pho at Pho Ga Nguyet.
Two key moves with your order here; request the dark chicken meat, which is so much more flavourful (the white breast meat is automatically allocated to non-Viets) and order the dish ‘tron’ – or dry. That’s where Pho Ga Nguyet really excels, the standard noodle soup turned into a gorgeous noodle salad, with a chicken fat and soy sauce spiked dressing that coats every damn noodle strand.
The main man here, wielding the cleaver all evening in the shophouse’s entrance, speaks a little English, and is a charming presence. Owing to the shophouse’s daytime operations fixing motorbikes and revving engines, Pho Ga Nguyet is an evening only affair.
During the dinner rush (between 6pm and around 7:30pm), you might have to wait five minutes to get a seat.
Bun Rieu Cua, 11 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter)
Ideal for a seriously refreshing bowl of crab and tomato noodle soup…
Bun rieu cua is something of a hidden gem in the Vietnamese culinary repertoire, at least in the UK. This noodle soup, again hailing from Hanoi, features a rust-coloured, tomato-based broth that hums with the savoury essence of freshwater crab roe, creating a unique, umami-heavy aromatic foundation.
The soup is typically garnished with a variety of fresh herbs, such as perilla and coriander, twists of shredded banana blossom, and deep-fried tofu. Cubes of congealed pig’s blood and snails also sometimes feature – both a welcome added treat, for sure.
The noodles used are thin rice vermicelli, which absorb the broth beautifully. The usual customisation is encouraged, with lime wedges, chilli sauce and shrimp paste all available for the diner to get busy with.
It’s such a refreshing bowl, cleansing and rehydrating on the most humid of Hanoi days. In the corridor-like space of 11 Hang Bac in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, arguably the best bowl in the city is served.
Chim Quay Bit Tet, 20 Hang Giay, Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter)
Ideal for bronzed and burnished whole barbecued pigeon and lots and lots of fresh beer…
Just yards from Hanoi’s famous Bia Hoi Corner, where you can enjoy an aperitif and digestiv, Chim Quay Bit Tet serves glazed, barbecued whole pigeons, hacked into bite size pieces and served in a mound, head, tail and all, with a spicy salt and calamansi lime dip. This is one to attack with your hands, on a low slung stool, with several icy beers and plenty of cheersing your neighbours. There really isn’t much more to say than that.
Oh, except the deep-fried frog’s legs are excellent, too; you’ll want to order a plate of those, as well as some stir fried morning glory and a bowl of steamed rice, for a full, complementary table. The whole thing shouldn’t cost you and a friend much more than a fiver.
Ideal for Hanoi’s ultimate lunchtime dish, given a subtle twist…
You’ll smell Bun Cha 34 even before you see the commotion of diners jostling for stools on the pavement outside the premises. It’s one of Hanoi’s most singular and inviting aromas; the smell of marinated pork gently catching and caramelising on a tiny makeshift barbecue, a portable fan blowing on it, fanning the flames and spreading the enticing aroma far and wide. Catching a smell of it has been known to stop passing motorbikes in their tracks; a risky business in a city of risky road related businesses, make no mistake.
Bun cha is perhaps the quintessential Hanoi dish, a porky paradise of grilled patties and slices of marinated belly, which are charred to perfection over an open flame. The meat is then piled – always generously – in a bowl of lightly sweetened, slightly vinegary fish sauce-based broth, accompanied by a generous portion of fresh herbs and pickled squares of papaya and carrot.
Bu vinhdav from Getty Images
Thin rice vermicelli noodles are served alongside, allowing diners to dip them into the broth and combine with the grilled pork, which is, admittedly, pretty hard to pull off owing to bun noodles’ inherent stickiness. Fortunately, an aunty is always on hand with a pair of scissors, ready to make the whole dance easier.
The bun cha at Bun Cha 34 is distinctive in that the usual pork patties have been wrapped in wild piper leaf before being grilled, imparting a complex smokey bitterness to both the meat and the broth it rests in. The deep-fried spring rolls are awesome here too; not one bit greasy and served in a pleasing stack that you’ll demolish without a second glance.
Bun Cha 34, as is the rule for this beloved Hanoi dish, is only open for lunch. In fact, it’s incredibly rare that you’ll find bun cha served outside of lunchtime hours anywhere in the city.
Though at first glance Bun Cha 34 might look full, there’s always a corner, side table or extra stool to squeeze into.
Bun Cha Dac Kim, 1 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter)
Ideal for arguably Hanoi’s premier bun cha spot…
Another of Hanoi’s most iconic bun cha spots – arguably its most lauded and popular – isn’t far from 34, over on Hang Manh in the Old Quarter.
Here, the pork patties are comically large – almost burger size – and the plates of herbs are piled even higher than usual. Yep, though bun cha always feels like a super generous affair, everything at Bun Cha Dac Kim feels a little extra. That said, who’s complaining about massive portions when the dish is this good?
By Infel2nOz via Canva
Though Bun Cha Dac Kim might initially look full, there are a couple of floors out of view where there’s a little more dining space. Some of the adjacent coffee shops have also been known to let you pitch up with your bun cha, providing you buy a coffee or juice.
Known locally as ‘Chicken Street’ – on the map it’s Ly Van Phuc – Hanoi has a whole street dedicated to serving barbecued poultry. What could be better? On a weekend, if you have a large group, it’s one of the best places in the city to come, get loose and make merry. While it’s kinda out of the way – take a taxi to the National Stadium and work from there if you’re not on a scooter – and a little hard to find, the smell of ‘ga’ on the grill is unmissable.
You can choose between different parts of the chicken – a little thigh and a little liver is our usual vibe – and be sure to order a side of the grilled banh mi bread brushed with honey. The refreshing pickled cucumbers brought to every table are the perfect accompaniment – don’t be afraid to ask for more.
Though the temptation will of course be to head to the bottom of Chicken Street, next to the car park where everyone seems to be having the best time, we’ve found the grilled chicken served right at the entrance to Ly Van Phuc to be the best. And, to be honest, the most thoroughly cooked; it’s dark down at the end of Chicken Street and sometimes the chicken comes up looking pretty pink.
Though we realise we said ‘street food’ in the title, we’d be remiss to offer a rundown of the best places to eat street food in Hanoi without mentioning Quan An Ngon, a restaurant with air conditioning, proper upright seats with back support, and a whole host of different street food purveyors all surrounding the central dining room.
Since so many great Hanoi restaurants and shophouses specialise in a single dish, Quan An Ngon is a wonderful place to try various regional Vietnamese specialities all in one sitting. It’s an attractive, convivial space with a large central alfresco dining area illuminated by lanterns, fairy lights and an always buzzy atmosphere. The menu has English translations and the staff speak a little, too, making the restaurant a chilled out place for a decent feed. The salads here are particularly good, as is the banh xeo, a type of crispy rice pancake filled with minced pork and prawns.
Quan An Ngon is open for lunch through to dinner and beyond, closing at around 10pm. There are a couple of other branches in the French Quarter, too, which are equally as good.
Banh Goi Ly Quoc Su is the kind of place you dream about long after you’ve left Hanoi. A low slung, chilled out spot slap bang in the bustling streets of the Old Quarter, this place serves up some of the best banh goi in Hanoi. Imagine a crispy, golden pastry shell stuffed with a savoury mix of minced pork, mushrooms, vermicelli and quail eggs that’s somewhere between a samosa and a Cornish pasty. If you’re in Hanoi, missing this would be a culinary crime.
Banh Cuon Gia Truyen, 14 Hang Ga, Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter)
Ideal for the most elegant expression of Vietnamese cuisine, on the street…
Vietnamese food is well known for its lightness and sophistication, and no dish better encapsulates this than banh cuon, the supremely delicate steamed rice rolls that you’ll see aunties meticulously making across the city.
On a circular surface, a silky batter of rice flour is spread into a thin layer and steamed until translucent, before being filled with a mixture of minced pork and wood ear mushrooms and rolled. It’s a mesmerising spectacle, and one whose dexterity would be impressive in a well-appointed fine dining kitchen, let alone on a street corner.
Once these rolls have been skilfully shifted onto a small plate, deep-fried shallots and fresh herbs are scattered on top. The usual nuoc cham dipping sauce seals the deal.
Interestingly, at Banh Cuon Gia Truyen, one of Hanoi’s most famous banh cuon restaurants, you can order a small spritz of water bug essence (ca cuong) in your dipping sauce, which tastes a little like bubblegum. Order a slice or two of Vietnamese pork sausage (cha lua) to go alongside.
We’d been regulars of that particular spot, Bun Cha Huong Lien, for years prior to the show, but following its broadcast and name change to ‘Obama Bun Cha’, standards – perhaps unsurprisingly – slipped.
Not to worry. Give the tour coaches unloading onto Le Van Huu a swerve and instead head directly next door for one of the best chicken noodle soups in the city, at Pho Ga Mai Anh.
This is one clean broth, totally clear and boasting a crystalline flavour not unlike a chicken consomme. Aside from tender poached chicken meat, a couple of bouncy chicken balls (snigger) and soft rice noodles, only a few slices of the green of spring onions bother the bowl. Seemingly, a judgement has been made that any other herbs would only muddy the broth. We think it’s a good shout, as Mai Anh’s chicken pho really is a celebration of that replenishing broth.
Sometimes for fun, we order a side of poached chicken to eat with our chicken pho at Pho Ga Mai Anh. It’s served with bouncy yellow skin still intact, its flesh tender and silky. A few finely julienned makrut lime leaves and a side of chilli salt and calamansi lime (to be combined) complete this feast of chicken. A tall glass of iced jasmine tea is all you need now.
Bit Tet Ngoc Hieu, 52 Le Ngoc Han, Hai Ba Trung District
Ideal for steak and chips, Vietnamese-style…
Bit tet, like banh mi, is a reflection of Vietnam’s ability to take on international influences and seamlessly assimilate them into the cuisine.
The dish is centred around a thin, semi-tender beef steak, which is marinated with a blend of soy sauce, garlic, and black pepper before being cooked in a laughably, violently hot, cow-shaped cast iron pan that doubles up as a serving dish. A silver bow-cum-hat tops the pan as it arrives at the table before the big reveal. Inside that pan, you’ll also find a sunny side up egg, a few soggy chips and perhaps a tomato, flavours mingling happily.
At Bit Tet Ngoc Hieu, alongside the classic hammered steak and spongy chips, you’ll find a ball of offaly, peppery goodness akin to a faggot in flavour. It’s what marks out this bit tet restaurant as the best in Hanoi. Mop up all of the intermingling egg yolk, meat juices and chilli sauce run-off with plenty of crisp, banh mi bread. Mop that up with icy beers. Leave happy and on foot – don’t drink and drive guys.
Though Ngoc Hieu is a little out of the city centre, there’s also a whole street (Hoe Nhai) dedicated to bit tet within walking distance of the Old Quarter. Result!
Banh Mi Pho Hue, 118 Pho Hue, Hai Ba Trung District
Ideal for prosaic, proper banh mi that’s always got a queue of motorbikes…
For us, the most simple banh mi is the best banh mi, allowing the quality of the bread, pate and cold cuts to shine. The ludicrously stacked affairs with a mixed grill’s worth of meat inside, plus mayo, three types of hot sauce, a random papaya salad and erroneous Thai basil that you’ll find in the UK? Those guys are not for us.
For a prosaic, proper banh mi whose popularity is clear from its constant queue of motorbikes, you’ll want to venture away from the Old Quarter, heading north from Hoan Kiem lake and the Old Quarter, and into one of Hai Ba Trung’s main thoroughfares, Pho Hue.
At Banh Mi Pho Hue, it’s a celebration of the simple things. The aunty’s mise en place is as follows… Stacks of warm baguettes. A massive brick of homemade pate. A few slices of Vietnamese pork loaf (essentially spam). A bowl of pork floss. Cucumber pickle. Butter. Dairylea. Chilli sauce. There’s also a pan set-up should you want to add an omelette to your banh mi.
Assemble your desired sandwich from that selection, and eat outside the shophouse leaning against a tree, because the dining area is full of parked motorbikes. Everything feels right in the world.
Ghe Hap Xuan Xuan, 37 Hang Giay, Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter)
Ideal for premium grilled seafood on stools…
On the periphery of the backpacker part of Hanoi’s Old Quarter (Bia Hoi Corner, Ta Hien, Luong Ngoc Quyen), you’ll find a few totally alfresco set-ups serving up fresh, delicious seafood late into the night.
At Ghe Hap Xuan Xuan on Hang Giay, but also all along nearby Cau Go street, you’ll see crabs, oysters, blood cockles and huge prawns all piled high on a table. Simply point at what you want, take a seat and get ready for a feast because here is where you’ll find fresh seafood being grilled over hot coals. Served simply, with a calamansi lime, MSG and chilli dipping sauce, this is fresh, cheap and oh so fun.
Make sure you order some grilled oysters topped with crispy shallots – the smokey, moody taste of the barbecue certainly does no harm to the saline richness of oysters. In fact, it’s a divine marriage. Then someone, from somewhere, will produce a cold beer as soon as you realise you’re thirsty, and it’s then that you realise you’re in heaven.
Pho Cuon Huong Mai, 25 Ngu Xa, Truc Bach, Ba Dinh District
Ideal for a final expression of pho, in Hanoi’s cutest quarter…
Pho cuon offers a unique twist on the traditional pho. Instead of the usual noodle soup, this dish features wide, uncut sheets of rice noodles that are used to wrap a variety of fresh ingredients. The rolls are typically filled with slices of stir-fried beef and fresh herbs, along with crisp lettuce and sometimes julienned vegetables such as carrots and cucumbers. These ingredients are tightly rolled into the rice noodle sheets, creating a neat and portable package ideal for being dipped in a sauce of fish sauce, lime juice, garlic, sugar, and chilli
Ngu Xa, sitting just off Hanoi’s picturesque, idyllic Truc Bach lake, is sometimes referred to as Pho Cuon street, owing to its row of restaurants specialising in the stuff. Bouncing from restaurant to restaurant, drinking beer and ordering plates of this light-as-you-like local delicacy, is one of Hanoi’s greatest nights out. We think we might just part ways here, you know, and take in the scene a while…
Ngo Dong Xuan, Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter): Known locally as ‘Street Food Alley’, Ngo Dong Xuan is as close as you’ll get to the hawker centres of Malaysia and Singapore in Hanoi, with rows of street food vendors doing their thing here, all in tropical storm-proof surrounds. The aforementioned bun cha, banh tom and banh mi are all found here, as well as a good version of bun oc – snail noodles.
For something a little different, why not check out our rundown of the best pizza in Hanoi next?
Forget everything you’ve heard about Mykonos shutting down for winter. While the beach clubs pack away their sunbeds and cruise ships disappear, a different island emerges between October and March. This isn’t the sanitised summer version sold in travel brochures – it’s a working island where fishing boats replace pleasure craft and winter storms reveal centuries of architectural ingenuity.
From November to March, average temperatures hover between 8-15°C (46-59°F), perfect for exploring without summer’s intense heat. Yes, you’ll need a warm jacket. Yes, some days bring dramatic storms. But these same conditions create experiences you’ll never find in high season.
Explore Fokos Beach In Storm Season
From November to February, the dramatic waves at Fokos Beach on the northern coast create a spectacular scene entirely different from its summer calm. The best storm-watching happens two hours before sunset, when the light catches the spray from waves hitting the eastern headland. Park at the end of the tarmac road – the dirt track becomes treacherous after rain.
The abandoned copper mines visible from the beach access road tell a hidden story of 1930s industrial ambition. Look for the remains of the old mineworkers’ path zigzagging down the cliff. Pack waterproofs and sturdy boots – this exposed coastline gets the full force of the winter meltemi winds, and the natural stone path – beautifully buffed by the elements – gets slippery.
Watch Winter Fishing At The Old Port
Mykonos’s Old Port transforms from tourist hub to working harbour between October and March. The real action happens between 6:30-8am when the caïques (traditional fishing boats) unload their catch directly onto the stone quay beside the harbour wall. The morning fish market here is pure theatre – look for the spanking fresh red mullet and sea bream laid out on beds of seaweed-covered ice.
Winter specialities include local squid, at its best in early winter, skorpina (scorpion fish) and sargos (white sea bream), both considered at their best in January. The harbourmaster’s office, in the whitewashed building with blue trim, posts daily weather updates that the fishing fleet uses – these detailed local forecasts are more reliable than any app. And of course, any local taverna buying a batch is one you want to be giving your patronage by lunch time!
The island’s second-largest settlement, centered around the working monastery of Panagia Tourliani (founded 1542), reveals its true character in winter. The monastery’s silver icon collection is open to visitors year-round – ring the bell at the side gate rather than the main entrance in winter. The marble fountain in the courtyard, carved in 1767, is particularly worth studying.
The village square’s tavernas transform in winter – look for handwritten signs advertising winter specialities like revithada (chickpea stew) and local goat soup. Between October and April, the square fills with locals after Sunday morning service, when the kafenions serve souma (local grape spirit) with dried figs.
The Bonis Windmill, part of the Agricultural Museum network, offers year-round access to its restored grinding mechanism. Winter reveals the ingenious architecture – watch how the adjustable sail system handles sudden wind changes, and notice the drainage channels carved into the foundation stones.
The best time to visit is during or just after rain, when you can see the water management system in action. The current caretaker maintains a fascinating collection of local weather lore in his logbook – worth asking to see if you speak some Greek.
Photograph Storm Seas At Little Venice
The medieval waterfront houses of Little Venice were built by shipping merchants to withstand winter storms. During northerly winds (most common December-February), waves crash dramatically against the buildings’ foundations. The stretch between Kapitanios and Skaros provides the best storm-watching vantage points – look for the worn grooves in the stone steps where centuries of waves have carved patterns.
The buildings’ ingenious water-deflecting architecture becomes obvious in winter: notice how the overhanging upper floors are angled to direct spray back into the sea. Early morning brings the most dramatic light, especially during the winter solstice when the sun rises directly behind the waves. Sunset in Little Venice is equally breathtaking, regardless of the season.
Walk The Vioma-Ano Mera Trail
The well-marked 4km path between Mykonos Vioma Organic Farm (a starting point rather than available for a visit – it’s closed from November to April) and Ano Mera offers one of the island’s most accessible winter walks. Starting from the vineyard, the route follows ancient field boundaries marked by traditional xerolithies (dry stone walls) that have stood for centuries. In winter, when the summer crowds have departed, you can clearly see how these walls were engineered to prevent soil erosion during the rainy season.
The path passes the whitewashed chapel of Agios Lazaros, usually closed but worth examining for its traditional Cycladic architectural features including a distinctive triple-bell arch. The final approach to Ano Mera offers views across the valley to Panagia Tourliani Monastery, particularly striking in winter when the air is clear and the dome stands out against dark storm clouds. Note that parts of the path can become muddy after rain – avoid walking for at least a day after heavy precipitation.
Visit The Maritime Museum
Housed in a 19th-century sea captain’s mansion in Tria Pigadia, the Maritime Museum boasts winter opening hours that allow unhurried exploration of its collections. The most fascinating exhibits are the navigation instruments and ships’ logs from the 1800s, showing how captains handled winter storms before modern weather forecasting.
The building itself is worth studying – notice how the windows on the seaward side are smaller and set deeper into the walls for storm protection. The museum’s winter visiting hours (10am-2pm, Tuesday-Saturday) coincide with the best light for photography in the nautical instrument room.
Walk The Lighthouse Route
The 19th-century Armenistis Lighthouse stands on Mykonos’s northwestern tip, accessible via a maintained coastal path from Agios Stefanos. The winter route requires more care but offers better views – on clear days between November and February, you can see all the way to Tinos and sometimes even Syros.
The lighthouse, still operational and managed by the Hellenic Navy Lighthouse Service, is most dramatic during the early morning hours when winter storms approach from the north. Time your visit for sunrise (check local times – they vary significantly through winter) to see the light’s beam cutting through storm clouds. The path is well-maintained but can be slippery after rain – proper hiking boots are essential.
Experience Delos In Winter
While summer crowds cross to Delos daily, winter boats run only when weather permits (typically 3-4 days per week from October to March). Check schedules at the Old Port ticket office the day before – the morning boat (departing 10am) usually has the best chance of running in winter weather.
Winter visitors can explore the Temple of Apollo and the Terrace of the Lions in solitude. The site’s drainage systems, originally built by the Romans, still work perfectly – watch how rainfall is channeled through the ancient city via a network of gutters and cisterns. The museum’s winter hours (9am-3pm) mean you can time your visit to catch the best light on the mosaics.
While summer crowds cross to Delos daily, winter boats run only when weather permits (typically 3-4 days per week from October to March). Check ferry tickets at the Old Port ticket office the day before – the morning boat (departing 10am) usually has the best chance of running in winter weather.
Explore The Folklore Museum
Located in a restored 18th-century house near the Old Port, the Folklore Museum maintains regular winter hours (11am-4pm, Monday-Friday). The winter exhibits focus on traditional island life during the off-season – don’t miss the collection of storm lanterns and the displays showing how houses were winterized using seaweed insulation.
The building’s traditional rain-collection system remains active – look up in the courtyard to see the elaborate network of gutters and pipes that channel rainwater into the ancient cistern below. On rainy days, you can hear water moving through the original terracotta pipes inside the walls.
Experience Local Winter Festivals
Mykonos’s religious calendar comes alive between December and March, offering glimpses of island traditions that predate tourism entirely. The Feast of Agios Nikolaos (6th December), patron saint of sailors, sees the Old Port’s fishermen gather at the small harbourside chapel for blessing ceremonies followed by communal feasting.
Carnival celebrations in February bring Ano Mera’s square to life with traditional music and dancing – far removed from the polished performances staged for summer visitors. The pre-Lenten period also sees tavernas serving special dishes like lagana flatbread and taramosalata that rarely appear on tourist menus.
Perhaps most atmospheric is Epiphany (6th January), when a priest throws a cross into the harbour and young men dive into the freezing water to retrieve it – a tradition unchanged for centuries. Arrive early to secure a spot on the quayside.
Mykonos In Winter: The Essential Information
Practical Considerations & Packing Tips
Many restaurants close, but those that remain open serve more interesting food than summer’s tourist menus. If you find a Mykonos restaurant or bar full of locals, particularly around the Old Port and inland villages, then it’s pretty much guaranteed to be good!
Winter also brings significantly better value for accommodation – you’ll find luxury villas to rent at a fraction of summer prices, often with flexible cancellation policies to account for weather disruptions.
Bring proper waterproofs and walking boots – summer sandals won’t cut it on wet marble steps. Pack layers – temperatures can swing significantly between sunny afternoons and evening winds.
Most importantly, bring flexibility. Mykonos in winter operates on island time and weather patterns. Some days the ferries won’t run. Some mornings will be too stormy for outdoor exploration. But these same conditions create the authentic experiences that summer visitors never see.
Weather Through The Season
December brings the heaviest rainfall (averaging 70mm), but between storms expect crisp, clear days perfect for photography. January and February see the strongest meltemi winds – essential for understanding why the island’s architecture evolved as it did.
The winter light is photographer’s gold – clear, sharp, and lasting longer than you’d expect. Sunrise moves from 7:15am in October to 6:30am by March, while sunset shifts from 6:30pm to 7:45pm.
Getting There & Around
Aegean Airlines maintains year-round Athens-Mykonos flights, though schedules adjust for winter demand. Morning flights have the best chance of operating in strong winds. Always book flexible tickets – winter weather can disrupt schedules.
Blue Star Ferries runs daily services from Piraeus throughout winter. The larger ships handle rough seas better than summer’s high-speed vessels. Local buses connect Mykonos Town with Ano Mera every couple of hours (reduced from summer’s hourly service).
Important Note About Travel In Winter Greece
While we’ve endeavoured to provide the most up-to-date information available at time of publication, visitors to Greek islands in winter should note that timetables, opening hours and services can be highly unpredictable. Ferry and flight schedules often change with little notice due to weather conditions or operational decisions. Museums and sites may alter their opening hours without updating their official listings, and some facilities mentioned may close unexpectedly for extended periods during the off-season.
We strongly recommend:
Calling ahead to verify opening hours on the day of your visit
Checking ferry and flight status the day before and morning of travel
Building flexibility into your schedule
Having backup plans for days when weather affects transport or activities
Carrying cash, as some card machines may be offline in winter
This unpredictability is part of the authentic winter island experience – embracing it rather than fighting it will make for a more enjoyable visit.
In recent years, as self-proclaimed foodies very vocally seek more and more genuine Thai eating experiences, there’s one dish that stands at a strange kind of crossroads.
Universally loved, sure, but also unfairly maligned by many Thai food aficionados in the west, the clearly delicious Pad Thai is often dismissed as too sweet, too cloying, or, weirdly, insufficiently ‘authentic’.
Of course, a som tam with the funkier fish sauce and plenty of paddy crabs is incredible. And yes, we’re sure that jungle curry you made in your Doi Suthep cooking class was the real deal. But let’s not fuck about here; a good Pad Thai is still a sensational plate of food.
It’s the shortcut-taking, half-arsed versions that are to blame for Pad Thai’s sometimes less than favourable reputation, with gloopy ketchup spiked international incarnations meaning the dish is misrepresented and misunderstood.
Now, about that ‘too sweet’ accusation; you see that lime on the side of the plate? It’s there to subdue, to balance and to lift. The ground chilli, the chopped peanuts, the fish sauce… as with the vast majority of Thai noodle dishes, this is a democratic affair, with condiments available so you can season and customise to taste.
Indeed, for many Pad Thai has become a national emblem of Thailand, which was actually the whole intention of the dish in the first place, having been introduced during the 1930s and 1940s by Prime Minister Plaek Phibunsongkhram as part of a campaign to assimilate Chinese influences on the country’s cuisine, promote Thai national pride and reduce rice consumption during a time of economic hardship. By encouraging the nation to embrace this noodle dish, he aimed to foster a sense of unity and national identity. Thus, Pad Thai was born not just as a delicious dish, but also as a symbol of resilience and cultural pride.
Pad Thai contains a fairly strict, concise set of ingredients — rice noodles, shrimp, fish sauce, tamarind, tofu, bean sprouts, spring onions, peanuts — and due to this, the dish’s success lies in the details; in the smokiness achieved by a jet engine wok burner, in the chef’s deft but delicate flick of the wrist, in the plumpness of the prawns and the secrecy of the sauce. Therefore, and because Bangkok is so massive and versions of Pad Thai surprisingly divergent in quality, we’ve kept this list short, concise and to the point.
Without further ado, here’s where to find the best Pad Thai in Bangkok.
*Like many places in Thailand some of these restaurants, shophouses and streetfood operations may be randomly closed – opening hours are unpredictable, so it’s wise to have a backup. Generally speaking, you should expect to pay in the region of ฿100 (around £2.50) for a good Pad Thai in Bangkok, though that of course depends on the endless options for customisation available. If prices are significantly more than that, we’ll make sure to mention it.*
Thip Samai (Pad Thai Pratoo Pi Ghost Gate), Phra Nakhon
Known as Pad Thai Phratoo Phi (Ghost Gate Pad Thai) because of the restaurant’s location close to a crematorium, this is without doubt an exemplary rendition, having been slinging their stuff since the ‘60s.
Image via @thipsamaipadthaiImage via @thipsamaipadthai
If you’re on Google you’ll probably read that the noodles here are overrated (hey, when is someone not pontificating along those lines on Google?). But that doesn’t stop people from coming here. This is one of the oldest Pad Thai establishments in the capital, with a version made special by the addition of prawn head juice in the secret sauce. This small tweak to the recipe (historians believe that Pad Thai was the first standardised recipe in the Thai culinary canon) garnered plaudits from then Prime Minister Plaek Phibunsongkhram, which in turn unleashed a wave of popularity that Thip Samai is still riding, and sees queues snaking round the block to this day.
Cooked on an industrial scale in massive batches over roaring hot woks, the Pad Thai at Thip Samai has a luminous, almost US Fanta-like hue. Served up ‘as is’ or wrapped in an egg, the dish is unceremoniously plonked on a plate, Jackson Pollock style, in the name of speed. That queue is getting restless, after all. If the orange overload isn’t too much, order a glass of Thip Samai’s freshly squeezed stuff, which is excellent.
Whilst the plate looks chaotic, the version here has a subtle smoky flavour and meaty shrimps, the latter of which can be upgraded to jumbo size for ฿250 or so. Honestly, we wouldn’t bother; those big boys throw off the balance of the dish somewhat.
Instead, go simply for the Pad Thai sen jan man gung – a classic prawn rendition but with those saline, buttery prawn head juices mixed through. Savour the luscious umami, baby. To add that thin omelette gift wrapping paper we spoke of, it’s Pad Thai haw gai gung sot. Lovely stuff.
Though there are now multiple branches across Bangkok, including at the swanky ICONSIAM, and even Pad Thai cooking kits available to take home, it’s at Ghost Gate that the original (and best) is still thrown down.
Address: 313, 315 Maha Chai Rd, Samran Rat, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok 10200, Thailand
Lueng Pha Pad Thai, Phra Nakhon
Thip Samai not open or just completely, obstructively rammed? Well, you’re in luck. Because right next to Thip Samai on Mahachai Road (likely a deliberate choice in anticipation of overspill and impatience), you’ll find a superb Pad Thai at Lueng Pha Pad Thai, a six-decade deep family run operation that understands that the devil truly is in the detail.
It’s a humble setup here. A luminous lime green, smoke stained interior with walls adorned with old school photos offers that surefire sign of a recipe that’s been perfected over generations. A charcoal stove at the front of the store – sparks shooting off in all directions – provides some theatre. The clatter of the hoak and the whoosh of the wok burner bring with them aural intrigue. Yep, the mise en scene is set for something spectacular.
And so it comes to pass. Though smaller (cheaper, too) than its neighbour, the Pad Thai at Lueng Pha is arguably even better. Made single to order rather than in Thip Samai’s whopping batches, there’s a pronounced wok hei to proceedings here, lifting the signature prawn oil pad Thai to dizzy new heights not scaled next door. Take a seat out front on the pavement next to a fan for a humble but also luxurious dining experience.
Address: QG33+4WW, Maha Chai Rd, Samran Rat, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok 10200, Thailand
Though both have now sadly closed, you’ll find the same precision technique and innate feel for the country’s cuisine at chef Yang’s Pad Thai Fai La Tu, a short stroll (and welcome escape, quite frankly) from Khao San Road. It’s home to a belter of a Pad Thai.
The most popular order here sees grilled slices of pork neck spread invitingly over a bed of Thailand’s famous noodle dish, all delivered on a banana leaf for a bit of added theatre. But it’s not just the Pad Thai moo yang which keeps the crowds coming back for more; the crispy pork Pad Thai is arguably even better, with four large chunks of fatty pork belly blessed with properly puffed pieces of crackling, all sitting alongside a charred tangle of noods and gubbins. Wowzers, it’s good, and evidence that Pad Thai doesn’t necessarily have to be a prawn-centric affair.
If Dinsor Road’s lack of proximity to an MRT or BTS station is putting you off, you’ll be pleased to hear that you can now find chef Yang’s Pad Thai at Siam Square Soi 10 and the Mahanakhon CUBE, too.
The moment you’ve all been waiting for (and yep, we’re not sure why we haven’t listed this guy first, either): the best Pad Thai we’ve tried in Bangkok is at Pad Thai Narok Taek, located just across the river in Thonburi district.
Nicknamed ‘Mad Man Pad Thai’, owing to the chef/owner’s stir frying style – all controlled chaos and rock’n’roll moves – it’s said that chef Aon Apilak Plurksawet gets through 25 woks a month due to the incredible amount of orders (400 a night, and counting) he receives for this remarkably good version of the Thai classic.
Scorched and moody, and a little tart rather than bracingly sweet, the dish is to be enjoyed on the street right next to Plurksawet’s cart.With no version of Pad Thai here clocking in at more than ฿100, it’s also an absolute bargain. This; this is the one you’ve been looking for.
Ascend the three terracotta steps – a stairway to heaven of sorts – to Baan Yai Phad Thai. Reward your climb with a sit down on the collection of plastic stools seemingly at plinth level outside the shophouse. Settle in and wait for Bangkok Pad Thai mastery to commence…
Here, it’s a traditional, perfectly formed take on the classic, cooked by a brigade of chefs who are all hearing impaired, giving the restaurant its unique moniker.
Regardless of that faintly philanthropic seasoning, the queues have been huge for this place for years, even before Michelin bestowed Baan Yai Phad Thai with a Bib Gourmand award in 2020, prompting an upgrade from streetcart to shophouse Now, the queues stretch out for even longer, but the quality remains resolutely, reassuringly consistent.
Over a charcoal stove, every dish is made to order, with chef Somjet “Ae” Chuenyam’s liberal use of rendered pork fat a most welcome distinguishing feature. A topping of crumbled crackling is another fine touch that brings Baan Yai’s Pad Thai a luxurious quality. Squid and shrimp can also be added. You know what? We might add both!
Address: 110 Soi Inthamara 47, แขวงรัชดาภิเษก Din Daeng, Bangkok 10400, Thailand
Mayrai Pad Thai Bar, Phra Nakhon
In the mood for Pad Thai but want to enjoy it in relaxed, air-conditioned surrounds whilst clutching a glass of cloudy, funky wine? A fairly specific desire, granted, but one that will be satisfied at Mayrai Pad Thai Bar, the work of chef ThiTid “Ton” Tassanakajohn of Le Du fame.
Whilst certainly delicious, this one is going to cost you; the Pad Thai with wagyu beef has got to be the most expensive in the city at ฿590 (around £12.50) but it’s well worth that premium price, all smoky bark and blushing centre. That said, our favourite order here is the Pad Thai with pork jowl, which arrives pleasingly pink and splayed out like it’s sunbathing.
Enjoy with a glass or two of natty juice and views of Wat Pho from a second floor vantage point, and feel about as far removed from some of the more street level entries on our list as is physically possible. For better or for worse, we might add…
There is now a second outpost of Mayrai on Wireless Road, housed within Baan, another of Chef Ton’s more casual restaurants.
Translating as ‘house of Pad Thai’, this restaurant is another premium Pad Thai purveyor, part of a restaurant group whose portfolio includes the acclaimed Issaya Siamese Club and Pizza Massilia, which features on our list of the best pizzas in Bangkok, incidentally.
Made with a secret 18-ingredient sauce, you can taste the thoughtful seasoning that goes into this one, its boujee unctuousness the result of – we’re guessing here – both prawn head juice and a little pork fat.
There are many different ways to measure the quality of a good Pad Thai, but the actual noodles aren’t often used as a barometer, it has to be said.
Not so at Baan Pad Thai, where the quality of the noodles is evident. Here, thin flat sen lek from Chanthaburi province (considered the country’s best) are used, bringing their distinctive chewy texture and a sense of structural integrity that doesn’t break down to mush under the heat of the wok.
There’s further attention to detail in the reduced crab stock that forms the backbone of the secret sauce, enhancing the dish’s multilayered flavours and giving an umami-rich kiss across the chops.
The Pad Thai puu (Pad Thai with blue swimmer crab meat) is presented extravagantly, a tangle peeking out from under the crab shell, its claws wrapped protectively around the noodles, the flavour throbbing with the richness of brown crab meat. If you’re keen on sharing what is usually a one-dish-wonder, then the jumbo mud crab Pad Thai is built for it.
At heart, Pad Thai is an easily-made-vegetarian dish, and here the jay (vegetarian) version is excellent, silky from both the noodles and tofu and just as satisfying as the more meaty menu numbers.
Regardless of your order, and for the sake of visiting farang, the Pad Thai here is served chilli free. There’s plenty of smoked, ground chilli tableside should you wish to pile it on, though.
The restaurant’s interior is charming, done up in blue with traditional antique Aytutthya wood partitions and panels, making it a spot you’ll be keen to recline in a little longer than the plastic stool operations on our list. Hmmm, perhaps we might order another…
Sitting pretty in the rather unassuming, laid back neighbourhood of Dusit, Sawasdee Ratchawat exudes a charm that’s straightforwardly inviting. The locality, not typically frequented by tourists, offers a more genuine slice of Bangkok’s culinary scene, with a straightforwardly delicious Pad Thai the reward for those who have made the special journey in search of it.
Though it may not be as ancient as Thipsamai, Sawasdee Ratchawat carries its own legacy of rich flavours and impeccable cooking techniques. The shophouse is known not only for Pad Thai but also for its fried oyster omelette, making it a dual attraction for seafood and noodle enthusiasts alike. Both are prepared on a massive hot plate that’s seen so much action that the flavours of a thousand Pad Thai before it have discernibly seasoned the pan. In the best possible way, of course…
It’s a two chuan kind of rig, with the chef double-handed and dexterously working the ever-growing tangle of noodles as the benches and metal tables fill up. The crowds are here for noodles that have the perfect amount of bite, and a tamarind spiked sauce that strikes just the right balance between rich and sour, sweet and salty.
End – as we are – with a banana fritter, as is the way at Sawasdee Ratchawat, excusing it as one of your five a day. You know what? We think we might stay here a while…
Once dubbed the ‘Mother of Wales’ for its fertile fields that fed the mainland, Anglesey has evolved into one of Wales’ most exciting culinary destinations.
Cross the Menai Bridge today, and you’ll find yourself on an island where centuries-old farming traditions meet increasingly innovative cooking, where pristine seafood is celebrated using both time-honoured techniques and more contemporary flourishes, and where the next great meal is never far away.
From Michelin-recognised heavyhitters to relaxed beachside bistros, here’s our pick of the best restaurants on Anglesey.
Sosban & The Old Butchers
Ideal for an extraordinary, intimate dining experience where innovation meets Welsh ingredients…
Just moments after crossing the Menai Bridge, you’ll discover one of Wales’ most acclaimed dining destinations, tucked away within a historic butcher’s shop, no less. This is no ordinary restaurant – Chef Stephen Stevens (great name) has created something truly unique here, holding a Michelin star for the past seven years, as well as an impressive four AA rosettes, for his bold, creative cooking.
The dining room sets a certain scene: covered windows add an air of exclusivity, while inside, Welsh slate walls, sheepskin-covered chairs and hand-painted animal tiles pay homage to the building’s butcher shop heritage. The space is an understated one – just a handful of wooden circular tables with dining chairs positioned at intimate 45-degree angles to one another, and a kitchen work bench where Stevens can be seen working solo, orchestrating each dish with precision.
There are no menus here. Instead, guests embark on a nine-course tasting experience (£175 per person) that showcases the wealth of North Wales ingredients in surprising and delightful ways. Stevens’ cooking demonstrates an innate understanding of technique and flavour – expect dishes like cod with fermented onion fudge and liquorice, or confit lamb’s tail with mustard custard (next up: goat float? brisket biscuit?) and coffee, each one demonstrating his ability to combine unexpected elements into something truly memorable.
Sosban & The Old Butchers is only open for dinner, Thursday through Saturday, with the evening kicking off at 7pm for the 16 diners lucky enough to secure a booking.
Indeed, do book months in advance – with limited seating and growing recognition, securing a table at this distinguished little place requires foresight and patience.
Ideal for waterfront dining that casually celebrates North Wales’ finest produce…
Since opening their doors in 2012, Dylan’s has grown from a single waterfront restaurant into one of North Wales’ most beloved dining institutions, with a total of four now operating across the region. Their flagship restaurant in Menai Bridge, housed in a striking modern building, offers a dining room where floor-to-ceiling windows frame spectacular views across the Menai Strait to Snowdonia beyond.
Crowned ‘Welsh Food & Drink Champion’ in 2023, Dylan’s has made it their mission to celebrate “the local produce, character and natural beauty of North Wales.” This isn’t just marketing speak – their kitchen maintains strong relationships with local suppliers, from award-winning butcher Edwards of Conwy to the region’s fish merchants.
And what a pantry they have to work with. The menu spans from properly crisp mac ‘n’ cheese bites made with Snowdonia Cheddar to their signature moules marinière, until recently sourced from Scottish waters while local Menai stocks recovered (a commitment to sustainability that speaks volumes about their approach), but now back using those grown on the Menai Strait seabed.
The restaurant undulates in energy across its expansive opening hours (11am to 10pm), with different crowds bringing a different vibe to the room as the day progresses from coffee to wine to digestif. The drinks menu gives prominence to local ales and Welsh spirits, a commitment that extends to their desserts; the Wild Horse Brewery ale sticky toffee pudding is one of Anglesey’s best desserts.
With additional branches now in Criccieth, Llandudno and Conwy, plus their own general stores, Dylan’s has become a standard-bearer for Welsh hospitality while remaining true to their original vision of championing local produce. We love it.
Ideal for creative British small plates with global influences…
Named after Ren Gill’s song and album Freckled Angels, this globetrotting restaurant has been charming diners in Menai Bridge for nearly a decade. Recently relocated to Dale Street, the dining room is a bright, breezy affair that manages to feel both Scandinavian and chapel-like, with wooden floors, angelic motifs and large windows flooding the space with marine light from the Straits. Sure, those windows may look out on a car park, but what a car park it is!
Anyway, at the helm is Bangor-born chef Mike Jones, who worked his way up to head chef at Hotel Portmeirion by age 23 before opening Freckled Angel. His menu magpie-picks inspiration from across the globe while maintaining proud Welsh roots and is heavily influenced by a certain style of small plates that’s sometimes referred to as modern global. We’re not bothered with labels if it hits the spot…
When it comes to those small plates, the twice-baked Perl Las soufflé with balsamic grapes has become the restaurant’s signature dish, no doubt, but there’s plenty of joy to found in the spicier numbers, too, whether that’s in the honey and soy cured salmon with wasabi and apple, or the Korean fried chicken with cucumber salad.
A standout during our recent visit was the restaurant’s take on ‘dippy eggs’, which saw salt beef and unami-rich parmesan toast, served with with a crispy duck egg – a masterpiece of texture and taste. The egg is expertly prepared to achieve that coveted contrast: a golden, crispy exterior giving way to a luxuriously runny yolk. It’s a real mouth-coater, make no mistake.
The small plates are priced keenly at around £8 to £11, making the Angel a great value meal for the quality. And it is quality; the restaurant has recently been featured in the Good Food Guide and named the winner of the North Wales Young Business Award for food and hospitality. There are even bottles of wine starting below £30.
Reservations are recommended, particularly for weekend dinner service, when regulars and visitors gather in this intimate 30-cover restaurant to sample Jones’ creative cooking. Open Wednesday through Sunday, 12pm to 10pm.
Ideal for elevated pub dining with stunning coastal views…
Saved from closure in 2007 by the Timpson family (of key cutting and prison reform fame), The White Eagle has been transformed into one of Anglesey’s most cherished dining destinations. This white-rendered building, with its floor-to-ceiling windows and extensive elevated terrace, makes the most of its enviable position overlooking Borth Wen Beach and the sweeping views across to Bardsey Island.
Now part of the Flock Inns group (operated by Roisin Timpson), the pub’s seasonal menu reflects the richness of Welsh produce. The kitchen excels at refined pub classics – think locally-sourced steaks with triple-cooked chips, fresh fish pie topped with potato and garden pea mash, or their signature sweetcorn chowder loaded with mussels and smoked haddock. The drinks selection is equally thoughtful, with local cask ales from Conwy Brewery alongside a tight, keenly priced wine list
The spacious beer garden is a particular draw in summer months, while dogs are welcomed with open arms (and treats) both outside and in designated indoor areas. For those wanting to extend their stay (or, you know, roll into bed after one too many pints), there’s even a luxury four-bedroom apartment above the pub called The Nest, offering those same spectacular views.
Open daily, noon until 8pm from Sunday to Thursday, and an hour later, until 9pm, on Fridays and Saturdays.
Ideal for modern gastropub dining with mesmerising coastal views…
Originally built as a marine cottage in 1924, The Tavern on the Bay has been transformed into one of Anglesey’s most visually arresting venues. The restaurant offers a mesmerising 270° panoramic view that sweeps across the Anglesey coastline to the Great Orme, best enjoyed from their wooden-beamed dining room with its striking copper pendant lights and floor-to-ceiling windows.
Once again, elevated pub classics are the name of the game here – fresh market haddock in cask ale batter, Welsh lamb barmarked from the grill… You get the picture. Whilst it’s not the most groundbreaking food on the planet (or, indeed, on the island) there aren’t many better views to frame your dinner with than here. The regular ‘Piano on the Bay’ evenings further convey it’s a special kind of place.
Open daily, 11:30am until 9:30pm Sunday through Thursday, and until 10:30pm Fridays and Saturdays.
Ideal for contemporary British cooking with global influences…
Named after Joseph Heller’s novel (a reference to the owners’ bold leap from secure jobs into restaurant ownership), Catch 22 has become one of Anglesey’s most respected dining destinations since opening in 2017. Recently named among the Good Food Guide’s 100 Best Local Restaurants for 2024, this modern brasserie is the creation of chef-owner Neil Harley-Davies, who runs the restaurant with his wife Melissa and sister-in-law Ellie.
After training as an accountant, Neil switched careers to follow his culinary passion, working his way through Cardiff’s kitchens and a Michelin-starred run in Berkshire before returning home as the first head chef at the aforementioned Dylan’s in Menai Bridge. Now at his own venture, he combines high-quality local produce with culinary expertise to create contemporary British dishes with global influences.
The menu showcases produce from an impressive roster of Welsh suppliers – from Halen Môn sea salt (more of them in a moment) to Menai Oysters, Llefrith Cybi dairy to Anglesey Fine Foods. Their Singapore-style chicken curry has become a signature dish, while the legendary Snickers Trifle (a sybaritic concoction of malt panna cotta, peanut caramel and chocolate ganache) has been dubbed “the best pudding in the world” by the adjacent dining table and, in so many words, the Good Food Guide.
The modern two-story building, with its striking wooden façade, houses a dining room that can seat up to 120 guests. Spring 2025 will see the addition of a first-floor cocktail bar and lounge, adding another dimension to this vibrant establishment. Despite what the name might suggest, seafood is just one part of their broad, appealing menu that caters to all tastes.
Open Wednesday through Sunday, 10:30am until 9pm (8pm Sundays). Booking recommended for weekend service.
Ideal for coffee and homemade treats with spectacular strait-side views…
What began in 1997 as a pan of seawater boiling on an Aga has evolved into one of Wales’ greatest food success stories. Halen Môn’s sea salt, now protected by PDO status and served everywhere from royal weddings to the White House, provides the backdrop for this charming café on the edge of the Menai Strait.
Opened by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall and visited by the then Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, Tide/Llanw makes the most of its exceptional setting with panoramic views across to Snowdonia. The outdoor seating area, protected by a sturdy Welsh ‘pabell’ (canopy), offers the perfect spot to sample their carefully curated menu while soaking in the vista.
Images via @halenmon
The café champions quality local produce – expect Coaltown speciality coffee alongside homemade cakes that often feature their famous sea salt. Their toasted sesame and sea salt flapjack has become something of a signature, best enjoyed with a flat white or, for those feeling festive, an ice-cold Jin Môr (their own gin).
Open Wednesday through Sunday, 10:30am until 2:30pm. No booking required. Dogs welcome with treats provided. The café forms part of the larger visitor centre, where you can tour the salt-making facilities, browse their design-led gift shop, or even try their innovative wild seaweed bathing experience.
The garden room – a personal oasis in your backyard, a space for creativity and relaxation, a preserve of very specific content creation online, or even just an escape from the daily grind.
But how long does it take to build this slice of paradise (okay, maybe that’s going a bit far) in the UK? And what planning permission do you need to make it a reality? Fear not, dear reader, for we have delved into the depths of garden room construction, peeked under the floorboards, and emerged with answers to these burning questions.
How Long Does It Take To Build A Garden Room?
Let’s start by addressing the elephant in the room (or rather, the garden): how long does it take to build a garden room? Well, much like a fine wine or a good British queue, the time it takes to construct your garden retreat can vary.
The time it takes to build a garden room in the UK can vary depending on several factors, such as the size and complexity of the design, the materials used, and the level of professional involvement. Generally, it can take anywhere from a few weeks to a few months. Here’s a rough breakdown of the stages involved in building a garden room:
Site preparation, including groundworks and foundations: 1-2 weeks
Construction: 2-6 weeks
Interior finishing and decoration: 1-3 weeks
Considering these stages, you could expect the entire process to take anywhere from 6 to 20 weeks or more. Your specific timeline will depend on your individual garden room project and variables such as weather conditions, contractor schedules, and any unexpected challenges that may arise during the construction process. Some of those challenges include:
Size & Complexity: Small, simple garden rooms may only take a couple of weeks to complete, while a larger, more intricate designer garden rooms could require up to 6 weeks or more.
Weather Conditions: As any Brit will tell you, our weather is about as predictable as a game of Snakes and Ladders. Rain, snow, and high winds can all cause delays in construction, so be prepared to exercise some patience if Mother Nature decides to throw a spanner in the works.
DIY Vs. Professional Installation: If you’re a dab hand at DIY and decide to tackle the project yourself, the timeline may be longer than if you hire a professional team to handle the job. But hey, who doesn’t love a challenge?
Planning Permission: The Nitty-Gritty
Now that we’ve covered the time aspect, let’s dive into the murky waters of planning permission. While garden rooms are generally considered permitted development in the UK, there are some caveats to keep in mind:
Size Matters: If your garden room is single storey, less than 2.5 metres in height and occupies less than 50% of your garden area, you’re likely in the clear. However, if it exceeds these dimensions, you may need to seek planning permission. Moreover, it shouldn’t have a balcony, veranda or raised platform.
Building Regulations: You will not need a certificate if…
Your garden room is not attached to your main home.
The floor area of your garden room is less than 15 square metres.
It doesn’t include sleeping accommodation.
Location, Location, Location: If your property is within a conservation area, an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, or a World Heritage Site, additional restrictions may apply. In these cases, it’s best to consult with your local planning authority before proceeding. Also, you can’t build your garden room in front of the principal elevation of the house; in other words no building it in your front garden.
Purpose: Garden rooms used for personal enjoyment typically don’t require planning permission, but if you plan to use the space for business purposes, you may need to seek approval. You can’t use your garden room as a self-contained living space. Moreover, if you wish to use it for purposes that you usually do in your main home, like showering or cooking, you may need planning permission.
Listed Buildings: If your property is a listed building, you’ll need to obtain consent from your local planning authority before constructing a garden room.
What Is The Average Cost Of A Garden Room In The UK?
However, more bespoke designs can increase the cost substantially. To compare what’s available, visit Garden Buildings Direct to see current sizes, lead times and finishes across their garden rooms, log cabins and summerhouses.
Adding a bathroom or kitchen to your garden room can also significantly impact the cost, with prices ranging from £2,400 to over £30,000 . It’s essential to consider all these factors when determining the average cost of a garden room in the UK in 2023.
The Bottom Line
Building a garden room in the UK can be a frustrating but fulfilling journey, filled with creativity, anticipation, hurdles, and just a touch of British bureaucracy. With a construction timeline ranging from just a couple of weeks to several months, and a clear understanding of planning permission requirements, you’ll soon be on your way to enjoying your very own backyard haven. So, dust off those gardening gloves, brush up on your DIY skills, and get ready to create a space that’s uniquely yours. Happy building!
2026 already? Yes, you did indeed read that right. With the 2025 edition of the British summer holidays now a distant memory and the nights positively drawn in, we’re determined not to get stuck in the past and are already considering our options for next year’s adventures.
And what better adventure could there be than traversing the seven seas in a sailing boat, cruise liner or yacht? If there’s one, we certainly haven’t found it!
If sailing holidays in Greece or island hopping in the South Pacific Ocean sound like your sort of thing, then rest assured, we’re right there with you. A warm sea breeze, a sense of unbridled freedom, the wind in your sails and hair, and an unrivalled variety of destinations…what’s not to love?
If this is your idea of a holiday in heaven and you’re already making plans for next year’s holidays, then read on; here are our 11 IDEAL destinations for a yachting holiday in 2026.
The Bahamas, The Caribbean
From sheltered harbours and beautiful islands to a variety of sailing areas catering to easy-to-complex sailing abilities, the Bahamas are known to have everything to make your yacht holidays perfect and unforgettable. They’re also well-known for luxurious cruise ships and commercial resorts, making the Bahamas a popular go-to destination for many high-profile and wealthy visitors.
For an alternative experience, why not rent your own private yacht and head to the Caribbean to explore some untouched islands and stunning white-sand beaches. Dive into the ocean with your scuba gear and snorkel for a swim around the coral reefs with the incredible aquatic creatures – you won’t regret it!
The Greek Islands
Famed for having one of the longest coastlines in Europe, Greece truly stands out for its enchanting beauty and rich history. The Greek Islands are spread across the four seas around the mainland – Aegean Sea, Ionian Sea, Cretan Sea and Mediterranean Sea. There are numerous unexplored yet open coves and beaches which are accessible only by boat, superb for exploring while on board. Yacht charters in Greece offer both with-skipper and bareboat (without-skipper) options for renting yachts, provided you have an experienced or certified sailor in your group.
The Dalmatian Islands, The Adriatic Sea
Staying in Europe, the Croatian Adriatic has become hugely popular as a sailing destination for the affluent and adventurous in recent years, and is perhaps the current hottest destination for luxury yacht charters in the Mediterranean. The beauty of the extraordinary Dalmatian Coast, in particular, is best appreciated from the vantage point of the ocean, with plenty of interesting pit-stops (or should that be port stops?) along the way, both cosmopolitan and remote, on the mainland and on the islands.
Ideally, you’ll start your cruise from the Port of Split, part of Croatia’s second largest city, and then head to famous islands Hvar, Brac and Korcula, which are just a short sail away. If you are a fan of the popular television series Game of Thrones, don’t forget to sail to Dubrovnik city where the scenes of Kings Landing were filmed.
You may want to end your Croatian yacht holiday in Makarska, which is just an hour’s sail across the water from the beautiful island of Brac, and boasts stunning views of the ocean (and back out towards Brac!) from its resort hotels and villas.
The Seychelles, The Indian Ocean
With 115 breathtaking islands in the Indian Ocean, this island nation of East Africa is now considered one of the top honeymoon destinations by travellers all around the world. Yacht charters mainly focus on the relatively closely located 41 inner islands including Mahe, La Digue and Praslin, and their two coral islands.
The pristine white-sand beaches, imposing granite rocks, rare animals and birds, giant palm and coconut trees by the beach as well as the rich variety of red, blue, brown and green coral reefs peeking through the clear, turquoise water, makes this secluded and relatively less-commercialised island nation an exotic paradise. Yep, if you’re keen for a yachting holiday with a difference in 2026, you’ll love The Seychelles.
The Galapagos Islands, Ecuador
Want to experience an amazing nautical trip to an uninhabited wildlife paradise where you get to observe rare animals in their natural habitat? Well, who doesn’t? Here’s your chance; rent a yacht and sail to the Galapagos Islands in Ecuador. From sea lions, spiky marine iguanas, giant turtles, penguins to blue-footed boobies, frigatebird, flightless cormorant and more, these islands are famed for their rich biodiversity.
The famous Darwin Island is the smallest amongst these islands. Indeed, the Galapagos Islands are where Charles Darwin observed several species of finches that helped him come up with the famous theory of evolution by natural selection. Perhaps you’ll come up with your own groundbreaking ideas while visiting?
The British Virgin Islands
Known as a sailor’s paradise owing to the well-sheltered anchorages around the area and the warm, consistent trade winds, the British Virgin Islands are great for a smooth sailing experience. Head to the Anegada Island for some stunning views of crystal-clear turquoise waters and white-powdery beaches crowded with pink flamingos.
Among the four main islands, Jost van Dyke is the smallest, and least inhabited. Norman Island is known for its spectacular seascape, and Virgin Gorda Island for The Baths, which comprises stunning rock formations that create several natural pools, is also spectacular.
The Maldives, The Indian Ocean
It comes as no surprise that Maldives makes it to the top spot in almost all honeymoon destination charts. This small island nation in South Asia is located in the Indian Ocean. It consists of thousands of small coral islands surrounded by a blue lagoon of shallow, clear water. Apart from sailing to these beautiful islands, you can enjoy the grand services of luxurious resorts in private islands as well as indulge in various water sports such as diving, snorkelling, scuba diving and more.
Fiji Islands, The South Pacific
Considered among the safest destinations for yacht holidays, Fiji Islands of the South Pacific are known to be one of the most beautiful islands in the world. Viti Levu and Vanua Levu are the largest islands of Fiji and should be the first stop on your yachting itinerary should you choose this beautiful part of the world.
Whitsunday Islands, Australia
The Whitsunday Islands are a collective of 74 islands located next to the world’s largest coral reefs, the Great Barrier Reef. What’s more, it’s the only place in the world that allows you to sail a boat without a certified license. As such, you can choose your own bareboat charter or opt for a skippered yacht if you would rather enjoy a relaxed sailing experience while a certified skipper handles the boat.
Do not forget to sail to the famous, award-winning Whitehaven Beach, known as one of the most beautiful in the world. For a fun partying and sailing experience, plan your holidays in accordance with the Hamilton Island Race Week or Airlie Beach Race Week to get amongst it.
The Turquoise Coast, Turkey
Straddling the meeting point of the Aegean and Mediterranean seas, Turkey’s Turquoise Coast (also known as the Turkish Riviera) has long been a favourite among yacht charter enthusiasts, and for good reason. The stunning stretch of coastline from Bodrum down to Antalya offers a beguiling blend of ancient ruins, pine-clad mountains tumbling into impossibly blue waters, and charming harbour towns where East meets West in the most delicious way.
A ‘Blue Voyage’ (or ‘Mavi Yolculuk’ as the locals call it) typically begins in Bodrum or Fethiye, with gulet charters (traditional Turkish wooden sailing vessels) being particularly popular here. From there, you can explore the sunken ruins of Kekova, swim in the secluded bays of Göcek, or anchor up in Butterfly Valley, a nature reserve accessible only by boat.
For history buffs, the Lycian Way offers countless opportunities to hop ashore and explore ancient tombs carved into cliffsides, while the bustling marina towns of Kalkan and Kaş provide excellent dining and nightlife when you fancy a break from life on deck. With reliably calm waters, warm temperatures well into October, and charter costs notably lower than comparable Mediterranean destinations, Turkey’s Turquoise Coast is a savvy choice for 2026.
French Polynesia, The South Pacific
French Polynesia includes 118 islands (67 of which are inhabited) that are well-known for their coral-fringed lagoons, towering waterfalls, black-and-white-sand beaches. Tahiti is the largest and most populated of the French Polynesia islands, though you might want to plump for some slightly more remote sailing destinations; Bora Bora, Rangiroa, Raiatea, Moorea, Hiva Oa, and Fakarava are particularly lovely to explore by boat.
The Bottom Of The Sea
Now that you have the ultimate list of ideal yacht holiday destinations, choose one that fits your budget and duration the best and get set to embark on a once-in-a-lifetime sailing experience. Luff up!
Your kitchen is probably the hardest-working room in your home. It’s also the one most likely to be quietly falling apart while you focus on the obvious stuff – wiping down surfaces, emptying the bin, maybe giving the hob a once-over. But beneath that surface-level clean, limescale is calcifying inside your kettle, grease is coating your extractor fan, and the seal around your sink is slowly giving up. These aren’t dramatic problems. They’re the slow, creeping, ultimately expensive kind.
The good news? Most kitchen maintenance is genuinely simple – it just requires you to actually do it. Here are seven jobs you’re almost certainly neglecting, what happens when you don’t bother, and how to sort them out.
Descaling Your Appliances
If you live in a hard water area (and most of England does), mineral deposits are building up inside every appliance that touches water. Your kettle, coffee machine, dishwasher, steam iron – all of them. That chalky residue isn’t just unsightly; it forces your appliances to work harder, uses more energy, and significantly shortens their lifespan. A kettle caked in limescale can take up to 25% longer to boil.
The fix is satisfyingly easy. White vinegar or citric acid will dissolve limescale in minutes. For kettles, fill with equal parts water and vinegar, boil, leave for an hour, then rinse thoroughly. Dishwashers benefit from a cup of white vinegar placed in the top rack and run empty on a hot cycle. Do this monthly if you’re in a hard water area, every couple of months if you’re not.
Cleaning Your Fridge’s Condenser Coils
There’s a reason your fridge hums away constantly – it’s working to keep things cold. But when the condenser coils (usually located at the back or underneath) get clogged with dust and pet hair, the compressor has to work overtime. The result? Higher energy bills, inconsistent temperatures, and a fridge that dies years before it should.
Pull your fridge out from the wall once or twice a year and vacuum the coils with a brush attachment. If they’re underneath, you’ll need to remove the grille at the front. It takes ten minutes and could add years to your fridge’s life. While you’re at it, check the door seals – if they’re not creating an airtight closure, cold air is escaping and your fridge is compensating.
Looking After Your Sink
Kitchen sinks take a battering. Hot pans, abrasive scourers, acidic foods, standing water – it all adds up. Stainless steel scratches and stains if you’re not careful with cleaning products. Composite sinks can discolour. And if your sink is showing its age, no amount of worktop polish will make your kitchen look put-together.
Different materials need different care. Stainless steel should be cleaned along the grain with a non-abrasive cloth; avoid bleach, which causes pitting. Composite sinks need regular cleaning to prevent staining but can handle most household cleaners. If you’re due an upgrade, consider a vintage-style ceramic kitchen sink that’s resistant to heat and scratches – they’re experiencing a comeback for good reason, combining classic aesthetics with genuine durability.
Checking & Replacing Sealant
The silicone seal around your sink, along the backsplash, and where worktops meet walls is doing more important work than you’d think. When it fails – and it will, eventually – water gets underneath. What follows is mould, rot, and potentially expensive structural damage. It’s the kind of problem that starts invisibly and reveals itself dramatically. For more on when to tackle these jobs yourself and when to call someone, see our guide on DIY vs professional repairs.
Inspect your sealant every few months. Look for discolouration, peeling, gaps, or areas that feel soft. If it’s compromised, remove it completely (a Stanley knife and some patience), clean the area with a mould-killing solution, let it dry thoroughly, then re-apply fresh silicone or caulk. It’s a job that takes an afternoon but prevents problems that could cost thousands.
Every time you fry, roast, or sauté, grease particles become airborne. Your extractor hood catches most of them – which means it’s also accumulating a sticky, flammable layer that reduces airflow and, if left long enough, becomes a genuine fire hazard. A grease-clogged filter can reduce extraction efficiency by over 50%.
Most metal filters are dishwasher-safe, so start there. If yours is particularly gunky, soak it in a sink of hot water with a generous squirt of washing-up liquid and a couple of tablespoons of baking soda – the grease will lift within an hour. The hood itself can be wiped down with a degreasing spray. If you cook frequently, this should be a monthly job. If you rarely use the hob, quarterly will do.
That lingering smell when you open the dishwasher? It’s probably the filter. Tucked at the bottom of the machine, it catches food debris so it doesn’t clog the drain. Problem is, most people never clean it, leaving a festering collection of decomposing food scraps that makes ‘clean’ dishes smell vaguely unpleasant.
Remove the filter (it usually twists out), rinse it under hot water, and scrub with an old toothbrush to dislodge trapped gunk. Check the drain area beneath it too – you’d be surprised what accumulates. Do this weekly if you use the dishwasher daily, fortnightly otherwise. Your glasses will sparkle and your kitchen won’t smell like a school canteen.
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Deep Cleaning The Oven
Nobody enjoys cleaning the oven, which is exactly why most people don’t do it until the smoke alarm goes off mid-roast. Burnt-on grease and carbonised food residue doesn’t just smell bad – it affects how your oven heats, can taint the flavour of food, and makes the whole appliance work less efficiently.
If you have a pyrolytic oven, use the self-cleaning function every few months. For everyone else, a paste of bicarbonate of soda and water, spread over the interior and left overnight, will do most of the work – wipe it away the next day and follow up with a vinegar spray for shine. Don’t forget the door glass, which usually has a hidden layer between the panes that collects drips.
Most ovens allow you to remove the door entirely for access. For a full rundown of keeping your kitchen spotless, see our tips for efficient home cleaning.
The Bottom Line
None of these jobs are difficult. Most take less than half an hour. But collectively, they’re the difference between a kitchen that runs smoothly for decades and one that nickel-and-dimes you with repairs, replacements, and rising energy bills. Set a reminder, pick a weekend morning, and work through the list. Your future self – and your wallet – will thank you.
How times have changed. Only a few years ago, finding a proper bowl of khao soi in Bangkok was like searching for a snowflake in Sukhumvit. These days, as more and more skilled Northern Thai chefs make this wonderful city their home and innovative restaurateurs put their own spin on this beloved Northern dish, digging out a decent bowl of the good stuff is easy.
A great bowl though? You’ll need this guide for that; here’s where to find the best khao soi in Bangkok.
Hom Duan, Ekkamai
Operating from a stylish shophouse in Ekkamai Soi 2 (with a second branch in Silom Complex), Hom Duan began life as a coffee shop before word of mouth transformed it into one of Bangkok’s most respected purveyors of Northern Thai food. The name, meaning ‘peppermint’ in the Northern dialect (and used to deter mozzies across the north), hints at the authentic Lanna experience within.
Hom Duan’s khao soi (80 baht), on the thicker end of the spectrum and robustly seasoned, maintains the ideal harmony between sweet and spicy notes, while the broader, budget Northern khao gaeng-style offerings (in huge bowls rather than Southern style gastronorms) have spawned queues since opening. The joint is particularly popular with students due to those low prices.
Everything is made in-house, from the nam prik noom (80 baht) to the tum kanoon (jackfruit mixed with pork crackling and spicy chilli paste, 60 baht). The Ekkamai branch’s exposed concrete floors and hanging ferns create a modern atmosphere that still feels authentically Northern. And true to its origins (and the burgeoning coffee scene in Chiang Mai), the coffee here is excellent. If you’re drinking, there’s Beer Lao, which is always welcome.
Open from 9am to 8pm every day except Sunday. Known to sell out of popular dishes, including the khao soi, by mid-afternoon.
Chef Prin Polsuk – the respected, encyclopaedic mind behind Michelin-starred Samrub Samrub Thai – has recently opened his first more casual venture at Bangkok’s newly minted Dusit Central Park. Up on the 5th floor. Kao Soy Prin sees the chef, a native of Northern town Lampang, serving recipes absorbed from his grandmother in confines that are anything but homely, but are certainly efficient as a pitstop between your trips to Uniqlo (got turmeric on my white tee again) and Watson’s (need a Pocari Sweat).
What distinguishes Kao Soy Prin from Bangkok’s increasingly crowded khao soi scene is its dual offering: alongside the familiar rich, coconut-laden broths sits a rarer Yunnan-style clear broth version (nam sai). The clear broth chicken khao soi (159 baht) channels the dish’s Chinese Muslim origins most directly – aromatic with spices and herbs, the broth a deeply flavoured bone stock cut with just enough coconut cream to add body without cloying sweetness. It’s served with round egg noodles that better suit the lighter soup, and is a more nuanced take that rewards close attention.
The thicker, traditional nam kon versions are here too – beef khao soi at 159 baht delivers the sludgier, more assertive curry broth that most punters expect, matched with flatter, thicker egg noodles. These aren’t timid bowls; they lean into a robust, saltier profile and are pleasingly spicy, too. The table accoutrements are all clearly handmade – bespoke, even – and encourage the usual personalisation. For some reason, seasoning your own bowl with abandon in the confines of a glitzy shopping mall feels almost perverse.
Both styles arrive crowned with flamboyant rafts of deep-fried crispy egg noodles – towering, golden tangles that have made Kao Soy Prin instantly recognisable on the socials, but more importantly, provide that essential textural contrast.
Beyond khao soi, the menu offers a few other Northern classics that let you linger a little longer: khanom jeen nam ngiao brings that distinctive tomato-spiked, spicy-sour broth over fermented rice noodles, while jin tup (pounded meat) is the right side of chewy and as satisfying as ever.
The setting is modern mall casual – clean, freezing cold, clinical – which means this is khao soi for the Silom office crowd rather than the wooden shophouse romantics. But given the pedigree behind it and the rare opportunity to try Yunnan-style khao soi, Kao Soy Prin certainly merits a trip up those escalators. In fact, that’s not really doing it justice; this is one of the best bowls of khao soi in Bangkok. We feel a roll-out coming on.
Open daily from 10am to 9pm. Connected to Sala Daeng BTS via skywalk.
Awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand in 2021 (which it has inexplicably since lost) and with four strategic locations across Bangkok (Ari, Rama I, Phahonyothin, and Central Eastville), Ong Tong leads the pack for accessibility and authenticity. Their recipe, passed down from the owner’s grandmother, uses key ingredients imported directly from Chiang Mai, where the first Ong Tong opened and still does a roaring trade to this day.
Their signature chicken khao soi (89 baht) features a luxuriously creamy coconut-based broth that’s not overly spicy, matched with a fork-tender chicken drumstick, its skin wibbly-wobbly, fatty and silky, and its flesh dark brown, both in the best possible way.
The Ari branch, their original location and our favourite of the four, spans two floors and maintains a modest wooden aesthetic that adds to its charm. Don’t miss their homemade sai ua (129 baht) or their Mini Khantoke set (399 baht) which offers an excellent sampling of Northern dishes. There’s also great laab muang here – a rare find in the Thai capital.
Open daily from 9:00am to 8:30pm Tuesdays. Peak hours run from midday to 2pm when Ari’s always hungry office crowds descend en masse.
Close to the Chao Phraya, just a five minute stroll from Thewes Pier in Bangkok’s historic Phra Nakhon district, Khao Soi Chiang Mai Supab offers an all-halal take on khao soi.
Here, the bowl is of the Muslim style of khao soi. In the words of esteemed food writer, photographer, and Thai food expert Austin Bush, this version “closely resembles the dish’s likely Burmese origins. That is, a thin, coconuty broth that carries subtle hints of dried spice powder.”
It’s the beef variation, featuring tender striped shank meat, that truly stands out at Supab. The kitchen maintains a masterful balance in their broths – light enough to finish the entire bowl without heaviness, yet satisfying in their subtle complexity and with minimum greasiness – true markers of an old school, Muslim version of the dish. It’s much less sweet and assertive than some of the other bowls on our list, too.
Beyond khao soi, the menu branches into other Thai Muslim specialties including aromatic, turmeric-hued chicken biryani and some great satay sticks. All you need now is Palestine Cola to wash it all down.
Hidden away down an unassuming alley, in a parking lot in the midst of the ever bustling, ever burgeoning Phrom Phong – and just seconds from its BTS station – Khao Soi Nam Neow offers what many locals consider Bangkok’s most satisfying khao soi experience. What sets the bowls here apart (just 60 baht, or 80 for a larger version) is the careful balance of rich curry broth that manages to be both satisfying and light enough to warrant repeated visits – no small feat in Bangkok’s tropical climate. Or, indeed, a dish that often runs the risk of being cloying…
The restaurant’s hidden location adds to its charm, making it feel like a genuine discovery in an area otherwise dominated by high-end eateries. Sides (the essential shallot, lime and pickled mustard greens) are self-service, as is crockery, adding to the charm of the place – flying in the face, somewhat, of the slick surrounds of this flash part of the town.
As with many of the other khao soi joints on our list, peak hours tend to be in the lunch time rush hour, when office workers slurp with the kind of hurried, reckless abandon that represents a serious danger to their starched white shirts. That’s not if those shirts aren’t already sodden with sweat – there are fewer places more humid than Khao Soi Nam Neow during a busy spell.
True to the name of the restaurant, the nam ngiao is ace, too. To order, write your table number, item number, and quantity on a piece of paper at your table and hand it to the staff at the entrance. Then, pay the bill at the end of the meal.
Across the other side of the tracks on one of Bangkok’s finest streets for restaurants, Soi Sukhumvit 33, North Restaurant offers a wholly different take on this beloved dish.
Housed in a stunning century-old heritage building, North aims to take khao soi to remarkable new heights. The dining room, with its floor-to-ceiling windows offering sweeping city views, sets the stage for what’s to come.
The restaurant offers two distinct khao soi experiences. During lunch service, you’ll find a substantial à la carte menu featuring variations from organic chicken (288 baht) to Kurobuta chashu pork (388 baht). It’s their wagyu A5 beef version (558 baht) that truly steals the show, though the jumbo crab meat variation (588 baht) offers an interesting seafood twist. It’s a twist that is, admittedly, not for us…
For dinner (6pm to 11pm), khao soi might appear as the opening act in their 9-course tasting menu (2,888 baht++), or later down the line, in miniature, in the restaurant’s main Khan-Toke spread. Do be warned that right now, khao soi isn’t a part of the tasting menu, so lunch is your best bet to try this inimitable version.
North’s Lampang-style khao soi stands apart for its innovative use of loads of smokey, anise-adjacent black cardamom instead of traditional curry powder, lending a distinctive piquancy to the dish that more closely resembles Yunnan versions of khao soi than its Chiang Mai counterparts.
Reservations are essential for dinner and recommended for lunch, particularly for the two private dining rooms which offer balcony views.
A relatively new addition to Bangkok’s Northern Thai scene, Khao Soi Ni Kala – not so far from both Krung Thonburi BTS and the always popular IBIS Riverside hotel – has quickly established itself as one of the city’s premier khao soi destinations. The usual chicken and beef versions are available here, and there’s a rare appearance for a pork variation, too. All are priced under 100 baht.
Beyond the signature khao soi, Khao Soi Ni Kala offers an impressive array of Northern Thai classics, including khanom jeen nam ngiao, nam prik noom, nam prik ong, hang lay curry, and an excellent naem (fermented pork) and egg stir-fry. What sets them apart is their dedication to traditional, ultra-savoury Northern flavour profile while maintaining consistency that’s hard to find outside Chiang Mai. Oh, and the house fruit juices are hard to beat on a hot Bangkok day…
We’ve always visited Khao Soi Ni Kala at lunch time, so can’t speak confidently about whether they’re open for dinner!
Address: 1345 Charoen Nakhon Soi 21
Khao Soi Lam Duan Fa Ham, ICONSIAM
A true piece of Northern Thai culinary history, Khao Soi Lam Duan Fa Ham traces its roots back to 1941 in Chiang Mai’s Fa Ham district, where the original restaurant still operates today. The Bangkok branches at Vipawadee-Rangsit and ICONSIAM are run by the founder’s daughter, maintaining the family’s exacting standards.
Their khao soi recipe has been perfected over 80 years. The broth is notably denser, spicier, and saltier than many other Bangkok versions, featuring a higher ratio of coconut cream and a specific masala spice blend that’s become their signature.
The Vipawadee-Rangsit location (open every day from 8:30am to 4pm) is quite some distance from the heart of the Bangkok action, close to Don Mueang airport, and maintains a more traditional vibe. The ICONSIAM outpost, open from roughly 10am to 10pm, is tight and compact, but efficient in its delivery. Both locations tend to fill up during lunch hours.
Operating from a charming wooden house in Sammakorn Village, Maan Muang recreates the essence of Northern Thailand in Bangkok. Owner Anchalee Prommart’s family recipes have earned the restaurant consecutive years of Michelin recognition, with the khao soi being a particular highlight.
The wooden aesthetic and traditional Thai furniture create a faithfully rendered Northern atmosphere, complete with staff dressed in regional attire speaking in Northern dialect. They offer between 30-40 different curries daily, with a self-serve fresh vegetable station. Their khao soi can be ordered with extra crispy noodles for additional texture.
Open from 9am to 9pm every day, Maan Muang is located quite far from central Bangkok (about 45 minutes by taxi), but the journey is worth it for serious Northern Thai food enthusiasts. Prices are higher than typical Northern Thai establishments, but the quality justifies the cost.
Founded by Chiang Mai native Chinnanan Sethachanan, Krua Jiangmai brings authentic Northern flavours to Thonglor. Starting as a delivery service during those challenging times of the turn of the decade, it’s now the area’s only dedicated Lanna cuisine establishment. Their beef khao soi (150 baht) features perfectly braised beef shank with an ideal ratio of meat to fat, swimming in a beautiful red curry broth.
Most ingredients are freshly sourced from the north, with sai ua and relishes made from scratch by Sethachanan’s family in Chiang Mai. The menu features rare Northern dishes like pork rib soup with chiang da, a Northern Thai vegetable known for its antioxidant properties. Prices are pocket-friendly by Thonglor standards.
For those seeking a contemporary twist on this traditional dish, Maze Dining in Phaya Thai offers an innovative take under the guidance of chef Phattanat ‘May’ Thongthong, runner-up in Top Chef Thailand’s first season. Here, khao soi appears in their Northern tasting menu (2,900 baht++) as ravioli filled with a fully-flavoured Northern curry sauce. Though it’s only a couple of bites of a dish we prefer to dive deep into and metaphorically bathe in, they’re damn good bites, capturing the essence of the famous dish in an intriguing, thoughtful way.
The restaurant occupies a sleek space with an open-bar kitchen and counter seating, plus a private room upstairs seating 10. Lunch served 11:30am to 2:30pm, dinner 5:30pm to 10pm.
Nestled between BTS Ari and Saphan Kwai stations on a bustling Phaya Thai thoroughfare, Hann Khao Soi has carved out a reputation among office workers and students alike for its authentic northern Thai offerings. Their beef khao soi achieves an impressive depth of flavor, with a rich, umami-laden broth that eschews excessive creaminess in favor of complexity – though the beef itself could benefit from longer braising.
However, it’s their khanom jeen nam ngiao that emerges as the unforeseen star: a masterful composition of spicy, tomato-based broth ladled over perfectly fermented rice noodles that even outshines celebrated versions in Chiang Mai. The air-conditioned dining room provides a clean, comfortable setting for exploring their broader menu of northern specialties, including khao mok gai and khanom jeen gaeng gai, making it an ideal refuge for those seeking authentic Lanna flavors in the heart of Phaya Thai.
The best time to visit these spots is during lunch hours (11:30am-1:30pm) when the broth is freshly made and at its most flavourful. Once it’s boiled for too long, something’s most certainly lost – it becomes a little cloying and too thick.
Essential condiments for customising your bowl: pickled mustard greens, shallots, lime wedges, and ground chilli paste.
Many establishments close early, typically by late afternoon.
Those wearing white shirts should be careful – the turmeric-rich curry broth can stain something rotten.
Some venues offer ‘dry’ versions (khao soi haeng) which are worth trying for a different take on the classic.
Whether you’re a first-time visitor or a Bangkok resident, these establishments offer some of the finest khao soi experiences outside of Northern Thailand. From traditional recipes passed down through generations to modern interpretations that push culinary boundaries, Bangkok’s khao soi scene has something for every palate and price point.
Ideal for those looking for a sit down meal with air conditioning in Ari.
A dedicated sky train stop, an enviable position both in the action and far enough from the brasher parts of town to feel laid back and sophisticated, we think it’s safe to say that Ari is central Bangkok’s hippest ‘hood. Unusually for the megacity, the neighbourhood feels gently paced, spacious and, whisper it, green and clean. It’s perfectly suited for strolling, with the pavements here lined with trees and a certain type of cute cafe that Thailand does so well.
What’s more, the high density of offices in the area means the street-level food options are high quality; when workers spill out at noon and late afternoon, they want to be fed properly. There’s no tourist toning down of spice and raising of price here; just amazing, accurately cooked grub.
With that in mind, here’s where to eat in Ari, Bangkok.
Lay Lao
When speaking of the perfect, quick Thai lunch, the ‘holy trinity’ is often mentioned; sticky rice, grilled chicken, and of course, som tam (pounded papaya salad). Lay Lao, just a two minute walk from Ari skytrain, does all three perfectly. That Ari lunchtime crowd certainly agree.
Being a restaurant with links to the seafood mecca of Hua Hin, many of the som tam salads have a pleasing shellfish bent; there’s a black crab, dried clam and squid version which notches high on both the saline and satisfying levels. Should the intriguing Southeast Asian fruit santol be in season, be sure to order a salad (som kratorn) using it; their signature dish and one which sells out quickly. Their grilled pork neck (mu yang) and squid stuffed with squid roe (pla muek yang) are both excellent, too.
There’s not many places in Bangkok whose khao soi stands up to a Chiang Mai version. But Ong Tong Khao Soi established their name first in Thailand’s second city before bringing their superb Lanna food to the capital. Regardless of location, they do the famous coconut and curry broth, with egg noodles, braised meat and all the fixings, as good as anywhere in the country.
If you’re wondering where to eat in Ari, Bangkok, particularly Northern Thai food, then this one might be for you. Though Lanna food in Bangkok is perhaps unrepresented compared to the country’s other regional cuisines, this place is humming every day of the week. Open from 10:30am to 8:30pm, and serving several other northern classics like the herbal sausage sai ua, and northern laap salad, this is a must visit for those wanting to try the food of Thailand’s north without leaving Bangers.
Among Ari’s many excellent lunch spots, Thanee Khao Moo Daeng has earned near-mythical status for doing two things exceptionally well. Their crispy pork (moo krob) arrives with shatteringly crunchy skin, while their red pork (moo daeng) is braised until tender in a glossy, vivid red gravy that’s become something of a signature, the red stains on starched white shirts doing some covert marketing when the office workers finish up lunch and head back to their desks.
The place thrives on repeat custom from the neighbourhood’s office crowd, who pack it out during peak hours. Time your visit for around 11am before the rush, or swing by after 2pm when the lunchtime frenzy has died down and you’ll have a much easier time securing a seat.
As a general rule, food from Thailand’s North East has a different soul to the rest; uncompromisingly spicy, super funky, no coconut milk and barely a hint of sugar. Perhaps most importantly, it’s insanely delicious.
Phed Phed, meaning ‘spicy spicy’ (as in, very), makes no sacrifices on how Isaan food should be. Bangkokians can’t get enough of it; the city has taken to the restaurant with open arms, it’s always full and two more outposts have recently been added to the roster.
The som tam salad here, in the original restaurant, comes in more than twenty iterations, most using the fermented fish sauce ‘pla ra’ so beloved of the region. The result is something funkier and certainly spicier than you might be used to, but it’s amazing. Also fantastic is their country style herbal soup (gaeng om) and pork fermented with sticky rice and garlic (the famous naem sausage) done rustic and coarse, rather than the smoother iterations you often find.
Though the food is self assured in its seasoning, the decor is a perfect match for ari; light, airy and with loads of foliage. If this sounds like your vibe, then make sure you book in advance via their Facebook page; enough English is spoken there to get by, and the menu has pictures and translations.
This unassuming neighbourhood spot has built a devoted following for its take on Betong-style chicken rice, a Thai-Chinese preparation that hails from Thailand’s deep south near the Malaysian border. The chicken arrives with taut, glossy skin and tender meat, served alongside fragrant rice cooked in chicken stock and a trio of dipping sauces that range from classic to seafood-infused variations.
The restaurant itself channels old-school Chinese diner vibes with its simple, nostalgic interior and brisk service. During peak lunch hours, expect to join the queue of office workers and locals who’ve made this a regular haunt. The complimentary chicken broth, available for refills throughout your meal, adds a comforting touch to what’s already a thoroughly satisfying plate of food.
Arrive late morning or during lunch service for the best chance of securing a table without the evening wait times.
Lovers of spicy Southern soul food in Bangkok have been raving about this hugely popular Southern Thai restaurant group for some time. The food of the region has been enjoying massive popularity in the city in recent years, and Khua Kling Pak Sod has certainly played a part in that acclaim. It all started in one beloved family run joint in downtown Sukhumvit, using family recipes and a faithful connection to the producers of the south, and the formula worked superbly; it has led to several more in the city.
The Ari rendition of Khua Kling Pak Sod keeps things consistent; classic Southern Thai dishes are unapologetically spicy, and fresh seafood is sourced from down south daily. The restaurant’s namesake dish khua kling – a minced pork curry, stir fried with red curry paste and served dry – throbs with local prik kee noo chillis to an almost nuclear level, and is all the better for it.
Their yellow coconut milk curry of crab meat, served with thin kanom jeen fermented rice noodles is another belter; offering less respite from the heat than the name suggests and, though we may be repeating ourselves, is all the better for it.
Perhaps steer clear if spice isn’t your thing. But if it is, Khua Kling Pak Sod is one of the best restaurants in the city.
The connoisseur’s choice, this. Soei, after a recent upping of sticks from its original position next to railway tracks down the road, is housed around 20 minutes from Ari BTS, and is a bit of a meander through the district’s alleyways; in other winds, bring sat nav! Make the dimly lit journey, though, and you’ll be rewarded with a Bangkok institution full of lively drinkers, crashing woks and noisy chatter.
The food here is defined by flavour rather than anything strictly regional, and there’s a fair amount of recipe riffing by the chef (a former sportsman whose medals and trophies are as close to ‘decor’ as you’ll get here). The fried mackerel faces – kaem pla too tod – are seasoned simply with garlic and salt, served with a chilli sauce, and are something of a signature. As such, it’s wise to ring ahead if you fancy a plateful. The fried egg salad – yam khai dao – is another must order. It’s oh so simple, but when done right, like it is here, it’s amazing.
One word of warning though; come prepared to wait. Service is slow, the chefs run to their own rhythm and it gets super busy later in the evening. Settle in with a beer, though, be prepared to take your time, and there’s no better place to get fed.
How times have changed. Only a few years ago, you were lucky if a pizza in Bangkok boasted mozzarella, marinara sauce, and a properly leavened dough, rather than cheddar, ketchup and some oddly sweet sliced white.
These days, the 480°C heat of Neapolitan wood burning ovens competes with Bangkok’s own sweltering temperatures just off the streets of Sukhumvit and beyond, as skilled Italian pizzaiolo make this wonderful city their home and young Thai chefs put their own spin on this beloved dish.
Still, if you’ve decided to forgo your usual som tam in favour of a margherita this evening, this pizza proliferation has made the paradox of choice more omnipresent than ever.
We’re here to help you separate the finely ground durum wheat from the chaff, with our guide to the very best pizza in Bangkok, from Neopolitan to New Yorker and beyond.
Peppina
We had to start here, at Peppina. Here, it’s real-deal Neapolitan pizzas, with authenticity the driving force behind the restaurant group’s (there are now six in Bangkok) continued success.
In fact, Peppina is one of Southeast Asia’s only AVPN certified, Napoli-style pizzeria, with the quality of the ingredients shining most strikingly in the most simple of pizzas, the marinara, with the sweet/tart interplay of the imported San Marzano tomatoes satisfying every craving for ”Western food” you’ll have in Bangkok.
Images via Peppina
Of course, you don’t have to order in such an austere fashion; there are some real gems to be found in Peppina’s Special Selection section of the menu, too. We particularly like the restaurant’s pizza carpaccio, with the fresh, creamy stracciatella and a smart squeeze of lemon lifting the dish to dizzy (and surprisingly refreshing) heights.
The pasta at Peppina is excellent, too. For us, the best bowls of pasta stay true to two pillars of all great Italian food; number one, the pasta should be the star, and two, the accompanying adornments must be fresh, of clarity, and celebrate the raw ingredient. Peppina follows both thoughtfully.
Their house favourites, which include an excellent vongole veraci and a paccheri pasta with slow cooked pork cheek ragu, are both well worth the visit, even if pizza isn’t your thing.
That clarity of ingredients is found just as keenly in the superb cocktails here; the house negroni delivers every time. This is, quite simply, the best pizza in Bangkok.
What started life as a food truck has now become an ambitious mini-empire, with a flagship bricks-and-mortar restaurant on Ruam Rudee, a second branch in a small food court in Sathorn and the original pizza truck on Soi Sukhumvit 49. All boast enormous dual pizza ovens built by expert pizza oven maker Stefano Ferrara.
Images via Pizza Massilia
This sense of confidence and aspiration extends to the pizzas here. Whilst Peppina seems to work best when deploying a ‘less is more’ approach, at Pizza Massilia, it’s all about true indulgence in topping form. Though the pizzas are nominally Neapolitan, plenty of luxury French ingredients make their way onto the menu. With that ethos in mind, go for the foie gras, fior di latte and organic figs, followed by a long, satisfied lie down.
Now for something different over in the trendy Ekkamai district, Pizza Mazzie is run by New Yorker Jon Spearman, with the pizzas here an interesting hybrid of American and Italian sensibilities, ingredients and technique.
Images via Pizza Mazzie
The oven here is the revered ‘low dome’ Acunto, built in Naples, and the dough is light and airy, owing to its super slow-fermentation process. It arrives blistered and burnished in all the right places, with Spearman’s refined approach to toppings (he believes that there should be no more than three, as a rule) meaning the pizzas at Mazzie are surprisingly delicate.
Our go-to order is the Brooklyn classic cheese (restrained in that it uses just two cheeses, fior di latte and grana padano) which in less capable hands could be a little burdensome, but here it’s sensational.
Biodynamic wines and craft beers complete the package, making Pizza Mazzie an incredibly convivial place to spend an evening. And spend many evenings here we have…
Not to be confused with Pizza Maru Korean Pizza & Chicken fifteen minutes up the green line in Central World, Maru Maru Pizza is something else entirely. This, this is a self-styled ‘pizza garage’ at the very east end of Sukhumvit where things otherwise get a little non-descript, a place where Neapolitan pizza meets vinyl culture, and the music you’re hearing is as considered as what’s coming out of the wood-fired oven. It’s putting Phra Khanong on the map, somewhat. In the eyes of the city’s culinary cognoscenti, at least.
The setting is half workshop, half dining room, with steel, timber and concrete softened by good lighting and bottles lined up with intention. There’s a DJ booth opposite the open kitchen, and the reassuring flicker of a classic cupola doing its work, and on any given evening you might drift from modern soul into Japanese jazz, or catch Balearic rhythms threading through the space.
The pizzas are broadly Neapolitan in style, though a little crisper, the pock marks a little blacker. The menu splits into three sections: classic pizzas (your margheritas, your marinaras), Maru’s Pizza (house specials like the smoked pork belly, cherry tomato and chilli), and Maru Maru Pizza, which rotates seasonally and can get quite experimental.
From that latter section, a Thai-influenced gaeng kua goong pizza didn’t quite land and seems to have quietly disappeared from the menu, but the stronger offerings here are the ones that stay closer to Italian foundations. The burro rosso is both the most simple and arguably the signature; it brings butter, anchovies and garlic together in something closer to garlic bread than pizza. It’s bloody good.
The natural wine list runs deeper than you’d expect from a warehouse. Bottles start around the 1,900 baht mark and climb to nearly 3,000 baht, with a decent selection by the glass if you’re not committing to a full bottle.
The pizzas here aren’t huge, so if you’re hungry, order accordingly.
If you’re looking for a truly American style pizza, then you should check out Pizza Mania, just off Asok BTS Station in Bangkok’s downtown.
The pizzas here are thin-crust and crisp, and generously topped with a whole raft of meats, shellfish, and even pasta sauces (Carbonara pizza? Check. Bolognese sauce pizza? Check.).
Images via Pizza Mania
Yep, this one wouldn’t pass the Nonna test, sure, but if you get that very specific itch – often brought on by a hangover, admittedly – that only an American pizza can scratch, then Pizza Mania is a very satisfying slice, indeed.
Look out for the restaurant’s monthly deep pan Detroit style pizzas, which are properly indulgent and too infrequently on the menu, in our humble opinion. Make them a regular thing, guys!
Next up we’re heading to Bangkok’s Sathorn district, to Via Emilia, which aims to faithfully recreate the food and hospitality of Italy’s famous Emilia Romagna region. It’s pure escapism, and sometimes, after a hectic and hot day in Bangkok, it’s just the kind of place you want to sink into.
Though this tribute to a region that encompasses the foodie meccas of Bologna, Modena and Parma focuses on all the main food groups (pasta, risotto, cheese, salami… You get the jist), the pizzas at Via Emilia certainly aren’t an afterthought.
Made in the Bolognese style (no, not topped with ragu, but rather, with thin and crispy crusts), the dough is naturally leavened and left to ferment for 72 hours, resulting in an enjoyable lightness and depth of flavour. The parma ham and burrata, which is added fridge-cold once the pizza is cooked, and is subsequently refreshing, exemplifies this light touch. Delicious.
IDEAL Tip: We know this is an article about pizza, but you’d be a fool not to order the strozzapreti con le canocchie on your visit – hand twisted pasta with mantis shrimps in tomato sauce – yes, please.
Speaking of regional Italian restaurants that do a mean pizza, Il Bolognese is – and does – just that. This trattoria has been a stalwart of the Bangkok dining scene for over a decade, knocking out Italian comfort food, top-notch pizzas and pouring very drinkable claret to the weary masses in an elegant dining room that feels like a film set, so faithfully furnished it is.
Indeed, you may well forget you’re in Bangkok during your leisurely lunch here, with the Partenopea pizza (essentially, a margherita) a relative steal at under 400 baht. Whether or not you actually want to forget you’re in one of the world’s most exciting cities is another matter. Anyway, on to the next pizza…
A very different proposition at Pala Pizza Romana, and our list’s first dalliance with Roman pizza. Here, the metre long, rectangular pizza al taglio sits in the window on a paddle, a pala, enticing Bangkokians inside to grab a slice (or should that be ‘square’?) for a very reasonable 90 baht.
The base is thick, with a crisp bottom and fluffy middle, similar to focaccia and very much in the Roman style, with toppings restrained but refined. The capricciosa here is particularly fine.
Alongside their pizza offering is a good selection of pasta and other dishes. Their fritti (deep fried) offerings are particularly good – think suppli, classic crocchette and our fritti favourite – the Amatriciana, filled with tender as you like cured pork cheek. Squisito!
We promised young Thai chefs putting their own spin on pizza in our introduction, so we had to include Chef Bing’s Pizza, which has been making waves in Lumphini in recent months.
We say ‘had to’, but the New York style pies here more than deserve their inclusion on merit alone, and the inventiveness of the toppings here is certainly a refreshing change.
Image via Chef Bing
Run by Navapan ‘Chef Bing’ Puangpakdee, who moved from Thailand to New York at the age of 7, there are some pretty out-there pizzas on the menu here, including one – the kor moo yang pizza – which repurposes the beloved Thai streetfood staple of grilled pork neck into a gorgeous pizza topping, finessed further with sawtooth coriander and toasted rice powder. Trust us; it works!
We return to something more traditional to finish, to a restaurant that sits on the other side of Lumpini Park to the aforementioned Chef Bing; Nonna Nella By Lenzi.
The only place on our list to be featured in Bangkok’s Michelin Guide, it’s the quality of the ingredients that sets Nonna Nella apart. All the hams and cheeses are produced on chef Lenzi’s farm, and other ingredients such as the tomatoes for the superb pizzas are 100% organic and hand-selected by the chef himself.
Image via Nonna Nella by Lenzi
Those pizzas, by the way, boast a thinner, crisper crust than their Neopotlian counterparts, and are generously adorned with that excellent produce from the Lenzi family farm. It’s a wonderful way to finish our list of Bangkok’s best pizzas. Now, excuse us, we need a lie down for several days.
One of Tokyo’s most celebrated pizzerias has now made its way to Bangkok, bringing its unique Tokyo-Napoli hybrid style to Sukhumvit 49 with a quiet but confident January 2025 opening. In a suave, expensive-feeling room which feels more suited to one of Bangkok’s Michelin-starred experiences than humble ol’ pizza, PST’s are anything but.
Characterised by their distinctive use of Okinawa salt, which is thrown into a specially commissioned Japanese wood-fired oven before each pizza is cooked, lending a subtle yet compelling salinity to every bite, these are precise, skilful pizzas that still manage to keep that cherished lack of uniformity – blisters, bubbles and all – that mark the planet’s truly great pizzas.
The dough at Pizza Studio Tamaki undergoes a meticulous 30-hour proofing process, resulting in a crust that’s wonderfully light and airy, with a pleasant salty-sour tang. Their signature Tamaki pizza (priced at a premium 590 baht) showcases this perfectly, topped with smoked mozzarella, cherry tomatoes, sheep’s milk cheese and fresh basil. For something with a bit more kick, the Nduja brings a welcome hit of spice from its namesake spreadable salami, which is produced for the restaurant back in Japan to a bespoke recipe.
The attention to detail extends beyond the pizzas; their PST Meatballs – a blend of pork and wagyu beef slow-cooked in tomato sauce – are a must-order, as is the showstopping matcha panna cotta finale, which uses green tea from Uji, Kyoto, offering a distinctly Japanese twist on an Italian classic.
Taking its name from the precise weight of sourdough required for the perfect pizza, this newcomer to Silom opened in late 2024 but has already carved out its own niche in the city’s competitive pizza scene.
Housed on the second floor of The Quarter Hotel, 90 Grams specialises in both traditional Neapolitan pizzas and inventive focaccia-style variations. Their margherita (a relatively affordable, but relatively small, 190 baht) arrives with a crust so comically canotto’d that it’s almost risen on itself and subsumed the toppings. Christ, it’s light, digestible work though, and you could take two or three down quite comfortably in a single sitting.
The signature focaccia pizzas are more sizeable. The mortadella version (a more sizeable 520 baht), topped with four types of premium cheese, wild rocket and pistachios, is particularly noteworthy. The space stays open until the wee hours (2am most nights), making it perfect for those post-midnight pizza cravings. The addition of sparkling wines by the glass makes this an excellent spot for a casual evening out, whether you’re starting your night or ending it.
If you’re wondering where to eat the must try dishes of Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam’s biggest, most exciting metropolis, then you’ve come to the right place. Well, actually, the right place would be Ho Chi Minh City, but in the virtual world, you’ve come to the right place, IDEAL magazine, for the top tips on the best places to street food in Saigon.
We’ve all got a bit confused here, haven’t we?
Let’s confuse things further; ‘street food’ might be a slight misnomer these days. Many of the city’s legendary hawkers have since moved inside, with a roof over their head and a clearer set of opening hours. But make no mistake: plastic stools remain, that kinetic dining room energy is guaranteed, and the food is as authentic as it gets. Street food, after all, is more a state of mind than a postcode.
Pedants (hopefully) dispensed with, let’s start again, and stick to what we know; insider tips, street food recommendations, and the very best versions of the very best Vietnamese dishes. Here’s our guide on where to eat the best street food in Ho Chi Minh City.
Xoi Ga Number One (District 1)
Ideal for skipping your hotel buffet for Saigon’s finest breakfast…
The queue outside Xoi Ga Number One, just off Ben Thanh Market, forms before Quan 1’s backpackers have even gone to bed. They’re lining up for some of the finest sticky rice in town; a simple and satisfying plate of glutinous rice topped with poached chicken, house-made pate, fried shallots, and a quail egg or two.
The current owner’s grandmother started this operation in the 1950s as a street cart on nearby Nguyen An Ninh, selling xoi bap. Her daughter took over, then her grandson Nguyen Hieu Trung introduced the poached chicken element that’s made the place famous. It isn’t revolutionary – it’s just the platonic ideal of the dish, and you can taste that generational refinement in just how pitch-perfect this xoi ga is.
The rice has bite and is the right side of homogenous without clumping. The pate is just off-rough and rich, not the rubbery stuff you sometimes encounter. The shallots stay crisp and golden, the pickles piquant.
And then there’s the house chilli oil, with which to anoint. This is Xoi Ga Number One’s trump card, an incendiary mixture of dried chilli, fresh whole ones, deep-fried garlic, and cubes of crispy pork lard. Oh, and the oil is actually rendered pork fat. It’s absurdly good.
The shopfront is small, with limited seating on plastic stools out on the street. But xoi ga is grab-and-go food anyway. Open from half six in the morning until half eight at night, which means you can indulge your sticky rice cravings pretty much whenever they strike. When the xoi is this good, they often strike more than once in the same day.
Ideal for a grilled pork belly, fermented rice noodle and fresh herb salad…
Let’s hit the streets and do what the Viets do best; perch on plastic stools and eat some of the freshest, lightest, most delicious grub in the world.
Bun thit nuong is one of the South’s finest dishes; a barbecued pork salad over lightly fermented ‘bun’ noodles, crisp lettuce and loads of herbs. This is topped with roasted peanuts, crispy shallots on occasion, pickled carrots and daikon, and a dipping sauce which defines southern Viet food; fish sauce, a little lime, sugar and chilli.
Courtesy of bunthitnuongchituyen
There are proud purveyors all over town slinging this classic to hungry punters, but Chi Tuyen’s version, on Co Giang street (a great strip for all manner of Vietnamese street food), is perhaps our favourite. Make sure you include cha gio in your order; a crispy spring roll filled with glass noodles, wood ear mushrooms and, usually, a little minced pork and prawn or crab.
Ideal for a gold standard version, in the city that birthed the banh mi…
Needing little in the way of introduction, the world conquering Vietnamese sandwich appears in myriad forms across Ho Chi Minh City. And since this was the city that (probably) spawned the first banh mi, there really is no better place in the world to eat the crispy baguette filled with grilled and cured meat, pickles, herbs, hot sauce and more than in Saigon.
Though we’d rather not put our neck on the line and suggest just one place to enjoy ‘the best’ banh mi in Ho Chi Minh City (hell, we’ve barely tried 1% of them…there are just so many), the popular consensus is that Banh Mi Huynh Hoa does a damn fine, damn definitive version. But honestly, if you simply step out of your hotel and look for a queue forming, you’ll likely stumble across your favourite version in the world. And that’s what it’s all about, right?
That said, we’re going for something a little different this second time around. At Banh Mi 37 on Nguyen Trai, the baguettes are stuffed with grilled, caramelised pork patties (not dissimilar to those you get in your bun cha up north) and paired with thick wedges of gently salted cucumber, shredded, pickled papaya, coriander, and a piquant chilli sauce. Heaven.
This one is takeaway only, but you can lean against a wall (or against your motorbike) in the adjacent alleyway and wolf down several quite easily. No one will judge you for it…
Ideal for ebullient, light hearted dining with plenty of flavour…
With a name translating (affectionately, we should add) as ‘Fatty’s Restaurant’, you know you’re in for a good feed at Beo Oi Quan, a comfortable, pleasingly airy restaurant that leans on the Northern Vietnamese culinary canon to satisfying ends.
It’s a cheerful place to settle into, with cartoon illustrations of some of the signature dishes on the wall, buoyant service, and a vibe that doesn’t feel rushed. Hell, even the menu font is a little jaunty! From that menu, many come for the hotpot, which is convivial and generous, but the bun rieu cua is the real star of the show here. That Hanoian freshwater crab and tomato noodle soup is just so refreshing in the sweltering heat.
Speaking of refreshing, the kumquat and honey drink, served over ice, is as thirst quenching as it comes. Một cái nữa, please…
Ideal for grilled beef wrapped in piper leaf, to be enjoyed kerbside…
Back to Co Giang street, which is home to a string of bo la lot restaurants; one dish you certainly want to try before leaving town. Minced beef – a little spicy, a little peppery – is wrapped in piper leaf (‘betel’ leaf to many), grilled until smoky and served with a huge plate of herbs and lettuce, which you use to make your own wraps. So good, so moreish, and so cheap, too.
At Hoang Yen’s you’ll see the addition of a sweet, sour mayonnaise on the beef wraps. If that’s not your thing (weirdly, it works), then let them know; a simple ‘khong’ (meaning ‘no’) + ‘may/yon/naise’ (just split those syllables out) should do the trick. The do-it-yourself assembly job routine makes for a more languid approach to dinner than some other street food joints where you may feel a little rushed. Great for an evening with friends and beer, then.
Ideal for charcoal-grilled beef that lets the smoke do the talking…
We couldn’t dine out all article on Saigon’s best street food without having a second round of bo la lot. It’s said that the city’s favourite dish (don’t @me, broken rice) lives or dies on two things: the beef mixture and the char that sets off just the right amount of bitterness in the betel leaf. At Co Lieng, they’ve had thirty years to get both aspects just right. Let’s just say they’ve absolutely mastered it.
The beef here is seasoned with lemongrass, garlic, and enough spice to register without overwhelming. The betel leaves (yes, we know they’re piper sarmentosum really) are wrapped tight around the meat, then grilled out front over charcoal. The smoke throws a peppery fragrance over the compact dining room that overrides any perfume you’ve sprayed on for your night at Apocalypse Now.
The accoutrements all arrive looking sharp and purposeful, inviting wrapping and rolling. The plate of herbs – perilla in both green and purple, pennywort, Thai basil, lettuce – is as pert and fresh as you’ll ever see on the street, and the pickles and dipping sauce (this one spiked with fermented shrimp paste) are note-perfect.
Ideal for a noodle soup of shrimp, pig heart, quail’s egg and more…
We’re going to resist pho recommendations just yet, because if it’s noodle soup we’re after in the south, it has to be hu tieu. Though it comes in many forms, our favourite version is Hu Tieu Nam Vang, a glorious meeting of Chinese and Cambodian influences and just a fantastic, uniquely flavoured bowl of goodies.
By SamuelBrownNG via Canva
The hu tieu noodles are defined by a proper rice-y flavour and decent bite, and the pork bone based broth is clear and light. Expect plenty of sliced pork offal and mince floating in the soup, as well as a couple of large shrimp as standard. The rest is up to both the server and your own whim. The district 3 joint Hu Tieu Nam Vang Nhan Quan do an excellent version.
The founder of Hong Phat, Dang Thi Tuyet, learned to make hu tieu Nam Vang in 1970s Phnom Penh. A political coup in Cambodia in 1970 led to increased anti-Vietnamese sentiment, so she and her husband relocated to Saigon despite the war raging between North and South. In 1975 she opened a humble stall in her parents-in-law’s house.
The restaurant has since expanded into a spacious, air-conditioned operation on Vo Van Tan that’s perhaps slicker than it needs to be, but is certainly a comfortable place to eat your lunch.
The hu tieu here sticks to its Khmer-Chinese origins. The broth is pork bone and dried seafood, simmered in gigantic cauldrons for hours, clear and sweet without being cloying. The noodles have bite (order yours dry with the soup on the side to retain that edge). The toppings – tiger prawns, pork offal, blood cake, poached slices of pork, bean sprouts – arrive in generous quantities, finished with fried garlic and with fresh herbs on the side. It starts mellow and wonderfully restorative, and as you get to the bottom of the bowl, it suddenly intensifies, all of your self-seasoning suddenly coming alive in a raucous few final bites.
There are also handmade steamed buns, delicate and fragrant, displayed out front to lure you in (or, indeed, take away as you’re leaving for a little late afternoon pick-me-up). A word for the makrut lime soda, which is the most delicious cure for dehydration we’ve ever encountered.
Service is efficient, credit cards accepted. Open daily from half six in the morning until half ten at night.
Ideal for broken rice and grilled pork chop close to the backpacker strip…
Only fools commit their fractured rice grains to the bin. Indeed, ever creative Vietnamese cooks have created a whole dish celebrating their imperfection; com tam (‘broken rice’) is found all over Ho Chi Minh City, served with an array of customisable sides and toppings. And regardless of just how many of those toppings you plonk on your plate, and despite the fact that you’ll feel as though you could always add one more, this dish is proudly all about the rice.
By SamuelBrownNG via Canva
That said, the city’s most popular accoutrement is a thin, grilled pork chop, glazed until sweet and burnished until bronze. But no local would stop there, and neither should you. A cripsy, runny egg, a mound of pork floss, fresh cucumber, pickled carrot…these are just some of the many delicious extras you should be adding. Don’t hold back, and you’ll be richly rewarded with a nourishing plateful. And full is the operative word here.
Ideal for Bourdain-approved, pork and shrimp filled crispy crepes…
Next up, a dish from Central Vietnam that’s wildly popular on the streets of this Southern juggernaut; banh xeo. Rice flour, turmeric flour and water is fried until crispy, forming a taco-like shell which is filled with shrimp, minced pork, bean sprouts and the ubiquitous, ever welcome mountain of fresh herbs. Traditionally this pancake is then wrapped in rice paper and more lettuce and eaten accompanied with a sharp, salty dipping sauce of fish sauce, vinegar and chilli.
At Banh Xeo 46A, made even more popular by the patronage of Anthony Bourdain, you’ll find pancake slinging of the highest order, and baskets of fresh herbs stacked even higher. Ăn ngon nhé!
By SamuelBrownNG via Canva
A word of warning; prices are pretty premium here, owing to the joint’s popularity following its numerous TV appearances. Other (cheaper) versions do exist!
Ideal for beef pho done right, close to Ben Thanh Market…
Pho 2000, close to Ho Chi Minh’s famous Ben Thanh Market, is found via the stairs of the now ubiquitous Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, and its first floor position means it’s a more upright, comfortable meal than those eaten with eyes at Honda Wave level.
Bill Clinton is proudly pictured on the walls enjoying a bowl; so much so, he ordered two apparently. A more reliable judge of the pho’s quality is the fact that it’s packed, every lunchtime, with plenty of locals, who come in their droves for the huge bowls of delicately flavoured, sweet and spicy broth and tender cuts of beef. Take us back.
Ideal for an excellent version of Hanoi-style pho in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City…
An arguably even better bowl of the good stuff is found over at Pho Hung, a short walk along Duong Le Lai from Pho 2000.
Owing to its bold black and yellow signage, you’ll spot Pho Hung even sooner than you catch its enticing aroma, all sweet star anise and smoky aniseed notes from black cardamom wafting out from the gently ramshackle shophouse.
Follow your nose inside and pull up a stool at the restaurant’s stretch of shared tables. Though service is straightforward, you’ll find all the bells and whistles you need in that bowl that’s placed unceremoniously in front of you; this is truly sublime pho, clean yet rich, and close to the Northern-style of being savoury and supremely well balanced.
Order the Dac Biet (house special) which has both raw slices of sirloin and long braised bits of brisket alongside meatballs and our favourite, chewy, resilient tendon. It’s very good indeed.
Ideal for a nourishing bowl of chicken pho with added offal alongside…
All that said, the best bowl of pho in Ho Chi Minh City, we think, is served at Pho Mien Ga Ky Dong over in District 3. The chicken version of Vietnam’s most famous dish, this particular rendition is best enjoyed with glass noodles, the broth adhering to the sticky strands just so.
A light, bright, clean dining room that’s open from the moment the sun comes up until late in the evening, Pho Mien Ga Ky Dong is always bustling, with locals ordering dark thigh meat for the bowl, and a side plate of braised liver and a tangle of Vietnamese mint for picking over. You should do the same.
Bun bo hue is a dish of contradiction. It’s supremely light, yet below the surface, the baritone thrum of shrimp paste is unmistakable. It’s clean and clear, superficially, but dappled across its facade is chili oil, ready to induce a humidity-defying sweat.
That contradiction continues, where the best version of the dish we’ve tasted isn’t served in the city of its origin (Hue, hence the…), but instead here, in Saigon. At Bun Bo Hue Chu Ha, where the noodles, oxtail and braised meats are all stacked high out front, the art of bun bo hue has been perfected.
Image via @BunbohueChuHa
Served from glass bowls, it’s pleasing to observe your own personal flourishes, of lime juice, chilli oil, garlic vinegar and the rest, dropping to the bottom of the bowl, fish tank style. It’s just what the doctor ordered in Ho Chi Minh City’s 40 degree heat.
Ideal for another round of pho after several rounds of craft beer…
After that brief interlude, we’re back in search of a damn fine pho, keen to recalibrate our sense of what this famous dish is all about.
There’s no better place to do so than at Pho Hoa Pasteur, which sits on Pasteur Street (named after the renowned microbiologist Louis Pasteur). Incidentally, the soon-to-be world-conquering Pasteur Street Taproom is just round the corner, and their signature craft beer is excellent.
Anyway, this popular restaurant has been serving exemplary beef pho for almost six decades now. As well as the usual braised and raw bits, you can add tripe, tendon and golf-ball sized meatballs to your pho here. An absolute mountain of foliage, including sawtooth coriander, several forms of basil, and mustard greens, arrives alongside the main event, all in the name of personalisation.
One of Vietnam’s most beloved street food experiences, eating sea snails, reaches its gold standard version at Oc Dao. Open from 10:30am to 10pm daily, you’ll find a huge variety of these cherished molluscs, done in both prosaic and inventive ways.
Follow your nose, of course, but certainly order the oc toi. Here, palm-sized shells are grilled until smokey and bubbling from their aperturals. Hoik the snail flesh out with a toothpick in one graceful motion and dredge through its adjacent, piquant chilli and garlic dipping sauce. Also order oc buou nhoi thit – that’s snails stuffed with pork – and the octopus teeth (whose translation escapes us), which arrive swimming in a viscous, sweet garlic butter. Incredible stuff.
If snails aren’t your thing, there’s a whole host of other shellfish options here, from clams to scallops and beyond. This is nhậu culture at its very best. Shout for a few Big Saigons with plenty of attitude and plenty of ice, and settle in to one of the quintessential Saigon eating experiences.
Ideal for entering the nhậu zone via the swirls of a snail…
Vinh Khanh Street in District 4 stretches for about a kilometre, and nearly every shopfront along it is dedicated to one thing: oc. Snails, in every conceivable preparation. Steamed with lemongrass, baked with cheese, stir-fried in coconut milk, sautéed with tamarind. Each variety demands its own extraction technique with a toothpick, which makes for fidgety, messy, time-consuming eating, the kind where the beers flow and conversation gets increasingly bawdy as the night wears on.
Beyond snails, there are scallops glistening with scallion oil, razor clams tossed with morning glory, mantis shrimp grilled with salt and chilli. Oc Oanh at number 534 has been at this for nearly twenty years but wears its Michelin Bib Gourmand award lightly. The salt-roasted crab claws are the signature, alongside grilled shrimp and snails cooked in rich, spicy sauces. But the quality along the entire strip is strong. Follow your nose, look for the crowds, order too much.
Most restaurants fire up around noon, but the street comes alive after dark when the neon buzzes and the beer flows faster. You’ll find people ripping into shellfish well past midnight, seemingly oblivious to the time or the fact their white t-shirt has been ruined by the spray of garlic butter.
Ideal for curing the night’s ills with frog congee…
We’re having frog congee next, at Chao Ech Singapore. We’ve waited this long to introduce this lovely Singaporean-inspired dish to the mix as this streetside joint, located on the peripheries of bustling Tan Dinh Market, is only open from 7pm.
Really, it’s positioned as a late night place that cures the evening’s sins, the signature sweet and spicy frog stew and accompanying plain, cloudlike congee the perfect foil to a night of rice wine. Iced lettuce shows the deceptively simple restaurant’s commendable attention to detail.
Images via @chaoechtandinh
A perch on plastic stools and an open grill wafting thick smoke around only adds to the lively atmosphere.
Ideal for beer fuelled feasting and making new friends…
Lang Nuong Nam Bo is a sprawling, beer-fuelled restaurant that opened just before the turn of the millennium and has been packed with rowdy revellers ever since.
They’re all here for one thing; the whole-roasted baby suckling pig. Served with deep-fried glazed buns that either look like snails or turds depending on how you look at them, the pork is served portioned into cubes but still on the bone, retaining all its juices. Crisp, lacquered skin adorns every bite-sized chunk. Heaven.
Really, it’s just one plate though, of a massive spread of Vietnamese drinking food, the shredded bamboo salad another highlight. Plates of prawns showered in deep fried garlic, salted ribs, boiled paddy crabs… It’s all here, and it’s all designed to make you drink more beer. Not that we’re complaining.
You better practise your chugging skills before pitching up; this is the kind of place where it’s a surprise if you don’t end up joining forces with the party next to you. Clinking glasses and downing beers with your newfound friends naturally follows…
Pha lau – braised offal in a spiced, coconut-enriched broth – is one of those dishes that divides opinion before anyone’s even tried it. Ignore the bores and the trepidatious, and get yourself lost in the District 4’s tangle of alleys, where Pha Lau Co Thao has been simmering heart, lung and liver for decades. Here, there’s no debate; the place is packed.
The dish itself is Teochew in origin, brought to Saigon by Chinese migrants who extolled the virtues of using every part of the animal. What arrives at your table is a bowl of pork intestines, all meticulously cleaned then braised for hours in a coconut broth spiked with five-spice, cinnamon, star anise. The result is rich without being heavy, aromatic but still tasting of offal.
Co Thao’s version stands out for the broth, which boasts a fine natural sweetness and a golden colour. The offal itself is tender but retains some chew – a sign it’s been handled properly. You can order it in a bowl with the broth, or have it stir-fried if you prefer something drier.
It’s typically eaten with banh mi, the bread soaking up the coconut-rich liquid, or with instant noodles that do much the same thing but require chopsticks rather than hands. A side of tangy tamarind dipping sauce cuts through the richness. God it’s good.
Ideal for one of Southern Vietnam’s most substantial noodle dishes…
Banh canh cua – a kind of crab noodle soup – doesn’t get the same international attention as some of Vietnam’s more headlining noodle dishes, which is a shame because it’s arguably more interesting. The noodles are thicker – made with tapioca and rice flour – with a chew that’s closer to udon than anything else in the Vietnamese repertoire. The broth is thickened with brown crab, giving it a dense consistency that clings to those sticky noodles and refuses to let go. Do we even need to say how satisfying this is to eat?
Ut Le, on To Hien Thanh in District 10, is one of Saigon’s premier purveyors of the stuff, its popularity a firm indicator of the quality within. The restaurant now sprawls across multiple shopfronts, all identifiable by the crab mascot out front, though you’ll likely be seated in one of the back rooms at a low table with knee-high stools that actually make slurping all the easier.
The bowl arrives bubbling. Inside: thick noodles, crab cakes made with cá thác lác (a Southeast Asian freshwater fish), quail eggs, blood cake, deep fried tofu, shrimp, some random beef, and flakes of crab meat dispersed throughout the soup. It’s substantial – one bowl is a meal, not a snack.
There’s no menu; you just indicate how many servings you want and whether you’d like the larger size with extra toppings. Most people stick with the standard, which at 45,000 VND is already generous. It’s pretty rich, and you’ll want to cut it with the tabletop seasonings; the fresh line and chopped chilli are essential if you’re to finish a bowl.
The restaurant opens at 4pm and runs until late, which makes it a popular dinner spot rather than a breakfast or lunch option.
We end, as so many do in Ho Chi Minh City, sitting across from Ben Thanh Market, hunched over a bowl of noodles. Bun Mam Phan Boi Chau is one of the city’s most popular purveyors of bun mam, a popular Southern noodle soup that boasts a moody, funky broth that’s salty and pungent from a good dose of fermented shrimp paste and fermented fish sauce. All that pugency is tempered by both an underlying sweetness and the tartness of tamarind, both of which help pull things back from the brink.
Added to that incredibly moreish broth are noodles, of course, but also squid, prawns and pork belly. Grab yourself a napkin and get slurping; this is one fine way to end our roundup of Ho Chi Minh City’s best food.
If the Vietnamese capital is said to run on coffee thick and sweet with condensed milk, then we think it’s fair to say that Hanoians bleed pho, with no two establishments serving the same bowl and the best versions closely guarded secrets handed down through the generations. Accordingly, finding purveyors of this national Vietnamese dish is the easiest thing you’ll ever do in the city. Finding the very best versions is another story, though…
Though beef pho is, to so many visitors, the headlining Hanoi dish, it’s actually chicken pho (the ol’ pho ga) that’s more popular in the city. It’s the city’s go-to, its day one, its every day. It’s the one that Hanoians crave when the weather changes, a source of replenishment and rehydration, a soul-soother and heartwarmer.
Where To Eat The Best Pho Ga (Chicken Noodle Soup) In Hanoi
Here’s where you’ll find the best bowls of chicken pho (pho ga) in Hanoi.
Pho Ga Nguyet, Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter)
Ideal for a dry version of the famous soup…
Light, herbaceous, restorative chicken pho in Hanoi is its own thing, a world away from the beef version’s assertive savouriness and rich mouthfeel. In fact, as a rule, if a shophouse or stall serves both chicken and beef pho, it’s reasonable to assume that neither is the greatest rendition, the two disciplines not interchangeable by any means.
Just outside of the Old Quarter proper, on Phu Doan, a stretch of road defined by garages and motorbike repairs, you’ll find one of Hanoi’s best versions of chicken pho at Pho Ga Nguyet.
Two key moves with your order here; one, and though the white breast meat is automatically allocated to non-Viets, you should request the dark chicken meat (the shophouse now offers a breakdown of the bird in diagram form, with the butt meat being the most prized and expensive cut), which is so much more flavourful.
Two, order the dish ‘tron’ – or dry. That’s where Pho Ga Nguyet really excels, the standard noodle soup turned into a gorgeous noodle salad, with a chicken fat and soy sauce spiked dressing that coats every damn noodle strand.
Images via @phoganguyet
The main man here, wielding the cleaver all evening in the shophouse’s entrance, speaks a little English, and is a charming presence. Owing to the shophouse’s daytime operations fixing motorbikes and revving engines, Pho Ga Nguyet is an evening only affair, though they have recently expanded into adjacent buildings to cope with increased demand after Michelin bestowed them with a Bib Gourmand award.
During the dinner rush (between 6pm and around 7:30pm), you might have to wait five minutes to get a seat. It’s worth it. Though we’re damn prone to hyperbole, the dry chicken pho here (pho ga tron) is our favourite bowl of pho in Hanoi, period. It is fucking immense.
A rare thing for Hanoian pho shophouses, this one stays open late, too, closing at around midnight.
Address:5b P. Phủ Doãn, Hàng Trống, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội 100000, Vietnam
Pho Ga Mai Anh, Hai Ba Trung District
Ideal for a cleansing bowl of chicken noodle soup that could dust off any hangover…
The Hanoi episode of Parts Unknown where Anthony Bourdain takes then-president Obama for bun cha will be familiar to anyone who cringes when they declare themselves a foodie, right? Well, following its broadcast and change of branding – to ‘Obama Bun Cha’, no less – the word on the street is that standards have slipped.
Not to worry. Give the tour coaches unloading onto Le Van Huu a wide berth and instead head next door for one of the best chicken noodle soups in the city, at Pho Ga Mai Anh.
This is one clean broth, boasting a crystalline flavour not far removed from a good chicken consomme. Aside from tender poached chicken meat, a couple of bouncy chicken balls and yielding rice noodles, only a few slices of the green of spring onions adulterate the bowl. Seemingly, a judgement has been made that any other herbs would only muddy the broth. We think it’s a good shout, as Mai Anh’s chicken pho really is a celebration of that replenishing broth.
A tall glass of iced jasmine tea is all you need now.
Address: 32 P. Lê Văn Hưu, Phan Chu Trinh, Hai Bà Trưng, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Pho Ga Tron, Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter)
Ideal for a local favourite…
Popular on a summer’s day, another dry (well, not dry, rather; ‘soupless’) pho to try is the banger at Pho Ga Tron on Lan Ong street. This is a legendary spot beloved of locals for the restaurant’s use of ga ta – chicken raised in the country that’s had a good run around and frolic, its flesh benefiting in flavour from its freedom. Or, as Hanoians more succinctly put it, “gym chicken”.
Any establishment serving industrial chicken is frowned upon and largely ignored by Hanoian patronage. Much like our free-range chicken, ga ta has a richer taste and the meat is firmer in texture. And so it is at Pho Ga Tron, where the chicken pho is present in tron format, what your Ottolenghi or your Oliver might call a ‘noodle salad’. There is actually a small bowl of soup served on the side when ordering pho tron – some might choose to spoon a little over the noodles to make them all silky and slippery. We certainly do.
Anyway, this one is really herbal, with bright, zippy notes and an enjoyable low thrum of sweetness from deep fried shallots and peanuts. The dressing is gorgeous; rich but light, and soy sauce defined. What a treat it is.
On special occasions (we’ve enjoyed this one during September’s Moon Festival), you’ll find black chicken served at Pho Ga Tron, a deliciously aniseed affair with delicate translucent noodles and promises of getting healed from a medicinal, bracing, but utterly gorgeous broth.
A little further down the road, you’ll find Pho Hanh which we hear also does a good version of Pho Tron, although we’re yet to try it. On their Facebook page, a recent post with Mark Wiens fills us with confidence that this place is the real deal.
Address: 65B P. Lãn Ông, Hàng Bồ, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Pho Lam Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter)
Ideal for a chicken pho that celebrates the whole bird…
You’ll find Pho Lam tucked away down a pretty little lane that’s defined by unkempt but totally beautiful hanging greenery, the kind that clotheslines you off your motorbike and you don’t even resent it. Pick yourself up and dust yourself down, as there’s pho here to soothe your soul…
We say “you’ll find” but it’s easy to miss the red sign here, the bold caps of PHO LAM NAM NGU set back from the road and obscured by the Hanoi’s ubiquitous corrugated iron awning. You might be better off looking for the popular French restaurant La Badiane, which sits opposite Pho Lam, and then turning right.
The chicken broth at Pho Lam operates on a rolling boil over coals which sit at the front of the shop, big pots of forever ticking over, a reminder of life’s cyclical nature, but also, as the aunty sweeps another bowl directly through this bubbling cauldron, of things being finite.
Here you’ll find reliably flavourful dark chicken, no stinginess as it’s packed high on its plinth of tightly wound noodles. Though the menu is prosaically delivered – a single white sign that declares ‘Pho Ga 50K’ – there’s actually a fair bit of customising to be done here if you’ve got your Vietnamese (or confident pointing) down.
On the counter that Pho Nam’s cooks diligently draw from, a big bowl of dark and white flesh and slices of yellow skin are all mixed together in equal quantities – and then you can add more of your preference, be that dark or white meat. It looks like a lot of skin going into your bowl, but when the fat from the skin melts into the bowl, you’re in for a truly delicious, unctuous broth. There are big bowls of msg, too, which you can ask to be omitted if you don’t value flavour.
Boiled organs are also all spread out on a tray – blood cake, eggs, chicken feet – which are available on request. However you play it, this is a hugely herbal bowl, with whole spring onions, garlic chives, delicate baby coriander and dill all piled high.
Though it feels – in our mind – better suited to beef pho, the quay at Nam Ngu is excellent, with plastic bags full of the stuff hanging from random coat hooks across the joint. The homemade hot sauce is some of the best you’ll find too, thick and deep rust in colour. A vinegar pot brimming with freshly sliced chillies and a few quarters of lime seal the deal.
Yes indeed, this is one of the best bowls of pho in Hanoi, beef, chicken or otherwise.
Address:7 P. Nam Ngư, Cửa Nam, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Image @ a 1 u c a r d
Pho Ga Tien, Ba Dinh District
Ideal for a breakfast institution with Michelin-approved broth…
Near picturesque Truc Bach Lake on Nguyen Truong To, Pho Ga Tien is a family-run operation that’s been perfecting the same chicken broth for nearly 40 years. For all the street food soup searchers, those four decades of familial heritage should be music to your ears – such a tagline usually leads to a pretty good bowl. This should appeal, too; the 65-year-old matriarch still makes the broth in the back kitchen, simmering free-range chicken bones with grilled shallots, ginger and shiitake mushrooms to create an exceptionally clean, golden soup that’s naturally sweet without cloying.
The current space – all large glass windows and warm yellow walls – opened in 2023, though the family had been selling from a sidewalk stall across the road for years before. From 6am to 1pm, all 60-plus seats are reliably filled, with motorbikes piled up outside. Another good sign, we think…
What marks this one out is a minor but impactful touch: the finely sliced makrut lime leaves scattered across each bowl, lending a distinct citrusy fragrance that’s unmistakable. You can choose your cut of chicken at the counter – dark or white, thigh or breast – and add hard-boiled eggs, offal or gizzards if you fancy. Regulars go for the dark thigh meat and a couple of slices of offal, which punctuate the broth with a hint of suave bitterness. For those gripped by the paradox of choice, we have more bad news; you’ll need to choose your noodle, too, from pho, bun or mien. Pho is the default (obvs.) and does the job perfectly, for us.
Owner Duc Khanh recognises regulars even during the breakfast chaos and is a charming presence. Prices start at 50,000 VND and haven’t changed in a decade, which has us romanticising that these guys aren’t in it for the money. A foolish notion, but when the steam is kicking up from our bowl and misting up our glasses, we do start feeling a little whimsical.
Address: 103 P. Nguyễn Trường Tộ, Quán Thánh, Ba Đình, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Pho Ga Cham, Ba Dinh District
Ideal for a golden, consomme-like pho broth…
Wow, this is one clean bowl of the good stuff, over at Pho Ga Cham, just off picturesque, cinematic Truc Bach Lake.
Pleasingly, here the bouncy yellow skin is left on the slices of breast, rather than being served separately or, heaven forbid, removed entirely and discarded, lending a gorgeous mouthfeel to every bite.
The option to add an egg yolk to the broth is one that many locals avail themselves of. Do the same, though don’t mix that yolk into the soup; that’s not the done thing and muddies the broth. Instead, allow it to set gently before eating the whole yolk in one.
Go further, and order the house special, which sees a clean, consomme-like golden pho broth with absolutely no herbs added, just a few bobbing slices of chicken breast and four or five egg yolks. One for the ‘gains’ crowd perhaps, but bloody delicious, too. The gratis iced tea here is excellent – bitter and refreshing.
Address:64-68 P. Yên Ninh, Quán Thánh, Ba Đình, Hà Nội, Vietnam
By Muk photo via Canva
Pho Ga Dac Biet, Hoan Kiem (Old Quarter)
Ideal for a rich, offal-spiked broth in the OQ…
Dac Biet means ‘the house special’ in Vietnamese, and at Pho Ga Dac Biet the chicken pho house special is very much the signature. It’s a bowl that’s absolutely heaving with dark thigh meat, organs, intestines, chicken feet, beaks…you name it. Please, don’t be put off; it is bloody fantastic, those offaly cuts lending a supreme richness and depth to the broth that is totally unique when compared to many of the other lighter chicken soups on our list.
Interestingly, you can order the scarcely seen pho tai ga here, which is a bowl of rare beef steak (cooked in the broth) and chicken, all bobbing about in a broth that combines the two stock bases. It works… kind of.
Address: 1 Hàng Điếu, Phố cổ Hà Nội, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, Vietnam
By minddream via Canva
*Pho is traditionally a breakfast dish and pretty much all of the shops on this list open from early until sold out. Many won’t stay open much past lunch, which ends at around 2pm. A couple of the spots on our list of the best pho in Hanoi do stay open late into the night, though it’s always a little unpredictable in Hanoi. Always check Google’s opening hours, but do not put 100% faith in that information.
Every bowl on our list clocks in at between 50’000 and 100’000 VND (between £1.50 and £3), with the exception of the duck versions, which are a little more. Regardless, all are absurdly good value for the skill, effort and heritage involved in making them.*
